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My radial arm saw's crank won't raise or lower the saw carriage. What's wrong with it, and how can I repair it?  I traded for an older Craftsman radial arm saw, model Everything works on the saw, except I cannot raise or lower the arm that holds the saw carriage. I think it’s supposed to loosen on the front top, but when I try to crank it up and down to adjust the blade cut, it won’t move. The handle for cranking it up and down will move about a quarter turn, only. I picked up an old craftsman radial arm saw not to long ago for free because it doesnt work. Its pretty heavy duty and the best I can figure its from the late 60s early 70s. When I plug it in the motor makes a noise almost like its locked but if I spin the blade around it will start to turn very slowly and then trip reset button on top of the saw. I can reset it and keep doing this but it never gets any better. I have tried to take it apart and clean it up so far Ive gotten the switch apart and it looks good now Im trying to figure out how to get into the motor. Im having trouble finding any k. form_title= Radial Arm Saw form_header= Build at home with a radial arm saw. What is your budget for a radial arm saw?*= _ [50] Have you used a radial arm saw before?*= () Yes () No Do you want a portable model?*= () Yes () No. What pulse is in the arm? Brachial and radial pulse is in the arm. What was the original name Ray DeWalt gave his invention the radial arm saw? Raymond DeWalt invented the first radial arm saw in   I also have a Craftsman and I found this manual online at Old Woodworkers www.- that is only one digit off (). I saw another reference that these are the exact same saws but that one model came with a stand, and the other model did not have the stand. Benjamin Carter Hett. With the unit powered: Does the motor hum or smoke when turned on? The two cases have baffled the FBI for decades, but Win has three things the FBI doesn't: a personal connection to the case; an ungodly fortune; and his troubleshooitng unique brand of justice. Join our VIP email list to receive money-saving-advice and special discounts. The fence is arguably the craftsman radial arm saw troubleshooting linux important part.

A Volt Ohm meter is also a good troubleshooting tool to determine if you have power and to where. Always disconnect the power unless you are checking to see if you have it! Also it would be a good ideal to go and get a couple of replacements from lowes, i found out that the magnet wears out over time and use. Hopefully this works for you as it did for me. To inspect or replace brushes, first unplug the saw. Remove the black plastic cap 2 on the side of the motor 1.

Use caution when removing the cap because it is springloaded. Pull out the brush and replace. Replace for the other side.

To reassemble, reverse the procedure. Press the metal part of the carbon brush in the hole where the carbon part fits. Tighten the cap snugly but do not overtighten. NOTE: To reinstall the same brushes, first make sure the brushes go back in the way they came out.

This will avoid a break-in period that reduces motor performance and increases wear. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group. Create a free Team What is Teams?

Learn more. Troubleshooting a circular saw that quit working Ask Question. Asked 8 years, 11 months ago. Active 2 years, 11 months ago. Viewed k times. I have a circular saw that quit working for no obvious reason. I cut a board and sat the saw down to get another board. When I tried to cut the next board, the saw wouldn't work.

Pull the trigger and nothing happens. Is a circular saw DIY repairable? If so, where would I start looking? Verified outlet has power. Removed blade and blew out all debris doesn't work with blade out either.

Jiggled the cable. Improve this question. Have you done any basic troubleshooting yet, like verifying the device is getting power maybe you tripped a breaker? Steven I updated my question with things I've tried. It's been this way awhile, so it's been tried on several different outlets. If jiggling the cable doesn't work, then we have one last resort before we need to call in an expert.

Did you try thumping it? Show 3 more comments. Active Oldest Votes. Is anything potentially jamming a mechanism? Are the air vents clogged? Is the case discolored or cracked at any spot?

On the power cord, is the insulation cracked at any point or is one or more strain-reliefs damaged or missing especially where the cord enters the tool? Are the plug contacts reasonably straight and untarnished? Is a fuse or reset button present? Is it blown or popped out? Was the tool used until it might have become too hot? Many tools have a safety, over-temperature shutoff; wait an hour for it to reset. If the unit came with a grounded plug, be sure that it's undamaged and that the power plug really is a properly wired grounded outlet.

Has an oily, greasy, or varnishy fluid dripped or oozed out of any part of of the unit? Grease could indicate bearing failure. Other oozings would point to catastrophic motor damage, or sometimes electronics failure or starting capacitor failure.

Does the the power switch feel normal? Usually a busted switch will feel "off" Pardon the pun. If you are comfortable with an ohmmeter, you can use it to do basic checks on the cord and switch. Note that it is possible for a circuit to look okay with the meter and still be bad under load -- or for control electronics to be bad.

With the unit powered: Does the motor hum or smoke when turned on? Of course, Immediately switch it back off if it does this. Does a circuit breaker trip? Do you feel an electric shock? Does the motor arc excessively? Any unusual noises? Humming, or squealing? If the visual inspection is failed, it should be obvious what to do.

For a damaged cord, replace it. Do not attempt to repair it. If the case is plastic and is discolored anywhere, it has likely degraded to the point that the tool is either unsafe or it's just not worth repairing.

Some uniform case discoloration due to age and UV exposure can be okay -- as long as the case is not also cracked or brittle. It's more time efficient, but is it more dangerous? Is it better on the motor? All it in all, is there a preferred method of working with stationary power tools such as table saws, jointers, router tables, drill presses, etc. Generally, that is the right thing to do.

Obviously you wouldn't let a power tool run all day when you don't need it, or even walk away and let it run unattended. But keeping it running in between making several cuts in a couple of work pieces or drilling several holes is absolutely fine I am almost inclined to say "best practice". For the tool as well for work efficiency, it is a huge deal better to keep the tool running for reasonable amounts of time. Please refer to the Wikipedia Inrush Current article for an explanation why switching a tool on is stressful to its electric components.

While it is possible to somewhat mitigate the effect, there is no way to eliminate it alltogether, it's just the way physics work. The prank described in the second half of Bastard Operator From Hell, episode 7 , is based on that very effect: " Many modern tools have a rapid stop functionality for operational safety, which is no more than a motor brake that brings the blade to a halt within a second or two so basically switching off may be seen as switching "on" in some way as the tool is going from running at "idle" load into "full yield" reverse.

On the other hand, having dust collection run for longer than absolutely necessary is surely rather an advantage than a disadvantage. It'll pick up some extra dust which you're not going to inhale. No harm done. There is of course the concern of having a power tool run being dangerous by definition. Running it longer means more exposure to danger.

Opinions will inevitably differ on this point, bit my stance is that if you cannot assure safe operation of a power tool for prolonged time, you should better not use it at all.

Power tools are dangerous, maiming and possibly lethal things, treating them with appropriate respect and safety measures as to exclude the possibility of an injury is a mandatory precondition. In that case, it doesn't matter if the saw is running for a minute longer.

On the other hand, if you can't assert that, stay away from them. I think as long as any guards are in place and normal safety procedures are followed as mindfully as they should always be followed there's little increased danger.

That's not to say there's none, and individual mileage as always will vary. I think it can be, although it depends on the tool. And the key factor may be just how long it's left running. Industrial-level tools have very long 'duty cycles', where there may be an expectation that they have to have the motor running continually for an hour or longer at times.

Consumer tools are not built as robustly and the potential for overheating when run for longer periods is higher, particularly in hot weather temperature in the shop is definitely a factor.

Also the type of tool I'm sure must matter, table saws and especially jointers or thicknesses are obviously intended for working for longer periods compared to say a typical drilling operation. But start-and-stop operation I presume is considered normal for drill presses so drilling, stopping and drilling again should be perfectly fine.

And certainly you shouldn't be adjusting a workpiece underneath a spinning bit, that just strikes me as bad practice generally.

Note: this is not to say that a drill is put at risk if run continually for long periods, many people use their drills for drum sanding, buffing, with wire wheels, even for turning operations, without apparent harm to the motors. But the quality of the tool probably matters a lot here. With routers, they spin very fast and the motor and other internals are being stressed as a result so within reason I would want to stop the tool and let it cool periodically even if you might want to run piece after piece past the bit for extended periods, e.

This may be unduly cautious but I would feel more comfortable doing it this way myself with a consumer-level router. From a safety perspective, I turn off the band saw and table saw between cuts. Most other tools I am fine to leave running. Especially drill press, sanders, scroll saw, and other smaller tools.

I purchased a Craftsman Radial Arm Saw in I turn it on to make a cut, turn it off, adjust for the next cut and turn the saw on. I just replaced a ' fence in my back yard and had to cut inches off the bottom of each 6" wide board. I cut them 3 at a time then turned off the saw stacked up three more and cut them. After over 41 years of using the saw like this it still works like new.

Electric motors manufactured since the 90's are built to be turned on and off in this manner. The main reason your motor will fail is because of insulation and other parts breaking down over time. I say use the off switch and same the fingers. Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group. Create a free Team What is Teams?

Learn more. Is it better to let the tool run or stop in-between cuts?

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