%!$ Easy Diy Woodworking Bench Plans For You #!@

To pre- planes excel at and to get you Sti. A look at the plane blade or iron on a disassembled plane. This works not only because water stones cut quickly, but also because If the contour is off. Ji Top view out of square, or putting a wind in it, and then C:;:d zff restoring squareness again. For example, per- a wood plane pdf a gap was dis- cove.

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Locate a dry- diamet. The washer eliminates th. If the drill press sports a guilllock, clamp the chip breaker in position with the drill bit.

Clamp a board right up against the long edge of tIle chip bTeaker. This prevents the crop breaker am spinning during drilling, especially when the drill bit exits the stock Please note that the correct way to driJl the A chip-breaker tapping jig. Next, mount tlle jig in a vise. Chuck the tap into a handle and insert it through the jig bole so that the point protrudes on the side with the stop.

Position the chip breaker on the jig as shovtn in Shaping the J nife Edge All the '''lark can be done with a sharp mill-bastard file, but a quicker way is with a stationary belt or disc sander. Switch to medium paper to ISO-grit. Grind the bevel freehand to a smooth arc, htinging the end to Drilling a hole in a chip breaker for the cap screw. Final Fitting True the underside of the tip of the chip breaker, cfafting a tight fit between it and the plane iron.

The best type is resin-bonded, cloUl-backed aluminum oxide such as thal used for sanding belts. Butl the tip of the chip breaker up to the clamping board and rest the heel directly on the table.

This The chip-breaker tapping jig in use, arrangement slightly undercuts the chjp breaker, ensuring that the tip contacts the iron when assem- bled instead of some point slighUy behind the tip. Look at what has been sanded and see if that'S sufficient to cause a shaving jam, A bullnose is a blunt roundover rather than a gr8dual1y arcing one.

Development of a slight burr on the bottom surface indicates the formation of a k. If you have a The chip breaker mounted on the holder. Properly and improperly undercut chip breakers. If not, try pressure on the tip so that no material is removed a few' more unidirectional strokes and check again. Repeat until a bare! Brush away the accumulated grit every plane iron. Return to the truing process. Check after each stroke until flatness is mating plane iron.

The plane iron mu. If you see daylight at A bun will have formed at the tip on the rounded the corners, the chip breakP. Stroke this off on. Keep in mind when stroking the slightest hollow in the center, without toucb. This is easily done using a mill bastard file degree angle, or you will produce a small dam right lhat is narrower than the chip breaker.

Lay the me at the tip capable of catchi. The chip on a table and the chip breaker on the Hie, tip to tip. Combination square. These tools i. The procedures lIsed to put them in working order are easy and make a world of difference when it comes to doing careful I accurate , ark. The material in Lhis chapter also includes pointers on how to use these tools properly. The shavings made with wooclen planes on a workada r basis typically range from.

Machinist-grade tools from reputable fundamental too. Inexpensive hardware-store-variety or maner straightedges. I find combination squares He -market squares usually need work. Beyond their uscfulnes gradations on the ruler of a cheap square are usu- for all the above tasks, combination squares can ally embossed, deforming the edge and interfering also be used to gauge depths and, ' hen the sliding with accurate readings.

Smooth and straighten the beam is used as a depth stop for the ruler, can make edge as follows: Clamp a strip of lSD-grit resin-bond repeated layouts or mea 'urcments.

They also mea- sandpaper, at least twice the length of the blade, to nrc and lay aLIt degree angles. Grasp the ruler in the center, keep light pressure Truing the edge of CI combination square's ruler. Compare tbe ruler to the smooth and true with long, deliberate strokes. Nevel' line. If they arc parallel, then aU is well if they am sand back and forth.

Make one stroke, examine the not, an adjustment is necessary. Working stroke by stroke, you'll Th make an adjustment, remove the ruler and anive expeditiously at your goal. Sand back. Tivo forth with abandon and the goal may never be raised bars on the bottom of the slot su ppOIt the mler; achieved.

Every three or four strokes, clean the lowering one in relation to the other angles the ruler sandpaper with a stiff brush, removing all dehris. Effect the i:. Go slowly. One stroke can make a signifi- sandpa per; if it runs off tl1e encl, it will develop a cant change. Keep the bars flat, or dipped toward the hollow in the edge. Strive to maintain or create center of the handle, so that when the ruler is flatness by concentrating pressure in the center of secured it will contact the outer edge of bar.

If there the ruler; otherwise, the tendency is to remove more are no bars, it may be possible to make Clc1justments material from the ends, creating a hump in the middle. Next, scrutinize the beam of the square. Lumps face or edge usually a face of the board that is flat or humps ruin the reHabihty of the measurements.

Inaccuracies can be sanded away in the manner Check t. The reference face is the foundation of the mea- Assemble the square, tighten down the blade, and surements; problems here inevitably lead to a cas- check for squareness as follows: Joint the edge of a cade of problems elsewhere.

Rulers or straightedges 12 length, draw a line square to the edge "with a very inches or longer arc often curved to some extent sharp, hard pencil.

Rotate the handle so that the along the length of thei. Tipping the blade of a square when gouging a sur- For the plane you will make, a small metal block face may give a false reading if the blade is ot all curved. The plane must be tuned for accurate performance. There are many styles and makes of block plane, most of whicb are serviceable once some key items have been attended lO.

The fust task is to properly "tension" the plane. Thnsion is the amount of pressure used to lock the blade in place. Taking a reoding with a square. The beam of the be difficult to adjust, but the body may distort and square is flat on tile reference surface.

In nearly all cases, pressure is provided by a perpendicular, rendering a false reading Place screw. Better planes use a screw in conjunction the face of the beam Hrmly against the reference vvith a cam, which captures the blade Once urface, with th blade not quite touching the sur- the screw is properly set, it need never be read- ace being gauged; [hen bring the blade into light contact. Avoid tile natural tendency to allow the Block plane. The futl length of the beam of the square must remain in finn contact with the reference face.

Sight against a bright light source. A tapering band of light between the blade and target surface indi- ciltes that they are out of square Block plane with cap iron removed. Aninch straightedge is very useful for general woodworking and for checking the bottoms of longer wooden planes for flatness. Precision- ground flat stock , 2 inches '..

Th release the blade, just loosen the cam. It often takes two or three tries to adjust the blade perfectly; to release and clamp the blade , A block plane disassembled and the adjustable throat each time the setling is altered 'would remove all plate removed.

Before proceeding, note if the plane has an adjustable throat opening. This is a mov- First lubricate all moving parts. Continue incremental tightening debris. Then reassemble the thumbscrew and plate. The proper Check the condition of the bottom along its width amount of tension has been reached when the and length with a straightedge Do thi. The plane will frequently be hollowed along its while allowing for easy and accurate adjustments. The straightedge I'''ill contact the ends, but Consistency is important: when the feel of adjust- there ,vill be a discernible gap at the center.

A hump ing the plane remains constant, it's easier to per- JUSt behind the throat opening is also a common form that task quickly and confidently. The result is an all-or The straightedges used on these two block planes indicate that the bottoms are curved. Good E rd,. Jroat-openlilg contact , A straightedge indicates two acceptable conditions for a plane bottom, nothing sit11ation: either no shaving or an unaccept- sanding a wind il1 o the plane bottom. Subtle ably thick one, Accurate planing is not possible.

Center the plane with are another common finding, They will not prevent the center of your body, concentrate the pressure the plane from taking a fine shaving, but the inden- on the cent. It can either br. Brush off the sanding deblis after each at the front edge of the plane, the area imrncdi- stro'ke, After two strokes, observe the bottom of the ately in front of the throat opening, and at the rear plane There should be a readily apparent scratch of the plane The latter configuration is pattern from the sanding that is helpful in gauging arguably more favorahle, in that friction while plal'- yo r progre S , but do not reiy on this alone; ing is reduced since the plane bottom bas less con- also use your straightedge, checking the length and tact area.

Flatness across the width of the plane is width of the pane, You, re done when the bottom also crucial. I the plane is humped in the cente!

Gripping the plane for flattening the bottom, the blade will have more exposure at the corners increasing the likelihood of digs. A hollow down the center exposes more of the blade at the center, creating difficullies when planing narrow surfaces as in edge-joining.

F1attcning the Bottom jf the plane bottom needs attention, the inaccura- cies can be carefully sanded out. Clarnp a two-foot-long strip of rhree- to six-inch-wide grit resin-bond sand- paper to the bed of a flat machine table check it for flatness! Again, unidirectional strokes are the key to success, Be sure the plane is properly ten- sioned with the blade in place bllt retracted.

Sanding tIle bottom of the plane reveals its condition. Scratch p8tternB e: A hump behind the throat opening. Stop when the center hump has been described above. One problem lhat requires special attention when Now, retum to lengthwise sanding. A crisscross scratch pattern will or length The tendency ig to rock on that arc with appear on the bottom, visible on the endf; at first, each f;troke, making it very difficult to flatten out and kngthening toward the center 'iv'ith each unless you change your approach.

The idea is to stroke. Continue until lengthwise scratches go from sand out U1e hump or high spot without touching end to end. If the arc is scratches are stiU evident in the center.

Turn length of sandpaper that is about 1h inch narrower the plane sideways to the sandpaper and take one or than the 'Vvidth of the plane. Sand lengthwise down two strokes, sanding the middle. Sand the center of the spot is. You must guard against forming a widthwise plane, where the high spot is, without touching the arc in the bottom while doing tIllS.

Be highly criUcal of your efforts. If a bump or gap is suspected where it should not be, get a brighter light and be sure. Unless the bottom is properly flattened, frustration 'Nill be experienced when planing.

End and side views of planes showing arc and where ability to properly adjust it in the plane. Work the faces. The tool will slide marc easily and bring the blade forward until the edge JUSt peeks lea e a better finish if the bottom is po ished. TIl e out beyond the bottom. Now, try cutting a shaving. Finish up with the it just begins to slice the flnest shaving. Try the water stones to polish the surfaces. If the am pokeshave may be gently buffed.

Tighten the cap screw to lock the adjustments in place. To iemOVe the blade for resharpening, sim- pl. Start off with very fine shavings. As you gain Number spokeshaves. The spoke- Chattering is a common difficulty with spoke- have may he pushed or pulled, but it is important shaves. This arises from combining too heavy a cut to focus your energy as lOw on the tool as possible with a dull blad and exerting force too high on U1e I to prevent chatter tool.

See Chapter 3 for information on sharpen- ing. Here is how to properly adjust the depth of cut: First, make sure that the cap iron is gripping the blade correctly. The small screw that passe through the blade acts as a pivot. Let's call it the "pivot screw.

The two knur cd screws The parts on a No. Sharpening need non. What a person deems "sharp" may not be not be onerous, nor is it particularly difficult. This extends to other basic cut- see improvement with every effort tillg tools as well: chisel, spokeshaves, and knives. A look at the plane blade or iron on a disassembled plane.

The only Proper orientation ofthe grimier is critical [or good remedy is to retemper the blade or carefully grind results. All too often grinders are set up backed back beyond all the discolored metal. A slower- against a wall or other obstruction, limiting your speed grinder diminishes tlle risk of overheating stance to directly in front of the wheel s.

In fact, the blade, but care still must be taken. Situate the grinder with thal in mind. Your cranked grinder The battered antique type of body's front and centerline should be aligned with, grinder found frequently at flea TUarkets is often or even slightly behind, the axis of wheel rotation. Unfortunately, I know of no source that from this vantage the edge of the blade in rela- cunently sells new, good-qualilY hand-cranked tionship to the face of the wheel can be Oleen pre- grinders.

Cisely-that is, it can be detennined whether it L flat on the wheel or slightly angled one way or the other. You must rely on secondary cluGs such as the rela- tionship of the blade to the lool reSl or the edge of the wheel, neither of which is reliable. Even if the cutting edge is only slightly angled off the face of the wheel.

Wheel and Thol Rest Just as important as the choice of grinder are the wheel and tool rest it is titted with. The wheel should be composed of "friable-bond" aluminum oxide.

The result , A good-quality hand-cranked grinder mounted on a is cooler and faster grinding. The coarser the grit board for setup in J vise at a metalworking area. The di. Avoid the gray Carborundum wheels found raLel! They glaze quickly, cut slowly, to master. Excellent control, simplicity I relative and heat up fast. Presharpening Procedures' Preponng the Gr l07der ,'-Ioning Stones and WorkstatIon 0 45 Th01 Rest lowed or domed, there will be considerable difficul- ty gJinding a proper edge on the iron because only A wiele, stable tool rest that adjusts easily can be the the corners or a s na11 portion of thp wheel will difference between smooth, accurate results or a make contact.

Accuracy is essential. The stock tool rest found x 3-inch-Iong dressing stick of Carborundum among on most grinders fails all tbe above criteria The the several options available, Its relatively broad. Turn on the grinder, support the dresser stick with Preparing the Grinding Wheel the tool rest, and with small side-to-side motions As with all grinding operations, use eye protection.

Both the wl1e J and the dresser abrade fau-- :ng wheel. All of the following operations produce ly rapidly, WIllie straightening the face, also try to clouds of irritating dust, 1b work well, the circum- keep the end of the dresser stic] flat and straight crence of the whee] surface let's call it the "face" too it will round if you pivot 't wbile Llsing it. Check the width at a standsti If the face is hol- fast as can be cOlnfortably maintained, remember- , etermine the height of the tool 3finch-thick pieces, each D rest SO tt,al [he blade Wlil con- tact the grindIng whee!

ConSider the way the tool rest wi! Back view of the tool rest. The base is mortised inch carriage bolt passes through across Its Width in the center to the block Sll pport1ng the ta Ie. Sandpaper the table is captured sec rely. Side view of Q shop-made tool glued t the bottom prevents rhe The block is formed from a pair of rest. Get IYm grits: and 8, in King nomen- wheel will remove glazing.

The sUlface of an glaze over quickly, Glazed wheels result in slov,rer S,OOO-grit stone blackens from carbon deposits, which grinding and faster heat buildup. Despite the friable can slow dOW11 the sharpening. A "nagura. The sparks scratches left by even a grit wheel.

The 8, emitted wrap all the way around the wheel as you grit stone l'cmOVes scratches left by the SOO-grit grind. As the wheel glazes, the biting slowly stone, producing a minored surface in mOments.

I changes into a skating feel and the stream of sparks fInd no need for i. Further evidence is minute. It and can even be used to an advantage, as described is important to correct the situation.

A dressing below. You should get years of use from the stones. A diamond dressing stick available from What of some alternatives?

Ceramic stones are page Also, if a ceramic stone is not per- fectly flat something that is often desirable , there Honing Stones is nothing that can be done about it. Check its flat- In my lexicon, "honing" is sharpening a blade by ness br:fore buying one, Diamond stones cut fast, hand, progressing with graded abrasives that Tange but they too are unavailable ill fine enough grit to from coarse to fine until the blade is razor-sharp.

My preference for honing is synthetic Japanese Check these too for flatness, before buying. Coarse water stones. Among the various hrands I have remaining flat through an intense session of uSG- tried, King is my favorite, combining quick cutting that is, if they start out flat. There an": also natural, with good wear resistance and an extremely fme- quarried water stones, but they do not seem to be a grit stone that yields a superb level of sharpness.

The plat- allows For a controlled eu. The lip registers tile dressln stick, The block is off the back of the gnnder tool rest to produce the slraigtlt cur across lhe wheel Mount the jig on the tool rest, Adjust the angle of the tool rest so that the resslng Back edge 0" 7; reet stick is ali ned The entire circumfer- pOSItion, apwring the ence should appear freshly cut, If tape shims. Loosen the there are still lew spots as yet clamp holding the dresser, untouched, shim rhe tool rest with bring the dresser Into light tape and reposition the dresser into contact with rhe wheel.

Continue in like effect a cut Into the wheel Fas ion until the wheel is complete- equal to that same thick- ly trued, Once done. The dressing stick in the truing jig is ext, start the grinder unless it is removed from tt1e aligned with the radius of the grinding wheel.

Suspend the tub by its rim, fitting the tub tightly into the countertop so that it will not jiggle. The bottom of the cradle registers on the rim of the tub. I've used the cradle shown in for years. Finally, put up a hook Lo hang a disl1 towel for 'wiping the iron 3ncl fingers clean. A honing workstation. It consists of 0 wall-mounted countertop. It will not be harmed and ,vill made of plywood , squirt bottle.

If sharpening is an occasional thing, let comfort vl'hile working and contains the slurry that the stone dry out between uses-it is a little mor : water stones develop in use A section of CO lInter- convenient to check and flatten a completely dry top mounted to the wall makes a good surface.

Tb stone. A shoulder-width apart, arms relaxed at the sides, squirt of water and they are ready fingers ou tstretched. The work surt:1ce should accommodate a Check the stones for flatness across their length lidded tub for soakiJlg the coarse water stone.

Blot them dry first jf cradle for t]le stones, Their aggressive cutting they arc wet. Observe their middles and edges. Stones can be flattened by dry- or wet- sanding in conjunction with a true reference surface. A stone crodle that occommo- dotes two differel1l-sized stones.

Pres,' orpening Procedures' Preparing the Cor de If the 8. One piece has a square much diFFerent in length. Depending lIpon the shape of the rim. A food tray under the glass catches any drips.

You paper. Push right through have not been the center of the stone and stroke the stone the tOllchell yet. Con- length of the sandpaper, stopping when the leading tinue just until the edge reaches tl1e end of the paper. Pick the stone up moment the entire and start over again at the start of the paper.

A balanced grip for flatten- Each stroke should be very deliberate and uni- becomes a. Check again with a straightedge to he sure the 8,OOO-grit stone is likely to be dry before you start stone is flat.

Next, accuracy 'Will not be achieved. Chances are good, in check it for flatness, Set up the inch square of fact, thar a hump and!

Laya piece of lOO-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper, abrasive Humps are troublesome to correct because of the side up, on the glass The water gently adheres the tendency to continually rock on the hump 'while sandpaper to the glass.

Flood the paper with water. If a hump is detected on the circles, utiliZing the entire sheet of paper and apply- stone, do this: Create a very slight dip by sanding ing as much force as can be comfortably and com- on a piece of sandpaper that is narrower than tlJe pletely controlled. Blot the stone dry every so often stone, lfthe stone is humped widthWise, cut a piece and scrutinjze the stone.

If the stone is humped length- ll-cat humps in the same manner as described for wise, the paper should be one inch shorter than the dry-sa nding, using wet-or-dry sandpaper. Simply rubbing the faces of the and 8,aOO-grit stones put, you are sanding where the reading from the against each other. Return to the full-sized sandpaper grit stone afterwards, to remove particles of grit and, with a few strokes, sand just until the dip is hum its surface.

The stones are now ready for use, The sondpaper is appropriately sized to facilitate this. Wet-sanding is used ",,-hen the stones are wet. The worst tempta- The following discussion is geared to plane irons, tion is tipping t. The Back Side Do not underestimate the importance of preparing the back of t11e irOll. It plays a significant part in determining the ultimate sharpness of the blade and how consistently it sharpens.

Mistakes here can be costly in terms of time spent making cor- rections. Pay close attention and work carefully. The first task is twofold: to flatten the back and Tipping the blade lip while flattening the back polis11 it to a mirror shine and '.

YOli must avoid this. Generally, when grinding the beveled side of the iron, or honing it ,vith an BOO-grit stone, a small Coarse grind marks on the back of a plane iron burr develops on the back side. The flattening process eliminates the coarse grind marks. Polishing with successively fl11cr stones leads to a mirror finish, When the back is polished to the same high degree as the beveled side, the edge will be its sharpest, leaYing a slick, smooth surface on whatever is planed. With a small straightedge, check the back of the blade for flatness across its Width, as near to the cutting edge as possible.

The polished back of a plane iron. Coarse grind marks on the back of a blade translote to nicks in the Beveled side edge when seen magnified, Beck Slde Japanese blades are purposely made that way for this very reason. Also check for flatness along the length of the blade. This is the amount that will overlap the stone when the back side is honed. Pay closest attention right at the cutting edge.

If you notice the back rolling away from the straightedge right there, the wedge angle will be too wiele and you will not be able to remove a burr without tipping the blade when honing the back; this means some ex. Iron and flattening stick in position on stone. The stick allows more pressure to be exerted on the iron, speeding the progress, and helps you keep the iron flat on the stone.

Dip the stick in water and grip the plane iron and stick together as shown in When you have the proficiency. The flatness and smoothness of the planed stick grips the plane iron even better. Overlap half the width of the stone with the plane iron to equalize wear on the stone and give the iron enough support while honing, to avoid tipping it back to front.

The goal is Checking the back of the iron for flatness lengthwise with a small straightedge. S11arpening Thchnique Select the iron to sharpen. Make sure the stones are flat and well secured to the work surface. A stone with any dips or bumps will transfer inac- curacies to the back of the iron. Nicely round all the sharp edges. The flattening stick allows energy to be focused on the middle of the iron, eliminaring the natural tendency to inadvertently hone more material from the outer edges of the iron creating Gripping the iron and flattening stick.

If the center was humped, then it should show signs of wear without the corners' being touched. An arc in. Check the honed area, against the straightedge. Make sure the stone is sopping wet and keep Recheck the stone for f1atness. For instance, if the water on the surface with an occasional squirt from iron is humped widthwise, but the stone has an the water bottle.

Then glide over produced across the iron. If the technique is faulty [he center and concentrate your efforts on the back and yOLl are rocking the plane iron widthwise or t ird of the stone for six cycles. As you gain confidence i. However, you must know haps for a check. And beware of false assumptions. Then usc Look at the back of the iron under bright light and the other face of the s one in the same fashion.

Need, work Plane-iron backs that need more flattening. The lack of polish at their cutting edges indicates problems. A: Plane iron with low corners.

Be sure the stone is flat before proceeding. Remove the scratches left: by the dia- mond stone with the grit stone. Move to the 8,OOO-grit stonc. This is contrary to Blade with two be'leis the doctrine that one must progress slowly through intermediate grits hefore arriving at the finishing stone, but experience 11a5 taught me that the 8, grit stone cuts quickly enough to bypass this.

If it takes considerable time to polish off the scratches from the BOO-grit stone, by all means use an inter- Blade bevel and angle terminology. The two blades mediate stone to speed the progress-a 1,grit shown are the same thickness, Typically.

Prepare the stone with a pared with one bevel and thin blades are prepared with two. Scratch several witb the cutting edge of the blade.

The cutting grooves on the bottom of the nagura with the sharp edge is simply a wedge of steel, but the angle of corner of a Ale Lang to help it glide over the stone that weclge, precisely where the clltting occurs, is of easier. Use the same honing technique as with the crucial importance. If the wedge angle is made too grit stone.

Rewet lhe stone and clean it with the narrow, the cutting edge is '''leak, nicking and nagura as the stOne dries and blackens wid1 use. The dulling easily, but as long as it remains sharp it will flattened area of the blade should take on a unilbrm slice wood effortlessly.

If the wedge angle is too mirror polish within moments-how soon is deter- wide, then the cutting edge cannot easily enter the mined by how much pressure is applied while hon- wood to slice off a shaving-instead it tends to skit- ing. Sometimes the bright polish will reveal scratches ter and scrape across the surface. But the cutting that are coarser than those of the SOO-grit stone or edge is more durable-that is, it better resists dulling slight defects in flatness that have not been noticed.

This is a serviceable angle for all Now that the flattening and polishing have con- woods. For anything but the 8,OOO-grit stone. That would only example, a softwood like clear yellow pine planes scratch the fmely polished surface and lengthen the beautifully with a wedge angle a couple of degrees sharpening process.

A little experimenta- The Beveled Side tion may pay off with good results. The intersection of t. The: angle benl'een the surfaces directly influ- commonly describe the angles forming the Gutting ences the working chaTacteristics of the edge. One or the other is used synonymously with The "wedge angle" is the angle continuous tbe wedge angle. Choosing properly ness of the blade. Such a blade is prepared increases sharpening efficiency and ""ill get you planing again more quickly.

In general, think of the with two bevels: the primary or macrobevel, grinder for quick metal removal and precise setting formed with the grinder; and the secondary or of bevel angles. Hone when little metal needs to be microbevel, honed right at the tip.

For a thick iron , the whetl1er it is straight or slightly arced. Grinding and wedge angle is the same as the primary bevel. The key to this approach is to com- Grinding'Thchniques bine the speed of water stones with the flexibility of freehand honing as opposed to using horling First and foremost, grinding establishes and main- jigs or guides. The thicker the blade, the wider the bevel at a Whenever the wedge angle has wandered a few given angle. Thick irons have a bevel wide enough degrees away from 30 degrees, grinding is the first to easily balance upon, making freehand honing step to reestablishing the mark.

Grinding quickly simple to master with consistent results. The bevel obliterates nicks and reestablishes the edge of an on a thin iron is too narrmv for that Thin over J dulled blade. Honing can also be used to do irons require a modified approach that is a little this. The choice between grinding and honing in trickier to master, though still quite effective. Wooden planes will accommodate specialized Whichever achieves the goal more quickly should irons that are even thicker than "thick" replace- be the method of choice.

A major Grinding with the circumference of a wheel plus of making your own planes is capturing the creates a correspor1dulg arc in the bevel on the sharpening advantage that the thickest irons offer.

Freehand honing is difficult while attempting to rest on a thin bevel. A wide bevel offers more support and eases The arc of a grinding wheel imparts the some arc on the task. Grinding is the best way to restore that angle Repeated honings Hatten out the hollow grind, to 90 degrees. The primary angle of a thin iron should be 25 degrees, and the secondary angle ghould be 30 degrees A thick iron should only have a pri- mary angle of 30 degrees.

Tile secondary bevel is a little trickier because generally it is quite small. Honing a hollow-ground blade on a stone with the the tip of the blade tucked right into the vertex of bevel resting on its toe and heel, the beam and base of the protractor, you should be Thin iron with ground primary bevel and honed pol- ished secondary bevel, Polished flats.

It is time to regrind. Grinding should help create the final shape, or very close to the final shape, of the cutting edge. Grind to restore a wavy or hollowed cutting edge to its proper shape. Finally, if the angle formed by the cutting edge and a side of the blade is way off of 90 degrees, there may not be sufficient lateral adjust- , Gauging tile primary bevel with 0 protractor.

This makes it difficult to get a precise protractor reading. More important- X , Each time the iron is rehoned, there is a natural tendency to tilt the hlade higher and higller, producing a domed or rounded bevel. Here's a trick to assess tile flatness of the bevel A flat bevel reflects light uniformly.

You will see a forming the wedge angle: Position yourself with a reflection with the blade at a specific angle. A domed bevel light sourCe above and behind you. If the bevel is scatters the reflection. It can be seen over a range of flat, the reflection is uniform and will reflect light angles. If the bevel is domed, the refJection scatters steeper the wedge angle. A bright light, white wall, or a piece of white mat board on the far side of the wbeel grea tly facilitates visibility and, tI1US, accuracy.

A domed secondary bevel unacceptably increases Checking the angle of the tool rest. Observe how the the wedge angle. Sight again all the contact the bevel in the middle, or along its entirety, The point of 'wheel and bevel. If the acUustment looks primary bevel will be widened if the wheel contacts good, you are set for a trial grind.

Use the blade rest described in this text. Pinch hand without straining. Roughly set the proper the blade snugly to the platform with your fingers angle of the platform.

Make a trial cut with the grinder by simply touch- ing me bp. Look at the bevel and see if the fresh grind mark is in the A right place. Continue adjusting the platfonn and making test grillds until you are satisfied. Alter the B current angle by a degree or so each time, until yuu close in on the or degree mark.

With Some experimentation, the pprformance of different blades can be optimized this way. Determining Straightness and Arc in the Cutting Edge An acceptable straight contour for the cutting edge is fairly asy to verify and is described in the fol- lowing s ,ction. When sighted with a sb'aightedge, he range may vary from no uiscernible light- filled gaps along tlle edge to very slight gaps.

TIle proper degree of arc, however, is more nebulous, and the amount of arc needed is related point "'There the finger can longer be comforta ly to the: type of surface desired. If a surface that feels positioned thMC, it is time to cool the bladc. If the flat and smooth is desired, the arc will be minimal. Likewise, a hol- For a smooth motion and clean grinding results, lowed contour yields the same effect.

Experimentation and practicc The thumb and middle finger should glide over the "'ill move you toward your goal. Remember, the rotation of t1,c wheel down. For a down. Only the lightest downward pressure is flat surface, free of discernible scalloping, those needed.

Clearly, the arc must be very small to a hieve this, but it rollS be present or the corners of the blade iron will dig into the wood. Assessing the Contour of the Cutting Edge 'lake a small hardwood straightedge to check the condition of the edge. The fingers should be slouched over and relaxed. The union of the grinding, but until then a direct visual cue is a two should be seamless if the cutting edge is great boon.

AJternatively, if the blade is properly arced it will rock ever so slightly on a hump in the center of the blade.

The light should reveal a point of con- tact in the center with gradually wider light-filled gaps tmvard the corners. If the blade is hollowed, there wiU be contact POilU':; at the corners and a light-filled gap in the center. The correct sight line reveals an angled shadow line between the wheel and the cutting edge evident below the index finger if the bevel is not lIat on the wheel.

Before you begin grinding, you should know when to stop. This is when the bevel is at the cor- rect angle, the edge contoured properly, and a very slight burr has been raised at the cutting edge from Assessing the contour of the Iron's cutting edge with corner to corner on the back of the iron.

Furthermore, the grinding should obliterate any previous traces of honing from heel to toe of Lbe Grinding the Blade bevel. The presence of the burr is very important; The critical skill in grinding is maintaining the bevel it indicates that the bevel and back meet at a crisp of the iron flat on the wheel while sliding the iron line and are ready for honing.

Until the burr arises, from side to side. If the blade pivots while you are a rounded or dulled condition still exists at the grinding, only a corner of the ,,,heel contacts the cutting edge Is the objective a straight or It is extremely helpful if you can cleady see the arced cutting edge? Is the edge already properly relationship betlveen the cutting edge and the contoured or doe:; it need reshaping?

Is the 'wedge wheel while grinding. Position your body in line angle correct? Does the angle of U1e cutting edge with the axis of the wheel, off to the side of the relative to the side of the blade need adjustment? From there, it is possihle to sight dmvn Has the blade been honed previously or is it new? If tl1e blade pivots the primary bevel angle is oif or the Gutting edge is away from the 'wheel slightly as you are grinding, blunt.

In the case of a thick iron, is there a hollow a small, but readily visible, angled shadow line grind present? The answers to these questions occurs, providing instant feedback to make an guide your intent as you grind. A light touch gripping the iron, com- Turn on the grinder and gently bring the bevel to bined 'with some.

Cool the blade in a can of cold each corner before passing through the center. If there is mOTe maintaining full contact between the bevel and honed area remaining at he heel than at the tip, the wheel.

You may wish to ner to corner, Every 10 seconds or so turn the iron slightly adjust tIle tool-rest angle to correct this. As you come to the finis11, the honed area at the If the edge contour is correct to begin with tip should completely disappear at once, and the straight or arced and the blade has been previous- burr simultaneously develop al1 across the back ly honed, the shiny honed area at the cutting edge side of the edge.

Carefully diagnose the extent of offers a road map to guide your grinding progress. A fingemail even band parallel to the cutting edge.

It is likely, though, that the band will taper, or be wider in some spots tban others With the bevel still kept flat on the wheel, and while you are still moving the iron from side to side, linger on the areas that need more grinding and avoid or quickly pass over the areas that arc ovcrground. When the honed band at the cutting edge has been evened out, resume cor- ner-to-earner grinding again.

There may be a tendency to overgrind the center of the bevel. This is because 'when you are grinding from side to sidc, the center is ground twice for each time one comer is hit. Before long, prop- until it has grown relatively large. Check all along edy grinding an iron will take just a moment. If it is not present the entire way across, continue grinding, but avoid the spots Honing Thchnique where tbe burr has developed already. If the edge is hollowed in the center, linger ditioned quickly with the stones; and to obliterate at the outer edges 'while grinding.

If the edge is minor nicks. Honing also tailors the shape of the overly arced, then linger in the center Tf the edge edge, be it perfectly straight or slightly arced. I,m get.

This is simply not or right and you wish to restore it to square. With a clear grasp of the fundamentals and a simply spend more time grinding whichever side is knowledge of what to look for, honing typically high in contact with the square when taking a requires 30 to 90 seconds. Longer sessions are reading. Do not entirely neglect the low side. Excessive honing erodes Feather the strokes there occasionally. Feathering the hollow grind of a thick iron and alters the consists of grinding on the "high" side and then wedge sllg1e of a thin iron.

Literally, then, it's back moving slightly toward the "low" side. This is re- to the grinding wheel. The low grip tact with the wheel; and devote extra grinding time allows energy to be efficiently transferred to the to those spots that register as high with the straight- cutting edge and, in the case of thick irons, is key edge. Slight upward does not change until the new grind marks have pressure from the thumb and pinkie tucks the iron reached the edge and a burr has developed.

Once into the palm or against the heel of the hand. With you have effected a change, roughly gauge the the wrist held firm, tbe iron, hand, and forearm progress with the straightedge, which will give only become a single unit that guards against wobble a rough reading because of interference from the and gives close control over the selected honing burr. When the cutting edge is close to a final con- angle. Caution: if your fingers consistently contact tour, hone the burr away with the B,OOO-grit stone the stone while honing, the skin will be worn off; read on about honing technique , and then obtain bloody streaks on the stone are the first indication an accurate reading with the straightedge.

As you ouch! Place develops on the bevel also cues you to the condition one foot about six inches in front of the other, and of the contour. You may need to hop from wheel feet a little more than shoulder-width apart. Hone to smne a few times until satisfied wid1 the result. Honing grip for plane irons, Circular honing pattern, Use the whole stone and pass over the center quickly.

The circular motion smaller tools sharpen more quickly. You may some- originates almost entirely from the shoulder; hold times need to back off, to avoid excessively sharp- your wrist and elbow firm, but without tension.

As described above, proper grip can while maintaining complete controL More pres- and motion; along with the wide bevel. As you tle while learning the motions, It is all too easy to hone, two polished flats develop: one at the cutting inadvertently shde off the stone, chipping off a edge and one at the heel of the beveL They should cbunk of it in the process, Another consideration grow at equal rates as you hone, and show no about pressure concerns the size of the inm, If the evidence of doming.

Doming indicates wobble; pressure from your hand is constant, then the nar- concentrate on focusing the force of the fingertips rower the blade, the higher the developed pressure right through the middle of the bevel if troubles pounds per square inch on the cutting edge, so persist. Polish the bevel tly rock the iron until you Sfmse that the bevel is briefly to obtain a reading of' the shape of the edge: flat on the stone.

Pick up the heel of inch wide should be sufficient. If the 8,grit the blade very slightly, increasing the angle of the slone is kept meticulously flat, it can reveal if the blade to approximately 30 degrees. Think of the shape is straight, "vavy, arced, or hollowed, and to iron as the minute hand of a clock pivoting at the what degree. The location and ex. It is important to keep pressure in the rotation. You will also get false readings if the stone is same technique described earlier.

Only one pol- out of nat. The heel Hollowed faa much arc of the bevel should remain untouched. With practice, you will have little problem maintaining the wedge angle Wavy Drooped corner for several sharpenings before returning to the grinder. Honing Irons with a Ground Edge For irons that have been freshly ground to a knife- Straight Good arc like edge and have a burr present this includes most new irons , begin honing at what is Llsually considered the final honing stage, that is, with the 8,DOO-grit finish stone.

Don't be skeptical. The a,OOO-grit stone will quickly polish the bevel and simultaneously rerno,re any burr on tlle back side, , Assessing the grind of a plane iron. A brief honing polishes the bevel, giving a diagnostic of the shape of the regardless of the coarseness of the grinding wheel ClItting edge. This works not only because water stones cut quickly, but also because If the contour is off.

The surface area being honed is very small, so Honing on a fiat stone ahvays reveals the high spots consequently the PSI is very high. Following this of the cutting edge. If tbe center is hollowed, the advice minimizes time spent honing and time ends will polish first and musl be ground down. A good tl'aight must be precise control over the depth and lateral r:ontour is revealed by a perfectly even lille of ] a dju st me nts in order t.

Itemate case, I return to the coarse stone, remove or add a grinding and taking a reading w'ith the finish stone little arc as required, finish-hone, and tfV the blade until you achieve the proper contour, stl"aight or again.

Sometimes this might tale two or three arced; then finish honing on the S,OOD-grit stone. To arc the edge, simply ish-honing the bevel on the S,OOO-grit stone two or alternate pressure at the corners of the be e1.

If three trips up and down the stone, polishing it to a your index, middle, and ring fingers arc supplying high sheen. Then hone the back side. Since honing tIle bevel probalJly already down. The blade will be arced in no time. Th tcll if removed the burr, the purpose here is simply to you are on the right track, check the hurr; it should keep the back side n.

A few short strokes at either end of the center. Honing similarly on the B,OOO-grit stone stone, avoiding the center, suffice and prevent the yields an evenly polished bevel, though arced, from stone from hollowing. Another, more elegant method of drdng the Checkin. Despite the care T take to distribute wear After honing, objectively assess 'i'l-'hether the edge is over the stonc's surfaces, they still evel1lually hol- free from nicks and sufficiently sharp for planing.

Thcy reach a certain point honing, a return to the grinder, Or is ready for usc. Also, the hair-shaving test prcsents a iron, lOW I keep an additional coaTSe stone, threshold: the blade either is, or isn't, sharp enough which I ne,'er flatten, and it always produces a to do it.

Use the alternating-pressure blade, and the thumbnail-drag test reveals sharp- method on the B,OOO-grit stone to polish the ness along the continuum. A touch will indicate entire arc.

Obtaining the optimum arc requires finesse at Hold your thumbnail on the edge of the blade as the stones and experience with the planes, The shown in , Drag the tip of your nail along the planes must be in perfect working OTder and there length of the blade. The worn edge of the hlade has round- nicks in the edge. If you feel uniform b. A thick. Continue the process until a Begin with the grit stone.

The primary pur- sharp, nick-free edge is achieved, An iron with soft- pose of this step is to form a crisp knife-like edge er steel usually requires only one cycle. The entire where the bevel and the back side of the blade process of coarse and fine han ing should take abou t meet.

Just as with grinding l this occurs the 30 to 90 seconds. Ulltil a burr arises, the cutting edge still exllibits rounding that occurred from the abrasion of planing.

The edge contour sl,ould still be satis- factory, so hone to maintain a straight or arced edge as needed, Use the grit stone sparingly.

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