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No hiccups getting the velvet onto to the plywood. I was worried that it would wrinkle on me because I wouldn't be able to pull it tight. A couple of spots had bits of fuzz.
I picked them off because I don't want them to jam the plywood bottom while putting it in place. It looks like all the pics I took last night at my desk didn't come out that good. Got a good fit and there is no white showing around the edges. I'll be calling this done after this last coat of shellac. While it was drying I made a road trip to the grocery store.
I don't think going early to the stores will change for me in retirement. I couldn't get the velvet bottom to come out.
I didn't have much luck with the pick neither. I had to use two in order to get it out. It took a few dance steps before I got a loose fit. It involved a lot of plane and fit because I wanted it to look like it was a solid bottom but still drop out freely. I am not taking any bets on the biscuit repair not setting off my OCD.
I'll use it for a bit and I may end up making another drawer down the road. I wiped down the bottom of the sides of both drawers with this. The new one is going to the right of the monitor. It will occupy a bit more real estate than the current one and I had to do a rearranging of the crap on the desk.
I am wishing now that I didn't put the ledger on the top back. The desk lamp is cramped in the space forward of it. It is also up too high on the new one. With it in front of the drawers I will have to move it first to gain access to them. Hmm, what to do, what to do. I am thinking of making a new side desk thingie. This one has one drawer and a big open space beneath it.
Thinking of adding two more drawers to this one or making a new one from scratch. Over the past few months I have been making lunch on sunday and also for a few lunches during the week. I started it early today and it is cottage pie s. It looks like shepard pie but there is a difference. Shepard pie is made with lamb and cottage pie with beef or pork. I under estimated how many potatoes to mash.
I had to smash a few more to finish these off. I froze a large gratin dish and the 3 rounds are for lunch today and later on in the week. The one on the far left is leftover that I froze too. I will know the next time I make this how much I'll need and which dishes I'll need. Decided to make a few of the envelope holders. My wife wants one and I'll make one for each of my sisters.
That leaves one for? This is 5 and it is smaller than the other 4. The width of it is an inch short of them.
I made a few changes over the one I made last week. All five of these will be made from plywood. This will be a first for me making multiples of something out of plywood. I could clamp the bottom and the outside banding together. I was having fits with getting the bottom flush with the bottom of the banding. Rather than go nutso trying to keep the bandings flush and the bottom, I decided to glue up the banding first separately.
I noticed when I tightened the clamp the long sides bowed in. When I glue it up I'll insert the bottom to keep the long sides parallel to each other. This is the last purchase from a pre-retirement spending spree.
This is the coarsest diamond stone that DMT sells. This is the second surprise with this stone too. When I ordered it the website said it was back ordered until April.
Then I got a shipping notice and Fed Ex said I would get it on tuesday before It came today. I have a friend who loves using plywood and not covering the edges. I went with it here because I don't have solid, thin wood to get the dividers.
I guess it is like me liking sap wood and not working around it. I bought the new stone to help out with this. It is a marble threshold with 80 grit sandpaper on it. It works well establishing bevels etc etc and due to its 36" length it doesn't take too long. If I remember this diamond stone is grit?. It is grinding a new bevel just as quick as the 80 runway and maybe a wee bit quicker.
I do wish it was longer than 8". From starting with the new diamond stone to the 8K japanese stone, it took about minutes. It was a lot easier cleaning the diamond stone vice changing sandpaper. The bases for all five are carved in stone. I sawed the dividers to the finished width but left them long on the length. Two of the dividers for 5 went south in a hurry. When I took them out of the grooves two of them warped into a pretzel shape.
Glad I had extras. The base fit within the banding on the width but it was long on the length by a strong 32nd. I trimmed it on the shooting board until it dropped inside the bandings freely. My bet would be on the banding as the out of square culprit. There was a slight gap here on the top left and a smaller gap diagonally on the bottom right.
I wicked in some rapid fuse to fill it in and give a helping hand to the white glue. I taped them together and cut them out on the bandsaw. Left the tape in place and used the sanding sticks to smooth them out. The top one fits and I shot the other two to match its length. Those two were 2 frog hairs over fitting in the middle and bottom grooves. After this has set up I'll shoot them until they fit. I am leaning in the direction of using epoxy to hold the dividers in place.
If they still feel loose in the grooves I'll use epoxy. If they are snug I'll use white glue. This is how I square the end of my irons when needed. Repeated as necessary until it was square.
Then it was back to the new diamond stone to establish the bevel. I almost screwed this up. I forgot to flatten the back first and then do the squaring and bevel grind. The state of this Lakeside frog surprised me. This is not your usual looking frog sides.
Both sides have two tabs, one in the middle and another down by the toe. Stanley frog sides don't have this detail. There is a pit forward of the middle tab that I am leaving. It is too deep to file flush. Once it is painted it shouldn't be noticeable. The tabs in the plane body and the ones on the frog keep it from moving laterally.
It is just a frog hair shy of being a friction fit. I pushed the envelope a wee bit too much doing the second iron. My left thumb started throbbing with a new level of pain for me to experience. The first two fingers on my right hand were stiff and achy. Those felt like my carpal crap was acting up again there. I couldn't make a fist because these two fingers wouldn't close up.
I'll pick up on this tomorrow. My work board consists of two layers of MDF, the bottom layer is simple a base for support and the upper layer will have a scooped out area in the lower bout for the dome of the guitar top. It will be attached to the lower layer with screws. I rough out the shapes with a jigsaw, the lower layer is refined a bit with the help of a belt sander, then I tack the upper layer on with two screws, put a flush trim rout bit in my router and trim the upper to match the lower.
This excerpt discusses one way to choose wood for your workbench: its cost per pound. Or you can look at the average dried weight of a cubic foot of the wood also at 12 percent moisture content. These are useful, but I think you can also make some important comparisons by factoring in the local price of a species. Is rib eye ritzier than hamburger? The price per pound helps us answer that question and yes, it is.
For example, a cubic foot of hard maple consists of 12 board feet of maple. That cubic foot weighs 44 lbs. Longleaf pine a yellow pine is 78 cents a board foot for No. That cubic foot weighs 41 lbs. Or a remarkably cheap 23 cents per pound. That cubic foot weighs 69 lbs. The chart compares some of the common U.
This cost-per-pound calculation is simple to do yourself using your local prices. Now divide that number by the weight of a cubic foot of that species a statistic that is easily found in books and online. The result is the cost per pound. Do the Math From the chart, ash looks like a good choice among the hardwoods. The problem with that assessment is that by the time you are reading this book, white ash might be almost extinct.
The emerald ash borer has devastated the ash forests in the United States. So, you might not be able to buy it at any price. We have been plagued by punky ash for the last few years as the sawyers have milled up trees that have been standing dead. Aside from ash, poplar and the maples are a great bang for the buck. Both are easy to work, readily available and fairly cheap by the pound. Neither is considered a noble species for a workbench, like European beech.
But if you want to go full redneck, read on. Softwoods that are used for structural members in home construction — the yellow pines, Douglas fir, hemlock and some spruces — are an outstanding value.
They are heavy, cheap and readily available at any lumberyard. After working with them most of my life in residential construction and workbench building, they remain my No. Just go to the home center if you want though I always prefer family lumberyards. They have plenty. Also important: They have plenty.
At a family lumberyard it pays to ask permission they will sometimes be happy to help you. Either way, just be sure to restack the lumber nicer than you found it. If you find a yard that deals in No. If you buy No. Yellow pine is easy to work. So there must be disadvantages. Yes, but they are slight. Construction lumber is sold in a wetter state than hardwood lumber. While hardwoods are typically sold at about 12 percent moisture content or at equilibrium with some environment that is not the case with construction lumber.
It is wetter. How wet? In the Midwest it might be percent moisture content. On the West Coast, it might be even wetter as in wet enough to ooze and squirt water. So, you need to gather up what you need to build your bench, cut it to rough length, stack it and wait a bit. When lumber is rushed through a kiln it can develop tension that is released when you cut it. Sometimes the wood will pinch so hard on a blade it will stop a 3-horsepower table saw like pinching out a candle.
How do you deal with this? The final disadvantage: Softwoods are uber-redneck. After I calculated the cost of yellow pine per pound 23 cents based on published statistics, I decided to see if that worked in the real world. So, I weighed several 2x12x8s and came up with an average weight of Plus, the boards in this particular pile were fairly average — not full of sap or with lots of heavy summerwood.
In other words, they were a bit on the lightweight side. But still a great deal. I wondered, how did that work out after surfacing the boards and gluing them up? After gluing up the top, I managed to weigh it on a heavy-duty scale we use for shipping crates. The top weighed pounds. Still a bargain if you ask me. Before I went to the shop this AM I spent a long time reading my kumiko book.
I read half of it and before I knew it two hours had passed me by. Just as well because my wife decided to sleep in this morning. The late start kind of followed me for the rest of the day and I didn't get a lot accomplished. I did solve a plane problem and I had to deal with a couple of hiccups. It was the perfect day to take it slow and fix the boo boos. This is used to make birds mouth pieces for kumiko. The thin strip of wood that I thought was a sample is used with this jig.
The scissors are very sharp but I had a difficult time cutting out a piece of this velvet. The cut I ended up with was ragged out but luckily the fabric didn't run or unravel.. The spray adhesive I used bled through the velvet and onto the lid. I was able to remove most of it with a rag and mineral spirits. I had reservations about this after the problems I had cutting a piece off with scissors.
The razor blade did a clean cut except for one spot where I cut into the plywood. I'll have to redo this with the double sided tape.
That shouldn't have any bleed through headaches. I can see where I had to scrub with the mineral spirits. There are also a few grayish streaks that don't look good neither. I initially did the areas where I cleaned it with mineral spirits.
But I went back and scraped off the entire lid down to bare wood. This is one thing about shellac as a finish I like. I could have just gone over it and it would have flowed and filled into itself again.
I wasn't sure how deep the adhesive had gone so starting over with bare wood eliminated any problems with that. I did that so I could revisit a planing exercise I did earlier in the week. The LN left a much better planed surface than the other two planes.
I tried all 3 planes again in two directions. Before the advent of industrial design , cabinet makers were responsible for the conception and the production of any piece of furniture.
In the last half of the 18th century, cabinet makers, such as Thomas Sheraton , Thomas Chippendale , Shaver and Wormley Brothers Cabinet Constructors, and George Hepplewhite , also published books of furniture forms. These books were compendiums of their designs and those of other cabinet makers. With the industrial revolution and the application of steam power to cabinet making tools, mass production techniques were gradually applied to nearly all aspects of cabinet making, and the traditional cabinet shop ceased to be the main source of furniture, domestic or commercial.
In parallel to this evolution there came a growing demand by the rising middle class in most industrialised countries for finely made furniture.
This eventually resulted in a growth in the total number of traditional cabinet makers. Before , fine furniture was a rarity in Western Europe and North America. Generally, people did not need it and for the most part could not afford it. They made do with simple but serviceable pieces. The arts and craft movement which started in the United Kingdom in the middle of the 19th century spurred a market for traditional cabinet making, and other craft goods.
It rapidly spread to the United States and to all the countries in the British Empire. This movement exemplified the reaction to the eclectic historicism of the Victorian era and to the 'soulless' machine-made production which was starting to become widespread.
After World War II woodworking became a popular hobby among the middle classes. The more serious and skilled amateurs in this field now turn out pieces of furniture which rival the work of professional cabinet makers. Together, their work now represents but a small percentage of furniture production in any industrial country, but their numbers are vastly greater than those of their counterparts in the 18th century and before.
Main colors of glam cabinets can follow high impact or soft and luxurious directions. The most important feature of this style is the combination of lighter neutral tones with intense, sharp dark shades such as black, navy blue and jewel tones. Main features of glamour in cabinetry are:. This style of design is typified by clean horizontal and vertical lines. Compared to other designs there is a distinct absence of ornamentation.
While Scandinavian design is easy to identify, it is much more about the materials than the design. This style of design is ornate. French Provincial objects are often stained or painted, leaving the wood concealed.
Corners and bevels are often decorated with gold leaf or given some other kind of gilding. Flat surfaces often have artwork such as landscapes painted directly on them. The wood used in French provincial varied, but was often originally beech. This design emphasises both form and materials. Early American chairs and tables are often constructed with turned spindles and chair backs often constructed using steaming to bend the wood.
Wood choices tend to be deciduous hardwoods with a particular emphasis on the wood of edible or fruit-bearing trees such as cherry or walnut. The rustic style of design sometimes called "log furniture" or " log cabin " is the least finished.
Design is very utilitarian yet seeks to feature not only the materials used but in, as much as possible, how they existed in their natural state. For example, a table top may have what is considered a "live edge" that allows you to see the original contours of the tree that it came from. It also often uses whole logs or branches including the bark of the tree.
Rustic furniture is often made from pine , cedar , fir and spruce. Rustic furniture is usually very simple, handmade and over sized. It is characterised by a bit of roughness raw woods which look a bit undone.
Colors connected with earthy tones: grays, greens and browns are very common here. Kitchen furnished with rustic cabinets is cozy,warm and inviting. Also see Adirondack Architecture. Mission Design is characterized by straight, thick horizontal and vertical lines and flat panels.
The most common material used in Mission furniture is oak. For early mission cabinetmakers, the material of choice was white oak, which they often darkened through a process known as "fuming". It is a style that became popular in the early 20th century; popularized by designers in the Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveaux movements. Also known as Asian Design , this style of furniture is characterized by its use of materials such as bamboo and rattan.
Red is a frequent color choice along with landscape art and Chinese or other Asian language characters on the pieces.
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