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wood-workshop-floor-covering-pdf The native carver is fond of massing foliage without the stalk to lead him. But this wopd not always the case, and the Oriental is at times more restrained in his methods. Many examples of the wooden images worrkshop the gods, were preserved down to late historic times. Something brass would be ideal. Can you cook with a rocket mass heater? I rebuilt a YAB and ran into some of the same problems you did. A new ball is included in wood workshop floor covering pdf parts kit.

Just below it is the replacement part my jack requires. Second photo-- Coat the new neoprene seal with fresh jack oil. During the installation of all parts, double check for any grit or dirt sticking to the oily parts and remove it before the installation of that part.

Install the new neoprene seal, rounded end first. Install the steel washer and the locking nut. I will discuss how tight to tighten the locking nut after treating how to install the spring assembly onto the plunger body. I made a special tool for putting the plunger assembly back together. The wire came from stubs of concrete reinforcement wire broken off from a friend's foundation for his new garage. The third photo shows how this special tool is used.

I chucked this tool in my small drill press. The circle of wire at the end of the tool fits over the top of the cap for the plunger assembly. The two straight pieces welded crosswise allow the quill of the drill press to exert pressure downward and to collapse the spring so the "C" ring can be attached. Notice that the bottom end of the plunger body presses against wood so the smooth machined surface is not scratched.

I used an adjustable pliers to close the "C" ring. My drill press has limited adjustment. I used a couple of pieces of wood on the drill's base in order to achieve the desired distance between the chuck and the surface supporting the smooth end of the plunger.

Now tighten the locking nut mentioned in connection with the first photo in steps. Push the plunger down and let the spring cause it to return.

Tighten the nut more and more until the plunger appears it may become sluggish to return. Back the nut off just a little. Check the plunger for dust and particles of wood.

Thread the plunger into the base of the bottle jack unit. Tighten with a wrench and hit the wrench several times with a hammer to make a good seal, since there is no "O" ring or copper washer to make the seal. First photo --I have a dental pick I can use to remove old seals. This "O" ring shows cracks from age when stretched a little.

Match the new "O" ring from the parts kit to the old "O" ring. Coat it with jack oil. Install the new "O" ring. Second photo --Install the conical metal seal in the hole for the release valve. The pointed end goes in first. Tamp on it with a small screwdriver to make sure it seats at the bottom of the hole. Thread the release valve into the hole. First photo --The hole for the check valves has a copper sealing washer inside it.

The old washer is barely visible in the hole. Note its color. A new copper washer is supplied in the parts kit. The old washer has compressed to fit very tightly. There is no good way to remove it. I did not want to fill the passageways in my jack with copper shavings from digging it out in pieces.

I decided simply to place the new washer on top of what is left of the old washer. This photo was made before the plunger and the release valve were installed. Second photo --Install the parts in the order shown in this photo from step 8. The release valve and the plunger are not shown in this photo. Use the new balls from the parts kit. Do all of this inside a pan or shallow cardboard box so none of the balls are lost if one gets away from you.

Tamp the parts down with a small screwdriver so they settle down as far as possible in their hole. Carefully start the screw plug with a screwdriver. It is easy to crossthread. Use the special screwdriver made from a hardened bolt to tighten the screw plug with a wrench. Third photo --Install the parts shown in this photo from step 8. Drop the new ball into the hole. Insert the spring into the open end of the cap and drop both into the hole. Insert the screw plug.

Carefully turn the screw plug until the valve assembly bottoms out. I chose not to install the metal plugs that close the valve holes yet in case I would need to open one of the valves during testing of the jack to correct a problem.

First photo --The dental pick is too weak to remove the ram seal on the bottom end of the ram. I used a small screwdriver. Notice how the seal cracks and breaks after forty years. Remove the nylon collar behind the seal and clean away any fragments. Second photo --The parts kit includes three ram seals.

Two of them appear to match the old seal in the first photo. Check the opening of the cylinder with a caliper and use the seal that most closely matches it.

The new ram seals are not very pliable. I had to press down on the ram while it was positioned over the hole in the seal. That got it started.

Then I could wrestle the seal onto the ram the rest of the way. Third photo --The open portion of the cup-like seal should point toward the bottom of the ram and of the jack. Clean away any gritty pieces of dirt. Coat the new seal with jack oil.

Coat the inside of the cylinder with jack oil before inserting the ram. You should be able to pull the ram up and push it down with your hand. A seal too large in size makes the ram very difficult to install and to Wood Workshop Vancouver Pdf move. Be careful. Never use a hammer on the top end of the ram. On my jack I learned the hard way that it is cast iron and chips will break off of it. First photo --Insert the wire mesh oil filter into the hole from which it came.

Second photo --Clean the tank shell, both on the edges that mate to make a seal and inside. I found quite a bit of dirt inside mine. The dirt had not entered the jack from the outside, but appeared to be residue that had formed from changes in the oil. I applied some jack oil to the inside of the tank and wiped it with a clean paper towel.

I did this several times until I could no longer feel anything gritty with my fingertips. Third photo --Clean the ram nut. Replace the neoprene seal ring inside the narrower opening. See the left text box. Clean the mating surface where the nut seals with the tank shell.

See the right text box. Place the nut over the ram and begin turning it down as far as you can by hand. Fourth photo --This photo was also used in step 6 to illustrate removal of the nut. Strike on the other side of the arm to tighten. Retrace what you did in step 4, but in reverse, to bolt the bottle jack unit back into the jack's frame. The photo is from that step. While the bolts are still loose, put the handle's yoke in place. I used about 20 ounces of jack fluid. Around 12 ounces was used to fill the jack.

The rest was used for cleaning and flushing the bottle jack unit. Even though the bottles for the jack oil have a pointed end, some spurts out while trying to get the bottle end to the hole, and it makes a mess. Get a funnel with a very narrow end. This is one I made specifically for this job from some sheet metal. I filled the reservoir in small steps. The jack's release valve was open.

Occasionally I pumped the yoke for the handle. When oil was at the level below the plug hole, I pulled the lift arm up and let it fall two or three times. This is to draw oil through the jack. I pumped the yoke between five and ten times to remove any air lock in the check valves. I checked the oil level again a couple of times. Then I returned the reservoir cap. The reservoir cap appears to be open, but actually has a small felt filter inside it. Update : After using my jack a few times, it tends to throw off extra oil through the felt filter in the reservoir cap.

I do not have the original instructions for this jack, so I do not know exactly what the recommended fill level is for it. From what I have read, some jacks are to be filled to the bottom of the hole while the floor jack is level on a floor. Others vary between just covering the cylinder with oil to slightly below the fill hole. At first I thought I might have a leak, but it was just the jack throwing off extra oil. This extra oil may also be due to the jack evacuating air trapped inside the jack.

There are bubbles in the oil vented. One source suggested raising the jack fully and lowering it slowly twenty or so times to remove all air that might be trapped inside the jack's passageways. Check the oil level to keep it at the desired level. My jack worked as it should immediately. The real test is to lift something heavy with the jack.

I left the jack in this position for a few minutes. It did not leak down that I could see. Now I can use a hammer to tap the metal caps into the holes for the safety overload valve and for the check valves. I will check the fluid level again after I have used the jack several times. I will also watch for signs of leakage. It is also a good idea to oil or grease all moving parts on the jack now and regularly in the future.

Troubleshooting --What do you do if you have rebuilt your jack, but it still does not work under load? Be certain the oil level is correct. Here are instructions on properly filling a floor jack. The jack could be air locked. This site says to open the release valve and pump the handle rapidly 10 to 15 times in that case.

Here is a link to a document on troubleshooting hydraulic systems, like a jack. If Wood Workshop Floor Covering Effect necessary, check to be certain all check valve balls were installed properly. Check for leaks. Conclusions --I did not find any clearly damaged seals in my jack, other than cracks in an "O" ring on part of the release valve, but it was a non-critical part.

I did find dirt in the oil. I expect the seals were just old and less efficient. It feels good to have my jack working again, especially since it once belonged to my father. Rebuilding a hydraulic floor jack was much more difficult and a lot more work than I expected from information I had gathered before I began. I found some parts were not as easy to remove as I expected from videos and other helps that I linked earlier in this Instructable, and I had to make several special tools.

I first had to develop those in my mind. Then I had to design them and build them with materials I already had. Fortunately, I have a welder and was able to do that without too much difficulty. I can easily understand why many suggest a person ought simply buy a cheap jack and replace it with another when it fails.

I have a hard time doing that, no matter how much financial sense it might make, That seems like the waste of a good tool containing numerous carefully machined parts. An imported floor jack comparable in capacity to mine lists for around twice the cost of the parts kit I bought, sometimes even less than twice the cost of the parts kit.

I do not know if my Fleet jack will last longer than an import jack. Knowing all I know now, I might suggest flushing out old jack oil every decade and replacing it with fresh, clean fluid. Even then, I am not sure draining the old fluid and refilling the jack with new fluid would have removed all of the dirt I found.

Some of it was in places that seemed to hold the dirty oil in that particular place. The oil in the reservoir had always appeared clear and clean. Still, neoprene seals used in hydraulic jacks do harden or crack and will fail to seal properly in time. Owning and using a hydraulic jack is often a necessity.

But, it has costs over time. Those costs mean the eventual repair or replacement of a jack. If you choose to repair your jack, you have the option of doing it yourself or of taking it to a shop.

If you choose to do it yourself, you will learn a lot, but it may require more of your time and be more difficult than you expected. If you take it to a shop, there will be a cash outlay that will likely be a fair amount greater than the cost of a new imported jack. Several times I feared I had ruined a vital part on my jack, or was about to do so, simply because I was without knowledge and experience related to rebuilding a floor jack.

It is my hope that this Instructable will enable others who wish to do so to rebuild a hydraulic jack with confidence and without some of the near mishaps I experienced. I wish someone had published this before I began to rebuild my jack.

It would have saved me time and trouble. Question 8 months ago on Introduction. Answer 8 months ago. Ajack does not get hot and accumulate burned residue. Most parts will wipe clean with a rag. Sometimes there was residue where oil dried out. A wooden popsicle stick cut off square makes a good tool for removing oil residue without scratching the steel.

Reply 8 months ago. Thanks for the step by step instruction, I have a Selson I am about to rebuild This will help me alot There is one thing I learned that is worth knowing. Rebuild kits for hydraulic devices, even pneumatic devices, sometimes include two nearly identical O-rings, but one is slightly larger. One works, but the other does not. If an O-ring does not seem to fit, or the device does not seem to work, check for a nearly identical O-ring.

A couple of years ago, my son-in-law rebuilt a nail gun. It did not work after rebuilding. He asked me to look at it. I replaced an O-ring with a nearly identical O-ring that was just a little different, and suddenly the nail gun worked just fine. I ran into something similar on rebuilding my jack.

Very very good posting on rebuild of floor jack. Will be helpful with much detail for anyone wanting to complete a jack rebuild Thanks for all your suggestions, KneeWalker.

I rebuilt a YAB and ran into some of the same problems you did. Like you I'm not sure it was worth the trouble Reply 1 year ago. I understand. My life situation has changed. I am retired with a car that gets about all of its service at the dealership. We moved across the country and I left my floor jack with a brother-in-law. Here there is a son-in-law who will lend me a floor jack when I need one, but that has not happened.

But, it is something you can check on your bucket list. Question 1 year ago on Step 2. How can I get the diagrams for the ya snap on two and a half ton floor jacks I need them badly.

Answer 1 year ago. Question 1 year ago on Step I made a mistake by unscrewing the relieve valve by simply turning the handle counter-clockwise with the u-joint, and now I cannot seem to threaded it back in. I wonder if the little metal seal fell off or if it is displaced inside preventing the threads to engage. Any tips will be appreciated? I do not remember many details from rebuilding this jack eight years afterward. One commenter rebuilds hydraulic jacks professionally.

Perhaps he can give you more help. He is Skipper Better safe than sorry. It is your choice. But, I worked carefully and found my jack completely safe when finished. As with any jack the user wants a failsafe of sturdy blocks in case even a new jack fails or leaks down in use so the user is not pinned under a vehicle.

Phil b thank you for your info on this nice jack, I have the identical jack had problems finding out much about it. Had to really improvise and more obstacles than I thought beganing this project, but like you I love the old well made items from our past. Thank you very much. Hah, what Wood Workshop Practice Pdf 8bit are the odds that I would find someone that rebuilt the same jack that I have.

It's survived multiple moves and now resides in Michigan. Has the same problems: won't hold a load and now won't even pump up. I keep meaning to throw it out, but now I'll be sending for a seal kit and giving it a go. Nice Job documenting the procedure, thanks.

Introduction: Rebuilding a Hydraulic Floor Jack. By Phil B Follow. More by the author:. About: I miss the days when magazines like Popular Mechanics had all sorts of DIY projects for making and repairing just about everything. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Incredible Wooden Spirals by rschoenm in Woodworking. GeoH42 Question 8 months ago on Introduction.

Answer Upvote. Phil B GeoH42 Answer 8 months ago. Reply Upvote. GeoH42 Phil B Reply 8 months ago. Phil B house washer Reply 8 months ago. Phil, thanks for the extra info on the O rings, will keep that in mind Kneewalker 10 months ago. Phil B doorcountyconstruct Reply 1 year ago.

Robertfab01 Question 1 year ago on Step 2. Phil B Robertfab01 Answer 1 year ago. A mix of sand, clay and sometimes straw. Kinda like adobe. It ends up hard, like rock, but is somehow easier to sit on than rock or cement. So far, cob has been the most popular material for creating a rocket mass heater.

DVD1 is all about building a rocket mass heater with cob. In the DVD we build two cob style rocket mass heaters. The first is a very basic build in a log structure. The second is in a tipi to demonstrate the heating properties of a really well built cob style rocket mass heater:. This creator attended the workshop from the "Wood Burning Stoves 2. We think there have been about , to , built so far. Interest is huge and growing fast. I think we will hit a million soon.

Here is a video from an earth day demonstration in You can see the fire burning and you can see clean exhaust. You can also see demonstrations of how cool the exhaust is. Indoor rocket mass heaters will cost more because you will want them to look nicer and be less likely to leak. Most concern for carbon monoxide poisoning comes from people confusing a rocket mass heater with a rocket stove.

Rocket mass heaters were invented by Ianto Evans, and he based the designs on his work with rocket stoves. But a rocket mass heater has its exhaust vented to the outdoors. Modern rocket stoves tend to be more for outdoor cooking. A well built rocket mass heater is safer than a natutral gas heater, a gas stove, a gas oven, a gas water heater or anything in your home that is connected to natural gas. In fact, if your wood pile has a "leak" you are much safer than if your natural gas system has a leak.

DVD2 shows a rocket mass heater installed in a manufactured home with a wood floor. Extra support is put under the floor. We have heard of a lot of people buying the DVDs and giving them to their favorite builder for this very purpose. This comprehensive book about rocket mass heaters just came out! This should put an end to the freak shows of flaming death showing up on YouTube mislabeled as rocket mass heaters - and put an end to getting the same questions asked over and over again.

This book is written by Erica Wisner and Ernie Wisner. The stars of all eight DVDs. Naturally, a lot of the information covered in this book matches very well to the content in the DVD. In fact, the primary example in the book is the cob style rocket mass heater built in the log structure in DVD1. Oodles of details about the rocket mass heater builder's guide. Erica and Ernie contributed heavily to this book which is now about ten years old.

They even contributed to the third edition which came out a few years ago. This book is written by Ianto Evans, the inventor of the rocket mass heater and illustrated by Leslie Jackson. It is a delicious exploration of how a rocket mass heater works.

While thousands of people have built rocket mass heaters using nothing but this book, things have come a long ways in the last ten years. This book is comfortable, enjoyable and of great value, but not so much a "how to" as much of helping you to understand "how come". For many years before Erica started to write the builder's guide, she was cranking out detailed plans for rocket mass heaters that she and ernie had designed and built during a workshop.

She would never relase plans until the installation was at least a year old and had proved to be a success. As the years passed, she amassed a LOT of plans, wrote several ebooks and even started share the earliest dabblings of her new book.

Demand was high. Eventually she offered it all as one big gob of files. This product is hot off the press, so most of the reviews are from people that supported our kickstarter. Reviews and discussion. So far the reviews all seem to rate these dvds as a 10 out of I have put other stuff on amazon in the past. It turned into a lot of work and amazon takes a fat cut. Maybe someday somebody that is good at amazon-ing will buy a few cases from me. Is a rocket mass heater cleaner than natural gas heat?

Here are the test results of one rocket mass heater burn. How is a rocket mass heater different from a regular wood stove? How can you make the claim of heating with one tenth the wood? This video is from and is a comparison for a home where a conventional wood stove was replaced with a rocket mass heater and now uses about one eighth of the wood: This video is from and features a home in the Okanogan Highlands where they will have snow all winter.

It shows how little wood is used: The engineering behind the technology credits: the inability to close dampers - the design is for a very hot burn every time, with a high volume of air splashing on the fire. Is a rocket mass heater legal? Can you cook with a rocket mass heater? Many people will put a kettle on the barel.

Here is one from our innovators event that is primarily for indoor cooking, but can also warm a small bench: Here are images from what is created in DVD4. How much does it cost to run? We have one story of a guy that heated his home all year with junk mail. Are there alternatives to the barrel? Here is a fabricated cylinder barrel with some engraving: Erica experimented with distressed copper: Here is a basic, fabricated barrel of a wood heater in a yurt: Peter van den Berg with his fat rabbit experiment at the innovators event - note that the "barrel" is just a fabricated cylinder: Here, the barrel is replaced with a special quartz bell during the innovators event so we can see the torus that is formed when the exhaust passes from the riser to the barrel:.

What is "cob"? The second is in a tipi to demonstrate the heating properties of a really well built cob style rocket mass heater: This creator attended the workshop from the "Wood Burning Stoves 2. How many of these have been built? Ernie Wisner, featured in all of these DVDs, has built over rocket mass heaters. Wood stoves are smoky. Saying that these have less smoke doesn't say a lot.

How much smoke is there, really? How much does it cost to build one?

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