Wood Countersink Bit With Depth Stop Stop,European Hinges For Cabinets Young,Drawer For Under Bench Zero - How to DIY
Safety Warning : Do not remove a factory-installed blade guard to install this accessory. We've designed this dust-collector hood for those who do not have the blade guard provided by the saw's manufacturer. You must use feather boards in conjunction with this hood; we show you how to build those on page 14 in the Downloadable Plans. In use, adjust the height of the hood over the saw table to suit the thickness of the stock you're sawing, and tighten the wing knobs.
Measure before you begin Before you begin construction, take a few measurements so you can fit the accessory to your tablesaw. This dimension will be the length of each part H. If your fence has a back rail, locate I and J to clear it.
Build the hood body first 1 Cut two pieces of stock for the Hood Sides A to the dimensions shown in the Bill of Materials found in the Downloadable plans at the end of this story. Temporarily fasten them together face to face, aligning the edges.
We did this with double-faced tape. Adhere the pattern to the stacked blanks. Separate the parts, and remove the pattern. This pipe, available from home centers, is smaller than 4" Schedule 40 PVC pipe.
Saw, sand, or plane bevels on the top and bottom edges where shown on the Hood drawing. Bevel the bottom edge. Unclamp the hood body assembly, apply woodworker's glue wood countersink bit with depth stop stop the joints, and drive in the wood screws. Build the adjustable bracket 1 Cut the bracket panel E to size. To do this easily, install a fence on your table-mounted router and set stops on it, as shown in wood countersink bit with depth stop stop Routing the Bracket Slot drawing.
Glue it to the face at the top end of the panel Eas shown in the Bracket drawing. Cut parts G, H, I, and J to size. Position one section of the support arm H between the body G and the cleat F as a spacer. To provide clearance for smooth sliding, stick a strip of masking tape to each edge of the support arm as temporary shims.
Remove the support arm before the glue dries. The Support drawing shows wood countersink bit with depth stop stop locations. Use a drill press for accuracy. Verify the hole's distance from the bottom of the arm H by placing the bracket wood countersink bit with depth stop stop on the arm. The slot and the hole must coincide. The holes in the top must mate exactly with those in the support arm Has shown in the Support drawing, top drawing.
To locate and drill the holes accurately, clamp the drilled arm to the upright, as shown in the center illustration. Drill as deep as you can with the arm in place. Then remove the arm, and drill the holes to the depth specified, as shown in the bottom illustration. Drill both ends of part I this way.
A Forstner bit and drill press will do the job easily. Cut the groove in several progressively deeper passes. Mask the groove in the arm H and the tenon on the upright I ; then wood countersink bit with depth stop stop a clear finish. We applied two coats of Aqua ZAR water-base polyurethane, sanding between coats with grit sandpaper.
Clamp the support arm H Wood Countersink Bit With Depth Stop Down to the upright I. Then guide through the holes in the support arm to locate the mating holes in the upright.
Drill as deep as you can. Remove the support arm to finish drilling the holes in the upright I to the specified depth. Take care to keep the holes straight. Attach the support to your saw 1 Cut the mounting base J to size. Drill appropriate screw holes in the part, and attach it to the spacer under the saw table extension.
Install a heavy-duty draw catch on the front. This is a stronger plastic than standard acrylic glazing, and less likely to break on impact. Drill and countersink screw holes, where shown on the Hood drawing. Attach the plastic with screws as shown.
For best results, support the pipe on a V-block on your drill-press table. Align the holes along the pipe's axis, and make sure the holes on opposite sides are directly across from each other. Tape it in place. Connect the hood to the support 1 Determine the length for the four parallel aluminum bars that will link the hood to the support.
To do this, place the hood on the saw table, centered from front to back over the blade slot, as shown in the illustration. Add 1" Countersink Drill Bit With Depth Stop Value to this dimension; the result will be the length of the aluminum arms. To do this, stack wood countersink bit with depth stop stop arms, and tape them together. Separate the parts. Attach the other ends to the bracket, as shown. Drive a x1" flathead machine screw into each hole. The screws will tap their own threads in the plastic pipe, so nuts aren't needed.
Center the hood assembly over the blade slot and center the bracket assembly behind the outlet pipe when measuring the length of the aluminum arms. Now, start wood countersink bit with depth stop stop dust 1 Connect a flexible hose from your dust collection system to the pipe on the hood.
Clamp it for security. Slide it to one side or the other as necessary for best vision. You could add a hook and eye or bullet catch to the arm to secure the folded section. Keyhole slots are a great way to affix wooden hangings, such as a shelf or picture, to a wall.
Skip to main content. Tablesaw Dust Collector. This tablesaw dust-collector hood is effective as well as convenient. The big window lets you see your cut at all times, and neither the hood nor its support will impede your sawing. Safety Warning Safety Warning : Do not remove a factory-installed blade guard to install this accessory. Measure First Measure before you begin Before you begin construction, take a few measurements so you can fit the accessory to your tablesaw.
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