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watco-stain-remover Watco stain remover say strip it down to bare wood. That could take a few weeks. Watco Safety Coat. Unless it is the floor you don't really gain watco stain remover with polyurethane. Warning Wear gloves if you are handling ammonia, and make sure the area where you are working is well-ventilated so you do not inhale wafco fumes.

Although Danish oil and teak oil are both blends of finishing oils , varnishes, and mineral spirits, the major difference between the 2 is that Danish oil creates a more waterproof and hard-wearing surface, much like pure tung oil. Dries quickly. Wax over Danish Oil isn't going to be an issue so long as the DO has had a few days to start curing and isn't feeling tacky or even still pooling up out of the pores.

Danish Oil Removal Use your painter's tape to isolate the area where you need to remove the Danish oil. Apply the stripper as indicated by the manufacturer's label, following the directions precisely. Use your putty knife and rags to remove as much of the Danish oil as possible after the stripper dries. By being able to directly compare LD50 values, we can see that chemicals in Danish Oil are not as toxic as benzene but almost 3 times more toxic than gasoline.

There is no doubt that Danish Oil contains some toxic substances. Most of the time that will act as a sealer between oil - based and water - based finishes. More correctly, the Danish oil has to be completely cured. That could take a few weeks. Try putting a coat of shellac between the two. You can apply wax over any other finish and it will give the surface a soft sheen and smooth feel, but don't put other finishes over wax.

If you wipe the wax off immediately, it will leave a dull sheen as it dries. For more shine, let it dry, then buff it with a soft cloth. Gloss oil -based varnish, polyurethane and Danish oil can last 10 or 20 years, though satin finishes and stains may fail sooner as pigments and flattening agents disable the driers. Water-based coatings and paints can also be viable longer than three years.

Shellac, though, can go bad in under a year. Compared to Tung Oil , which dries almost immediately and Linseed Oil , which can take hours per coat to dry, Danish oil can dry anywhere between hours. The drying factor is determined by the environment in which it is drying within.

The more moisture which is in the air, the longer it will take to dry. Danish oil is rather similar to teak oil in that it is usually composed of linseed oil , mineral spirits, and varnish. This composition makes it easy to use and is also quite durable. Danish oil can help protect wooden surfaces from heat damage, chemical damage, stains, and scratches.

There are many different types of Danish oil brands, but here are four that can provide a number of pieces with that perfect finished look. Watco Danish Oil. Tried and True Danish Oil. Furniture Clinic Boiled Linseed Oil. Briwax Danish Oil. Can you put polyurethane over Danish oil? Category: automotive road side assistance. Is Danish Oil redundant to Polyurethane? Mostly yes, you 'd normally use one or the other not both. Do you sand between coats of Danish oil?

Make it satin smooth. Is one coat of Danish oil enough? Does Danish oil seal wood? Can I put varnish over Danish oil? What does Danish oil do to wood? Can you put Danish oil over stained wood? Does Danish oil darken wood? What is the difference between tung oil and Danish oil? Should you wax after Danish oil? We did probably square feet. In some places it has absorbed into the wood and other placed it is shiny, but dry and not tacky to the touch.

Which is better in this case as we did a larger area? Mineral spirits or applying new stain and wiping? Hi, we just moved into a house where they stained the hardwood floors with minwax.

The stain did not absorb into the wood because the floors already had some kind of seal on them. Should I be concerned about this?? Hi Jon, Your question was answered in the second hour of our June 2nd Homefront radio show.

We bought a house and found hardwood floor under all the carpets, so naturally we pulled up the carpet and stained it. We then decided to go over the stain with Deft lacquer instead of poly because it dries faster. Our problem now is when we walk on the floor the stain is showing on our socks!!! I put pecan satin minwax stain and poly 1 step on cubard doord. Wrong color. How do I take off the first color? Hello, i recently bought what looked to me to be an old viola from an auction house, when i recieved the item it certainly looked old and needed a clean as it was very dusty.

We discovered hardwood under our carpets after we moved into our house in We sanded the floors, cleaned up the mess, then placed stain. After the stained dried, we placed a clear hard coating. Is this from cleaning my floors with a steamer?? Help please!!! What can i do to tone it down a little? We just built a breakfast nook and the last coat of stain was very sticky. Read your article, added a coat of stain and took a towel to it and it pulled it off beautifully. I am now looking at a completely finished non-sticky breakfast nook.

All other sites said to sand and use a thinner. Have a great day. After waiting a couple of days for the stain to dry on my newly built floating shelfs I did some research.

All other sites said to use mineral spirits to remove the stain and restain. Your site said to restain and wipe off after a few minutes, this sounded much easier and less expenvise. Thank you so much!

I think I goofed up big. I decided to refinish bottom cabinets. I sanded where they wer worn but not down to bare wood every where but all were sanded some. I apply stain and shortly after I applied poly fast drying but it had been in garfge for awhile.

We built a desk using new wood. We sanded and stained it and allowed it to dry. The next day we put on polyurethane clear coat. After about 20 hours it is still tacky. The desk is in the garage and I understand it may take longer to dry since its cold but is it normal to still be tacky?

Will the tackiness go away if we just allow it to dry longer? I used a minwax stain poly mix on a 5 yr old dresser, sanded the dresser down and then applied two coats per the directions, allowing for drying in between and doing the whole thing on my outside deck.

I allowed 12 hrs of drying time outside before moving it inside to my bedroom. The chemical stain is completely dry and looks great, but the smell is terrible and I just woke up with a sore throat.

Is there anyway to resolve this or should I strip it and use a different product?? I used Minwax Satin Polyshade and the first three chairs are perfect. However, the next chair was darker and the last one was darker still. These were done a day later. I think the mix is becoming thicker and so darker when applied. Can I add mineral spirits to the can to thin it out? I applied as thin of a coat as I could, though corners retained more stain. I was sure to read and follow the directions very carefully.

I thought due to this being a polyshades product- that it may need to be left on. I figured that May have something to do with the poly part of the product. Therefore, I have now allowed it to dry for about 20 hours 6was required according to directions.

In some areas, the project still feels slightly tacky. It is unusually cold here yesterday and today- therefore I have not opened the windows for additional ventilation. Should I just allow more time to dry? I really want to apply a second coat. The first coat looks great though some areas look a little more dull than others. Thank you in advance for your helpfulness! I sanded and cleaned my kitchen cabinets, I applied stain and notice they have a white film on them.

What can I do to fix this? I have two oak cabinets in a laundry room. I sanded both to bare wood and stained them the same stain can minwax english chestnut. One came out with a wonderful reddish tone and the other did not, more brown. They look like different colors of stain. Both cabinets are oak. Why the difference, or how do I prevent this? I stained my decks this spring and fell in a spot that was very much so over applied.

There was a lot of good stain remaining around the spot I made. I simply took some of that stain and tried smoothing it out. It looked really good but someone in the know said come fall I will see problems with it. I painted my floors with floor paint and most of its dry but still feels a bit sticky in some areas. I started a project that I think I did totally incorrect. My kitchen table stains easily so my goal was to touch those areas up, but I gathered in order to do that I would have to touch up the whole table.

I used a medium size paint brush, I stroked the table back and forth and I noticed on one side of the table it was darker in some areas and dry spots in other areas.

What can I do to correct this problem and bring my table back to life. Any other suggestions? I watched the humidity, the floor was sanded thoroughly. So, it has been a few days now since staining and we had a fairly warm day or two between the humidity. How should I continue? Should I wait longer for it to dry, or should I wipe down with laquer thinner, or carry on and apply a thin coat of the varnish?

I have spent months on this project, long story, and really want to get it done, but without error, as it has cost me alot of time and money.

Thanks so much! We open in a week. How can I solve this problem without damaging upholstery. I am working on building a drawer with fresh wood and like the original poster had to leave quickly before wiping excess stain off the drawer facing. Is using mineral spirits the only option left?

Thank you for any help you can offer! A few days ago we stained the mantle and it remained sticky. Tried the re- stain and wipe off. We will see if this works. I used Polyshades on the top of a cabinet I am refinishing.

It covered the grain more than I wanted and looks thick. I want to remove it NOW without the benefit of letting it dry overnight. Is this possible? Hello…we finished staining our closet door amd trim…it has been 4 days and is still sticky…can i put the sealer on and it will be ok??? Or no?

I lightly sanded my medium oak bathroom vanity and stained it with Minwax stain and finish yesterday. It was still shiny and sticky today.

I googled and found all kinds of complicated fixes. Your suggestion to apply another coat of stain and wipe off seems to be doing the trick. It looks great! Thank you so much. I have taken on a rather daunting project. I have stripped my stairwell treads down to the bare wood,sanded very well and now have stained most of the treads.

Now that I have the upper half stairs stained when I look down I see a few spots that need to be darker. Do I do the restain, wipe off process?

Because of high humidity in Honolulu, my stain has taken days to dry. Hope to hear from you soon. I am writing to let you that I have an antique oak table top project that I restained the 3rd coat before the 2nd coat had dryed. I had stained with a brush without any wipeoff. I read your advice here and today restained this logic seemed to go against the grain pun seems to work here being that too much stain was the cause of this problem but trusting in experience I went ahead brushed on a liberal amount and wiped off immediately with my cats.

The table is now drying normally and not shiney wet look anymore. It was an easy fix that I am very grateful to you all for. Thank you very much. Wanye, Glad to hear our advice helped! I also experienced a problem with a stain that remained sticky to the touch after about 8 hours. I applied the stain with a rag— which I prefer to a brush.

Instead, I immediately took a slightly used rag from the original staining process , and I rubbed down the sticky surface— until it once again felt slick and smooth. Well, I wish I had checked into your information first, but I think this will work out for me.

Successful staining is very absorbing. And BTW— the coffee table is looking great. Hi Alan, Good point. Wiping tacky oil based stain back down with a rag soaked in stain will usually dissolve the excess stain, since the stain contains solvent.

My husband and I are staining a dresser for our baby due in March. We used a minwax stain and applied the minwax pre stain conditioner prior to staining. We applied the first coats with a cloth.

Should we try a brush? Any advice is appreciated for us first time strainers. We are having a problem with oil based stain drying in my room on the floor now then what could be the problem?? I have taken a end table and sand it down to the wood, the stain did not take all over like it should of, so I put it on thicker and it did not dry. Hi Bonnie, It sounds like the wood may not have been sanded down enough and pores in the grain may still be sealed and are keeping the stain from penetrating.

Another possibility is the wood itself. You could try wiping the table down with mineral spirits to remove any excess stain, then allow it to dry and apply several coats of a tinted polyurethane such as Minwax PolyShades. We replaced old stairs with the kit you buy at homedepot, we stained, looks great but stairs are still sticky It left foot marks, its a high traffic area, we have not yet put on shine how do we remove foot marks??

Have we ruined the stairs:. My house was built in The floors and stairs had been painted and I have removed all the paint. Is there something I should do to condition the wood before staining? I used semi transparent stain on an old deck that I had power wash and sanded the day before.

How soon can re-stain it with a sold stain???? I recently sanded my oak banister down to bare wood it was originally painted white.

I applies 4 coats of varathan oil based stain. I allowed each coat to dry for hours as per the insrtuctions and then let it sit overnight. When it was all dry to the touch and smooth I started to apply varathane professional oil based clear coat. When I brushed on the clear coat it removed stain in some areas. I only did a small section when I noticed so I stopped but that small sections has some very light streaks in it. I have no idea why that happened or what to do with the rest of the banister.

Please help!!!!!!!! Hi, my dad is building a casket for a man who can not afford to buy one, his question is: how does he get dry spots out after he stains and clear coats the wood?

Hi Ben, I have read all the comments and problems, that people are having with stain oil based. I am having the same problem, I striped the old stain on a Mahogany Buffet, sanded and put the conditioner. After the first two coats of oil base stain. All was okay I wiped all excess,and was dry next day, but then on the third coat I forgot to clean excess and now after 12 hour still is sticky to the touch. I went to HD and people there told me to strip and sand all over again.

Sorry I will try what you say first and then I will let you know what happens. Hope you are right. Thanks in advance.. I thought it was the humidity so i put it in an air conditioned room for two days and still not dry. I am going to put a skim coat on and take a t-shirt and try that. Thanks again for posting this. Waiting about hr between coats. Deck was lightly power washed. I also used electric blower before applying the sealer. Also used brush to apply each coat.

What can I do to remedy the problem? My wife used oil based stain over a non-sanded painted table. I say strip it down to bare wood. She says apply more stain and rub lightly and even out the color.

I say it will never dry? If it stays tacky, can we put poly over it and will it dry and be durable? Hi, I am in the process of refinishing an antique vanity. It was in rough shape, so I removed all the old finish down to bare wood. But during that process there were a few blemishes on the top that seemed to be some sort of oil or hair product. I applied to coats of stain covered and blended these blemishes very well.

Then I applied my first coat of polyurethane and everything seemed well. I re-tinted it, but in the same spot it seems the poly will not dry or adhere properly. Is there something I can do to fix this or at least help the poly to cure fully so it is not tacky? I recently purchased Minwax Water Based stain honeydew color and Minwax pre-stain conditioner for applying on my stripped kitchen cabinets. The oak cabinets were sanded down to the wood very smoothly using grit aluminum oxide sandpaper.

I apply the stain with a bristle brush and wipe clean with cheesecloth soon after. Due to the fast drying time of water based stains, I apply the stain with a bristle brush and about 15 seconds later wipe off with cheesecloth. My problem is that when I apply the next brush stroke of stain adjacent to the one I just wiped off, I am left with about one eighth of an inch streak of brighter stain between the two areas. We are striping and staining our banister.

We wanted it really dark so we put the second coat on heavy and probably did not wipe enough off. It was still tacky after 3 days. Just tried lightly restaining and wiped off right away. Already looks better. We are doing a quick fix on a house and did not sand the floors before we stained, so of course the floor is still very tacky. If we apply polyurethane over the tacky floor, will that work or not?

Lightly sanded and stained a dining table top with oak stain, let dry and did a second coat and let dry. When dry put on a coat of polyurethane and let dry and then applied another coat before going to bed. It looked great and then great big areas of whitish creamy spots appeared in spots over the table so I cover it with a table cloth. Where there are no white spots the finish is great. I am wondering why this happened?

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