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As Seen on TV. Badger Basket. Blaze Under Vanity Storage Drawer Price Outdoor Products. Breighton Home. Chicago Cutlery. Christopher Knight Home. Farmlyn Creek. Grant Howard. Hodedah Import. Household Essentials. Cleaning around the sides is another thing to think about. There is a gap on either side of our vanity. So the wall seems to get tons of dirty drips from our little guys. If that would bother you, you might want to find a dresser that can fill the space.

You want to make sure the vanity top is snuggly against the wall. The wall should be protected by a short backsplash of some sort. Go with some sort of tile, vinyl, stainless steel, wood, or even something like the MDF V-groove wainscoting I used.

So, it works. I also put a bead of Clear Silicone Caulk between the wall and counter. This keeps water from slipping into the crack and causing rot. But, I just remember all of the times I climbed up on bathroom counters as a kid, and decided, better safe than sorry. Just as a design note, really pretty drawer pulls or knobs turn any dresser into a beautiful conversation piece. Please Note: These steps may not work with all types of materials and joinery or construction.

These steps will work best with drawers that are completely constructed of wood and firmly glued and joined together. I got a little impatient and cut before I had even picked a sink. Big mistake. My drawers could have been larger if I had waited. After the sink and plumbing is installed, measure the width and depth of the plumbing, and possibly sink, for each drawer.

Mark the measurements on the drawers. If you flip the drawer over, be sure to flip the measurements correctly too. Connect the marks with straight lines, to act as cut lines. If your drawers use side-mounted metal drawer slides or runners, try to keep that intact whenever possible. Most drawers work best and have the most amount of storage when cut into a U-shape.

This keeps the sides intact and just cuts out a section of the back and middle. If you can work with that shape, do it. If not, you could just create a really shallow drawer, like mine. If you do need to create a shallow drawer and previously had metal drawer slides, you might consider replacing the metal slide with a wooden drawer guide to maintain the same track. If your drawers have a wooden drawer runner underneath or on the sides, you should be able to cut those and glue them tightly back into place.

Make sure it is glued into the exact same spot to keep the drawer aligned correctly. I recommend tracing the line of the runner across the bottom or side of the drawer, or dresser frame, with a pencil before making any cuts. If making a U-shaped cutout a Circular Saw will make the quickest and cleanest cuts on the back side of the drawer.

Then you can finish up the cuts on the bottom of the drawer with a jigsaw. If you need to cut a shallow, straight-backed drawer, the circular saw will work fine across the job. For U-shaped drawers, that just have a notch cut out of the back, build a 3-piece patch. The patch will be U-shaped to. Just follow the cutout you just made to get your measurements. Always use wood glue to create a strong support. I prefer to put my patch on top of the old bottom so that it can create the strongest hold with glue and nails.

Vessel sinks may be harder to use in this situation as well. OK - I'm sorry - but the post about vessels sinks and people of all heights cracks me up. Can you change the height of the cabinet to accomodate different height individuals? The cabinet height is what affects overall height of the vessel - this has nothing to do with the vessel sink itself.

We have kids and we have many different vessel sinks - no problems. We like both for different reasons but my main objective here was to dispel some of the myths that seem to be perpetrated by those that have never lived with these types of sinks. I am not against vessel sinks as a design statement in any way. I think they have entered the design vocabulary permanently.

I don't think they are too "trendy" they've been around for 15 years or so. Vanity height used to be 30", now it is 33" and I just did a bath with vanities at the height of kitchen base units 36". If you don't PLAN ahead --and have a 33" vanity and a 5" high vessel then all the sudden you have a sink rim at 38" or even 41" on a full height vanity.

It sounds silly but people DO make this error. If you know you are getting a vessel sink from the get-go and get a low vanity, or a custom vanity to compensate for the height, great.

But many people pick an off the shelf vanity at 33"-- and then decide later that they will try a vessel sink. Then they wonder why their elbows are up around their neck when they are used to bending. If you can think in dimension, that's great. A lot of people need to see it in person to understand. This company will send you samples of the glass and I'd suggest doing that if you can't find a plumbing store or a design center that carries them.

You can read about the special glass these sinks are made from. They are also used in the kitchen and can withstand boiling water. A really nice benefit is that the the clear sink allows light from above to light the contents of the cabinet below the sink. There are many colors to choose from. I love my sink and it's the thing that makes most people say "WOW!

Here is a link that might be useful: Oceana Glass Sinks. We went with undermount. Decorative vessels are pretty but in a master bath they are impractical - they break up the space on the counter, reduce space to put things down, and tend to be flatter, causing a lot of splash. They also can be fragile if you drop something like a hair dryer around them. I also saw larger, white porcelain vessels, which were either square with sloped sides or large, flat rectangles.

These eat up all the counter space and I thought they looked heavy and industrial. The undermount is less obvious, emphasis on the aesthetic around the sink rather than the sink itself.

Regarding the posters who said that the vessel woudl be higher, that may be true but you can also have higher counters on your vanity to compensate for the undermounted sink. I will probably go with a vessel when we re-do our powder room but I am happy with the choice of undermount in the master. If you do not plan for a vessel sink then the vessel sink will definitely be too high for many people.

We originally wanted an undermount but loved the look of a vessel sink. Our vanity height was 33" so we decided to recess the vessel sink so it would not be too high. It is 36" to the top edge of the sink and it a perfect height for us. It is extremely easy to clean and is not "splashy" at all. Vessel, undermount, flush mount, partial mount - in any case, the top of the sinks are now closer to 36". Our s undermount sink top is only 30" tall and I hate it.

All of our new vessel sinks are installed at the 36" height. The countertop, vanity are adjusted accordingly. I dont find the splashing to be any less or any more. You need to get into a habit of wiping up the counter after a splashy use for both vessels and undermounts.

Obviously you're insensative to it, because you're not short and have never had to deal with it. Standard counter height for vanities and cabinets is 31 - 34 inches, add another inches or more for some of the vessel sinks and they are OBVIOUSLY hard to use for people who are not taller, including kids and elderly! I don't understand about undermount sinks providing more counter space. The profile of the sink is the same whether it sits on top or below.

One thing not mentioned is the vessel sink gives you more space inside the vanity. You can have a usable drawer under the sink if you leave a channel in the middle for the pipe. Another benefit is you can easily change out a vessel sink to change the look of your bath which you can't do with an undermount. One compromise might be a sink that's partially inset into the vanity, but that's not easily changed. I also look at them as jewelry for your vanity.

A countertop with Under Vanity Storage Drawer Yoga a set in sink has no focal point. It's just a plain slab when viewed. I think a vessel sink adds interest to it, and adds another level of decor to the bath. We have a combination of vessels, undermounts, drop-ins and semi-recessed vessels in our house, and I use all of the sinks regularly.

There DO seem to be a lot of myths out there regarding vessel sinks! Because the area of countertop that 'can' get splashed is not directly at the edge of the sink, so you don't get that little line of crud where sink meets countertop.

But - if you have hair shavings or trimmings outside the sink, those would have to be swept off the countertop rather than simply down the sink. Probably better for your plumbing anyway.

Good sink-sizing will help with shavings. I'm sure some of them will be -- the ones that aren't really good-looking will still be not-so-great-looking 10 years from now, and then they'll also be 10 years old and still very visible simply due to their location. But the gorgeous ones will still be gorgeous! Like every other design trend, the really good ones will age better than the marginal ones. And no one's even mentioned this!

Many faucets will not work well with a vessel sink. The handles for deck-mounts need to be located in such a way that they're still easy to reach. Wall-mount faucets tend to be more expensive, and if there's a plumbing problem, much harder to detect before major damage has been done, and much harder to repair. Any unprotected exposed edges will be likelier to break than undermount sinks. Of course, replacing a vessel sink is also a much easier endeavor than replacing an undermount.

And if the vessel is a 'drain hole only' mount, you can replace it with virtually any other vessel sink. You aren't tied to that one undermount dimension forever. More Counter Space? I know math can be a hard subject for many, but doesn't this entirely depend on the size of the sink?

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