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stanley-wood-plane-set-down Find great deals on eBay for stanley plane set. Shop with confidence.  7S0PONSOARPA7EEDUJFJ SKpYoVVnsWNoAredXMA. Goodell Gage Plane - Pre- Stanley Auto Setting Plane. Pre-Owned. C $ Top Rated Seller. Top Rated Seller. or Best Offer. From United States. Hand Plane Restorations: Vintage Stanley planes are great restoration projects. They can be found in all manners of deterioration, and often come at a very reasonable price. Antique Tools. Old Tools. Woodworking Planes. Woodworking Tools. Vintage Ads.  One set of extensions without rod. The wood has some minor spiral shrinkage checking, but is solid and not cracked. Stanley Plane. Woodworking Hand Tools. Great Expectations. Fenton Glass. Carnival Glass. Plane Iron or Cutter - The Stanley Plane Iron or Cutter was made from the finest steel available for this type of cutting tool. Steel for the cutters was made to their specifications and was tested in their laboratories before being used in production. The Cutters were laboratory tested for ability to hold their cutting edge, fineness of tempter, quality of hardness and for length of service to be expected.  Adjustments - The finest adjustments can be made and held. Up and down adjustments are made by the large thumb nut and lever. The sidewise adjustments are made by a lever and a compensating roller. Adjustment of the frog to obtain different widths of the mouth was made with a screw.

This plane is identical to the 80described in an earlier posting, except that this model has a spur for scoring the grain before the cutter cuts the wood. Like the 80 rabbet, these planes are difficult to find without modification. The spur is dovetailed into the right side of the steel casing. This same means of attachment is commonly used on the wooden rabbet planes contemporary with this plane.

The spur is removed for sharpening or adjusted downward by tapping it at its top. Often, the steel casing stanley wood plane set down above the spur will be munged stanley wood plane set down a result of jamming a screwdriver, or similar tool, above the spur and twisting stanley wood plane set down. On this model, the steel casing has an extra screw on the spur side so that the casing won't distort around the spur.

The image here shows how the original mouth should look. Most examples have their mouths filed with an arch-shape opening to allow freer passage of the shaving. See the 80 rabbet plane for a view of what the mouth looks like on the other side. This is the first in a series of so-called cabinetmaker's rabbet planes, and is the rightmost one in the image the larger planes are pictured to show the details of the text.

They were advertised as being "designed for fine Cabinet Work where extreme accuracy is required. They all are cast iron, with full nickel plating. The amount of original nickel plating that remains on these planes has a tremendous effect on their value, stanley wood plane set down has absolutely no effect on their use. The sides are ground flat and, supposedly, square to the bottom. All the planes in the series have the "HAND-Y" grip feature, like that on the block planes, milled into their sides to allow for a more comfortable grip.

They can be used either right or left handed. Each plane's sole is of a two-section construction - one section forms the toe of the sole, and the other forms the heel of the sole.

The toe section sits atop, and slides over, the heel section, and stanley wood plane set down they are secured by means of a large slotted screw. This screw is loosened to adjust the plane's mouth by sliding the toe section over the heel section, and then tightening the screw. Through repeated use, this screw can become mangled, so check for that.

Also, check the area of the casting where this screw threads into the heel section as it's prone to cracking, which is impossible to see without taking the plane apart, and even with it apart a crack can be difficult to detect. Check where the screw butts against the toe section for any signs of stress cracks that may result from over tightening the screw. The toe section can be removed completely from the plane so that it can be used as a chisel plane. Stanley, in their tool propoganda, claimed that with the plane configured as a chisel plane it was useful for the removal of dried glue.

There are better ways to remove that than to use this plane. However, the plane does function nicely as a chisel plane and is particularly useful when working rabbeted frames, where the stiles and rails join.

The planes are a lot less costly than the dedicated chisel plane that the company made, the Inside the toe section is a little set screw, oriented parallel to the sole, that can be set to regulate the mouth's opening. This set screw is only accessible stanley wood plane set down the plane is apart.

It butts up against the larger slotted screw used to hold the two sections together. This little set screw is what keeps the mouth constant, to a pre-set width, as the two sections are screwed together. This capability to maintain the mouth's opening is a handy feature to have, though it is by no means mandatory, for the times that the toe section is removed, either to hone the iron or to use the tool as a chisel plane.

The set screw oftentimes is seized into the toe casting, which is something you won't be able to tell unless you carry along stanley wood plane set down small screwdriver to disassemble the plane before you buy it. If the set screw is seized, don't try to free it without first letting it soak with some penetrating oil - the slot for the screwdriver may snap off, if you're impatient, leaving you a fine mess to solve.

If you're having trouble closing the mouth of the tool, you have to drive the set screw deeper into the casting since it's stanley wood plane set down the toe section sliding farther back over the heel section as the set screw is butting against the larger slotted screw that secures the two sections together.

Some guys just removed the set screw from the plane since they mustn't have liked screwing with so many stanley wood plane set down. The plane's cutter is sorta spade-shaped the shovel kind.

It is pitched at roughly 20 degrees, with its two edges perpendicular to the cutting edge being chamfered. The cutter is as wide as the plane is over the length of the plane's bed, where it abrubtly diminishes to a constant width as it extends stanley wood plane set down the plane's body, poking out at the heel of the plane.

The cutter is removed from the plane through the mouth whenever stanley wood plane set down or honing is required. A large, knurled adjusting screw protrudes from the heel of the plane. This screw activates a mechanism like that found on the 60 's series of block planes; i. Together, the sliding section and the inclined plane form a sort of tongue and groove so that the sliding section doesn't become misaligned as it moves over the inclined plane. The stanley wood plane set down section has a small nib on it that engages machined grooves in the cutter's backside.

The adjusting screw on the older models is larger and somewhat cruder than on the later models as it's a cast piece. On the later models, it's sometimes difficult to tell whether the plane is American-made or English-made. The cutter, at its top, is stamped with the plane's origin. It's often hard to read the origin unless the plane is taken apart. The larger rabbet planes of this series have their country of manufacture stamped on the circular disk at the toe see stanley wood plane set down for more about this disk as well as on their cutter.

The earliest models of the plane have the patent date stamped into the iron. These planes, despite Stanley's claim that they are machined accurately, are sometimes not so. They were offered as premium planes in direct competition with the products made by Norris, et al, in England.

If you are hankering to own an affordable better-quality rabbet plane, these Stanley products are certainly that, but they are no match surprise to the English products. Stanley made these planes general purpose so that they can be used as regular rabbet planes, chisel planes, and shoulder planes.

Their cutters are pitched lower than might be expected for rabbeting so that they can be used as shoulder planes. The English designed two distinct planes for these tasks, with each particularly suited for the tasks. However, the English versions, despite their functional and visual superiority over the Stanley versions, are considered very expensive by most in the user community, making the Stanley products an affordable alternative.

When buying these planes, it's good to carry along a small machinist's square to test them for truth. Also, check the mouth to make sure that it hasn't been tampered with like filed and that it is a uniform width across its length. Make sure that it isn't chipped, especially at the corners, as they sometimes are, or that it shows any signs of stress cracking.

Inspect the area where the two sections mate, along its entire length, for this is another area that seems to suffer stress cracks or broken chunks off the toe section. Sight along the plane's sole to check that stanley wood plane set down toe section is aligned with the heel section. I've seen far too many examples of these planes where they are not aligned due to sloppy machining. This problem appears to be found more often on the later and larger 929394 examples of these planes.

By far, the most common damage that any of these style planes can suffer is found on their lever caps. The lever cap is secured in place by turning a small slotted cap screw, with a screwdriver, which causes the lever cap to place pressure on a bridge that spans the inside width of the heel section. Since the lever caps are rather long in relation to their thickness, it's very easy for them to snap stanley wood plane set down two.

This damage is usually unseen, unless the plane is completely taken apart. Often, the break is welded and ground flat. The repair, if done well, has no effect on the plane's use, but a collector will head for the hills should one be waved under his nose. All the above applies to each of these rabbet planes, up to the 94 inclusive. This model of the plane was the most stanley wood plane set down in the series, as judged by its long production, and was the first in the series to be offered by Stanley.

It seems as though Stanley was testing the waters before they took the plunge to make the longer planes. The first model of this plane doesn't have its number embossed anywhere on it, but eventually the number was embossed at the top, toward the toe.

A copy of the plane, and its two larger brothers, is still made in England. Just when I go and say all the above applies to everything that follows, Stanley decides to offer this little oddball. It's basically the same plane as the 90except that it's different hohoho! Hell, one might assume that this one is aluminum, if one followed Stanley's numbering scheme. But no, this one ain't aluminum. It appears that Stanley had enough sense to never introduce that metal to this style of plane.

What sets this plane apart from the 90 is that its body is a one-piece construction. It is a bullnose rabbet plane, but there is no provision to adjust its mouth like the two section It has a similar, but different, blade adjusting mechanism - a knurled nut engages a single slot in the cutter, which is a cheaper mechanism than that provided on the The nut is stamped "No. The lever cap isn't captive to the plane; you can remove it completely from the plane, which must be done to remove the iron.

The lever cap has a small locking wheel beneath the area where you rest your palm. This wheel, when turned, places pressure directly below on the Wood River Plane Setup 2020 iron, and forces the lever cap upward against the main casting this style of lever cap is common on the English-made rabbet and shoulder planes. Check that the lever cap hasn't been brazed, cracked, or chipped.

Be sure to look where the locking wheel stanley wood plane set down into the lever cap's casting for any signs of damage. Lastly, check that the lever cap's little 'peak', where it engages the main casting, isn't chipped or broken. These planes were never popular over here, and the war helped to speed its death.

As a result, they are very rare. Afterall, why would someone purchase a non-adjustable rabbet plane, when the 90 offered the same function, but with more bells and whistles? Certainly not too many would, which accounts for its scarcity. Even the glitzy nickel plating of the thing couldn't boost sales.

This plane is identical to the 90Aexcept with two differences. There is no blade adjusting mechanism other than the dexterity of your hands. The plane's top is japanned, with its sides polished.

#90 Steel cased rabbet plane, 9"L, 1 1/2"W, 2 5/8lbs, * This plane is identical to the #80, described in an earlier posting, except that this model has a spur for scoring the grain before the cutter cuts the www.- the #80 rabbet, these planes are difficult to find without modification. Fortunately a couple of good tool manufacturers have come out with nice block planes. WoodRiver made a replica of the Stanley No. 65 low angle block plane (pictured above), which runs about $ (find it here). I own the WoodRiver low angle block plane and the vintage Stanley No. 65 block plane, so I’ve had a chance to compare them. Feb 16,  · Regardless of whether the plane is bevel up or bevel down, the angle of the frog face (upon which the iron sits) is an important determining factor in determining the desired bevel angle. As stated above, the vast majority of bench planes have frogs with a 45º bed, meaning the cutting iron sits at a 45 degree angle from the work surface.

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