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small-wood-projects-with-scrap-wood-company We have sealed the gaps and much of the area is covered by a rug and sofa. I am nervous of doing this as flat is quite enclosed, its quite a large area and am semi abled, but cant afford to get professionals in, or new flooring! Hope that helps and we would love to see some before and after photos — Sam. Wooden boxes look like they are very easy to make because they appear to be plain and straightforward. With a bit of practise and sharp scrapers, it comes off right back to the wood in a few small wood projects with scrap wood company.

What wood you are applying it too and how you are going to prepare the wood. I would like a matte or semi matte finish. Many thanks for any advice. To start you could carry out an oil test, this is simply putting a small drop of oil vegetable or olive oil from the kitchen cupboard will do onto the surface for an hour to see how it reacts. If it remains unmoved on the surface you have a varnish or lacquer that will prevent oil from being absorbed. If the oil moves or soaks in then you have an oil or a wax on there, this will help to determine what product you will be able to use once clean.

Bare in mind that if you have oil or wax on the surface, the White Spirit may remove some of this. So from this point, if you have established what product is on the cabinet and it is clean, then you can choose Fiddes Hard Wax Oil if you have an oil or bare surface, or Manns Extra Tough Interior Varnish if you have a varnished surface.

But always try a test area first with either product to ensure that you like the finish that you are going to achieve. And please do not hesitate to get in touch if you have any further questions. Hi I have a coffee table with some stains on. I need to know if I should strip it back and re colour if so what should I get Or if I can get the stains out? Any advice would be most welcome! There is a small test that you can do which will help to establish the type of seal that you have on the table.

If you put a small drop of oil vegetable or olive from the kitchen cupboard will do on the surface of the table and leave it for around and hour. When you have done this feel free to email me for further advice at wood finishes.

Hi Sam I have been reading through some of your interesting blogs, but I can not seem to find quite the correct item to use. At present I have given up as it is just so hard to get off. Is there anything that can take this stuff off with not too much grief.

Hope you can help. We have two very good strippers that you could have a look at and I would recommend test areas first with both or either products that you use. The first is Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover which is a quicker, although somewhat messier treatment that should make the paint bubble up to be scraped off. The alternative is Peelaway Sample Pack , which is a poultice that you leave on for hours and then peel away with the paint.

I hope that helps and good luck with your project. Please let me know if you have any other questions. I want to clear varnish eventually to highlight the grain but am having trouble removing this dark looking stuff.

Would a solvent paint stripper do the job? Cheers Kerry. Thank you for your inquiry. There are a couple of strippers that you could try. The Peelaway 1 is the one you want to try as this is designed for use on older paints.

It is important to do a test area first. This is a poultice which you leave on that is slightly less messy than the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover. The Paint Panther is designed to work in a matter of minutes, making the paint bubble up to be scraped off with a Filler Knife.

Again a test area should be done. I hope this helps and please let me know if you have any further questions. I have an old wooden ammo box with rope handles. It has been painted blue with sunflowers. What is best way to remove the paint and get it back to its original wood color. Not sure what kind of wood it is. There are a couple of products that you could have a look at.

The first is the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover , which will work with in minutes, making the paint bubble up to be scraped off with a Filler Knife. Or you could have a look at the Peelaway 1 and 7 Sample Twin Pack , which is a poultice that you leave on for hours and then peel off. Be aware that the Peelaway 1 is not suitable for use on Oak or Mahogany hard woods generally as it can burn the wood.

Test areas are vital with a project like this, please let me know if you need any further advice. Hi, I have just purchased a house with lots of wooden beams in the ceilings. Would peelaway 7 take just the paint off but leave the varnish? There is no easy solution to this as what ever stripper you use it is likely to remover both products. It may be worth trying to scrub the paint away with a scourer or rough brush, but take care not to damage the varnish. I am sorry I could not be of more help with your inquiry.

I have stripped back a window frame using a heat gun and was intending to use a nitromorse equivalent with wire wool to remove the remnants. The Peelaway 1 is ideal for older and lead based paint removal, however it is not suitable for oak or mahogany wood as it will burn it.

And as you have used a previous product it would be advisable to carry out a test area to ensure there is no adverse reaction. The PeelAway Sample Pack may be enough if you only have a small area that needs treating. I hope this helps and please do let me know if you have any further questions. I have the Nils chair from Ikea. The legs are birch wood painted with black acrylic paint. Can you recommend a non-toxic stripper????

Also a blue dye or stain? I want the new color to be dark blue but still be able to see the wood if that makes a bit of sense! Thank you for your inquiry, you could have a look at the PeelAway 7 Paint Remover , which is a poultice that you can apply to the wood and leave for around 24 hours and then Peelaway the paper removing the paint at the same time.

It is ideal for removing modern paint with the least amount of mess. I would strongly recommend a small test area first in an inconspicuous area to ensure there is no adverse reaction.

For the colour you could have a look at our Manns Classic Wood Dye , which can be mixed with other colours within the range to darken or add water to lighten. The one other alternative on our website would be the Osmo Country Colour , which is a colour and treatment in one and there are a couple of Blues in this range.

Hi Sam I have this problem, I bought a antique bed frame. It has ,I think Douglas fir hardwood I bought paint remover from cloverdale paints it is called , that did not work. On the flat places I used a belt sander and it came off so easy. It has lots of round spindles which I can sand.

What do you recommend. I am pulling my hair out. Can you tell me which Peelaway you used and for how long you left it on? The Peelaway 1 Paint Remover is the one that we tend to recommend as this is designed for use on older paints, it can deal with a number of layers, and rarely fails.

Test area should show how long you need to leave the poultice on for and sometimes two applications are needed for complete removal. If this or a number of others are not working for you then I am afraid the only solution would be sanding. Let me know how you get on or if you have any other questions — Sam.

There are so many layers of paint on the door frames, cream on top, several areas coming up green, black, yellow underneath!

We have used a paint gun to remove the paint quite easily, with some areas coming up quite sticky. How do we resolve the stickniess? And what is the best way to finish it planning on re-painting. Also one of the frames came up as green wood, is that normal?

Thanks Karen. We nearly always advise Peelaway Paint Remover for situations like this, usually Peelaway 1. This is an effective stripper for built up paint. What to use once the old paint is cleared will depend on the look and protection that you are hoping to achieve, but if you would like to let me know I will be happy to make some suggestions for you.

I am not sure what the green wood could be, but you are welcome to send in some images to wood finishes. We have stripped an old oak filing cabinet back to bare wood using both a chemical stripper and sanding. Both methods have left residual paint in the oak grain which we cannot get out, despite using both a wire brush and wire wool. Is there a way of removing this without sanding another millimetre off? There are also some ink stains on the wood — how can these be removed? Can I ask you to email me with details of which stripper you used?

I may be able to advise a more effective product for you to try. Our email is wood finishes. I have wood between and that was painted over the stain or varnish. Would a chemical work for that? Or do I do heat gun then chemical? You could look at trying Peelaway Sample Pack. The Peelaway 1 is the one that is likely to be your best option. It is designed to be used on paints and varnishes that are older then 30 years. I strongly recommend a test area of this product it will guide you as to how long you will need to leave the Peelaway poultice on the wood.

It may even require two applications. But this should help you considerably with getting back to bare wood. Please let me know if there is anything else I can help with.

Hi Sam, we have a Potton House built in which has dark brown beams throughout the house. To be perfectly honest I have no idea whether they have been painted or stained but would like to make the lighter. Can you recommend a product to do this?

Thank you. The first thing to do would be to establish what has been used to make the beams black. Before you do any thing it is worth giving the beams a scrub with warm water, and then if that has no effect try White Spirit it may be that there is just a stain on the wood and this will help you to tell. As it is a relatively modern house then it may be a paint or Varnish which can be removed with modern strippers. We have sample sizes of our Peelaway Products which would be worth trying first.

The last option that I can suggest is to try sanding back an area to see how easy it is too remove this way. Do let me know how you get on and if you have any more questions — Sam. I am planning on painting some of my wooden furnishings a table, some shelves etc white, but was wondering if these techniques would work incase I wanted to return the furniture to their original wood?

Removal of the paint will depend a little on the paint that you are using. Always do a test area first. If this is not possible could you advise me of a best option. This is a stripper that will make the paint kind of bubble up so that it can be scrapped off.

It can remove a number of layers in short space of time, but always try a test area first — Sam. Panther Paint and Varnish Remover is a great remover. My son painted wooden table in our backyard. It was a disaster! I managed to remove it. Thank you for sharing such an useful information! Best regards! Hi, I have an old chest of drawers that has been painted with gloss paint. My Mim originally did this in the late 60s, early seventies but did then subsequently repainted it over the years so there will be some 40 odd years old paint underneath modern, which product would you recommend to strip it?

Would really appreciate you advice. Thank you for your enquiry, we have 2 products that you could try, the first is Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover , which makes paints and varnishes bubble up so that you can scrap them off with a Filler Knife. This is a little messy but a quicker option. The alternative is the Peelaway Sample Pack. I hope this helps and if you have any further questions please let me know.

And we always love to see before and after photos if you get chance to send some. I have asbestos cement guttering which has very bad peeling paint. I have read that it is best to use paint stripper to remove the old paint avoid sanding or anything that could cause dust.

Is there a type of paint remover you would recommend for this type of work? I would recommend finding an expert in that field and getting their input. I have an old church pew that is in really bad condition…. We have a couple of products that you could use to strip the varnish off of the wood, which one you use will depend on how old the varnish is and how quick you would like to work.

If you think that the varnish is over around 30 years old you may want to consider Peelaway 1 Paint Remover to use, however it is not suitable to use on woods such as Oak or Mahogany it has been know to stain these woods.

Peelaway 7 Paint Remover is a suitable for use on all woods with more modern paint or varnish on. The other alternative is the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover which is a gel like substance that you can leave on for around 5 mins and you will then be able to scrap off the varnish.

A little more messy but can be effective. Once you have managed to remove all previous product you will probably need to sand the pew as well, to get a smooth even finish. If you would like any further information or advice on what to treat the Pew with once you have stripped it just let me know — Sam. I have a wooden-floored hall modern pine — bout s build which used to have lino stuck to it.

The lino had to be ripped up cos it tore and over the years the glue has obviously seeped into the bare wood. I then spilt gloss from painting doors on to the wood which got stuck in wheelchair wheels and spread around hall in my panic to get to the bathroom. Now that has seeped in too. Have tried hand sander with medium to 36grit but to little effect. I am nervous of doing this as flat is quite enclosed, its quite a large area and am semi abled, but cant afford to get professionals in, or new flooring!

My apologies for the delay in getting back to you but I needed to speak to our flooring expert for advice on your inquiry.

There is not a product that will effectively remove the resin that is left from the Lino. Our expert has said that the only truly effective way to remove it is with some elbow grease and a scraper. The paint however is a different matter, I would recommend the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover which is like a gel that you leave on the paint for around 5 minutes and it will then scrap away easily. Thank you for your very informative and interesting post. I am currently getting the walls in my flat repainted and I have large old Victorian sash windows which my decorator says are covered in quite a few layers of paint.

I am hoping to strip them back and paint them myself as I am told it is more time consuming than difficult and my decorator charges a lot per window so would like to keep costs down. Can you recommend which products and method would be best suited to what I want to do? I want to re paint then windows and frames in farrow and ball egshell paint. Will taking all the layers of paint off only to repainted it again make a visible difference? Many thanks in advance for our advice.

You may find the Peelaway Products are the easiest to use. The age of the window paint will determine which of these 2 products that you should use but there is a sample pack containing both should you wish to test it first. It is good for detail and crevices that can be difficult to work on.

The only wood that you can use it on is Oak or mahogany as it may stain these, if you have this wood then an alternative product would be the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover. This is a quicker but slightly more messy option. Again a test area would be required. Hope that helps and we would love to see some before and after photos — Sam. Great tips! Thank you so much for sharing this. It makes it less intimidating when thinking about working on a project like this. Greetings from Florida!

Anyhow, fantastic blog! I have an antique hutch that was painted white. I am trying to strip. I have used Citristrip with great success until now. I have almost finished it but have some places that are really stubborn. What would you recommend to use on these patches. It could be worth you trying the Peelaway 1 or 7 This is a poultice that you leave on for up to 48 hours.

The Peelaway 1 is for paints that are older than 30 years and the Peelaway 7 is for more modern paints. A test area will give an idea of which to use and how long you will need to use it for. Hi, I have a deck that a friend of mine built for me about 3 years ago. I live in Colorado so I need a good outdoor paint with the snow, rain and heat.

Any advice? But if you can find Cuprinol products over there you could try Cuprinol Stain Stripper or just spend a bit of time sanding it back to bare wood. I appreciate it can be a hassle to sand decking but when you have done it, you can apply an Oil based treatment that will be easier to maintain and look after from then on.

I hope you manage to achieve what you are looking for — Sam. I live in a timber framed terrace built late s which has a lovely curved beam in the bedroom wall.

It has been painted many times I suspect! I would like to uncover the wood but not sure what is best to try — do I go for something like Peelaway? Or is that likely to damage the wood. It is a very rough old beam so lots of paint in the cracks and I would be worried about using a scraper I think?

Would be grateful for any advice, thankyou. Thank you for your inquiry, it is important in your situation that you do some test areas first. I would advise Peelaway but the Peelaway 1 can stain Oak, which is potentually what your beams are made of, but is more suited to layers of paint that could be older than around 30 years. We do a sample pack which contains both PeelAway 1 and 7 Sample Twin Pack for you to try first to give you an idea of how effective it will be for your project.

I hope that helps and if you have any more questions please let me know — Sam. I am familiar with Nitromors and know it to work well with many products, however I can recommend a couple of alternatives to consider and would strongly recommend that a test area is done with which ever product you choose. It is worth reading on our website how each product works to see if you prefer one method over another.

Unfortunately paint stripping can be a messy process which ever product you use, and on rare occasions you may need to do 2 applications. Once you do manage to remove all the product then the Osmo Polyx Oil is ideal for you Oak door.

It will enhance the grain and natural beauty of the wood and slightly darken the wood wiping a damp cloth over the bare wood will give you an indication of the darkening. Hi, just wondering if anyone can help… We just finished our sunroom, the ceiling was beautiful pine with lots of knots. I had it painted white shellac on the knots, 2 coats of primer, 2 coats of paint. I hate it and want to take it off.

The painting has just been done this week. Can anything be done to restore my ceiling to the way it used to look post construction? Thanks for your suggestions. You will need to use a paint stripper to get all of those layers off. We have two very good ones that are worth considering the first is the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover. This is a gel that you can leave on for around 5 minutes and then scrap off. The alternative is the Peelaway 7. Both are viable options for you it just depends on which method you prefer, its worth having a look at the products and seeing how they work and always do a test area.

Thank you for your inquiry, there are to products that we recommend for paint and varnish removal. This is a gel that you apply for around mins and then the gel and paint can be scrapped away. For stubborn areas you may be required to re apply. An alternative product that can be easier to use on areas that have intricate detail or if you have more time is the PeelAway 1 and 7 Sample Twin Pack.

This is a poultice that you leave on for 48 hour depending on test area indications and then peel away the blanket and remove all layers of paint.

Test areas are strongly recommended with both these products. I have just had a cat knock a can of emulsion all other our brand new wooden oak floor. We have managed to get all the excess up. However what is left has stained the flooring and some parts quite deep although the floor was varnished and finished professionally. Hello Andrew, Apologies in the delay in getting back to you, I have asked our in house experts if the had any advise on this one.

Both said to start by trying to scrub with water first, or even soapy water. If the emulsion is water based it may well start to come of.

You would need to sand back to area as best you can with minimal effect to the varnish. Any damage that occurs on the Varnish can be repaired and we have a useful Blog on how to deal with this. Hi I need to paint my wooden gareage door, however the paint whioch was done about years ago has bubled and in places and has now peeled away. How do I remove ready for repainting with Ronseal 10 year exterior Many thanks. The easiest way to remove old paint, if it is peeling, is to use a pressure washer.

This should remove most of the paint. This is a gel that will make the paint bubble up to be scrapped off. Once you have removed all the paint, your garage door will be ready for repainting with an exterior wood paint such as Ronseal 10 Year Weatherproof Wood Paint — Gloss.

We would love to see some photos of the before and after of your garage door if you have time to send us some!! Many Thanks -Sam. We have a couple of good quality removers, the first being the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover , which is a gel that you leave on for around 5 minutes and it makes the paint bubble up making it easy to scrap off, this is probably more suitable if you need to be able to use the stairs.

Once you have removed all the paint you may want to give the stairs a light sand, but if the wood is in good condition just make sure it is clean and smooth and then you can apply your finishing coat. We have a wide range of Varnishes that you can use on the stairs and I would recommend the Manns Extra Tough Floor Varnish , which is a durable and protective Varnish that will last really well.

And it comes in a number of sheen levels and is non yellowing. The cart is oak and has been painted gray. Looks like they are stained into the wood. I am not able to get all of the brushed on paint off by scraping.

What should I use to remove the brushed on paint without taking off the original marking? The Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover is a gel designed to make the paint bubble up so it can be scrapped off, I would try this one first as it is a 5 minute treatment. I would re iterate that a small test area with these products to see if the do have an effect on the markings underneath.

Hi there I just got myself a Victorian hall chair in an auction and I want to restore the wood finish. I would like to strip it back to a uniform colour and wax it. Can you advise? Its worth trying a couple of Small Scrap Wood Projects Inc things to see what the product is that is on the chair. Firstly you could do an Oil test, this can be done with a few drops of Olive oil or Vegetable oil out of the kitchen cupboard. Leave the drops on the wood for about an hour, if it unmoved after that time it is probable that you have a seal such as a Varnish on there.

If it soaks in even just a little then it may be a Wax or Oil on the chair which can be removed with some White Spirit and then given a light sand in preperation for a new treatment. Once you are back to bare wood, if you want to wax it then the Fiddes Supreme Wax Polish is a good option for restoring character and dries in about 10 mins. I wonder if you could advise me before I set out on this. We have been renting out our cottage in the countryside that has beautiful original features.

The rooms have been transformed with a very haphazard application of lilac and lime green emulsion — beams included! We would like to restore the rooms to their former glory. Is there a good way to strip back just the emulsion; we were happy with the black finish or do we need to take it all off? Oh dear, lilac and lime green does not sound like and attractive combination on your beams. We have a couple of removal products that can be used to strip back the paint but I would be worried that the Black treatment that is underneath may be affected as well.

So the first thing to try is to score the emulsion and then get some steam to it. If you do find that you need to use a stripper then there are two options the first is the Paint Panther Paint and Varnish Remover. This product is designed to make the paint bubble up so that you can scrap it off or there is the PeelAway 7 Paint Remover , which is a paste like consistency and you leave on for a period of up to 48 hours and then peelaway the all the layers in one go.

You would need to do a test area with both of these product to get an idea firstly of how long you would need to leave them on for and secondly how effective the will be on the Emulsion and the Black treatment that is underneath. Minwax Design Series washes, wood effects and waxes offer new options for bare wood and wood that's already stained.

Combine the Minwax Design Series with other Minwax stains to produce on-trend looks, finishes and special effects. For superior durability and long-lasting beauty, the choice is clear — protective clear finishes from Minwax! Proper Wood Preparation The better the wood preparation, the better the end result. Get off to a good start with your wood project.

Where to Work. Temperature and humidity All wood finishing products depend on evaporation during the drying process. Ventilation During the evaporation and drying process, products emit fumes that need to be dispersed. Top 5 Tips. Sanding is a critical step in the wood preparation process for several reasons.

Choosing a Repair Product. Sanding Tips. It is most often used when refinishing floors or refitting doors and windows. Medium sandpaper grit and grit is ideal for removing shallow scratches, dents and rough edges that could cause splinters. Either of these two grits is often used for a first sanding of most wood projects.

Fine sandpaper grit is used for a second sanding. It will remove any scratches left by the medium sandpaper and will eliminate any remaining loose fibers in the wood. After this second sanding, the wood is ready for a stain or clear protective finish to be applied. Capturing dust Dust is the enemy of a smooth finish. Choosing the right sander For small, intricate wood projects, sanding by hand is best.

Use a Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Prevent streaks and blotches Wood rarely absorbs stain evenly. See the difference. Where to Use a Sanding Sealer. How To. Expert Tips. For an Extra Smooth Finish: A sanding sealer can be used on bare, unstained floors, doors, furniture and cabinets prior to applying either an oil-based or a water-based clear finish.

It is designed as a base coat that will dry quickly, seal the pores, and sand easily with fine sandpaper to create an ultra-smooth foundation. A sanding sealer is not the same as a wood conditioner.

Whereas a wood conditioner is a pre-stain treatment that reduces blotchiness when staining, a sanding sealer is applied only to bare wood that is not going to be stained. Learn More. The Golden Ratio is a great trick to know about to make sure your projects have pleasing proportions. Mitered corners can be weak, thanks to the end grain to end grain nature of the joint.

In addition to adding strength, a spline can become a significant design element. Be sure to check out the WoodWorkers Guild of America web page for more information on joinery, and how to use a router. How to Make a Spline Jig. Reinforcing Mitered Corners With a Spline. Click here to cancel reply. I have been recycling or upcycling wood for years. It began when I was a beginner and made toys from construction scrap.

A lot of older furniture is made from oak, or maple, or walnut. Old oak dresser drawers work great for boxes like those in the video. A couple of years back, and unfinished furniture company went out of business. I asked if I could have their scraps; I got all I could load into my truck.

Trust me, you can make a lot more than little boxes with salvaged wood. George Vondriska demonstrates how to use an Epilog laser engraver to etch text and pictures on items in your woodworking workshop. Laser Engraver provided by Epilog Laser.

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