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sharpening-pfeil-gouges-90 If you look watch sharpening pfeil gouges 90 the wood comes over the various parts of the bowl gouge edge you can see how rotating the tool even slightly can change how the wood comes across the tip. Dale, I took a work shop with both Stuart and Sharpeniing some years back. See, we all have to do what works best for us. I don't sharpening pfeil gouges 90 any, and I don't have an accurate angle measuring device that could tell me. From their opinions I have found angles that work best for me. Don't know if you've ever seen the Stewart Batty Mike Mahoney battle but it's hilarious and very informative. One of my new Pfeil gouges was a 14mm spoon gouge that had a wavy edge.

Remember me. Log in. Forgot password or user name? Pfeil Gouge Bevel Angle. Posts Latest Activity Photos. Page of 1. Filtered by:. Previous template Next. Anyone know the bevel angle of most Pfeil gouges? I don't own any, and I don't have an accurate angle measuring device that could tell me.

My Flexcut gouges appear to be around 5 to 10 degrees Also, any suggestions on what to use to measure the angle of a bevel? Tags: None. Re: Pfeil Gouge Bevel Angle Claude, back some time ago there was a discussion here that talked about the Pfeil bevel being degrees. Henry Taylor vs. Just a simple thin metal disc with 7 notches measuring between 15 degrees to 45 degrees in 5 degree increments Cheers OG.

Originally posted by Claude View Post. Comment Post Cancel. While sharpening some new tools this week, I checked the bevel angle of some Pfeil gouges. Most were close to 20 degrees, a couple a shade under 20 degrees, and only a couple as steep as 25 degrees. One of my new Pfeil gouges was a 14mm spoon gouge that had a wavy edge. Pfeil does a really good job of sharpening their tools, so I was surprised to find a "bad" one. I can sharpen most of my tools, and have reshaped some with bad edges, but spoon gouges are pretty tricky.

If you mess it up, it gets narrower every time you re-grind it. So, I called Woodcraft, told them my story and they shipped out a new one the same day, no questions asked.

Good tools and good folks. Great info! Jim Harmon. Most gouges have a slight bevel on the inside on top of the blade. This makes it easier to make changes in the depth of your cut.

This inside bevel as little as 5 or 10 degrees blunts the overall sharpness of your cutting edge. If you need a degree cutting Pfeil Gouges Amazon Watch edge to push through the wood you are carving, you will need either: a no inside bevel and a full 30 degrees of outside bevel, or b the degree inside bevel a degree outside bevel or any other configuration totaling 30 degrees.

But polishing in the 5 or 10 degree inside bever on a gouge with a degree outside bevel would change the gouges cutting edge to 40 degrees, overall which might be too difficult to push through the wood.

The only way to get back to an overall degree cutting edge is to reduce the outside bevel to 20 degrees. Hope this isn't something you have already covered. Re: Pfeil Gouge Bevel Angle I know this is an old thread and most of the seasoned carvers have a handle on the angles to sharpen their gouges and chisels to. I am not understanding what the angles should be as given here in this thread. There have been angles given from 20 - 30 degrees but I am just kind of thick and don't understand.

If the polished surface or underside of say a "U" shaped gouge is placed on a flat surface what angle should the shaft Sharpening Pfeil Gouges 2020 of the gouge be to the flat surface? I carve in soft woods but some I carve are rather hard and the harder woods are chewing the edges of my gouges and knives up. I know some of this is due to the fact that some of my tools are not the high dollar tools but due to fixed income they will have to do until a later day.

I plan to buy one good knife at a time until I have all of my cheaper knives replaced. I don't want to make the mistake of sharpening the good knives wrong. At this time I am using the 1 inch sanding belt for shaping and a hard felt wheel to hone, then a leather strop with jeweler's rouge.

I am very careful to not over heat the edges as I found out quickly that the edge is shot when over heated so I keep my finger close to the edge to feel the heat and dip in water every few seconds. The gouge bevel angle will determine how you stand, maneuver the tool, and how you create each cut on the lathe.

Multiple gouges each with different bevel grind angles can be utilized in different turning situations. Let me stress, the following angles are good average starting points, but we need to dig into this a little deeper. The best way to accurately measure the bevel angle of a bowl gouge is by using a protractor. After experimenting with several protractors, I decided I really like this simple steel protractor with a locking thumb screw.

Place the flat portion of the protractor base flush against the center of the bowl gouge flute. Adjust the swinging arm until it is snug up against the bevel angle. Lock the thumb screw and read the angle under the little tick mark indicator. I remember when I first got started turning wood bowls and sharpening the bowl gouge seemed straightforward.

My mentor, Danny, took the time to show me how to use the Wolverine Varigrind Jig to return a nice sharp edge to my bowl gouge. As the months went by and I turned and sharpened more and more I started getting comments from other turners during our Wednesday night turning group. My bowl turning improved and I apparently kept dropping the handle of my bowl gouge lower as I sharpened it. This action swept back the side wings dramatically.

Whoever or whatever that is? Sorry, David, I was very green then. I feel I need to make some bowing gesture to show my unworthiness. What I did know was that this gouge worked very well. I could hog out waste material aggressively and then turn around and make a beautiful bevel riding clean push cut down the supported grain wall of any bowl. Later I learned to flip the tool over and use the wings to perform shear scraping finishes on the outside of bowls.

I loved my bowl gouge. Then one day I read an article somewhere, and there was an example of my swept back bowl gouge. I got the protractor and measured my bowl gouge bevel. Oh no, what was I doing? Apparently, I had ruined my gouge with all my careless work on the grinder!

After some time at the grinder, and with a shorter tool I returned to the lathe. The gouge felt about the same, but something was different. What was it? It took awhile to realize all my body motions and positions were off just a little bit. The tool cut pretty much the same way just from a slightly different angle, because of the shifted new angle I just ground. Instead of taking some printed number as gospel, think about how you use your tools.

These are the only bowl gouges I use and need on a regular basis. If you like using a variety of different bowl gouge styles, sizes, and bevel angles, use them. Just consider how and when you use each gouge and why. I use my swept back gouges for all of the exterior and interior roughing and finishing bowl cuts. If a bowl has a deep or angled interior, I will use my secret weapon, as I like to call it, the micro-bevel gouge.

If you turn with a group of other turners, ask around and see if anyone has a bowl gouge with a bevel angle dramatically different from yours. Ask to borrow their bowl gouge. You will need to turn for a while because initially, the odd feeling may make you want to stop. Turn an entire bowl with the other gouge and see what you think. Your bowl gouge sharpening angles are vital because they dictate the way YOU stand, position yourself, move, and conform to the create bowls.

Almost any angle, within reason, on the gouge bevel will cut wood. Use what works for YOU! By using remarkably different ground bevels, you would be feeling your body making equally extreme adjustments.

The way you need to extend your arms for an interior push cut, for instance, will differ significantly. Bowl gouges with different angles are great for specific situations. I like to make inward turned rimmed bowls occasionally. And when I switch to my micro bevel, I also need to rearrange my body to accommodate the different cutting angle for that gouge. Many times because of the extremely different gouge angle, I need to stand on the opposite side of the lathe to use Pfeil Gouges Chart Zero my micro bevel.

There exists no organizing body that confirms and verifies correct bowl gouge bevel angles, and one is not needed. You only need to consider what works best for YOU. If anything, this vast range of bowl gouge sharpening angles should indicate to you that the bowl gouge is an incredibly flexible and customizable tool.

Hopefully, you can benefit from my experience. And all the experts are using what works best for them. That may or may not work well for you. With all due respect, David Ellsworth bowing motion.

They are simply sharing what works for them or what might be an average angle that will be a good starting point for someone getting started. Now question them. Why do you like them? Do they work well for the type of bowls you turn?

If so, great! Does it feel uncomfortable while turning? Perhaps a different bevel angle would change that. When you go to the grinder use precision. Carefully check the angle, your angle, you are putting on your bevel. When our family visited the Grand Canyon, our kids were young. During a ranger presentation, someone asked if they could take home some rocks.

The ranger explained that if everyone brought home just one rock, there would be no more rocks left at the Grand Canyon. Each time you return to the sharpening grinder, dramatic changes can occur over time from minor infractions. A hair raised on the tip or heel will add up much quicker than rocks leaving that hole in Arizona.

The best way to change your bowl gouge sharpening angle is gradual. Each time you return to the sharpening grinder adjust the angle a degree or so and sharpen the gouge until, after several sharpenings, you reach the desired final angle.

Keep in mind not to overheat the tool when grinding away material. Set it down and take a break as it cools. Dramatic heat changes in HSS can cause stress fractures.

You may use water to cool the high-speed steel if the metal is not excessively hot or discolored. Cooling the gouge tip frequently in water is acceptable and recommended. However, cooling an overheated gouge in water will damage the metal. While shaping or sharpening the tip of the bowl gouge should not change color. Blue or brown appearing on the end of the gouge indicate that metal has overheated.

The colored area needs to be removed. If you have a more course wheel, use it to remove material and then return to the finer course wheel to restore the sharp edge. Hopefully, I convinced you there is really no one correct answer for the bowl gouge sharpening angle. There are plenty of good suggestions and starting points, but the only correct answer is what works for you.

Please let me know if you found this post helpful. And, out of curiosity, what angle do you sharpen your bowl gouge bevels? Want to understand the bowl gouge basics, read this next. Check them out. Happy Turning , Kent. I was a novice back then, and have since forgotten everything I learned at the time. Your very clear explanations and demonstrations have been filling the void in my knowledge for the last week or so, and you are now my go-to source for my re-education.

So far my bowls have come out fine, but they take a long time and plenty of concentration to avoid catches and kickback. The basic cuts and grain angles for different wood presentations are not things I would have figured out soon on my own.

Dave, Thanks for sharing! It must be exciting to get back to turning after all these years. Happy Turning, Kent. Hi Kent, Do you have any experience using a gouge with a true convex grind? What would be the pluses and minuses of such a tool, or would it even work? Thanks — I do enjoy your channel so much! Those wings are slightly convex. The slightly convex wings allow more precise control in a smaller area, but the flat wings created with the vari-grind offer more tool area to contact.

This is very nice when you want to quickly rough out an area with a scraping cut, for example. All of it self taught with YouTube and sites like this one. So I got caught on thinking I needed a better bowl gouge grind. I read lots of articles and watched videos. So I set out to change it. I thought this was good. This weekend I finished my second bowl with the new grind. My catches and tear-out have become un-manageable.

So I started really thinking about why. But why? I have the Rikon midi. So now I will spend the next few weeks making my gouge shorter to get back to the grind I had that accidently worked. I just wanted to thank you for all the work you have put into helping others enjoy this great hobby. I just started about a year ago, and through alot of trial and error, finally managed to get a bowl turned. Through your site and you tube videos, I have finally figured out how to set up my varigrind properly.

I have no idea as to how much vaulable metal ended up of the shop floor. More than I want to admit to. I do have a question for you, do you have a preference between a standard bowl gouge or a fingernail gouge?

Is there an advantage of one over the other? I, too, was searching for answers and I know how frustrating it can be guessing for solutions at times. You are the reason I made this website!

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