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round-over-router-bit-lowes-02 Woodcraft - Special Order. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks PJmax. It has enough strength for rigidity esp when glued. Dropleaf Table.

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You could also use oak. XSleeper - OK, I am starting to second-guess the SpeedBrace every 16", they aren't that nice after all and I am afraid that they will 'hit' my legs all the time.

I might use only one on the side where the cleat will be short, not the entire depth of the desk, because it's a short wall and the desk will extend into a window opening very low, won't be an issue. SO, I am thinking of doing what you and others have suggested with a 1X2 underneath for strength and another piece in the front. I don't think polar will be strong enough for support and I saw this morning at the big orange box cherry and oak.

How are they with router? I am actually thinking of 1X3 underneath and 1X2 for the nosing. I'd use pine for the support underneath the plywood edge since it's cheaper and does offer enough support. Pine would also be strong enough for the edge of the plywood although it might dent or scar easier than hardwood.

Oak does fine with a router and would suspect cherry would too but I don't think I've ever routed any cherry. Thanks marksr. Cost is not an issue, it is minimal material talking about ft.

My desk is L shaped with a cabinet on each end. The desk is about 80" x 66" and 22" deep. The cabinets on each end are 17" wide. I have a cleat along the 2 walls and some 1x braces under the plywood to support the two 10" wall brackets. At the edge of the plywood there is a 1x under the ply and some ripped down oak flooring on the edge. All the hidden 1x were ripped out of 2x pine. My desk easily supports my weight [ lbs] and was built yrs ago.

I don't think the species of wood will make a lot of difference in supporting the plywood. Just adding any dimensional lumber to the edge adds a lot of strength.

I'd choose the lumber based on what will look best with your finished product. Another Router Usage Question- -. If I plan on rounding the upper corners of about 60 feet of 2x6 and some 2x8 for Bevelled Edge on MDF. Does anyone know how to get a professional bevelled edge on a sheet of mdf for a Routers and Router Bits. Maybe I haven't read the instruction manual as completely as I should, but I can Can anyone tell me what type of septic tank I have?

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Does anyone know if I could simply buy the hardware at local hardware store and what type and size of boards I would need for the frame and slats? So I have old woodwork that I painting. I believe it has been stained and varnished. I've used the Zinnser blue can in the past and still had some bleed through of the old finish. The color is a like a deep reddish brown. So I am trying the Zinnser red can which I was pretty sure is tinted shellac. I'm having the same problem with the bleed through.

I have some waterbourne shellac that I tried on some other trim and it helped a little bit, but not totally blocked. The fact that it was waterbourne kind of makes it hard to brush on. Any feedback would be appreciated. Ask a Question. Double Fillet and Cove. Double Ogee and Bead. Double Round Over. Dovetail Bits. Drawer Lock Bits. Dropleaf Table. Edge Banding Bits. Edge Beading Bits. European Door Edge.

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