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round-cut-router-jig-optimization Using a circle cutting jig makes round table tops so easy. Making table tops can be tricky if you’re making them different each time or even if it’s your first one. Then you add in the round option. Now, it gets even more tricky because you have to figure out how to cut a perfect circle or figure out how big to make it. I’ll give you a step by step look into how I went about making a round table top with a router circle cutting jig. First, I will literally list all the tools I used below. Tools I used to cut the round table top Plunge router: www.- (Disclaimer: I do not own. These corner cut router jigs was sent to me by www.- , and have proven to be quite handy. They are machined from solid aluminium with a red anodised finish. The jigs can cut a 10mm, 15mm, 20mm or 30mm radius. The jigs also come with a foam padded plastic case for storage to protect them from getting damaged. For more information and to see my test cuts, please watch the video above. These jigs can be picked up here: Wood Panel Radius Quick-Jig Router Table Bits Templates Kit: www.- Shop Related Products. Ads by Amazon. Make your router more accurate and versatile using these simple jigs and techniques.  Rounding over corners by hand-sanding produces uneven results. Instead, use a round-over bit with the radius you want for your corners. With the bit chucked on a table-mounted router, raise the bit height until it cuts a quarter-round profile in scrap without leaving a shoulder.  Backer blocks not only reinforce router-table cuts, they also double as miter gauges for keeping parts perpendicular to the fence more reliably than a miter gauge. Use the drawing below to assemble a backer block from 3⁄4 " scrap sheet goods, or customize it to suit your needs. One advantage of a base this size is that you can trim away the routed edges and use the block again with a different profile. Forgot Your Password? Like the jig described above, it's attached to the router's sub-base. Recover your round cut router jig optimization. Printer-friendly version. Visit the list through this button:. Creating a four-corner grain match. With the bit centered in the hole and the kerfmount the router to the jig with double-faced tape.

After routing project parts, rout the same profile on a gauge-block blank. Repeat for the mating bit, if needed. To use the gauge blocks, chuck a bit into a table-mounted router and raise it to roughly the correct height. Place the gauge block with the mating profile beside the bit. Then raise or lower the bit until it slides into the routed profile on the block, as shown below below right , and lock the height.

It indexes from the previously routed slot to ensure evenly spaced dadoes, dovetails, and grooves. Then rout a dado on the subbase bottom where the distance between the dado and the bit equals the spacing between the slots.

Make the dado as wide as the bit profile at the workpiece surface. Attach a matching hardwood guide in the dado. For dovetails, rout first with a straight bit, and then finish with a dovetail bit for efficient chip removal.

Edge cuts, such as chamfers, and surface profiles, such as flutes, sometimes need to start and stop precisely and uniformly. Clamp the stopblock to the edge of the workpiece as shown. Small parts can drop through oversize router-table inserts or instantly tug fingers into the bit.

Then keep your fingers safe by gripping the part with a handscrew. The jaws of these clamps can be angled to firmly grasp odd-size parts and hold them flat against the zero-clearance top. Perching a router on a shelf edge to flush-trim solid-wood edges can turn ugly if your machine tips. Give it stability by clamping together the shelves on edge.

Cut spacer blocks from 2x4 scrap and place them between the shelves at both ends. Then clamp the spacers and shelves together. We clamped one of those clamps to the bench for added stability. Then rout each edge with a flush-trim bit. If the router wobbles on the edges of the outside shelves, move those pieces to the inside, reclamp, and finish routing.

A tipping router can ruin the edge of a finished project, so keep that base stable. If you need to round over the outside edges of an assembled box, tip the project on edge and use the front, back, and sides to support the router base, as shown below left To rout inside round-overs with equal ease, clamp a 2x4 auxiliary support onto the outside surfaces, as shown bellow right. The toughest part of freehand routing is easing the workpiece against the bit.

To help you guide parts safely, make a starter pin from a hardwood, brass, or aluminum rod, and securely mount it to the table about 2" from the bit. Brace the workpiece against the starter pin; then slowly rotate it into the bit and bearing. Grip the workpiece close to the pin, and use the technique for small parts on slide 8. Maybe you need to enlarge a hole, or make a dead-on round hole larger than your largest Forstner bit. Do either using a rabbeting and a flush-trim bit.

Next, turn the workpiece upside down and install a flush-trim bit. Adjust the cutting depth so the bearing rides along the cut made by the rabbeting bit and rout away the step, as shown at below right.

This reversible template lets you rout mirror-image patterns, as on this shelf bracket. With a different pattern, you could rout matching tambour-door tracks in the inside faces of a rolltop desk or a countertop kitchen appliance holder. Size and shape the template to allow for the diameter of the guide bushing.

With the template in position on the workpiece, trace the reference edges of the workpiece onto the template bottom. For a tight fit, moisten dowels and allow them to dry before inserting them in the template. Next, choose a bit that creates the pattern you want, and attach a guide bushing sized to accommodate the router bit diameter and the desired offset from the template.

Tap the dowels flush with one side of the template before you clamp on the template so the dowels register against the workpiece. Rout the pattern, as shown below left. Then flip the template over, tap the dowels flush with the opposite surface, as shown below right , and rout the mirror version of the first path. Rounding over corners by hand-sanding produces uneven results. Instead, use a round-over bit with the radius you want for your corners.

With the bit chucked on a table-mounted router, raise the bit height until it cuts a quarter-round profile in scrap without leaving a shoulder. Then position the fence flush with the bit pilot bearing. To prevent chip-out and keep the frame square to the fence and router-table top, clamp it to a 2x4 backer block, as shown below.

Backer blocks not only reinforce router-table cuts, they also double as miter gauges for keeping parts perpendicular to the fence more reliably than a miter gauge. One advantage of a base this size is that you can trim away the routed edges and use the block again with a different profile. You also can modify the block to cut tenons on end by gluing on a vertical support to steady the workpiece and a heel to push it into the bit.

The downside to making adjustable shelving is drilling the shelf-pin holes consistently. With this template, however, you can bore clean, precise holes time after time using a plunge router with a guide bushing and straight bit.

Vary the strip width and length to suit the placement of your shelf-pin holes. Then clamp the template onto the case side. If the bushing extends past the template bottom, file or grind it flush.

At each hole in the template, insert the guide bushing and plunge-cut a hole. Mounting jigs or subbases onto a router, as shown in Tip 6 , requires precise mounting holes. Make that job easier by photocopying the router base and using the copy to mark and drill mounting holes. Check the copy size against the base size in case the copier is off slightly, and reduce or enlarge it as needed. If you have a computer scanner, you also can scan the base and file the scan for future printing.

No jointer? No problem. Plastic laminate clamped to the outfeed side of your router-table fence works the same as the outfeed table on a jointer. Cut laminate to fit the left side of the fence; then sand a chamfer on the edge nearest the bit to avoid snagging your workpiece. Use a straightedge to adjust the fence until the laminate is flush with the cutting edge of your installed flush-trim bit raised to cut the full width of the workpiece edge.

Start the pass by pressing the workpiece against the right half of the fence; then slide it from right to left. Take off the sub-base of the router to determine how big the circular end of the jig should be.

Drill holes into the circular end of the jig to correspond with the holes in the sub-base. Use the sub-base to guide the drilling. Screw the circular end of the jig into the router's base, aligning the circles on the sub-base with the holes drilled in the jig. To use the jig to cut a circle, draw a line on the work piece from its center to the end of the desired radius of the circle. Center the router atop the end point of the radius.

Drive a nail through the appropriate hole in the jig that corresponds with the center of the work piece image 1. Set the router to the proper depth, and make a slow pass through the work piece, using the nail as a pivot point image 2. Make deep cuts in several passes, lowering the router bit slightly after each pass. The second jig for cutting curves and circles with a router can be made from scraps that are around the workshop.

Like the jig described above, it's attached to the router's sub-base. Drill holes the same size as the dowels into one long edge of the 12" x 1x4 wood block.

The holes should be as far apart as the diameter of the router's base. Apply a little wood glue to the holes in the wood block. Place the dowels inside the holes, and allow the glue to dry. To use the jig to cut an arch or a circle, nail the center of the block to the center of the desired circle image 1. Slide the router to the appropriate spot on the dowels to correspond with the end point of the desired radius. Set the router bit to the appropriate depth.

Slowly swing the router through the work piece, using the wood block as a pivot point image 2. Repeat the process as necessary, slowly lowering the bit with each pass. Make It. Cut the Plywood Into a Circle Take off the sub-base of the router to determine how big the circular end of the jig should be. Drill Holes in the Circle Drill holes into the circular end of the jig to correspond with the holes in the sub-base.

Screw the Jig Into the Router Base Screw the circular end of the jig into the router's base, aligning the circles on the sub-base with the holes drilled in the jig. Drill Pivot Holes in the Arm of the Jig Drill small pivot holes into the arm of the jig, spaced 1 inch apart.

Cut a Circle To use the jig to cut a circle, draw a line on the work piece from its center to the end of the desired radius of the circle. Drill Holes in the Wood Block The second jig for cutting curves and circles with a router can be made from scraps that are around the workshop. Sand the Dowels Sand the tips of the dowels. Apply Wood Glue Apply a little wood glue to the holes in the wood block.

Lay the Dowels on the Sides of Router Place the dowels through the holes on the sides of the router's base.

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