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pocket-hole-jig-builders-warehouse-review The advantages of using conveyors with Coveya 4 February, View all. Spam not included. In general, they aren't as versatile, and most are two-hole rather than three-hole systems. You don't have to. K4 Pocket Hole Jig Pocket hole jig builders warehouse review. The alignment stops should be slid in place depending on the thickness of the board, and this takes about 2 seconds and is incredibly simple.

Either way I had the chance to use my new Triton pocket hole jig when building the plywood cabinetry, using it makes the task of putting boxing and cabinets together so easy. Simple steps to get the hang of using the jig — you adjust the depths to suit the boards, clamp it to the surface and drill where you have marked, then add glue and the correct screw and you have a strong, hidden and square joint.

Perfect for bespoke kitchen cabinets, wardrobes, MDF and plywood boxing in and lots more sheet material jobs that you come across on the job site during a property renovation. Holding bespoke cabinets together are my now very trusty fast action adjustable clamps, in three sizes, a mm, mm and mm length I have had plenty of time to make sure these guys do the job, and boy I can say they hold things tight.

The clamps have rubber end caps for protection of painted and laminated surfaces, they allow fine adjustment whilst still clamping tight and are lightweight and reliable — everything you need of a clamp, really.

Fit a wooden plug over the top, and the hole is almost invisible. The threads of the screw bite into the second of the two pieces to be joined, so the join stays tight. Plywood, softwoods, and hardwoods can all be joined with pocket-hole jigs. Width: Most jigs work with a minimum width of about one inch.

There is no practical maximum on width. Standard guides work for anything up to four inches wide. After that, you just keep adding holes six inches apart until you're done. Thickness: Most jigs work with a minimum thickness of one-half inch. Maximum thickness is approximately one and one-half inches, which is the actual size of all 2x posts and boards such as 2 x 4s and 2 x 6s.

Pocket-hole jigs have three basic components:. Drill bit with adjustable collar to set correct depth; Too shallow and the joint won't be strong. Too deep and the point of the screw might go through the joint, marring the outer surface.

The Kreg Tool Company doesn't just make pocket-hole jigs. There is also a handy decking jig so you can fix your boards without ugly nail heads showing , a specialist drawer-side jig of particular interest to cabinetmakers , and several other additions. However, they are all variations of the pocket-hole idea, so that's what we're focusing on here. The accuracy of the drill guide is vital.

Some manufacturers use aluminum. It's light, so it's easy to move around, but it's prone to wear, particularly from a high-speed steel drill bit. Kreg Jigs are made from a nylon material reinforced with fiberglass. The tough composite then has hardened steel drill guides inserted, which come with a lifetime warranty.

This ensures precision and repeatability. Clamping the workpiece firmly in the jig is another important aspect. Wood is soft, so the clamp can't be too aggressive or it will mark the surface. Some makers use a threaded version. Kreg favors a toggle clamp which has more positive closure or, on the top-end K5, an adjustable ratchet. If the material is too large to move to the jig, Kreg drill guides are all demountable, and each has its own specific clamping point.

This gives unrestricted mobility, and it means you can often carry out furniture repairs in situ. If you buy a full Kreg Jig system, you'll find a clamp included the K5 model is even self-adjusting. Many DIY woodworkers, as well as professionals, already own C-clamps that will do the job. Setting up the jig has to be clear and simple.

Measurements on Kreg Jigs are molded into the body so there's no mistake. Hole depth and screw size charts are also provided.

Nothing is left to chance. You have a choice of jig systems. You can buy a comprehensive system like the K5, or start smaller and add components as you need them. Kreg will even sell you a case to keep them all in! Waste always presents challenges to woodworkers. The bench-mounting Kreg jigs have expanded recesses for better chip clearance. Some have dust extraction ports. We looked at a number of cheaper pocket-hole jigs that compete with Kreg.

The main problems with them are excessive play in the components which makes accuracy very hit-and-miss and less robust construction. In general, they aren't as versatile, and most are two-hole rather than three-hole systems. This means the small pad is what will be clamped against the wood… Seems illogical, but it will still get the job done.

Set up is a breeze. You push in and slide the alignment stops. The flexion in the plastic locks and holds them in place:. I love this feature of the Kreg pocket hole jig. It makes lining up the stop collar on the bit quick and painless. This makes it quicker to set up.

The kit also comes with a nice allen wrench that is blue in color. I actually really like this because many times, the regular allen wrench with the other pocket hole jigs would end up next to other allen wrenches where it would blend in. This is honestly one of my favorite features. If you know anything about my woodworking jigs , you may have noticed that I like no-slip surfaces.

This is incredibly helpful for some jigs. With the rubber base on the Kreg , you can be more confident that your jig will not slide while drilling the pocket holes. The rubber base on the new Kreg jig fixes that problem. The alignment stops should be slid in place depending on the thickness of the board, and this takes about 2 seconds and is incredibly simple. The included stepped drill bit and collar can be lined up very quickly by sliding the collar in place, using the markings right on the bit.

Attach the clamp adaptor to your Kreg project clamp and push the rubber anchor of the adaptor into the back of the jig. This jig is always set up for 1 hole, 2 close holes, or 2 not-so-close holes, which are fixed. It just comes down to how you line up the board in the jig. Setting the depth is done with a little thumb screw and the fence slides up and down.

You really only need the main 3 for most woodworkers and DIYers as the jig uses. Set the bit and stop collar up by laying the bit in the slot on the jig, position it at the correct mark for the board thickness, then line up the collar and tighten down.

Now set the board in the jig and adjust the clamp head until it works for that thickness of board. The new jig is a breeze, and you can easily line it up where you want it with one hand, while clamping it down tight with the other.

This is the most tedious of the 3 methods.

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