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mineral-oil-salad-bowl-finish-normal Check out our salad bowl oil selection for the very best in unique or custom, handmade pieces from our shops.  Clapham's Beeswax Salad Bowl Finish, 50 gram jar, cutting board finish, edible wood finish, beeswax wood finish, wood polish, wood sealer. EarnestEfforts. From shop EarnestEfforts. 5 out of 5 stars. (1,) 1, reviews. $ Favorite. General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish. Reply. Johan December 16, pm.  Would it also (mixed w/ normal alcohol, not denatured alcohol) make a similar or better quality finish as the salad bowl varnish? Reply. Johan December 18, pm.  I did look at the spec/safety sheet for the General Finish salad bowl finish, and it does indeed contain mineral spirits on its own. But they do specify that it should not be used for chopping blocks, they recommend mineral oil for that. I assume they give this warning for legal purposes because the varnish is not “officially” approved for this purpose. Use Mohawk Salad Bowl Finish on wooden utensils, furniture, butcher blocks and toys. Salad Bowl Finish contains FDA regulated ingredients complying with 21 CFR Salad Bowl Finish creates a nontoxic, food safe (in its cured state) finish on wo. Autorotate 41 Posted March 1, Salad bowl finish I have used this finish for at least 25 yrs. Additional coats produces a slightly gloss finish. If turn a bowl for someone wanting to eat out of it; I use mineral oil as a finish, and give that person a small bottle of mineral oil to refinish as needed. In the welter of contrary opinions about which finishes are food mineral oil salad bowl finish normal and which are not, a few naturally derived, unblended, no-hidden-ingredients, certainly nontoxic finishes stand out.

That way no extra work or worry I agree with Chris about the difficulty going between these finishes. In my opinion, it is worse to go from mineral oil to a varnish product though, primarily because the oil never really cures.

It just absorbs, wears off on food, and washes off with cleanings. If you use the varnish method I recommend in the video, you shouldn't really end up with a strong shine. The idea is to seal the end grain taking care NOT to develop a film. Because the wood is never completely sealed, you actually can eventually begin using mineral oil to maintain the board if you want to. The mineral oil never cures anyway so if the wood is partially sealed, it won't make a difference.

Well, other than the fact that the board won't accept nearly as much oil as a raw board will. Hey thanks for jumping in Marc. Always good to hear from a master I guess I'll they'll have to just pick one and move on. I didnt think there was gonna be an easy answer. I like Ace's idea. Master Marc You da man, Marc. Especially on a big board I would use the salad bowl finish first to seal the board from soaking up water, juices etc.

You could lightly sand the surface and use either product long term for maintaining it. I see little difference in appearance between the 2 other than sheen which can be knocked back with a Scotch brite pad.

Marc is right about " master ". I'm still learning after 35 years woodworking, but I have gotten good at hiding my mistakes! I love everyone's modesty on this forum, or is that just the new way of eluding responsibliity? Ever looked in detail at your finished project and said to yourself "wow, its great" then think "how the heck did that happen? Then use a larger scrap or heck even a board I understand it costs money Lot better than using the actual project as a test piece.

This is so true with any finish. Reminds me of that joke In general, I don't like to use the varnishing technique on anything BUT end grain.

Problem is, you have a bit of a different situation when you're talking about a full countertop. Now we're talking about possible repeated water exposure on a daily basis. Unless the person truly intends to use the countertop as a primary cutting surface, I'd go with the more water-resistant product for the sake of longevity.

Then I'd take some leftover scraps from the project and make them a beautiful cutting board. Marc, So, thats one vote for each Yup, but that's just me. Lots of ways to skin the cat. Personally, I feel that wood is a pretty crappy material for a modern day counter top in a house.

But I can see why some folks want it for the warmth and visual appeal. It's just completely impractical, in my personal opinion.

Really, I need to get this project back in the lab garage and finish it, ha, "finish it" no pun intended. Since this is countertop, and will be mounted to a cabinet, if I go with the MO finish need the underside be finished with MO too?

Although derived from petroleum, it is colorless, odorless, tasteless and entirely inert. Sold as a laxative in drug stores and as a wood finish in hardware and kitchen-supply stores. Simple to apply, low water resistance, frequent reapplication.

Walnut oil. Pressed from the nuts of the walnut tree. Sold as a salad oil in health food stores and in large grocery stores. Walnut oil dries and won't go rancid. Easy to apply, frequent reapplication. The work of the honey bee. Can be mixed with an oil to create a better-smelling, slightly more water repellent finish.

Sold in woodworking and turning catalogs. Carnauba wax. Derived from the Brazilian palm tree. Harder than beeswax and more water-resistant. Can be used straight on woodenware as a light protective coating or a topcoat polish. A secretion from the lac bug. Harvested in India. Super blond shellac in flake form is the most water resistant variety. Forums New posts Featured threads.

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It may not display this or other websites correctly. You should upgrade or use an alternative browser. Is there a trick to salad bowl finish? Thread starter Bobostro61 Start date Feb 16, Bobostro61 Member.

It seems that this stuff doesn't give a high gloss finish. VERY satin finish if you ask me. I should add I guess I'm looking for a food safe finish that is high gloss. Does one exist? All finishes are food safe these days once cured, so you can use anything from shellac, poly, or lacquer to get the gloss depending on the end use of the bowl. Wildman Member. I do not know of any high gloss film or oil finish that is food safe.

Do not subscribe to one a finish is dry it is food safe, while FDA list many toxic chemcial that are safe for food contact do not list andy wood finishing products. Drying times do not equal curing time, most film finishes provide an in use time knowing full well their product may take more days or up to more than one month to fully cure.

When in doubt look at product MSDS and see if you want to eat of that bowl once finished. If turn a bowl for someone wanting to eat out of it; I use mineral oil as a finish, and give that person a small bottle of mineral oil to refinish as needed. Use film finish on ninety nine percent of my bowls and tell people my bowls are not food safe whether giving or selling.

Joined Feb 7, Messages My Bad. Last edited: Feb 17, The Penguin Member.

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