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mikov-marking-knife-youtube With the spare blades in abundance, re-sharpening would not be a concern for years to come. Post by Springmesser » Tue Mar 24, pm. Here's what it should look like now. Sorry, your miikov is incorrect. King 1 Items 1.

A sloppy job will ruin the tight fit and spoil the strip. You can cut the blind channel on a router table or table saw. Using the blade, I set the depth of cut on the table saw to just a hair less than the thickness of the blade. After making the first cut to establish one edge of the channel, I made a knife mark to locate the opposite edge and reset the fence to make the second cut.

I cut away the waste with multiple overlapping passes. To cut the channel to its final depth, I levelled the bottom with a router plane, an indispensable tool for precision work. To avoid overcutting and test cuts, set the teeth just shy of the thickness of the blade. Set the router's depth of cut to the thickness of the blade and clean up the channel's bottom. Using the blade as a Mikov Marking Knife Kit Kits template, I located and drilled the bolt and nut through-holes together.

After boring the recess holes for the bolt and nut, I reset the stop block and drilled the pin holes, a through-hole on the channelled strip and blind hole on the other.

I cut a short pin from an aluminum rod to length and used cyanoacrylate CA glue to affix it to the through-hole. You can also use epoxy glue. After the glue was cured, I hand sanded the pin flush. With the strips bolted together, I outlined the shape on the face of the handle.

Since the grain ran in the same direction for the strips, I shaped them with a spokeshave without any worries of tear-out. See the sidebar below for some tips on using a spokeshave. If you choose to use rasps for shaping, ease the edges with abrasives, a small plane or a cornering tool.

Depending on the grain direction, use push or pull strokes to shape the profile on the handle from both ends. To maintain the angle of cut, slightly press down at the front to steady and guide the tool as you push or pull. I set the blade at a slight angle to the sole so I can vary the depth of cut by re-positioning the spokeshave rather than re-setting the cutter. A dull blade, tricky grain or pressing too hard on the heel of the shave can cause chattering. Skew the shave slightly across the direction of travel to reduce this.

During your push or pull strokes, keep steady pressure on the toe without hesitation to the end; this is not the time for timidity. After dry fitting, I disassembled the knife and signed and dated the inside faces of the handle.

I applied a few coats of boiled linseed oil on all surfaces of the handle with light sanding between coats. I cut a short section out of a spine clip to make the blade protector and completed the assembly. When the time comes to resharpen or replace the blade, the owner of one of your knives will be reminded of what an exquisite tool you have given him or her!

Now you're ready to hand out your gifts. But did you just make a batch of fine layout tools or a bunch of box cutters? Next, it's a trip to the belt sander. Sand around the edges as close as you can to the liner. It should look like this.. Here's where we are now Go over the scales with some medium steel wool to smooth them out a bit.

Now, look at the overlap on the top bolsters. Mark the overlap with a pencil and sand smooth on the belt sander. Sand the scales smooth with grit sand paper. They're starting to look pretty good! Now, mark a small circle a little off center of the firing lever. This area needs to be recessed so the lever sits a little into the scales and it makes it easier to get your thumb under the lever. Back to the drill press. This is what it should look like.

Now, sand the recessed area with medium steel wool, then grit sandpaper. Here's what it should look like now.. Now it's time to spend a little quality time with your scales. Sand them with graduating grits of 3m polishing cloth's. Start with , then , , Make sure to wipe clean in between grits. Add a couple coats of minwax sealer and we'll see what it looks like tomorrow. You can get the 3m sheets here See you tomorrow. Last edited by eastcoastsniper on Tue Nov 24, am, edited 2 times in total.

Contact butch. Re: Let's make a Mikov Quote Post by butch » Tue Mar 24, pm nice work on the tutorial sniper one step I do after applying the minwax sealer is buff lightly with Mikov Marking Knife Kit 80 steel wool,not a neccessity just gives it a glass smooth finish.

Yep, those scales should not shift when drilling the pin holes. Re: Let's make a Mikov Quote Post by eastcoastsniper » Tue Mar 24, pm I hold the wheel steady and in position with my right hand and move the scale with my left hand. By doing it this way, you can also move the wheel up and down for your bevel cuts. Re: Let's make a Mikov Quote Post by Springmesser » Wed Mar 25, am eastcoastsniper wrote: I hold the wheel steady and in position with my right hand and move the scale with my Marking Knife From Hacksaw Blade Youtube left hand.

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