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making-dovetail-wooden-boxes Learn new craft techniques and tips from the experts. The end result will feature a sliding lid that will not neatly whatever you want. Finish sand the outside and add your choice of finish. Read More. A table sawmiter sawmaking dovetail wooden boxes planer make sizing stock easier. Enjoy classes anytime from maiing convenience of your home or even on-the-go with our mobile apps.

One of the most fundamental skills of cabinetry or fine furniture making is building dovetail drawers. A well-built dovetail drawer is not only incredibly strong and long-lasting but is aesthetically beautiful. One way to identify a woodworker's skill level is to check and see how well they build the dovetail drawers in their projects.

In this article, we take you step-by-step through the process of building dovetail drawers. Once you understand the basics, you'll be able to consistently make beautiful dovetail drawers for your woodworking projects. Some of the same skills can be used for dovetail joints used in other applications, too. The first step is to cut the four sides of the drawer to length. Drawers typically are built from 1x stock, but the widths can be dependent on the height of the drawer required.

Once the sides of the drawer are cut to the appropriate lengths, we'll turn our attention to cutting the dovetails. While traditional dovetails are cut by hand with a dovetailing saw and chisel, we're going to use a dovetail jig and a router. With the pins and tails properly cut in the four sides, we'll turn our attention to cutting the groove in each of the four drawer pieces to accommodate the drawer bottom.

Before we move onto the final assembly, it is a very good idea to dry fit the entire dovetail drawer box. The marking gauge and dovetail gauge I use are handmade, but there are many good commercial ones available. You could substitute a scale and a bevel gauge for the marking and dovetail gauges, but having dedicated tools is better especially if you take the time to make them yourself.

Although my dovetail method avoids chopping either pins or sockets, a sharp chisel is a requirement. You will need a backsaw or dovetail saw to saw both the pins and socket sides. Finally, you will need a router to hog waste. I will discuss types of router bits later. I use a coping saw to complete the pin and socket spaces.

A table saw , miter saw , and planer make sizing stock easier. I will show my basic method for building these boxes either with a top or open. If the box is utilitarian, you could use plywood, poplar, or cedar and then finish with oil or paint.

If the box is more decorative I usually use red oak as there always seems to be some good left-over stock from my other projects. Other good choices include white oak, walnut, cherry, vertical Making Wooden Fly Boxes 7d grain Douglas Tips For Making Wooden Boxes Quest fir and hickory. Knotty or figured woods can make a statement but can also overpower a piece.

Start by sizing your stock. Thickness is strictly a preference, however smaller boxes look better with thinner stock. Pre-sand the side pieces now, concentrating mostly on the interior face. Sometimes I finish the interior surfaces of the pieces at this point as it is easier than trying to get into corners later. If you have a definite outside depth, rip your stock to that size plus enough to clean up saw marks.

I cut the grooves for the top and bottom at this time. However, if you want the ends of the grooves to not show, cut stopped grooves after lengths are cut.

Be careful setting the depth as the blade will almost always saw higher than expected. Mark the stock and run that marked edge against the fence. The sides and ends can now be cut to length. If inside dimensions are used, make all pieces that dimension plus twice the thickness. For outside box measurements cut pieces to the exact length. As you cut, mark the pieces so mating ends remain together during the marking process.

Now we are ready to cut dovetails. Set the marking gauge Making Wooden Boxes With Lids 4d to the stock thickness. Mark both ends of both faces of all side and end pieces. You won't need all these marks but it is faster to just mark all than try to decide which will require a mark.

Next, decide if you want the pins to face the side or end. This is strictly an aesthetic decision but can make a visual difference. If you want the pins ends showing on the side, place the front and back inside faces together with their bottom edges mated and clamp in a vise with one end up. Using the dovetail gauge, mark the pins on one face and extend with a square across the end and down the other face.

Put a straight cut bit in your router and set the depth using one of the side pieces. Use the widest bit that will fit through the bottom of the pin.

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