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Order my paper. Calculate your essay price. Type of paper. Academic level. Pages words. But over the course of a dozen jobs, I've come up with a few shortcuts--I don't really remember where I learned a lot of these tricks, I just know them.
Crown molding is usually nailed to the wall studs along the bottom edge and into the ceiling joists above--a lot of stud-finder work. I skip all that by installing a plywood backer board to the top plate the horizontal framing member above the wall studs. The power miter saw and stand provide a safe, quick and accurate way to execute precise cuts.
Select a stand with an integral power strip and extendable arms to support lengths of molding. There are two ways to cut crown: Either lay it flat beneath the blade, or set it against the saw at the angle, the way it will be installed between the wall and ceiling.
I prefer the latter. The flat method requires adjusting the saw blade to make both a bevel and miter cut; my way, the saw table acts as the ceiling, the fence is the wall, and an upside-down piece of crown can be cut at a compound angle with a simple degree vertical chop.
To hold the crown in place, it helps to clamp a cleat to the saw table. To set this up, I first clamped a length of molding with its edges flush against the saw's vertical fence and horizontal table. I pressed a inch, straight-edged board tight against the crown and clamped it to the table 2.
This piece, the cleat, stayed in place between cuts, so I could easily drop each piece of crown into position. I cut away the center of the cleat by making a left-hand and a right-hand degree miter cut, opening a channel for the blade to pass through 3. Most crown comes in foot lengths, so unless you're trimming out a gymnasium, a single piece can usually span each wall.
When it can't, two lengths join end to end in a scarf joint 4. This combines opposing compound-angle miters in a clean, nearly undetectable seam. Molding can shrink or shift out of position slightly--with a scarf joint, as opposed to a square-edged butt joint, a gap won't appear at the seam.
To form a scarf joint, I made a compound-angle miter cut on the end of one length of crown. I nailed the crown to the backer board and then made an opposing compound-angle miter cut onto the end of the mating length of crown.
After applying a little wood glue to the joint, I slid the second piece of crown into position and nailed it to the backer board. A coped joint connects two pieces of crown molding at an inside room corner. I prefer this type of joint over a miter joint because wall corners are rarely perfectly 90 degrees.
A coped joint, in which a piece of crown is tailored to fit an adjacent profile's curves, makes a tight-fitting seam even if the inside corner is out of square--as many are. I cut the first length of crown with a square end, pushed it tight into the corner and nailed it in place. Then, I cut a compound-angle miter into the end of the mating length of crown 1.
Next, I used a coping saw to back-cut the molding along its contoured profile 2. The idea is to saw away enough wood to allow the coped cut to fit tight against the profile of the first piece of crown.
After cutting, the coped piece needed a little fine-tuning before it fit snugly. I smoothed the coped joint with rat-tail, half-round and flat files, as well as a wood dowel wrapped in grit sandpaper 3.
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