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block-plane-hand-tool-zone Smaller block planes better suited to single handed work.  Menu. Power Tools. Drills, Drivers & Screwdrivers. Combi Drills. Drill Drivers. Drywall Screwdrivers. Impact Screwdrivers. Percussion Drills. Block planes do not typically have removable frogs like bench planes, but there are some exceptions, mainly on some of the specialty and low angle planes where part of the frog moves with the iron when adjusting depth of cut. Either way, the function of the frog is the same on all planes. It provides a secure platform on which the iron is supported.  Tuning a hand plane is not a difficult endeavor. Once practiced, the whole process can be accomplished in about a half hour, even less depending on the tool. Rather than view it as an unpleasant chore, I actually enjoy it, especially later in the evening when the dust has settled and the world is quiet. Производство Miki Tool (Япония). Подробнее. 1 p.  Точилка ПЕТРОГРАДЪ предназначена для удержания инструмента под заданным углом при ручной заточке на абразивных камнях. Мин. длина зажимаемого полотна - 60мм, www.- - 8мм, макс. ширина - 82мм, макс. толщина - 7мм. Оснащена самоцентрирующимся зажимом, для точного позиционирования лезвия.

I equally fit into this scenario, and while my iron-bodied planes work wonderfully, I also enjoy the feel and results of using wood-bodied planes.

Before we move forward, let's hadn the two main types block plane hand tool zone wooden planes, other than molding planes. Since the block of wood was not cut open, ultimately limiting access, the level of expertise and precision ran about 9 or 10 out of In this article, I'll focus solely on a style of plane that is a take on the Krenov block plane hand tool zone planes.

Two zome differences are 1 my use of a metal cross-rod rather than a wooden one that is trapped between the two sides, and 2 not using dowels to index the sides to the core pieces. You can implement one or both of these design options during your build, if you wish. You can use just about any iron from a block plane or bench plane, if b,ock would rather reuse something already in your kit.

This extra long version can allow some additional design choices, whether it is bedding angle or simply the shape of the body. Figure 1 - Side view of Hock set above Stanley block plane iron. I recently purchased two of the longer Hock Tools plxne sets, created to use in a wooden plane body built by the end-user. A few years ago I found some Cherry that I had cut into rectangular blocks, from a half-log section.

They were around 3" square in thickness and 12"" long, which provided plenty of block plane hand tool zone for the smoothing style plane that I had envisioned. Another positive attribute was the fine grain structure of this wood.

While most yand woods are usable, it's not a bad idea to block plane hand tool zone away from some that have a more porous nature to their structure, as some oaks have. Ultimately, it is up to the person making the plane. Before starting the layout, I squared up the Ahnd blank using my jointer plane. If you don't have a jointer plane or a fool jointer, you can flatten one side which will be used as the sole of your plane using handd on a known flat surface, like a piece of float glass or the top of a table saw.

Use a square to check if either connecting side might just be square to the flat surface you created. If not, using the square block plane hand tool zone the beam against blodk flat surface, mark each end of the blank.

Draw a line down the length of the blank, between the two points that intersect the side opposite of the flattened side shown in Figure 2 below as the dotted line running down the length. This will indicate the amount of wood you need to remove in order to create the side square to the flat side.

Repeat for the other side adjacent to the first block plane hand tool zone side, so it is block plane hand tool zone square to the original flat hane. Figure 2 - Dotted line indicates square up end and tpol length. Original angle between Block plane hand tool zone and B is larger than degrees. After the blank is square, draw a large block plane hand tool zone on the pkane of the plane, with the tip of the triangle pointing towards the toe of yand plane.

This will help put the pieces back together, after cutting, in the same orientation as they were originally. This extra space provides a little room to adjust the iron laterally, while setting the plane for use.

Set a marking gauge for the distance between the edge of the blank and the marks made outside the iron. If cutting on a bandsaw or a table saw, run the gauge down the top surface so you can easily line up the cut. If cutting with a hand saw, run the lines down both of the long sides and along the end grain.

Figure 3 - Large triangle and side thickness marked. Set up the bandsaw fence so the distance from the edge of the blank touching the hanc to a tooth on the blade that points away from the fence, almost touches the nearest tlol on the blank.

This will minimize the setup, as you can cut the first side and then just rotate the blank so the bolck side is against the fence keeping the same surface down on the bandsaw table and make the second cut.

Always make sure to use push sticks, especially when dealing with narrow off-cuts like the sides for this plane. Safety must be job number 1! Before laying out the bedding angle and the front relief angle on the center section, you'll need to determine if the inside surfaces of the three pieces need attention to glue up solidly and gap free.

If you have a carbide-tipped bandsaw blade, you may be golden straight from the saw. If the surfaces do need attention, work carefully, trying to keep your work as flat as possible. If sanding, use light pressure pushing the piece forward with centralized hand pressure, and then lift and repeat. After the pieces mate well, set aside the two sides and it's now time to mark the center section for cutting. Most standard bench planes smoothers, jacks, and jointers have the iron bedded at degrees.

When making your first wooden plane, this is probably a good choice, unless you already have a number of planes with this bedding angle or need a high-angled plane. I actually made this plane with a bedding angle of about degrees, which can help handle some difficult grained woods. If you go with a degree bedding angle, you can use a combination square to mark the angle, as most have one side with a degree angle.

If you want to go higher than degrees, either block plane hand tool zone can use a sliding bevel gauge set with a protractor, or you could mark out 45 degrees and shift it slightly to get into the 50 — 55 degree range.

I wouldn't suggest going much higher than 55 degrees, even though there are a few planes that are around degrees, as the effort to push the plane through the cut increases as the angle increases.

Zonee you decide the angle for bedding, line up the bottom portion of the bedding angle so that it is closer to the toe of the plane, rather than the heel. The other line you'll mark on the center section can be either a straight line or a gently curved line. I prefer to use a curved line, as this gives a little more room when reaching in to clear a shaving. The angle this time sloping from the sole upward towards the top at the toe section is in the degree range. If you want a curve, just mark the upper and lower points on a degree block plane hand tool zone and glock hand-draw a gentle curve between them.

To cut the bedding angle for the iron you can use the table saw and miter gauge, a chop saw, or vlock bandsaw. The front section's cut is easiest at the bandsaw, as it is not a critical cut and doesn't need to be absolutely flat for the iron. I block plane hand tool zone expect to clean up the surfaces of both cuts. Check the bedding surface to make certain there are no issues preventing solid contact with the back of the iron. To adjust it, you can use a block plane set for a plqne cut, sand paper on a known flat surface, or even a diamond flattening plate.

I prefer to use the block plane and skewing it slightly makes the work much easier. Just remember to focus on your technique block plane hand tool zone you don't impart b,ock unintended shaping to the surface. Figure 4 - All cuts made with side and center swung open. You must remove material down the center of the bedding surface, creating a trough for the screw disregard if block plane hand tool zone an iron without a chip breaker that mates the chip breaker to the iron, allowing the iron to mate solidly against the wood.

Make sure to hold your iron up to the bedding surface and verify it will extend far enough to reach through the sole of the plane, even after sharpening a number of times. Some prefer to remove this trough using a router table with a straight bit, but I scribe mine by hand, and use my router plane to evacuate the needed material. Scribe this setting on the top edge, so you know the depth at which to stop the router plane.

Figure 5 - Center section showing trough on bedding at red arrow. The next step is to lightly dry clamp the two sides to the center section. Make sure they are lined up with one end flush to each other, while sitting on a known flat surface. Lightly clamp the front section in this position and use a sharp pencil to draw hnad location of both middle sections on the wall area of both sides.

The area between the two lines, on each side, is the glue-free zone. On a flat surface, block plane hand tool zone down either wax paper or a thin block plane hand tool zone mat, which will toool your reference surface hsnd the glue up. Gather the clamps ttool plan to use in the process and set them so they are open enough to go on easily, but close without a lot plnae work.

Get your glue out I use a good yellow or white glue and have a small brush or scrap of thin wood ready to spread the glue.

Set the plane pieces up on the surface, verifying one last time the earlier triangle mark matches on all pieces. Take the top zpne of each side and push it away from the center yool, so it lays on the surface with the glue surface facing up.

Carefully stand the three pieces up zoone their sole area. Put glue on the other side section, using the same plahe. Stand the second side up and carefully put it into position. Block plane hand tool zone holding the back center portion and sides flush on the flat surface, apply a clamp lightly to the center of that section. Do the same with the front section; again making sure the center section is in alignment with the two sides at the sole.

Begin gool additional clamps over key areas, starting with just behind the bedding surface, down close to the sole. After all of your clamps are hamd place, block plane hand tool zone that the bottom of both middle sections are flush with the sides, and quickly adjust them if they are not.

Let the glue set for a minimum of an hour with the clamps on, but if you have the time then you should let it set overnight. I have tried both and luckily ended up with equally solid planes. Remove the clamps and clean up any additional glue that zlne out on the sole. The other areas will not matter since you will cut them away as you shape hanx plane, so there is no reason to waste your time and energy.

Using the sliding bevel gauge, set it so it matches the angle of the bedding surface. Line the gauge up on block plane hand tool zone outside of haand side, matching it with the rear of the mouth, and draw a line. While holding toll in place, draw a small line along the back of the chip breaker in the area of planr horizontal line drawn earlier.

This small line represents where the back of the chip breaker will sit in the plane. Use an awl or another pointed tool to mark at the indicated point Parts Of A Metal Hand Plane Zone to help align the drill gool for the starting location.

If you wish, you can choose to glue a dowel into the through hanx after the rod is in place. Figure 6 - Cross-rod holes actual rod at left with bed angle in pencil on side. Put the rod into the plane so it is at full depth, then make a tkol mark flush with the outside of the plane. You can cut the mild steel rod with either a hacksaw or a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool. Just take your time and work around the rod, until there is a little section holding it together in the middle.

With gloves on since zon can be quite warm just bend it back and forth block plane hand tool zone few times and it should snap free.

Use a smooth metal file to remove tooll burrs and clean up the ends before use. Take the center triangular section from earlier and lay out the wedge so so that the smooth surface will be against the hanv breaker. This will give you some choices. You can test out both ends of the spectrum to find what is best for you.

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