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wood-carpenter-bee-traps-40 Facebook Pinterest YouTube. If you made your bee trap differently, be careful not to drill all the way through the wood. You can buy any brand of the substance, such as this Temprid FX Insecticide. Wood bees are not social insects.

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Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Part 1 of All rights reserved. This image may not be used by other entities without the express written consent of wikiHow, Inc. Purchase pressure-treated wood to make the base of the trap. Carpenter bees build their nests in soft pieces of wood, so avoid untreated lumber.

Head to a hardware store or repurpose any wood scraps you have laying around. Pine and cedar are a couple of options for an inexpensive but effective trap. Pressure-treated wood often has a faint green hue and smells like oil. You can design your trap differently if you wish to. Put on eye goggles and a dust mask before working on the trap. Whenever you plan on cutting or drilling wood for the trap, cover up to avoid sawdust and wood shards.

Keep other people out of the areas while you work. Consider also working outdoors or ventilating your workspace by opening nearby doors and windows. Measure up from one end of the post and mark the distance in pencil. Then, use a circular saw or handsaw to cut horizontally across the post. In fact, leaving the post relatively small makes the trap easier to handle.

If you have excess wood to spare, you could make additional traps with the material you cut. Measure and mark a diagonal angle at the top of the post. Measure about 7 in 18 cm up along one side of the post. Make another mark about 4 in 10 cm up the opposite side of the post. Use a ruler to draw a diagonal line connecting the points. The line will be at about a degree angle and is used to cut the top part of the trap.

You could also do it without cutting the post at an angle, but it makes the tunnels trickier to line up. Use a saw to trim the post along the traced line. Hold the post still again. This will leave the post with an angled top you can use to hang the trap later. The board will cover up any holes as well as give you a place to safely install a hanging mechanism. Part 2 of Flip the post over so the flat, bottom edge faces upward.

Position the drill bit directly over the center of the post. Carefully drill straight down, creating a hole about 4 in 10 cm deep. If the drill bit is too long, mark it with tape so you know when to stop drilling.

Mark entry holes 2 in 5. Measure up from the bottom edge of the post on one side. Mark the spot in pencil, then repeat the process on the other 3 sides. Lay the post flat and start with one of the marks you made on the sides of the trap. Point the drill bit up toward the top of the trap at a degree angle. If you angle the drill properly, the new holes will end up connecting to the center tunnel, giving the bees nowhere to go but down.

It causes the bees to head toward the clear jar placed at the bottom of the trap. Drill all the way in until you reach the center of the trap. The hole needs to be about 4 in 10 cm deep. You will eventually feel the drill bit reach the initial tunnel you made through the bottom of the post.

Drill through the remaining sides make a few entrances for the bees. You could try widening the holes or drilling down through the top of the post to connect them all. Part 3 of Twist the lid off of a Mason jar. A half-pint jar has a lid about 2.

Turn the metal ring on top of the jar counterclockwise by hand to free the lid. The lid is the flat piece of metal inside the ring. Pick up the lid and set it aside. Try cutting open one bottle and stapling the bottom half to the trap. Fit a second bottle half over it to hold the bees.

Use a marker to mark the spots you need to punch through the lid. Find where the center is and mark it. Then, calculate the halfway points between the center and the rim of the lid. Mark these spots as well. The center marking will be an opening for the Wood Carpenter Bee Traps Zip Code bees to crawl through. The other spots are there to secure the lid to the trap. Use a metal punch to poke holes through the lid.

Set the lid on top of a piece of scrap wood. Then, position a metal punch over one of the marks. Hammer the opposite end of the punch until it breaks through the lid. Repeat this with the other marks you made.. Drill down through the center hole to widen it. Keep widening it until it matches the tunnel hole you made on the bottom of the wood post. Hold it down firmly against a piece of scrap wood that the drill bit can pass through without issue.

If you use the wrong drill bit, it could burn out your drill as well as ruin the lid, so choose carefully. Screw the lid to the underside of the trap. Then, position the ring over the hole on the bottom edge of the wood post. Finish securing the lid by using a screwdriver to turn the screws clockwise. Then, make sure the lid is securely in place before attempting to position a Mason jar on it.

Flip the trap over so the Mason jar side is facedown. Position your drill bit along the center of the trap, then drill down into it. It needs to be the same length as the screw. Normally, it will be 2 in 5. If you made your bee trap differently, be careful not to drill all the way through the wood. Twist an eye screw into the hole to hang the trap. Use a screw the same length as the hole you made. Set the screw end in the hole, then turn it clockwise until it feels tight and sturdy.

Find space for the trap near your deck or other spots carpenter bees tend to invade. With a screw hook, you can hang up a trap just about anywhere. Put it up high, such as on a table or railing. Fit the Mason Jar onto the lid to complete the trap. After hanging up the trap, move the Mason jar toward the lid. It should fit into the ring holding the lid in place.

Turn the jar counterclockwise until it hangs in place. When the jar fills with bees, you can unscrew it again to clean it out. The light attracts them there. It works the same way whether you use a jar, plastic bottles, or another clear material. Did you know you can read answers researched by wikiHow Staff? Demon WP Insecticide. Multiple sizes available.

A professional wettable powder insecticide for crack and crevice and spot applications for residual and contact control of many common insects. Suspend SC.

Tempo SC Ultra. A professional insecticide that controls insects in commercial and residential, areas both indoors and outdoors. Taurus SC Termiticide. A professional non-repellent termiticide with the same active ingredient as Termidor SC. Cy-Kick CS. A professional insecticide that controls many insects indoors and outdoors in commercial and residential areas.

Demand CS. Delta Dust Insecticide. An professional insecticide dust that is the only waterproof dust available, ideal for wall voids and cracks and crevices. Permethrin SFR A professional termiticide insecticide that provides rapid knockdown and long-lasting residual control of insects indoors and outdoors.

A professional aerosol insecticide with a residual kill in crack and crevice areas for commercial and residential indoor usage. Cy-Kick Aerosol. Demon Max. Onslaught Insecticide. D-Force Insecticide. A professional residual insecticide that provides control of crawling insects including bedbugs and termites for up to 8 weeks. Temprid FX Insecticide. A professional insecticide with contact and residual kill of insects for commercial and residential indoor and outdoor areas including ornamental plants.

A professional slow-release insecticide that is micro-encapsulated which provides long-lasting protection for commercial and residential indoor and outdoor areas.

Conquer Liquid Insecticide. FenvaStar EcoCap. A microencapsulated insecticide for bedbugs, roaches, and a variety of other structural and plant pests. Tempo Ultra WP. Temprid Ready To Spray. An insecticide can that uses the Bag-on-Value technology which allows for degree application and empties all of the insecticide for indoors and outdoors.



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