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v-shaped-carving-tool-75 Discuss this material on the Woodcarving Illustrated forums. I also have a set of Footprint gauges that my wife picked up several years ago. Mikisyo Power Grip Carving Chisel - v shaped carving tool 75 direct on metal clay, shaper, rubber, and lino! Allongee is a French word for elongated. I have attached a couple of photos showing the tip.

This gallery has 2 photos. Tags: None. It is not clear if your photo was straight in relation to the V-tool of if it is a long bent version. In the photos below, the curved V-tool is a Marples long bent. The other is a Pfeil mm. In both tools the bevels are formed 90 degrees to the axis of the tool.

The bevel angles should be 20 to 25 degrees. The interior "V" of the tool should be smooth. The thickness of the V-tool "wings" should be exactly equal. Comment Post Cancel. Attached is a photo of the whole tool.

The internal angle I would estimate as degrees. From what you said I should grind back the end to be 90 degrees then grind the bevel on both sides. Thank you for the input. This gallery has 1 photos. It looks to me like it was intended to have a long bend. Be careful with the grinding. A 7mm wide tool will heat up quickly, With the Marples V-tool in my photo, I used only hand work on a sharpening stone.

Also bear in mind, carvers often shape tools to their personal preferences. I think we had a discussion in the past about whether the "wings" should lead or follow. Make it usable, then decide what works best for you. Brian T. Lead or follow. I didn't understand the need for that. Was carving the ribs of a fish fin, running up to the fish body.

Contact Mac or visit his shop, Smoky Mountain Woodcarvers, at www. Discuss this material on the Woodcarving Illustrated forums. Read more about techniques for beginners! Easy steps to tune a complex tool by Mac Proffitt This article was first published in issue 54 of Woodcarving Illustrated. Strop the V-tool. I use a leather strop to keep my tools sharp. Strop a V-tool the same way you strop a chisel. Place one wing of the tool on the strop with the entire bevel touching the stop.

Pull the tool toward you with an even stroke. Repeat the process eight to nine times, and then use the same process to strop the other wing. Spoon-shaped chisels and gouges are in the 20s and 30s; gouges that have a back-bent shape range from 33 to 38; tools such as macaroni and fluteroni lurk in the upper 40s and low 50s; and special spoon bits are in the 60s. To add to the confusion, expect to find tools described as dogleg, fishtail, allongee, and in-cannel.

The fluteroni also has three beveled edges, but each side has a small radius on both sides of the cutting edge. It fills the gap between the macaroni tool and a gouge. Most carvers familiar with the macaroni and fluteroni tools do not use the entire edge in one cut—they tend to use one side or the other. The blade of the dogleg chisel is bent, resulting in a shape that looks like a step.

Because of the location of the bevel, it is a good tool for finishing flat recesses or backgrounds on a relief carving where clearance is limited. As the name suggests, the fishtail gouge has a partially tapered profile. Useful for delicate wood removal, it is also good for undercutting and cleaning out corners.

The sweeps typically range from 1 to 9. Some palm-size tools come as bent fishtails. Allongee is a French word for elongated.

Similar to the fishtail gouge, the allongee has a shank that tapers back continuously to the handle. It is designed for roughing out and heavy wood removal. Most of the gouges you will come across have the bevel on the outside of the curve. But some do have a bevel on the inside. Called in-cannel, this style of gouge works best as a paring tool for convex surfaces. One carver I know, who excels at abstract sculpture with many convoluted surfaces and voids, finds in-cannel gouges essential.

In fact, he fits his blades with extra-long handles so that they can reach deep into the recesses of his pieces. In the Sheffield number system, V-tools range from 39 into the 40s. Some carvers say that the V-tool is just two chisels joined to form a V.

That makes sense because the tool can perform as a chisel if held so only one cutting edge is doing the work. But the primary function of this tool is to separate areas when outlining, adding detail, texturing, or undercutting. It is also called a parting tool. The difference between the V and the gouge, even a 11, is that the V gives you a wall rather than a valley. Since nearly all V-tools have two straight edges, measurements are based on the angles of the V.

Angles are usually 30, 45, 60 and 90 degrees. Typically, the tighter or narrower the V angle, the harder the tool works through the wood. In effect, the cutting edges make a channel smaller than the width of the tool. This is not particularly noticeable with a degree V-tool because the cutting edges can easily ride up in the channel to accommodate the change.

Narrow V-tools are best for making cuts that are both shallow and narrow or for cleaning out corners where the cutting edges are free to move.

An exception to the straight-edge V is the winged V-tool, meaning that both side profiles have curvature. The winged V softens work by rounding the top of the carved edge. Expect to find this specialized tool in the kit of an ornamental carver.

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