%!$ Easy Diy Woodworking Bench Plans For You #!@

smoothing-plane-blade-angle-update The Veritas low-angle smooth plane has three key uses. It is used to smooth large surfaces, preferably taking a diagonal cut, partly across and partly along the grain. Similarly, with its generous sides, it is ideal for shooting mitres. Finally, it is excellent for end-grain work. The low cutting angle of 37° minimizes fibre tearing. With a bed angle of 12°, this is a "bevel-up" plane, like a low-angle block.  To use this plane as a regular bench plane, Veritas have developed a high-angle blade. Using this blade doubles the use of the plane by enabling it to excel at smoothing varying grain woods. Click here for replacement blades. But first, an update regarding this Totally Awesome and Worthless Blog As you likely know, Bridge City has a new website. When the old site was ported to the new site, including this blog, some functionality disappeared.  BLADE RETENTION MECHANISM The tradition of wedging an iron to a metal plane bed with a fulcrum lever has remained unchanged for hundreds of years and the reason is simple, it works. However, this constrains the aesthetic possibilities for the plane body.  This plane, with these attack angle choices, may be the only smoothing plane you will ever use or need. The robust irons (”/ mm thick) are a full two inches wide ( mm) and are hardened to Rc from A2 tool steel. They are lapped to a mirror finish—no flattening required. The 12 degree bed angle, coupled with the 38 degree blade bevel, yields an effective cutting angle of 50 degree; this is known as a York pitch. York Pitch is an ideal starting angle for minimising tear-out when working difficult wood. It is easy to create a higher micro-bevel angle for very difficult grains. It weighs in at just under kg, with an exceptionally low centre of gravity. It is an excellent choice for the most demanding reversing grains, where even higher bevel angles (for creating Type II shavings) are required to eliminate tear-out. The coffin-shaped body has a sole length of. Worthy Mention. Like this: Like Loading Also scrub planes don't work well when working parallel to a board like most planes, so plane across the board at a degree angle to prevent tear out. The standard smoothing plane blade angle update bevel angle for bevel down bench planes uupdate 25 degrees. October 14, at am.

There is an advantage with bevel up irons in that the angle of the bevel can be changed to affect a change in the angle of cut. While there is more to consider in edge geometry than just the angle of cut i. Durability of such a thin cutting edge would be problematic with most woods. The table below shows the three most common bench and block plane types and the proper angles at which to sharpen the irons.

Secondary bevels are a very shallow bevel along the cutting edge of the primary bevel. It takes considerably less time and effort to final hone a small secondary bevel that it does the entire primary bevel.

They also make honing touch ups a snap. On a bevel down plane, adding a secondary bevel affects no change in the angle of cut. The only thing it changes ever so slightly is the relief angle — the angle between the back side bevel side of the iron and the work surface. It also slightly reduces the total bevel angle on the iron itself, but should not be enough to affect durability of the edge.

On most planes the addition or subtraction of a couple of degrees of bevel angle is not going to make any difference. Back Bevels — Back bevels can be added for a couple of reasons. On a bevel down plane, unlike the secondary bevel adding a back bevel will affect the angle of cut.

This is something you can use to your advantage. And again, increasing this angle of attack is actually advantageous when planning wood with difficult grain. Again, a couple of degrees difference should not adversely effect the durability of the edge.

However, with a little experimentation, you may find that making some adjustments to the geometry helps overcome challenges presented by both difficult wood and less than perfect plane irons.

Wish I read this article two weeks ago, it would have saved me a lot of frustration, turns out, that I was sharpening then putting the bevel up on the bench plane …just flipped the iron, great results.

I am a beginner, and those things are not given…thanks anyway. Like Liked by 1 person. Like Like. Still using the original blade circa in my Stanley bench plane. Modern alloys, such as O1 and A2 are superior for edge retention, and the better made blades from Hock, Lie-Nielson, and Veritas are thicker and ground to a much higher degree of precision than your s Stanley, making them much easier to properly sharpen.

You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account. You are commenting using your Twitter account. You are commenting using your Facebook account. Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. Email Address:. Posts Comments. Get a Handi Grip on this Stanley no. Bevel Down Bench Plane. Most of the time the type of work that you are going to be using this hand plane for is, of course, final surface finishing so some would say that the greater the contact length of the plane actually helps to ensure a more perfectly smooth surface.

A lot depends upon the size of wood being worked on, some people prefer the most common traditional length of around 14 inches for a smoothing hand plane while others prefer a longer plane length, again it all comes down to personal preference. As you would expect because of the bigger size of this smoothing plane, its weight is obviously going to be more than the traditional sized smoothing plane. This plane weighs The biggest difference that you will notice about this plane compared to other smoothing planes apart from the length is that this one has a serrated sole.

The idea behind the ground serrated sole is to enable better sliding when working because of the reduction of resistance on the worked surface. Of course, you have full plane adjustment combined with a cast iron base, attention to detail can be seen and appreciated with touches like the rosewood knob and handle, frog and lever caps, and also the knurled brass adjusting nuts.

This is the alternative choice to our worthy mention review and is for the smoothing plane traditionalists that like the worthy mention but would prefer it to be shorter in length. This smoothing plane is sized at 6. Featuring a cast iron base, frog and lever caps, chip breakers and knurled brass nuts for adjusting the set up. A wood plane is a woodworking hand tool, it can be used to shape, smooth and reduce timber thickness. There are many different types of wood planes, each plane has their own part to play in how a carpenter, cabinet maker, or indeed anyone who likes to work with wood wants their woodworking task to look.

Traditionally a hand plane would be human powered, but there are electrically powered versions available that do help with big woodworking projects. Stanley woodworking hand planes are a firm favourite with woodworkers, Stanley is renowned for producing high-quality, reliable planes.

Chances are that you will have seen a Stanley plane if you have visited woodworking workshops as they are often the first choice plane for everyday use. If you are new to woodworking then you should start off with a small block plane. Starting off with a small block plane makes sense as you can try out and gain experience using it on different wooden surfaces and trying out various angles.

As a second choice plane to start off with, go for a Jack plane. A Jack plane is an extremely versatile bench plane and can be used to flatten, smooth, shape, and straighten up timber to name just a few of its capabilities. If that's the case, put the thing back together and you're done.

Although, chances are you'll have to file, grind or cut the throat opening back some amount. With some machinist's layout fluid, color the sole of the plane just in front of the throat opening. Measure the amount of opening you want and scribe a square line through the layout fluid after it has dried. This is a fairly nasty chore so wear a full-face shield and a good dust mask.

Also make sure the plane body is securely held in a sturdy vise. Once you finish the coarse cutting, clean up the tool marks with a file and reduce any rough surfaces on the plane's sole that can scratch wood.

Honing a curved scrub plane blade can be challenging, but you'll find the hollow-ground blade surface left by the bench grinder gives you two positive points of contact to bear against a stone. Take it slow and try to keep both the cutting edge and the heel of the bevel riding on the stone as you swing the blade through the arc.

Also scrub planes don't work well when working parallel to a board like most planes, so plane across the board at a degree angle to prevent tear out. Try to plane down hill. All that means is that you should plane the board the way it wants to be planed. If the plane is sharp and tuned and you're getting bad results, try planning in the other direction.

Simple, egh? As you use your new scrub plane, you'll find it has a few advantages over the commercially available versions. The same lateral blade adjustment and blade advance wheel that helped you take a fine shaving when it was a smoothing plane are still useful and much more convenient than the wooden wedges or thumbscrew blade caps that come with new scrub planes.

Chris Black, a former longtime Highland employee, now spends most days caved up in his wood shop sharpening hand saws, teaching fine woodworking classes, selling antique tools and manufacturing a line of woodworking hand tools.

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