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sharpening-lathe-tools-without-jig-keys Bits to be sharpened Personal Protective Equipment — face sharpening lathe tools without jig keys and ear protection are vital. In keyz materials a larger relief angle can be used to allow faster cutting. Felt-tipped marker A marker offers the easiest way to lahe a tool rest to match an existing angle. I tested these bits without adding chip control angles to get a feel for how they work. Woodcraft Magazine. The key to easy resharpening is making it easy to reproduce the angles initially ground into the bit, exactly what the jig accomplishes. The trick is knowing when a tool needs a touch-up, before the damage is done.

View our Privacy Policy here. Toggle navigation subscribe. How to Sharpen Metal Lathe Tools. Written by Doityourself Staff. What You'll Need.

Eye protection. Bench grinder. Rubber gloves. Dry cloth. Diamond sharpening tool. How to Remove a Microwave Door. Sharpening Push Lawn Mower Blades. Surface Grinder Operation Basics. Proper Bench Grinder Techniques Explained.

How to Bullnose Granite. Related Posts Any knife makers here? I got a question I recently bought a chef's knife at a garage sale and I think it's a fairly Read More. Metal lath and scratch coat question. General question about lath and scratch. I am working on a hearth and will How do I wire this motor for use in , 25A? I pulled this motor off an old treadmill without paying attention to the wi Both sides of my grinder are outfitted with grit Norton 3x wheels. I find that these wheels remove material quickly and produce an edge that I can use without additional honing.

With the rest horizontal at the height of the wheel axis, touch the tool against the wheel and slide it sideways to flatten and clean the surface. Grinding wheels require frequent dressing. A marker offers the easiest way to set a tool rest to match an existing angle. Color the edge of the tool and then touch it to the stone. Skew chisels require honing. Designed for cutting straight, accurate diameters and for separating a turning from the waste portion of a blank, a parting tool is a cross between a cutting tool and a scraper.

Because the tip is at the thickest part of the shaft, a diamond parting tool can take deep cuts without the sides binding in the kerf. Note: A lower angle will produce a cleaner cut, but it tends to break down quickly when used for scraping. Then, gently push the edge against the wheel.

Focus on removing an equal amount from both faces so that the point remains centered on the tool. Stop as soon as the edge is square and you feel a Sharpening Lathe Tools Without Jig Factor burr. This burr is what gives scrapers the ability to produce glassy smooth surfaces. Adjust the tool rest so that the face of the bevel meets the contour of the wheel. To ensure that the angles match, color the tip of the tool with a marker and touch it against the wheel. Adjust the platform until the wheel touches the middle of the bevel.

Note: Some turners polish off the burr on a buffing wheel, and then use a burnisher to draw a burr. I find that more frequent grinding is faster and easier than hand-drawing a burr. A spindle roughing gouge turns blanks into cylinders; it can also turn basic shapes, such as tapers. Note that this tool is for spindles only. It is not intended for bowl turning. Adjust the angle of a flat rest so that the tool bevel rides against the stone.

Now turn on the grinder, and with the tool parallel to the wheel, touch the tip of the tool. Lay the tool on the rest, and slowly push the gouge toward the wheel. When the tip contacts the wheel, use one hand to keep the tool against the table and rotate the gouge until you reach the other side, and then reverse direction.

As you grind, focus on holding the gouge firmly on the rest and keeping its end square to the wheel. When sparks come over the top of the tool, you should be done. In my opinion, freehand grinding is safer and just as accurate. The spindle gouge is designed to cut curves, coves, and other detailed profiles on spindles and bowls.

Unlike a roughing gouge, this profile has a longer, tapered point, with cut-back shoulders designed to stay clear of the cut. Sharpening a spindle gouge requires more practice than other tools because the tool is rolled against the grinding wheel while simultaneously being slid up higher on the wheel to grind the wings. Unlike a basic gouge, you cannot simply set the tool on the rest. To facilitate this two-step process, I set my resting hand on the V-rest as shown above left.

I think this method keeps your hand a safer distance from the wheel. With the grinder off, set the gouge on your resting hand and slide it forward Sharpening Lathe Tools Without Jig 95 until the middle section of the bevel touches the upper half of the wheel, and then allow it to tip away from the wheel.

Now with the grinder on, raise the handle until the full bevel touches the wheel. As you rotate the tool, simultaneously push it up on the grinding wheel, as shown.

Repeat this process on one side until sparks come over the edge and inside the flute. Then repeat the procedure on the other side of the bevel. A common lathe bit approaches the work from the right so the left edge must be relieved as well as the front of the bit. The SCE may be perpendicular to the work leftmost tool in picture or angled to the right; this is called the SCE angle.

SCE joins the end cutting edge sometimes via a radius and then the tool end angles away from the work. This is called the end cutting edge angle. The final point on the end of the tool which touches the work just before the end relief angle is called the "finishing point" because the finish left on the work depends on this point.

Cutting forces on the tool are large so to minimize wear and damage to the cutting edges they need as much support as possible from the surrounding tool material, especially the finishing point. A radius on this sharp corner would be stronger and would wear less. However, radius corners are more prone to produce chatter. Therefore, St. To further protect the important finishing point, a smaller angle can be used just prior to the finishing point to further thin the chip, providing even more protection for the finishing point.

In addition to reducing wear on the finishing point this shallow angle improves the resulting finish. This is effectively a dual tool with a roughing section followed by a finishing section.

I've seen 3 separate chips, each going in a different direction, from this type of tool - looks peculiar but works fine. The width of this section should be 1. Again, if too wide it can induce chatter. Cutting forces are always perpendicular to the cutting edge so the first tool shown has all the force along the axis of the work.

By angling the SCE some force is perpendicular to the work axis so it takes up any slack in the cross feed - this is often an important aid to minimizing chatter in machines that have a bit of backlash The top of the tools shown above have been left flat: no side rake or back rake. While it is commonly thought that back rake reduces power required, St. Clair cites tests showing this not to be the case. Mainly, he uses back rake for chip control. Side rake does reduce power required plus it can be used to control chip direction - the chip effectively flows down hill.

The chip naturally flows perpendicular to the cutting edge so some side rake may be helpful to counter this in controlling chip direction. Back rake is generally used in combination with side rake to control the direction and type of chip produced.

Often, it is used to produce a chip breaker by angling the chip down so when it comes to the resulting rise it doubles back on itself causing the chip to break. If the chip coils and moves along the depression then side rake can be added to slow its progress so it does coil into itself and break. On brass, negative back rake may be used to avoid self-feeding. When a tool with back rake is resharpened the cutting point becomes lower so after several resharpening cycles it is so low it must be ground away and you start over; this uses HSS up faster and requires more grinding time so back rake is used only when required.

The chip, which normally flows perpendicularly from the cutting edge, runs into this rise which either bends it enough to break it or causes it to coil onto itself and break. Adjust side rake of the shelf if necessary. The picture at right shows a chip breaker, where the finishing point shows a little wear.

Tool height should be set to put the finishing point on center. When side rake is used the leading edge of the tool won't be on center; because of the small edge angles on the bit it takes some effort to see and adjust the height properly. Improper height will cause poorer tool performance so take the time to get this right. The aluminum pieces are set at the angles written on them in the picture: 30, 10, and -5 degrees.

The screws are cut off and sanded flush on the bottom. This jig isn't from the book -- it's my simplistic interpretation to implement the book's suggestions easily. Bits produced with this jig all look similar i. The grinder must provide a guide to keep the jig oriented so its long side is parallel to the wheel axis, as shown in the first picture where the miter is used for alignment.

An alternative for grinders that don't have a miter is shown below.

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