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sam-maloof-oil-effect View Sam Maloof artworks sold at auction to research and compare prices. Subscribe to access price results for , artists!  Sam Maloof furniture is synonymous with high-quality woodworking. Throughout the 20th century, Sam Maloof rocking chairs graced the homes of celebrities and U.S. presidents, and one currently sits in the Smithsonian American Art Museum. A self-taught master woodworker, Maloof is the creator of thousands of handcrafted wooden chairs. He was born in California in and immediately took a liking to woodworking, carving toys for himself as a child. After making furniture for his own home following his marriage, close friends began asking him to carve pieces for their houses. Alone inside was Sam Maloof oiling a rocking chair. I was such a star-struck wimp that I quickly sped past to the check-in counter for chickens. The Anderson Ranch woodworking classroom was two columns of workbenches. I took the very last bench because I would not like to look around, or over, a 6’3″ awestruck fellow like me who hogged the view. On the third or fourth day an interesting thing happened. Sam’s glasses broke at the bridge and for the rest of the class, they were held together with white tape – Hanson-brother style for you hockey fans. The significance of this event was transforma. ВКонтакте – универсальное средство для общения и поиска друзей и одноклассников, которым ежедневно пользуются десятки миллионов человек. Мы хотим, чтобы друзья, однокурсники, одноклассники, соседи и коллеги всегда оставались в контакте. Also, I still have to find shredded bees wax and not quite sure where to get that. I've applied four coats now, should be good and it already looks great but I simply cannot judge what the wax mixture will add to it. The reason I ask is I always like sam maloof oil effect leave some finish with the clients so they can do the occasional sam maloof oil effect up. Right I sort of figured as much. InMaloof relocated to Alta Loma, California. As the Comment above from keshlam rightly says, Maloof experimented until he got the effect he liked the most. Folks who either like that exact finish or are interested in experimenting with it because he endorsed it, and who don't want to deal with trying to recreate the proportions and preparation, made it a viable commercial product.

Qualitatively what is the difference in a finish with using something like this e. Do they serve different purposes in the finishing world? On a related note this seems really easy to make. Looked at a certain way it's because it combines the worst of both materials, something I don't say lightly. Excellent question. The answer might be a very uncomfortable one for fans of Maloof's work or of the finish on their own pieces: it's likely to be softer and more easily marred.

There's no getting away from these. It's because they're soft that neither should be applied as a surface coating of any significant thickness. As the Comment above from keshlam rightly says, Maloof experimented until he got the effect he liked the most.

He was going for appearance, and possibly feel, over wear characteristics I promise you, because an oil finish normally would never go over a film-building finish — oil finishes are supposed to go in the wood, not on the wood for a very good reason.

If you don't wipe off the excess after using BLO on a piece and let it fully 'dry' might take a month or more you'll easily see why. I think the nature of Maloof's work should be strongly borne in mind in considering his choice of finish; even before he had a big name and became one of the brightest stars of American woodworking his work was what you might class as art furniture, or fine furniture if you prefer.

Stuff like this is, to be blunt, intended to be babied. They're not daily users in a busy household with young kids! Well not unless the pieces are safely locked in a room the kids don't have access to I think anyone who currently uses it or is tempted to either bought or made at home should think carefully about the role of the tung oil in a mixture that already contains linseed oil.

What purpose does it actually serve? No you're not wrong and I always encourage people to make this kind of thing themselves, rather than buy a commercial version which are sometimes disproportionately expensive. The cost is only part of it though, by making something yourself you get a better appreciation for the materials, you can tailor the mixture to suit your own tastes, the local conditions and other factors.

The above points are often emphasised in guides on making homemade versions of blended finishes, others being "Danish oil", "tung oil finish" and "teak oil". But a key aspect that's often not expressly stated is that it means you have all of the primary ingredients separately.

They are far more useful and versatile as individual components than in a single readymade mixture. Commercial paste waxes are typically a blend of one or more waxes, e. Later he attended Chino High School. Shortly after completing high school, Maloof began working in the art department of the Vortox Manufacturing Company in Claremont, California. He was drafted into the United States Army on October Maloof Oil Effect 11, Maloof was one of the few soldiers who had a camera, and while not trained as a photographer, Maloof took 1, photographs which were "alive and clear and informative.

After completing his service, Maloof left the army in to return to Southern California. Maloof married Alfreda Ward on June 27, and the couple moved Sam Maloof Finish 500 into a house at Plaza Serena, Ontario, California , where Sam set up a furniture workshop in the garage. Mostly from necessity, Maloof designed and built a suite of furniture for his home using salvaged materials.

Commissioned pieces followed and, from to , Maloof continued working in the garage of his Ontario home. In , Maloof relocated to Alta Loma, California. Over time, he added 16 rooms, including a furniture-making shop and studio, to the original 6-room house. President Jimmy Carter came to his home and signed a photograph that said, "to my woodworking hero. Maloof's chairs, for which he is perhaps most famous, have a sculptural quality about them, yet are also very ergonomic, and austere in their simplicity.

They can be characterized by completely rounded over corners at mortise and tenon joints which are always plainly visible ; carved ridges and spines, particularly on the arm rests; decorative Ebony dowels; deep, dished-out seats Sam Maloof Oil Zara always made from several boards glued together ; and clear finishes.

On larger pieces, he often used Poplar in areas that would not be visible during ordinary use. He was described by the Smithsonian Institution as "America's most renowned contemporary furniture craftsman" and People magazine dubbed him "The Hemingway of Hardwood. In Mr. Maloof became the first craftsman to receive a MacArthur fellowship ; and despite such recognition, he declined to identify himself as an artist.

JJ Wavra Posts: Thanks guys, that does help. So in the end I can use non boiled linseed, that's good to know. I will try to score some tung oil but have never seen it here so might fall back on oil poly. Anyway, I feel much more confident now. The second mix brings up other questions though Do I heat that mix or just stir it? By not applying the second mix, what do I loose?

Is it less pretty or also less strong, maybe less water resistant? Cheers, Bob. Ken Nagrod Restricted Posts: I thought that linseed oil that wasn't truly boiled linseed oil, took forever to dry? CharlesWilson Posts: I can guarantee that Maloof didn't adopt that recipe on a whim.

Quote from: davee on August 08, , AM. Thanks again for the feedback everyone! I did find boiled linseed oil today and made some samples with two lacquers I thought might qualify. However, the only polyurethane I could find was water based. Although I know way too little when it comes to finishes, I figured that water wouldn't go well with the oil.

Anyway, I made samples with two lacquers, one was called 'boat varnish' and the other I can't recall at the moment. I used equal measures for the three parts but ended up with something very very thin in both cases. The first samples looked ok, however my gut feeling was thicker would be better.

Plus I have no idea yet how these product Sam Maloof Oil differ from the poly as used in Maloofs mix. Eventually I passed by a pro shop and explained the man what I wanted to do. He needed to digest the idea of mixing lacquer with linseed oil for a couple of minutes but eventually called some tech guy from his main brand and we've found something I hope. It will arrive Friday, can't wait to try it!

This finish does turn into more work than foreseen especially with the second wax mix but I'm determined to make this work. Plus I want to read up on finishing soon, very annoying I'm completely in the dark here. Thanks again, will report back with pics of the table.

Ps; that bench looks killer Davee, thanks for sharing. Hi all, Although I don't have the pics yet to proof it, I did manage to find a great quality poly and boiled linseed oil and this finish has turned out smashing!!

I mean, the walnut has a deep dark tone that is just yummy and like Davee's wife says, you really do see the wood and not the finish.

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