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radial-arm-saw-workbench-plans-manual Stationary RADIAL ARM SAW Model No. Save this manual for future reference.  RADIAL ARM SAW. If this product fails due to a defect in material or workmanship within one year from the date of purchase, Sears will repair it, free of charge, Contact a Sears Service Center for repair. If this product is used for. Radial-Arm Saw Stopblock Woodworking Plan from WOOD Magazine. Woodworking Saws. Woodworking Techniques.  Craftsman radial arm saw parts - manufacturer-approved parts for a proper fit every time! We also have installation guides, diagrams and manuals to help you along the way! Self-cleaning radial-arm saw table. It doesn’t take much dust nestled in the corner between a radial-arm saw’s fence and table to mess up an otherwise accurate cut.  Radial Arm Saw Table. Miter Saw Bench. Simple Workbench Plans. Workshop Plans. Radial Arm Saw Dust Collector. Radial arm saws are notorious for holding their square setup for about three cuts. I would also suggest cutting rough lengths on it and getting a good miter saw for finish cuts. The problem with the setup on the RAS is that the fence is almost always in some way separate from the saw itself.  From contributor D: Find the manual for the saw. It will show you how to set the saw up and the sequence. First step first, or squareness, camber and level will not be achieved. If you follow the manual closely and remove all looseness in column (adjustable screws), then it will remain quite true. Have there been any issues with Craftsman RAS with the brake system to stop blade from spinning after nanual shut doen? He died 20 years ago and I have no idea where that motor or that saw are today. See the second photo. Answer 7 weeks ago. The crank that raises and lowers the column can be gently tweaked to make the blade radial arm saw workbench plans manual to the leg of the square.

Almost complete. When the top is finished, it will have a common fence for both saws. There are a number of sort of woodworking tools that are utilized while carving different things out from wood.

A few of the most crucial ones are Woodworking Lathe, Woodworking router, woodworking saws and many more. Woodworking Lathe: Used for Knurling, woodturning, metal spinning, glass working and metal working, Woodworking Lathe is a….

Currently in my shop I am limited on my number of larger tools. I have a miter saw that I have been using for all of my cross-cuts and a circular saw for ripping down sheet goods. However, after watching many videos on Youtube of the capabilities A government video to illustrate the alleged dangers of a saw without the floating blade guards shows the operator with his hand flat on the table in the path of the blade.

No one with any intelligence would ever place his hand in the path of the blade like that. The proposed floating blade guards would not save a hand firmly on the saw table in front of the blade travel, anyway. I prefer to keep my hands away from the blade and continue to use the saw just as I have done very safely for the last 40 years. Heel results in burn marks on at least one side of the cut.

You can also detect heel when the blade kicks up splinters as it exits the cut at the rear of the cut. Use a framing square to check for heel. Set one leg against the fence. Bring the other leg against the saw blade. If there is no heel, the square and the saw blade will meet consistently from the front of the blade to the rear.

If there is a "V"-shaped gap, the blade has some heel that will need to be removed. The hammer in the first photo is supporting the square so I can check for heel below the motor shaft for more accuracy.

In the second photo my finger points to one of the two bolts that lock down the indexing pin mount. Loosen these two bolts a moderate amount and the pin mount can slide left or right. Hold the indexing pin up and rotate the yoke until the square indicates the heel is gone. Gently lock the yoke in place. Push the indexing pin mount to the right of the photo and lock it down with the two bolts. Loosen the yoke and swing it back into place. Tighten the yoke lever.

Check settings with the square again. The most certain test is to make some cuts in some wood and see how the saw performs. This can be a very tedious process. I think I have it just right, but when I loosen the yoke and swing it Amf Dewalt Radial Arm Saw Manual into position against the indexing pin, I learn I am "off" a fraction of a degree, perhaps more.

I have found a fine adjustment is not too difficult if I tighten the knob that locks the yoke assembly in place on the arm, loosen the chromed lever that locks down the yoke, pull the yoke pin about halfway out of its socket It is tapered, which allows some control over how much the yoke can turn under these conditions.

Then swing the yoke into position again and check alignment. See the third photo for a helpful set up. When using this set up, move the square to the other side of the motor and check the reading on the rule. Tweak until the reading from both sides is the same. Mechanical things do wear. Indexing holes that were once precise can wear at differing rates so that a saw adjusted for good crosscuts with no heel show quite a bit of heel on rip cuts.

See this Instructable for my relatively simple solution to restore accuracy to the indexing holesthir. All radial arm saw adjustments have some play in them. The suggestion is to set the saw up so that you always remove play by nudging the part being positioned in the same direction. I chose always to take the play out by nudging the parts in a clockwise direction. That means sliding the pin mount to the right in the photo before locking it down with the bolts after the chromed lever on the right side of the saw was loosened and the yoke was rotated to remove any heel so the chromed lever could be tightened again.

Make some crosscuts and some rip cuts in some scrap wood and check the cuts for heel and for square. If everything went well, you now have a very precisely adjusted radial arm saw. As mentioned in the Introduction, radial arm saws do go out of adjustment through use, through moving them, and through knocks and bumps that seem to be inevitable in a workshop. Most users will check all of the major settings for accuracy before beginning any important special project.

It is important to set up the saw in the steps shown here because later settings are dependent upon earlier settings being precise. Question 7 weeks ago. I just got the saw that is conveniently in the instructions above. Everything is pretty rusted and seized but nothing i cant clean up and the motor does work but there is one problem and its that the bevel adjustment doesn't work and I cant get the handle away from the yoke.

I can get it to move by giving it some firm taps with a dead-blow but I was wondering if anyone had tips for trying take it off so I can get rid of anything thats binding in it. I took the 4 bolts out and the know out but it is just stuck. Answer 7 weeks ago. I assume you removed the four screws around the knob and the handle on the front side. On the back side of the motor yoke from the handle is another pivot point for the motor bevel.

It is held by a hex head bolt on either side of the pivot. Make a mark around it so you can locate it precisely later. Remove the hex head bolts and see if you can rock the motor down and out of the yoke. Then you can address any corrosion that impedes the motor tilting right or left. The handle and motor support parts are cast aluminum.

The yoke is cast iron. Getting penetrating oil into the area around the handle and tapping on it a little could not hurt, either. Question 6 months ago on Step Have there been any issues with Craftsman RAS with the brake system to stop blade from spinning after power shut doen?

I see all the parts in that system are no longer avaailable. Answer 6 months ago. I do not know the history of problems with the saw you mention. I have used my saw a lot. I am sure it does not stop as fast as it once did. But, I have not replaced the brake pad faces. I know parts for various Sears radial arm saws are Often sold on eBay.

Question 1 year ago. I order new rails but having trouble implementing your wedge idea. The rails only stick out about an inch past the rear table with a round hole for the clamp. I thought about just securing the rear table to the rails using screws from the bottom once the alignment is dialed in. Do you think this will work? I never remove the fence or rear table anyways. I also thought about putting a piece of angle aluminum along the back table to give the clamps a solid flat surface to press against.

Answer 1 year ago. Welcome to Instructables. I think I would try to restore use of the screw clamps that came with your saw, if at all possible. I do not think you want to make the piece behind the fence narrower cut the table short. The blade needs to behind the fence when the motor is pushed toward the column, and for that the pieces behind the fence need to be as wide as they are.

I hipe some of this helps. Reply 1 year ago. Thank you! If I use the screw clamps then the rails will be just perfect. I just ordered a sheet of 1 inch mdf from the lumber yard so I should fine. Just use the old table as a template. What do you think of putting a piece of angle iron or aluminum along the back of the table to give the screw clamps a flat surface to press against?

You can certainly try aluminum or steel on the edge of the table piece as needed. I know it is sometimes hard to find metal pieces that are actually straight. You can also add a screw to the table piece where it wants to rise. The screw would go down through each rail. Leave it a little less than tight so it can move to tighten the fence, but tight enough that it cannot rise. You would probably need to countersink the head so it is not in the way of anything.

Question 1 year ago on Step I have a model I am not sure, but I am guessing you cannot tilt the motor to cut an edge at a bevel. If that is correct, I would suspect corrosion on the mating surfaces between the parts. I would try letting penetrating oil soak into the assembly. Maybe tao gently on it periodically to break possible corrosion while the oil is soaking in.

If you would like, add a photo to be sure we are talking sbout the same thing. I have the same saw and I'm missing the knob underneath the pull handle to tilt the saw head. So I need that knob for the saw head to tilt? And if so can I just put a bolt in the hole or do I need the actual knob?

Reply 4 years ago. There is some play without the knob. I would not want to use the saw if the knob were missing. But, I am quite certain it is a standard bolt and thread size assuming you live where English sizes rather than metric are the norm. You should be able to find that knob on eBay. Or, a member of Instructsbles has quite a few parts for these saws.

I could ask him if I might give you his name for contact. Another option is to put a knob end on a short bolt with wood or something else, or bend a bolt so it has an "L" shape for a handle. I worked on it some more last night and concluded a rewind is necessary. I think I'll take your advice and keep the motor in the yoke. The stator coils can be removed from the motor housing for rewinding. I'll let you know how it turns out.

If the cost of a rewind is prohibitive, you might find a motor ready to go at eBay. Or, one Instructsbles member contacted me to say he has been collecting Craftsman radial arm saw parts. I could ask him if he would mind if you contact him. Something extraordinary happened yesterday - a guy in my city put a Craftsman RAS up for sale on Craigslist, and it happens to be the exact model I have.

It has a motor that runs great, but some other parts that are missing. Best of all, he's asking a very reasonable price. I'm picking it up this afternoon. So now I'll be able to re-build a really good saw from two old ones!

Sometimes things line up just right, don't they? Also, I'll have parts left over, so I should probably link up with the other member you mentioned. Have a great weekend! Your Craigslist find sounds like a great solution. My father-in-law had one of these saws. He used it in a big construction project for himself. He was always certain he would burn out a motor, so he got ahold of a second motor.

He never needed it. He died 20 years ago and I have no idea where that motor or that saw are today. I used my saw enough that I replaced the motor bearings after about a dozen years. The switch is a problem. The switch came from Radio Shack, and I have replaced it once. I think Lowe's or Home Depot might have something similar enough. Thanks so much for your postings related to RAS machines. I recently bought a vintage that stood in a barn for about 20 years.

I hope to restore it being an optimist! Question: I am trying to remove the motor from the yoke. I can get the handle-side disengaged easily, but I can't seem to remove the mounting bushing on the opposite side. Do I just bend the yoke outwards? I don't want to break it. I'd appreciate any advice you can give. The only time I removed my saw's motor the saw was new. Do you really need to remove the motor?

Does the bevel adjustment work now? If it does, I would not remove the motor. If you do not have one, find and look at a manual on-line. Be careful about taking things apart only to look inside and clean them or paint them. One commenter took the brake assembly inside the arm apart and had a lot Radial Arm Saw Workbench Plans Set of difficulty getting it back together in working order. Thanks for the reply, Phil. I'd love not to remove the motor, but I'm thinking about giving it a coat of paint, and the yoke as well.

I can skip it if it's too much trouble. What I'm more concerned about is whether I need to take it to a motor shop. At the moment I'm having trouble getting it going. I've replaced the capacitor but it still turns slowly.

Problem is, the previous owner removed the thermal protection switch and just twisted the remaining wires together. It's all a jumble now and I'm trying to sort out which wires go to the main winding, which to the aux winding, etc. Even it I get it sorted out, I may find it necessary to re-wind the motor there is an armature shop nearby I trust.

At that point I'll need to remove it from the yoke, etc I would talk to an electric motor shop and ask if the motor could be serviced while it is still in the yoke. I do not have any information on the wiring of the motor coils, other than what is on the lid to the connections box on top of the motor. The safety video for that recall is silly.

No one plants his hand on the line of the saw's travel and then uses the saw live. By Phil B Follow. More by the author:. About: I miss the days when magazines like Popular Mechanics had all sorts of DIY projects for making and repairing just about everything.

Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Incredible Wooden Spirals by rschoenm in Woodworking. Hayden Hiegel Question 7 weeks ago. Answer Upvote. Phil B Hayden Hiegel Answer 7 weeks ago.

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