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This website uses cookies to improve your experience. We'll assume you're ok with this, but you can opt-out if you wish. Worked very nicely for me, anyway. Things are getting seriously neat, now. This thing rides forward and back on the carriage well, on a piece of steel bolted to the carriage.

So - the carriage goes left and right; the cross-slide goes forward and back I'm pretty pleased with how well this casting turned out. The wood pattern is coated with spray shellac, which works pretty well, and is grayish because I'm using powdered graphite as a parting dust and mold release in English: "to slick it up so the two mold halves come apart at the right place, and so the pattern comes outa the sand".

I'm not sure graphite's the best choice, but it seems to be working. The whole thing is driven forward and back by a threaded rod through the "handle" at the left; the rod goes into the "tunnel" in the carriage casting.

Here's a picture of the bottom -- as with the carriage, there are 'pads' that ride along the steel 'ways'. My next step is to drill and tap the side for 3 screws just like the carriage -- these will adjust and hold it to the ways with a gib again, more on that later. The cross-slide has two jobs: the bottom part rides forward and backward on the carriage; the top provides a rotational surface for the "compound swivel base" the thingy that rotates so you can get different angles.

To review -- the carriage goes lefty-righty; the cross-slide goes fronty-backy; and the compound swivel base coming soon to a theater near you! I thought I'd polish up the round "pad" that the CSB goes on. I had a wood disc from making the pattern, with a conveniently located center hole, so I just stuck on a sandpaper disc, put an arbor from gawd-knows-what through it, and started polishing.

You can see it's about half done, mostly on the right side away from the 'handle". Looks nice! Might even be worth some of the effort. One of the big premises of the Gingery books is that you can build your own entire machine shop out of old shoelaces, that one thing in that drawer in the kitchen that has kind of a threaded part and probably belongs to something so don't throw it out, and that old tractor part the previous tenant left in the basement, so it's all free.

Well, to echo what a few people have pointed out, I coulda just gone to Harbor "'cause the Chinese work for free! So there. That said - here's the first of a few shots of the tools I've used on the project. The Orange Book thanks be to Dave emphasizes that you mostly just need a drill and a hacksaw -- well, Metal Lathe Cutting Tools Near Me ummm, hah.

The hammer handle on the left is for ramming up the sand molds. At the top is a circle-cutter from Sears for my drill-press -- handy for the compound-slide pattern and a few other things. Continuing clockwise: a metal scribe for marking the multiple steel ways. You can get great results with a masonry nail because it's high-quality steel ground to a point -- don't get it hotter than hand-comfortable, or re-harden and re-temper it if you do.

Next is a fat dowel you'll need for a sprue plug -- I'd also suggest a short length of thin-walled metal tubing of some kind for cutting sprues and risers. You'll need a few sizes of taps, and possibly an exterior threading die -- easy to find, but not super-cheap. You'll need some tapping fluid or a tap-lubricant "crayon" - cheap. And - you will most probably break at least one tap. Then, you'll swear like a sailor -- taps are made out of VERY hard metal.

It's a fine and delicate art to actually REMOVE a broken tap -- it's usually easier to junk the part and start over -- new part, new tap. My advice? Never, ever, drink-and-thread. Finally, in the center, is a cheap crappy "wrench" I hate to call it that -- it's just stamped metal that came with some dang thing we bought.

But it seems to be ideal for rapping a pattern out of a mold. Put wood mold in casting sand. Screw screws or screw-eyes into previously drilled holes in wood pattern. Using cheap crappy "wrench", rattle the screws about so as to loosen wood mold from sand and slightly compact sand about said mold. More tools, supplies you may or will need: Layout fluid - fast-drying blue stuff to spray on metal you want to mark for cutting, drilling, etc.

For coating a metal surface you want to make Very Flat. Eye protection - every time a chip of very hot, sharp metal hits my cheek at high speed, I say a little prayer of thanks that I'm wearing these. And I'm not religious. My rule is this: when my hand touches a power switch, I am wearing eye protection. It is SO easy to think "this quick little cut won't be a big deal" -- and have a tiny piece of wood or metal shoot straight at your eye. They do NOT yet have artificial eyeballs on the market, as far as I'm aware.

If you touch a power switch -- you're wearing eye protection. End of story. Learn it. Live it. Enjoy stereoscopic vision for the rest of your life. It's easy - and it's free. Other tools -- an automatic center-punch - quite handy. A "Dremel"-style tool - if you do everything perfectly, you won't need this.

And, if you do, please contact me. I have some walking-on-water jobs for you. See above comment on Doing Everything Perfectly. You cut off what you need, knead it until the color is uniform, and press it into place. It will take a thread, can be drilled, etc.

Now we're starting to see the whole thing come together. The blue parts are the bases and the bed, supporting the "ways". It's pretty solid and heavy, but actually can flex a bit -- which is why it's important for the bed to be very, very precisely flat, as the ways will be bolted quite tightly to the bed and thus follow its flatness or lack thereof.

The bed I cast, as you may recall, has a nearly 2mm dip in the center. That may sound like very little, but in fact would result in unacceptable imprecision -- most machine-tool work is specified in terms of thousandths of an inch. The green piece is the carriage. Then, the cross-slide ways the 7" long x 2" wide piece of steel will be bolted to the carriage, and a screw with a crank-handle will be installed in the cross-slide so, when I turn the handle, the cross-slide will go back and forth.

Then, the compound swivel base coming soon will be installed on top of THAT, so I can turn the cutting tool clockwise or counterclockwise. Here's the compound swivel base. A 5" piece of steel goes on top of IT, for the final thingy to ride on. That 'final thingy' is the Compound Slide -- and it holds the actual 'tool' -- a sharp bit of very hard steel -- which ultimately cuts the workpiece.

Where are we, now? Well, let's pretend we want to make a chess piece -- a pawn, say -- about an inch across at the base. We'd need to put a piece of inch-diameter metal in the lathe. We'd need to move the cutting tool left-and-right to cut from the top of the pawn to the bottom using the carriage, controlled by a 2' long threaded rod we'll discuss later.

We'll need to cut more deeply and more shallowly to shape the various contours -- that's the cross-slide. And, finally, we'll need to alter the angle of the cutting tool to shape, say, the round head of the pawn -- the compound.

All of this is in place. Mostly what's left is the stuff to actually hold the workpiece a headstock and tailstock -- like the two jaws of a vise, except in this case they allow the piece to spin ; and the motor to turn it. Reply 1 year ago. Now I still make parts, I just don't cast 'em. You can see some of that at corradiniknives.

I should put the glasses on! I am learning! Reply 6 years ago on Introduction. One day, he was working on the tablesaw and a bit of a cutoff got caught by the blade and flung at him, which I understand was probably around mph depending on blade diameter and air resistance.

It hit him in the nose. He spent some time in surgery, with a plastic surgeon, to repair his nose, which had had a dime-sized chunk torn out of it. His nose, like most of ours, was an inch or so from his eyes, which were unprotected "just this one time because It'd be tough - but not impossible! Not ONE time. Why NOT!?!? Get a cord, put 'em around your neck when you walk INTO your shop, put 'em on as a habit.

It's a lot easier than making decisions as to "when". Just DO. Reply 5 years ago. Safety glasses - every time. Thank you UVEX! We're actually using a different cover sheet now. We're putting them on all the TPS reports. Did you get that memo? Because we're putting the cover sheet on all outgoing TPS reports now Ummm, I'm gonna need you to go ahead come in tomorrow. So if you could be here around 9 that would be great, mmmk We ahh lost some people this week and ah, we sorta need to play catch up.

I'm just about finished with my own Gingery Style Lathe, which turned out quite nice. Anyways, I've documented the project quite a bit, so if anyone is interested in seeing some videos, photos, etc.. Reply 7 years ago on Introduction. Lindsay Publications is "Out Of Business"!! Does everybody knows you can get all of the books from "Dave Gingerly" from Google Books for free?

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