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making-a-router-box-joint-jig-in More by the author:. I have somewhat limited experience with jig-making. Thanks a bunch for sharing. Make Something. Chris Marshall: Making box joints with a handheld router is going to require a clamp-on template system and an extremely accurate one, at that. If you decide to build your jig to a different gauge, then make replace all the measurements here with the desired width.

This will change the size of the fingers. You will only need to move the pin over about the thickness of a business card. To do so, loosen your clamps slightly and nudge your board over. Tighten and repeat Steps 8 and 9. Once you get that perfect fit, you can then screw your pin board to your sled or miter gauge.

In this example I chose not to screw it in and just left the clamps on. First, mark the top of each of the four box pieces — you can line them up and make a mark all at once. This mark is key to our success and will always face toward the pin when cutting the fingers. Set your table saw blade height to just a hair higher than the thickness of your boards. We will start off with the two long pieces. Start making your fingers with the mark facing toward the pin. Cut all the fingers just as you did with the test piece, along the entire end.

Flip the board over and cut the fingers Free Router Table Box Joint Jig Plans on the other end. Again, make sure the mark is facing inside, toward the pin. First, take one of the completed long sides and place it over the pin. Position the short side up against the long piece, once again making sure the marks on both pieces face inward, toward the pin.

While holding both pieces tightly up against the fence you can run your board through the blade making that first cut in the short side. Once you finish cutting the fingers on the short side end, you can flip the board over and cut the fingers on the opposite. One more time, make sure the marks on both pieces are facing inward toward the pin. Do I sound like a broken record yet? Those marks are key to a successful glue-up! After completing the fingers on the short piece, repeat Steps 15—18 on the remaining short piece.

If the joints were cut correctly your box will self-square. Make sure your marks are all facing up and everything should go together like a puzzle. Use clamps to keep it tight while the glue sets. Sometimes you may find tiny gaps after glue-up because of blow-out or fibers chipping away during the cut. You can easily cover this up by mixing up some sawdust and wood glue and filling the gap. Once the glue dries you can sand everything flush again.

This is a great trick for flawless-looking box joints. And now that you know the technique, you can build all sorts of great wooden projects, from tool totes to drawers to heirloom boxes. David Picciuto is extremely passionate about woodworking, making, and design. You can find out more about him and view more wood-working tutorials at MakeSomething. When you buy through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission.

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Out of these cookies, some are categorized as essential for the working of basic functionalities of our websites. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use our websites. It could be a disposable jig, or save it if you think you might use it again. Box joints can be any width you like, but for this setup you will be limited by the width of your stack of dado blades. In general, I think a lot of small box joints looks nicer than a few large joints.

The critical part of making box Making A Router Box Joint Jig Effect joints, is the depth that you cut them. Their depths need to be exactly the thickness of the boards you are joining.

Start by setting up a stack of dado blades to whatever width you want the fingers of your joint to be. Next, raise or lower the depth of the blades to match the thickness of the wood you are going to use for your project.

Raise the blades flush with the thickness of your workpiece. I prefer to use plywood because it its faces are perfectly flat without any twists or warps. Make it about twice as long as the width of your workpiece. Also, make it fairly tall to provide support for your workpiece. I like to use a scrap of hardwood. Cut an extra one to use as a measuring gauge. This pin should protrude out on one side of the fence only. Once that has dried for a few minutes, set your fence back against your miter gauge and slide it to one side of your dado stack, using that extra rod as a spacer to measure the distance between the pin and the edge of the blace.

Using a longer rod as a spacer to measure the distance from the pin to the edge of the blades. Begin by taking one end of your workpiece and butting it up against the pin and cutting a notch. This first cut will go all the way through the fence. Keep doing this all the way down the rest of the board.

Here, it ended up being a thin sliver. You need to start your next board with a notch at the end rather than a finger. The easiest way to line that up is to flip your first board around, drop it onto the pin, and butt the new board next to its edge. Pull the first board away and cut the notch. Continue all the way down the board. The last cut will leave a shallow notch to match the thin finger on the first board. Flipping the first board around.

The thin finger is on the outside. Drop the first notch onto the pin.

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