%!$ Easy Diy Woodworking Bench Plans For You #!@

how-to-build-a-wooden-box-seat Building a simple bench seating is easy, provided you follow the right plans for your needs.  This step by step diy project is about how to build a bench seat. If you need a simple bench without a back support, you should pay attention to the instructions described below. In addition, anyone can get the job done in just a few hours, as you need just basic woodworking skills and common materials. Even if you use the best materials, the bench shouldn’t cost more than dollars. In order to get a professional result, you need to pay attention to a few aspects. Therefore, on one hand, you should choose the wooden components with great attention. From our experience, choosing weather res. Deck Box Advice →. How to Waterproof a Wooden Box. 0. How to Waterproof a Wooden Box. Table of Contents. What you need.  1. Prepare the wooden box. A majority of wooden boxes are built with pressure-treated or untreated lumber. To prepare the box for waterproofing, you need to set it on a flat surface in a room. Let it rest for two to three weeks, especially if it has recently been assembled. This is done to allow the wood to dry properly and not seal in moisture. The waiting period also helps prevent the need for sealing joints in case they were to expand.  If the wooden box is used for storage, ensure it is above ground. You can use a metal rack to suspend the wooden box. That is how you waterproof a wooden box. Deck Box Advice. Related Posts. How To: Build a kitchen window seat. How To: Building a patio enclosure with seating walls. How To: Check and replace the fuses on a car. How To: Build an outdoor garden bench with Lowe's. How To: Reupholster a drop-in chair seat. How To: Replace a toilet seat like a professional.  News: This High Voltage Furniture Technique Burns Lightning Designs into Wood. How To: Make a magic wooden disappearing box. How To: Use a nail set & punch for woodworking. How To: Treat your furniture for bed bugs. Just How To Build A Toy Wooden Car Yoga the cedar boards and cedar fence pickets to build this storage bench. They are joined with two 45 degree miter cuts so they help keep your project square as you assemble all the necessary parts. Hope that helps! Doesn't it look nice painted!! Repeat this step on the other side.

Since she had her heart set on it, I offered a compromise: I'd build my own version of the bench, customized to her exact specifications, down to the paint color. With great reluctance, she finally agreed. On an occasion or two or 10 , I've promised to make something, then haven't.

But much to her surprise—and mine, too—I bought all the materials the next day and soon presented her with the bench shown here. As she says, it looks great. Here's how I built it. Click to see full printable plans for this classic bench plus a 3D animation of its pieces coming together, created by Alibre. I placed the plywood's best side facing down so any splintering would occur on the top's underside.

The dadoes, 4 in. To mark the arches of each end piece and the 1 x 4 pine apron, I simply bent a steel ruler to the desired radius and then traced along it with a pencil. I used a jigsaw to cut along each curve then smoothed the edges with grit sandpaper.

I began the assembly by spreading carpenter's glue into the end-piece dadoes. I like trim-heads because they don't need pilot holes and their tiny heads easily sink below the surface.

Once the shelf was attached, I cut a 1 x 2 cleat to fit between the upper rear corners of the ends. Holding the shelf in place with a bar clamp, I fastened it with trim-head screws. The cleat provides support when attaching the top and the beadboard planks. I attached the top with drywall screws but had to use two different lengths. To prevent the wood from splitting, I drilled screw-pilot and countersink holes into both the cleat and rail.

Then, I primed and attached the tongue-and-groove beadboard planks that make up the back of the bench. I filled all visible nail and screw holes with wood putty, let it dry and then sanded the surface smooth with a random-orbit sander fitted with grit sandpaper. Once the bench was fully assembled, I primed all remaining bare wood surfaces.

These ends will be hidden from sight and mitering the ends would have no effect on strength. The next step is to remove the baseboard and build the front wall frame.

I chose to build the wall next so I could insure it was parallel to the back wall. Alternatively you could mount the other 2x4s on the side walls, however, this seemed a simplier way to determine where the wall would actually be located. True to form, my floor had a crown in the middle and it was necessary to shim both ends. My design was for 4 front panels so I placed five 2x4 blocks in the front wall. These blocks are located behind where the poplar vertical trim pieces will be which allows for nailing.

Note the pocket screw holes in the blocks. The final steps are to add the 2x4s on the side walls and add some bracing for the top. Three 2x4 were installed between the front and back walls using pocket screws.

The middle 2x4 is centered and the outer 2x4s are located where the end of the lid will rest. For a project of this size, I find it easier to build a faceframe in my shop as opposed to installing each board individually. Although it is not important in this case, faceframes also add considerable strength. I build the faceframe to be 18" tall to accomodate the floor crowning which made the stiles vertical pieces roughly 11" long.

When this is installed, any gap will be along the floor and covered by the quarter round. Since the faceframe is shorter than the wall, it can be lifted flush with the top of the 2x4s before you nail it. Picture 2 shows the finished faceframe. Doesn't it look nice painted!! You may also notice that the 2 inside rectangles are slightly smaller than the outside rectangles. This is by design to make the box look less symmetrical and "exact".

When something you build is very precise and regular, it doesn't look natural. Nature is much more random than it is regular which can make a large symmetrical piece appear odd and less pleasing to the eye. When I have the opportunity, I try to add a bit of asymmetry to projects.

No one will be able to tell you why they like it better, but they will like it better. Now that the faceframe is ready, it's time to cover the front of the box. I don't have pictures of this step but it's very straight forward. The only edge which will be visible is along the top lip so position the beadboard flush with the top of the 2x4s.

Installing the faceframe is essentially the procedure. Run a bead of Liquid Nails on the back of the faceframe and nail it in place. Fill the nail holes with wood putty and caulk the seams with silicone window caulk.

Pic 2 shows the shape of the pieces. After a bit of trial and error, I found 5" to be sufficiently wide to allow the lid to rest against the window and remain open. This piece could be wider, but not much narrower or the lid will fall down all the time. Next I measured the distance from the front edge of the 5" piece to the front of the box to get the width of the lid.

I chose to make one large lid, however, you could easily make two. Alternatively, you could also make a solid top and doors on the front. In this case, I made one lid which extended to the center line of the outside 2x4s. In this way, the side edges of the lid rest on the 2x4 for support. The lid measures 19" x 51". This is a job you don't want to do from inside the box. Picture 3 shows how a piano hinge is attached. A piano hinge is a long continuous hinge which is very strong and a perfect solution for this project.

PIano hinges commonly come in 30" and 48" versions and 48" would have done the job. I chose instead to use two 30" hinges so the entire gap would be filled. This was easier than mortising a space for the 48" hinge.

Piano hinges can be cut to the desired length using a hacksaw or portable grinder. In picture 4 you see that the hinges protrude a small bit but it's not noticeable when the rug in laying on top of it. Update: I received a question about screwing the hinge into the edge of the plywood which you normally don't want to do as the edges don't hold screws as well.

Ideally it would be better to mount the hinge on top of the bench or reenforce the edge with solid wood to help hold the screws. So far my bench lid has held up, but we don't open it on a daily basis which probably helps.

If in constant use, there's a good chance the screws may wobble around and loosen over time. With the 2 pieces hinged together, there's a couple things that need to be done before permanently attaching them to the box. First is to mark out and cut the 2 smaller side pieces. Plywood doesn't move much but a little gap is needed. Some wood glue and nails is sufficient. Now put it all together with some Liquid Nails and some solid nails.

Lay down a bead of Liquid Nails on the 2x4s which are under the 5" back piece and nail it in place. Then do the same with the 2 side pieces. I like cove molding here but you could also use quarter round or a larger piece of trim. With everything in place it's time to touch up the finish by filling nails holes with wood putty, caulking the seams and giving it another coat of paint.

I hope this instructable has been helpful to you. A window seat is pretty easy to build for such a large project and there's a lot of bang for the buck too.

Mine was a bit more because of the poplar trim and bead board on the front. Regardless it's been worth every penny and it's great to have some extra storage in our kitchen.

Thanks for looking! I look forward to any questions or comments. Question 6 months ago. Ok, question. When you put the beadboard on it that had to push the whole front frame outward.

How did you compensate for that? Did you just install it within those boxes or did it go across the horizontal pieces? Answer 6 months ago. You can see it between the 2x4 and the face frame in Step 6 pics. That said, you can cut it to fit after nailing the face frame on to save space.

It's not needed for strength. Doing this now. I put in the long top piece for the front wall. It looks like you screwed it to something, what was it? It looks like I might have a stud there anyway but I might just miss it. Been too long to remember honestly. With the side of the window right above it I may have hit a stud, but could also be the double bottom plate since this is an exterior wall.

Question 10 months Build A Wooden Bench Seat 80 ago on Step 7. Answer 10 months ago. Great time to be doing some work around the house! I'm not a very good engineer, but I would use 2x4's even though 2x3's are probably okay too. Cutting an 1" out of the height decreases the strength across the span a good deal and the cost savings is not great.

If you only have access to 2x3's, I would use 2 with one horizontal on top of the second vertical one. Looking at it from the end it makes a long "T" and that would give you better support. That would be plenty IMO and you won't have to worry about adding a support underneath.

When joining 2x4's using pocket screws you set your jig to 1. And it's probably better to leave the trim in retrospect since it doesn't interfere and helps to seal the crack. Good luck!! Reply 10 months ago. Thank you Kent for your response and guidance.

Yes , I am using 2x4s only as suggested. Have started the project and should be able to complete by next weekend. Please advise on these- if it will help, I plan to add one support block at the bottom center from the front frame to the back wall see the pic- have just kept the wood in formation not yet joined also and was thinking if the pocket hole side on vertical 11 inch bars can be on the back side instead front?

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