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build-a-door-frame-exterior-95 Framing for a New Exterior Door? Follow These Must-Know Tips from the Pros | Better Homes & Gardens

I decided to install the door in the kitchen at the corner of the house, since the only other two options were the master bedroom or a bathroom.

The kitchen posed problems of its own, with a huge set of oak cabinets leaving us only about 8 feet of wall space with which to work. The project was definitely a challenge, but I managed to support the ceiling, cut through the wall, reframe the wall and install the door. A T-Jak is a helpful tool to support the top plate while you install the studs.

Use a T-square to mark the ceiling joists near the build a door frame exterior 95 of your temporary brace wall. In this case I was working on the top floor with only the roof overhead, which build a door frame exterior 95 easily supported by the bracing techniques shown here.

To build this, I first marked the proposed location of the guild on the wall, and then marked the location of the ceiling joists. Framw between the top and bottom plate, and cut the temporary studs to fit. Protect the flooring and finished ceiling by placing a few sheets of corrugated cardboard between the plates.

Extend the brace wall so the top plate extends a few feet beyond each side of the proposed door location build a door frame exterior 95 the overhead framing is completely supported when you cut through the existing wall.

Use shims if necessary rather than banging them into position with a hammer, which might damage the floor or ceiling. Instead, I used a T-Jak, which is a threaded, telescoping cabinet jack that works great for all sorts of overhead installations when you need a third hand.

Make sure the studs are plumb on each face and toe-screw them into place. Diagonal cross-braces strengthen the temporary wall. Finally, I finish up the brace wall with a couple of 2-by-4 cross-braces fastened with two screws each to the edge of the 2-by-4 studs. Build a door frame exterior 95 homeowner will appreciate this dust barrier when you cut through the wall and kick up all sorts of airborne debris.

Use the brace wall as a frame to hang plastic sheeting as a dust barrier. These days, many electronic stud finders offer the multi-functionality to detect pipes and electrical lines inside a wall. This wall had no plumbing but did have an electrical outlet that was wired through the floor plate. A drywall saw helps to remove the panels neatly, without smashing the gypsum board to dust and crumbles. I used a Rotozip with a flush-cut accessory to cut through the perimeter of the drywall panels.

One extremely handy tool for opening the wall in an orderly fashion is a flush-cut saw. In my case, I used a Rotozip with a flush-cut attachment, which I highly recommend for this type if work. I slightly modified the flush-cut attachment by duct taping a wood shim onto the cutting guide, which gave me the etxerior depth-of-cut I needed to slice the drywall without penetrating the framing—or anything else—on the other side.

I then used a hammer to open the wallboard even further, pulling it away from the nails that held it on the studs, and then prying up the nails. Use hand, eye and breathing protection when removing the old fiberglass batts. Next, remove the insulation. Fiberglass can irritate the build a door frame exterior 95 and skin, so wear safety protection and dispose of the old batts in plastic bags. This diagonal cross-brace complicated my job.

This building technique was used to compensate for non-structural build a door frame exterior 95. At this point I frme into an unexpected obstacle: a 1-by-4 cross-brace supporting the corner of the house framing due to a lack of structural sheathing. So, I had to re-frame the wall using an atypical method to accommodate the lack of structural sheathing, throwing a wrench into the standard build a door frame exterior 95 procedure I was build a door frame exterior 95 to dokr in this article.

Shown in this diagram is a typical framing method for a single eexterior door. There are two important things to point out. First, see the diagram above for the details on framing a buold door opening. You can probably expect to build according to that sketch, rather than my method that employed a monster 4-by header, some extra doubled studs and metal strapping to frame this door.

Second, I do not necessarily advocate framing your door using the method shown in the photos, in case you encounter a similar problem with your project. As always, consult your local building inspector for an approved method, as requirements for shear walls and general construction will vary among localities, based on everything from high-wind exposure and seismic concerns to simple politics.

Do as your inspector says, not as I do. Starting at the bottom remove the studs by cutting extedior the nails with a recip saw. That being build a door frame exterior 95, the methods for cutting through the wall and installing the door will remain the same among standard pre-hung door installations.

The trimmer studs should be cut to support the header from beneath, and then face-nailed to the adjacent studs to strengthen the door frame. After cutting out the cross-brace with the Rotozip, I cut the existing studs out of the house wall by using a recip saw to slice through the nails at the top and bottom of each stud start at the top.

Refer to your build a door frame exterior 95 for the recommended rough opening size—mine was 34 inches wide, 82 inches high. When reframing the wall, you should double the studs that frame the door. The two inner studs, called trimmer studs, should be cut to support the door header build a door frame exterior 95 beneath. Unlike the monster by beam I used as a header, most single entryways can get by with a 4-by-4 header.

For example, a 4-by-4 No. For smaller headers the build a door frame exterior 95 between the header and the top plate may be taken up by cripple studs partial studs. Always make sure your rough opening is build a door frame exterior 95, square and true. A door header must be the same ubild as the framing members. Replacing the siding for the entire house was not an option. I doubled all the studs, and fastened the header flush beneath the ceiling top plate and over the studs, allowing the inch high rough opening accounting for the floor plate, which was still in place.

I nailed the heck out of everything, and installed 4-inch wide sheet metal strapping the framing, running from the top plate, across the header and over the interior face of the new studs. I riddled the strapping with nails driven into all the framing components. In my case, the header extended from one corner of the house, across the door frame and over the following stud bay. This is not a typical door frame and it may not be an acceptable method in your area.

Check with your local code official. Ffame options include replacing the sheathing, or installing new steel let-in or wood diagonal braces to keep the shear flow from the corner to the foundation. Metal strapping running from the top plate, over the header and over the face of all four doubled studs helped add shear strength to this door frame. Again, this is not typical. EHT reader and professional engineer, Gerard J. Duhon of Texas-based Engineered Foundation Solutions, offers a by-the-book method of framing a door without structural sheathing.

In both cases, a sheet of the steel or plywood material must be trame to fit from stud to stud and plate to plate. Both sides of the doorway should have this sheet installed. The steel should be 14 gauge, about. A quicker attachment is to drive concrete nails with a powder-actuated gun. Observe safety and personal protection if the gun is used.

If steel is used, the thickness is minimal, finish with the normal sheetrock thickness, use construction adhesive to hold in place. Exteroor repair above will yield the equivalent resistance to shear as the let-in bracing, but would be inadequate for resistance to seismic and windstorm perils.

Our staff is always anxious to learn better practices in home improvement, and pass along this information to our readers. You can visit the website of Gerard Eoor. Duhon, P. Next, I cut out the sheathing and Styrofoam, insulation to expose the back of the siding. Once the rough opening was constructed I used the Rotozip to cut away the sheathing and Styrofoam insulation from the entryway.

I then used the same tool to cut the outline of the door frame through the metal siding at the top and bottom. I used a 4-foot level to mark the plumb lines of the rough opening, then build a door frame exterior 95 through the siding using a cordless circ saw with a homemade edge guide.

I used the Rotozip to cut the outline of the rough opening through the siding at the top and bottom of the door location. My next move was made from the outside of the house, where I marked plumb lines on bukld sides of the door frame, connecting my top and bottom cuts.

I followed my cutlines with a lightweight volt Makita circ saw, using a homemade edge guide that I built a couple of years ago. The thin kerf of the blade made short work of the siding, and as I zipped up the second side of framr frame, the metal panels fell to the ground with a glorious crash. I then removed the floor plate between the trimmer studs, and the rough opening was ready for business. I cut and pry loose the floor plate to make room for the door sill.

Damage done—a big hole in wall. At builx point I felt a splash of mixed emotions. Caulk the sill and the brick mold trim around the door perimeter, and then tilt the pre-hung door into the rough opening. Fasten it temporarily with a screw through the jamb. Do not screw it down tightly at this point. Wrap the door frame with weatherproof flashing.

I used a self-adhesive flashing arrier fro Cofair Products. The installation procedure for this door is basically the same as most other pre-hung doors.

In some cases, a split-jamb door may be required for thicker walls, because they install from both the interior and exterior of the house to sandwich the wall between the split jamb. Once the hinge side is plumb and fastened securely, do the same to the latch side.

Install wood shims for a snug and plumb fit. After the door is fastened in place you can cut away the extra shim material with build a door frame exterior 95 utility knife.

Plumb the hinge side of the door first, using shims as necessary. This article depicts a single-jamb door that extefior into the rough opening from the outside. I had to decide whether to set the brick molding of the new door into the metal siding, so the siding butts against the side of the trim, or if I should set the brick molding on top grame the siding, concealing the cuts.

I opted for the latter method so the brick mold would hide any rough cuts in the metal.

Jan 14,  · Door widths vary, but an easy way to size the rough opening is to use the door width plus 5 in. as the distance between the king studs. There are three simple rules to framing rough openings efficiently: Minimize layout marks; maintain a simple, consistent Author: Scott Grice. Mar 13,  · Building entrance doors More about DIY construction in our guide HERE!. Today, we will look at another part of DIY timber construction of a small house, tiny cabin, shed, or pretty much any small wooden structure – exterior door construction. Being the first thing you encounter when entering a house or ca bin, the entrance door has a quite strong influence on the building’s first impression.

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