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bevel-up-jointer-plane-jump If it Works…the Bevel Up Plane Debate | The Renaissance Woodworker

We may receive a commission when you use our affiliate links. However, this does not impact our recommendations. The bench plane has three jobs in the woodshop: to straighten the wood, to smooth it and to remove it.

Believe it or not, there is a way to make sense of all the different sizes and configurations of bench planes out there and to select the few that you need in your shop. The primary job of the smoothing plane is to prepare the wood for finishing. It is typically the last plane to touch the wood. The traditional but by no means only job of bevel up jointer plane jump fore plane is to remove Homemade Jointer Plane Jump material quickly.

By virtue of its longish sole it also tends to straighten the wood to some degree. The fore plane is typically the first bench plane to touch the wood to get it to rough size.

The primary job of jointer planes is to straighten the wood, a task it excels at by virtue of its long sole the longer the sole, the straighter the resulting work. The jointer plane is used after the fore plane but before bevel up jointer plane jump smoothing plane. People tend to end up with several of these sometimes even in the same sizes. Prized by collectors, the No.

Some woodworkers like to use the No. Some woodworkers buy a No. Some woodworkers have special small-scale applications for the No.

But in reality the No. And adjusting the depth of cut is no fun either because of the cramped area behind the frog.

Buy one because you want one. Most woodworkers end up putting it on a shelf and admiring it. Pity the poor No. Collectors love them, though the No. Woodworkers are bewildered by them.

I do hear occasionally that the No. The No. Because of its small size, it gets lumped in with the No. If I were manufacturing a line of handplanes, the No. It truly is a useful tool. You can actually get your hand comfortably around the tote and work the controls with great ease. The front knob is big enough to grasp like a traditional bench plane.

And the cutter is just wide enough to be a useful size. So what is it good for? I use a No. The shorter the sole, the more that the tool is able to get into localized areas on a board and remove tear-out. The long sole of a No. It is an excellent balance of sole length and cutter width to be useful for typical furniture parts.

And the last part of that sentence is what is important here: typical furniture parts. And because I work with hardwoods, I have bevel up jointer plane jump my No.

Another important detail of the Bevel up jointer plane jump. What a difference an inch makes. Why is that? Good press. Lots of high-profile woodworkers have sung the praises of this size tool. And, as Americans, we also seem to like things that have been Super-Sized.

In truth, the No. So it requires more effort to push the tool forward. And the advantage of the extra weight is that the tool will Stanley Jointer Plane 8 Jump stay in the cut with less downward pressure on your part. I think the No. If you build jewelry boxes, the No. I meant to put the No. Despite the fact that the No. Why is this? English craftsman David Charlesworth.

In a nutshell, the No. English craftsmen would use a panel plane for smoothing large surfaces. The modern No. The middling size of the sole makes it difficult for you to get into localized areas to remove tear-out shorter tools do this with ease. Plus, the tool is difficult to use to shoot long edges for a panel glue-up — a real jointer plane makes this task simpler. However, the No. The modern bevel-up smoothing planes have become quite popular recently.

With all those advantages, why did I even write about all the bevel-down smoothing planes. It seems a no-brainer. With the bevel-up tools you have to give up a few things. These are important to some woodworkers myself included and insignificant to others.

You have to be the judge here. Traditional bevel-down planes have the blade adjuster right where you want it: in front of your fingers. In fact, you can adjust bevel up jointer plane jump cutter while the plane is moving. I bevel up jointer plane jump this all the time. With bevel-up planes, the controls are low on the tool — too low to reach without removing your hand from the tote.

Second trade-off: lateral-adjustment controls. With traditional bevel-down planes there are separate controls for depth adjustment and lateral adjustment which centers the cutter in the mouth of the tool.

Some people love this arrangement. Some struggle with it and find that they cannot bevel up jointer plane jump control the two functions depth and lateral adjustment. The Lie-Nielsen bevel-up plane, the No. Third trade-off: comfort. If you like a traditional bevel-down plane, working with the bevel-up planes can be disconcerting. All that said, the bevel-up planes are extraordinary tools for eliminating tear-out.

Because the bevel bevel up jointer plane jump up, you only have to hone the cutter to a higher angle to raise the cutting pitch of the plane. But if you work with mild domestics, you should consider the trade-offs between the two forms before you make a purchase. Welcome to the weird middle ground of plane sizes, where any tool can do any job and trade-offs abound.

Historically, this size plane was used for roughing. In this day and age of inexpensive and accurate machinery, few people use this size tool in this historical manner. Commonly called a jack plane, the No. If a pre-war homeowner bought one plane, it was most likely a jack plane. Well the jack plane can be set up to do almost any job.

Camber the iron and it can be a fore plane for removing stock. Set it up with a straight iron or a slightly cambered iron and it can be a shortish jointer plane. Set it up with a minutely cambered iron and take a light shaving and you can use the jack as a long-ish smoothing plane. I know all this because this is how I worked when I had only bevel up jointer plane jump bench plane, a vintage Bevel Up Jointer Plane Free No.

When people ask me what plane to buy if they only bought one, I usually recommend a No. Now that I own many more planes, I use the No. With a heavily cambered iron, I use it to dress stock that is too wide for my jointer or planer. Sometimes called the junior jack plane, tool collectors tell me that this plane shows up in a lot of inventories of manual training programs at public schools.

It was a little lighter and shorter than the traditional jack, which made it easier for the shop-class misfits to wield. I have only limited experience with this tool and have never owned one. It was really too short to joint an edge accurately.

The cutter width was the same as a No. I also have one set up with a scraping insert. So when you bevel up jointer plane jump to plane down the tabletop, you run into lots of grain reversals.

This is my Veritas bevel up smoothing plane. I love it. It Jointer Plane Bevel Up Or Down On came with a blade ground at 25 degrees that works really well. The mass of the plane and the adjustible mouth allows me to do really fine work on most woods. A little more than a year ago I bought another blade for it, this one ground at 50 degrees. Apr 08,  · The LV bevel up planes are incredibly easy to set up and adjust on the fly, but so are the bedrock style planes. I’d go with a LN Jointer, but not at close to $ Rob Cosman speaks very highly of the woodriver planes, partly because he helped design them, but I’ve heard decent reviews as well and they are about the same price. Optional 38° and 50° bevel blades and 38° toothed blade Optional 11" long anodized aluminum bevel-up jointer fence attaches to either side of plane with brass thumbscrews; set screw adjusts fence square to sole; 2" tall face for planing edges perfectly square and can be used to shoot angles less than 90° by attaching wooden guide to inside.

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