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NOTE : Either of these are required only for Cub Cadet competition pulling tractors with an engine that run at high RPM or wide open throttle to stabilize driveshaft from wobbling and prevent breakage.
Install just behind main pressure spring on driveshaft. See pictures of correct installation below. Super tough, will not break, even under severe vibration. This will guarantee the pillow block bearing and brace is in perfect alignment and centered with the driveshaft. Otherwise, the driveshaft will be noisy. Then permanently weld angle brace to tractor frame rails. See correct installation below. Package deals.
Do this only if the front axle has been moved forward - On the narrow frame Cub Cadets, if the front axle has been moved forward, reinforce the frame rails where the engine mounting holes are to reduce normal high-RPM engine vibration travel that could lead to both frame and driveshaft breakage.
Longer engine mounting bolts must be used, too. The reason for this is because when the front axle center support is moved, the remaining frame material isn't thick enough to hold up to the engine vibration. But the engine mounting holes and oil drain plug hole must be properly located centered and drilled in the plate first.
This is much easier to do on a platform work table than on the floor or ground. Remove the engine. The 3-pin clutch drive plate remains on the engine and it slides out of the driveshaft and clutch disc when the engine is removed.
They're just as hard as a high quality drill bit. For cosmetic purpose, hide the drilled hole with a 1" plastic or metal hole plug. Just push the plug in the hole for a nice distinctive look. If this happens, the input shaft will need to be straightened and hope it doesn't break later because the metal has been weakened or a good used input shaft will need to be installed.
Plus, it'll be easier on your nerves and on the input shaft. The driveshaft assembly then slides out of the tractor. Fasten the Coupler Arms Together To Make One Rigid Driveshaft Coupler - With solid motor mounts installed in a Cub Cadet that originally came with a rubber ISO-mounted engine, the driveshaft will not be able to "move" with the engine and there'll be less chance of clutch parts prematurely wearing or breaking.
The flexible rubber disc s at the end of the driveshaft will be useless too, and could deteriorate over time. Large nuts are used as spacers in the picture to the right. This setup is just as strong as using a rigid tubular coupler, and it cost a lot less. If the outer parts of the two arms don't come together or meet when the bolts are tightened be careful not to tighten the bolts too tight if the arms don't meet, they could break , a couple of thin flat washers may need to be added as shims next to the spacers.
And before fastening the arms together with the spacers, first slide the arms on the driveshaft so they'll be in perfect alignment with each other, and tighten the bolts.
See the picture to the right. It'll serve no purpose when using solid motor mounts and when making the coupler arms rigid. FYI - Many pullers convert the hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet models , , and wide frames, solid mounted engine and models , and wide frames, rubber ISO-mounted engine into a clutch-drive tractor.
All that's needed are the clutch assembly with the hanger bracket for the release lever and a complete transaxle out of a model 86, , wide frames, solid mounted engine or models , or wide frames, rubber ISO-mounted engine gear drive Cub Cadet.
A set of my solid motor mounts will be needed also if the tractor originally has the ISO rubber motor mounts. The braking mechanism out of a wide frame Cub Cadet will also be needed. Do not fasten the two coupler arms directly together on the IH Cub Cadet "Original" because the driveshaft needs to move up or down to tighten the drive belt with the engine. Leave the flexible rubber disc in place, even for pulling competition. A rigid tubular rear driveshaft coupler with a worn center can be repaired by boring out the center and installing a press-fit steel sleeve.
Then ream the sleeve to. The boring and reaming process should be performed on a milling machine with a self-centering 3-jaw super spacer or in a metal lathe with a self-centering 3-jaw chuck. For strength, the shank unthreaded part of the bolt needs to have full contact with the coupler and driveshaft. At high RPM or at wide open throttle , a center support pillow block bearing and brace should be used midway on the driveshaft.
For pulling applications, rubber motor mounts and the flexible coupler at the rear of the driveshaft absorbs valuable horsepower, which must be transferred to the rear tires for full power to the track.
The rubber motor mounts will also cause the engine to vibrate excessively at high RPM or at wide open throttle. If a tractor that has rubber motor mounts and a flexible coupler is going to be used for competition pulling, definitely install some metal motor mounts.
The Correct Way to Drill a Hole for a Roll, Coiled or Spiral Pin so the Hole Will Not Be Too Big for the Pin - First of all, when using a milling machine, use a spotting drill bit , or use a center punch or transfer punch to locate exactly where the hole needs to be drilled to prevent the drill bit from "skating" on the surface. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden tractor models , , , , , , , , , , , and The rubber ISO-mounts can be adapted for use on various other makes and models of small engine equipment to reduce engine vibration throughout the frame.
Provides stabilization of the engine and proper alignment of the driveshaft from tension of the drive belt to the mower deck. Rubber ISO-mount kit. The rubber ISO-mount kit replaces the mount only on one corner. Order four kits for a complete set. Complete Rubber ISO-mount set. OEM Cub Cadet part x4. An original, ingenious, innovative concept invention by Brian Miller, because I was the one who originally thought of, promoted and advertised the use of this product.
Please accept no copycat products of this kind. Details include: Solid motor mounts are an alternative to replacing deteriorated OEM "ISO" rubber engine mounts, which is usually associated with a damaged "flexible" 3-pin clutch drive plate and damaged clutch components.
These fit IH Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" garden tractor models , , , , , , , , , , , and If the engine in your tractor is mounted on angled cradles with rubber mounts between the cradles and tractor frame, then these are what your tractor need. The solid motor mounts install between the engine mounting cradles and tractor frame. A thick flat washer fastens on top of the cradles. Torque the bolts at 35 ft.
Can be easily removed if rubber mounts are desired instead. For general lawn and garden use, heavy towing, pushing snow or competition pulling. A MUST for competition pulling or even everyday use because these stabilize the engine and entire clutch assembly to prevent severe engine vibration at high RPM or at wide open throttle , which can destroy the flexible 3-pin clutch drive plate, clutch disc and driveshaft components. These solid motor mounts weigh about 1 lb.
Precision machined by A-1 Miller so they set the engine crankshaft height at the correct alignment with the driveshaft. FYI - Rubber motor mounts are intended for operator comfort from engine vibration only. The rubber ISO-mount tractors with solid motor mounts installed would feel and operate just like the tractors with a solid mounted engine. Some people who installed these solid motor mounts just to mow grass tell A-1 Miller's that the mounts don't cause their tractor to vibrate much at all, but others have installed them and said the vibration is unbearable.
Because the old Kohlers was balanced through the 's's with old fashioned and out-dated technology, which is not as precision with today's computerized balancing technology. The IH Cub Cadet engineers obviously knew the older Kohler engines were out of balance and would vibrate, this is the only reason they installed rubber motor mounts in their "Quiet Line" tractors.
And the two factory-welded cross bars between the cradles is for with an aluminum oil pan. The cross bars is used on models , , , and It is not required with a cast iron oil pan or with solid motor mounts.
Solid Motor Mounts Only. Solid Motor Mount Kit. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of these parts or services. Fits all pre gear drive IH-built Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, , , , , , , , and , except "Quiet Line" models.
Because if the bushing is dry, chances are, the driveshaft will not release, it can bind up and wear both the bushing and driveshaft. High quality aftermarket.
Fits pilot bushing retainers below and input shaft coupler arm further below in Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden models , , , Special, , , , D, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , and Install with hammer and socket.
Driveshaft Tubular Couplers. OEM stock-length replaces Cub Cadet part IHR1 or 3" aftermarket rigid tubular carbon steel driveshaft one-piece rigid tubular couplers for Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, , , , , , , , and For an OEM stock-length coupler, having a 2" longer than stock coupler with the 2" extended on the driveshaft end will help stabilize the driveshaft to reduce overall tractor vibration and help the coupler last longer.
Custom-length rigid tubular driveshaft couplers, up to 6" length are available. And one-piece couplers to replace rubber flex coupler s and T-arms on AQS Quiet Line Cub Cadet models , , and when using solid motor mounts.
The , and coupler will come with two roll pin holes for single or double rubber flex coupler s. Any length up to 6". Holes are drilled in alignment with each other to maintain proper balance. Fits Cub Cadet ISO-mount garden tractor models , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , and Discontinued from Cub Cadet. Transaxle Input Shaft Coupler Arm.
Driveshaft or Input Shaft Coupler Arm. Fits Cub Cadet models , , , , , , , D, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , and NOTE: This particular part goes on the driveshaft and not on the input shaft of the transaxle. A-1 Miller's improved design. Can also be used in an angled steering shaft setup as a U-joint with either rubber flex coupler below in a custom-built mini-rod pulling tractor.
Each fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models , , , , , D, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , and NOTE: This particular part goes on the input shaft of the transaxle and not on the driveshaft. OEM Cub Cadet part 's and OEM Cub Cadet part 's same part as below.
OEM Cub Cadet part 's same part as above. Driveshaft Rubber Flex Coupler. Designed for Cub Cadet "Original" and Cub Cadet hydrostatic drive models: , , , , , , , , , , and Allows for out-of-alignment rotation of driveshaft to prevent damage to hydrostatic pump. Designed for Cub Cadet models: , , , Special, , , D, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , and NOTE: Only models , Special, , , and require one flex coupler at end of driveshaft.
All other models require two flex couplers at end of driveshaft. Allows out-of-alignment rotation of driveshaft in ISO-mounted engine tractors to prevent damage to the clutch parts or hydrostatic pump. Has larger center hole than coupler above to clear housing in coupler arm for self-aligning spherical bushing. Can be substituted for flex coupler above. Otherwise, it's pretty tough. Separate the Brake and Clutch Operations - This have been done by many professional pullers in the past.
Also, a "parking brake" lock mechanism can be installed on the brake lever-to-tractor frame to securely lock the brakes in position to prevent the tractor from rolling or coasting when the tractor is out of gear and the engine running. Place a clutch disc with unworn holes over the pins to ensure they're properly straightened.
Securely weld each collar to the plate. Try to apply an even amount of weld around each collar for proper balance and to reduce vibration. It's also a good idea to weld the collars on a drive plate that's not bent, to ensure it will not get bent in the future. True all rotating clutch parts drive plate and pressure plates in a metal lathe that has a 3-jaw self-centering scroll chuck to reduce vibration, wear on the pilot bushing and possible driveshaft breakage at high RPM or at wide open throttle.
This means they are not perfectly flat and they wobble from the factory. In either case, resurface the pressure plates until they're perfectly flat and true-up the edge to prevent wobble in a metal lathe.
OEM Kohler part 12 S. Discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler part X Step Washer. Professionally machined by Brian Miller. OEM Kohler part 41 S. OEM Kohler part 52 S. Secures aluminum hub to flywheel to prevent slippage. New Old Stock or Used and in excellent condition. OEM Kohler part S. Resurfacing and Truing Up Worn and Warped Pressure Plates - For any clutch disc to adhere or grip well and to prevent slippage, both pressure plates must be resurfaced until they're perfectly flat in a metal lathe.
The outer edge should be trued-up too, to prevent wobble, which can cause the pilot bushing to wear excessively. If the clutch disc is worn, but still reusable, it can be resurfaced until perfectly flat in the lathe as well. NOTE: Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth.
The grease will assure full clutch disengagement, lessen wear to the driveshaft, and it will prevent the rear pressure plate from sticking to the driveshaft due to rust if the tractor is stored in a damp environment. Be sure to wear safety glasses! And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the rear pressure plate to relieve the air that can get trapped between the pressure plates.
Minimal metal is removed to maintain maximum diameter and thickness so they will not warp when hot from clutch friction. With hole for spiral pin. With slot for spiral pin. Warped pressure plates will eventually allow a single or even double clutch setup to slip. They 8 Inch Radial Arm Saw Blade 70 warp due to overheating when "slipping the clutch". When they get warped, they don't make full contact with the entire surface of the clutch disc.
Whenever a new clutch disc is installed, rather if it's an OEM one or made of aluminum, the pressure plates should always be resurfaced until perfectly flat and trued up in a metal lathe. This means they're not as flat or turn as true as ones that's been machined in a lathe. Therefore, if new or used pressure plates are going to be used for pulling or heavy lawn and garden use, have the outer edge trued up and have the clutch contact area resurfaced until perfectly flat in a metal lathe.
On the average, approximately. Removing this much metal will not weaken the plates whatsoever, even when used with a very stout pressure spring. The aluminum disc on the other hand as described in this web site , has a total contact area of You may look at this disc and ask, "where's the friction material? Save the Hubs!
If the discs in your pressure plates are heavily rusted, worn too thin or warped badly and resurfacing them in a lathe didn't do any good, instead of making two entirely new pressure plates, what could be done is remove the center hub from each disc with a hydraulic press and reuse the hubs to make two new pressure plates.
This would save from having to fabricate a couple of new hubs. If the center hole in the slotted hub of the rear [sliding] pressure plate is worn oblong rare , the hole can be repaired by boring it true in a metal lathe, and a steel sleeve bushing will need to be pressed in and welded in to prevent it from coming loose, and the hole in the bushing will need to be center-bored to.
The slot will need to be carefully ground out in the bushing to match the slot in the hub using the blade in an electric chop 10 Inch Radial Arm Saw Blade To saw with a metal cut-off wheel. Finally, the face of the pressure plate can be resurfaced and trued-up in the metal lathe. The aluminum clutch disc works best for low RPM stock engines. And it'll be a good idea to install a center support bearing center support pillow block bearing and brace to prevent the driveshaft from wobbling at 4, RPM. The biggest mistake a puller can make when launching a tractor is letting the clutch out all of a sudden with the engine revved up.
So when using aluminum as a clutch disc or any metallic clutch material , and when the tractor is hooked to the sled, always remember to "slip" the clutch upon take-off.
To do this, first rev up the engine a lot , then slowly ease out on the clutch pedal. Because an aluminum clutch disc may not "slip" at low RPM, and because aluminum adheres to steel very well when under pressure, if the pedal is let out all of a sudden with the engine revved up, and if the tires don't spin, something could break or get damaged in the drive train or transaxle. Made of very tough and long-lasting material. Suitable for heavy duty yard and garden use, and competition pulling tractors.
Reinforced with sandwiched steel. Listed for use in Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , and Listed for use in Cub cadet models , and When the original three holes wear extremely large, a new hole can be precision-drilled between the original holes and the clutch disc can be reused.
The more drive pins or studs the drive plate has, less wear to the holes will result in the clutch disc. The drive plate and clutch disc can have as many as 9 or 12 drive pins and holes. Teasing Spring and Protective Thrust Washer.
Fits all Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractors, including Cub Cadet "Original" and Cub Cadet models , and equipped with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment.
The thrust washer goes between the rear slotted pressure plate and teasing spring. Each time the clutch is engaged, sometimes the end of the spring will "catch" in the slot of the pressure plate, which twists the spring a few thousandths of an inch.
The thrust washer prevents this from happening. But being the teasing spring does not expand outward when the clutch is engaged, this sleeve will not prevent the spring from possibly twisting and breaking.
Therefore, it's been proven to best use the protective thrust washer instead. Protective Thrust Washer Only. No need to use this part on the Cub Cadet "Original". Teasing Spring Only. Specifically used in Cub Cadet clutch drive garden tractor models , , , , , , and , including Cub Cadet models , and equipped with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment. Overall length:. And do not install this part in any other model of Cub Cadet garden tractor then listed above in an attempt to prevent the teasing spring from possibly breaking over time.
Use the thrust washer above instead. Doing so will position the throw-out bearing further back on the driveshaft than in the original position and not allow the clutch disc to either fully disengage or disengage at all. Specifically used in Cub Cadet garden tractor model ; 2" overall length. Comes with installed grease fitting. No longer available from Cub Cadet. A-1 Miller's fabricated part.
The steel spacer to replace the teasing spring and lock washer placed between the pressure plates is most suitable for use with the aluminum clutch disc. There will be no benefit if these were used with the fiber clutch disc. Also, the lock washer works best with a red or yellow pressure spring so the pressure plates can place maximum pressure against the clutch disc. Made of the highest quality alloy; medium-grade hardness aluminum available.
IMPORTANT - It is highly recommended that both pressure plates be trued-up to reduce vibration and resurfaced machined in a metal lathe to remove warpage until perfectly flat or severe clutch slippage may result! Replaces teasing spring on all narrow frame clutch drive Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, , , , , , and Clutch Disc Anti-Rattle Spring.
So if possible, install these springs with the coil between the clutch disc and drive plate, opposite that is shown in the picture to the right, to prevent them from coming off. It's purpose is to allow the rear pressure plate to gently press against the clutch disc as the clutch is engaged without having a "jerky" clutch. When using an aluminum clutch disc , the teasing spring can be replaced with a steel spacer or a stack of small outside diameter flat washers the ones that originally comes on Cub Cadet driveshafts and an ordinary, zinc-plated steel split lock washer.
Install the lock washer between the pressure plates dead center of the clutch disc for a smoother clutch engagement. To prevent the teasing spring from possibly breaking and to help the clutch es to engage more smoothly, simply don't use the teasing spring.
Lock washers have a spring-like action too, plus they'll last a lot longer than a teasing spring. The lock washer does two things - it acts like a spring, which forces the pressure plates apart, it provides smooth clutch engagement and it'll help to prevent the possibility of the clutch disc from "grabbing" upon take-off.
Doing this will guarantee that the clutch will engage smoothly and release every time. So when reassembling a clutch assembly, don't install the teasing spring.
You'll be glad you did. Install release lever. Install teasing spring or steel spacer. Install zinc-plated steel split lock washer use only with very stiff pressure spring. Install clutch disc. Remove the engine from the tractor. Place a heavy flat bar across the tractor frame to support the very end of the driveshaft. Remove the heavy flat bar and the teasing spring can be removed. Before installing the new teasing spring, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease on the driveshaft.
Reinstall the teasing spring and everything else on the driveshaft in reverse order of removal. This allows about. Be sure the pedal return spring is installed, too. Remove from vise and slide off both pressure plates and clutch disc. Firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with a lb. Drive out the teasing spring. Carefully remove the driveshaft from the vise because the pressure spring is under a lot of tension. Now everything can be removed from the driveshaft. For safety, a hydraulic press should be used to compress the large pressure spring on the driveshaft to reassemble the clutch components!
Remove the driveshaft from the press and firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with the lb. Remove the driveshaft from the vise. Again, firmly clamp the front of the driveshaft in the vise, and with the lb. The clutch assembly is now completely reassembled. To test how well the clutch will release out of the tractor, place the clutch assembly in the hydraulic press with each end of the release lever on a couple of blocks, and apply slight downward pressure on the end of the driveshaft.
The clutch disc should rotate or "move around" freely without binding. If the disc doesn't rotate or binds, redo your work to find out what went wrong. How to Fix a "Sticking" Cub Cadet Clutch when it will not release - Before reassembling the clutch assembly, apply a thin coat of lubricating grease on the area of the driveshaft where the throw-out bearing and where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth.
As the engine runs with the clutch fully engaged foot off the clutch pedal, of course , due to normal engine vibration and slight out-of-balance rotating clutch parts, the OEM round pin continually spins, causing the pin itself and the holes in the hanger bracket to wear.
The holes in the release lever rarely wear because the entire lever is made of hardened, heat-treated steel. By replacing the round pin with an angled pin with the short end long enough to make contact with the tractor frame or hanger bracket , it can't spin. I think the engineers at IH Cub Cadet should have originally installed an angled pin in their tractors.
But then again, they probably didn't plan on their tractors being in use years later. This is an alternative to using the OEM straight clevis pin or a grade 8 bolt and lock nut. For clutch drive Cub Cadet models: 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , and Please specify model of tractor when ordering. High quality aftermarket straight clevis pin for clutch drive Cub Cadet garden tractors that require a pin. Straight clevis pin for narrow frame Cub Cadet garden tractors.
New clutch hanger bracket for narrow frame clutch drive IH Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, , , , , , and New clutch hanger bracket for wide frame clutch drive IH Cub Cadet models 86, , , , and Also for models , and with a hydrostatic disconnect attachment.
A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Weld up worn and oblong clutch release lever pivot pin holes, redrill holes and grind smooth for your hanger bracket. May also fit model May also fit models , , , , and New Clutch Release Lever for all narrow frame clutch drive Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, , , , , , and A-1 Miller's Repair Service - Weld up and grind smooth worn [throw-out bearing] areas in your release lever.
Can also be used for models , and with solid motor mounts. Can also can be used for models 86, and with no modifications. Then I. Part number shown for identification of clutch arm only.
Fabricated A-1 Miller's. May require either cotter pin or jam nut for spring stop. Fabricated by A-1 Miller's. Made of mild steel. Requires cotter pin for spring stop.
Replaces Cub Cadet part IHR1; for models 73, and , but can be used with Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, , , , and Requires jam nut for spring stop. Can be used with Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, , , , , , and Models , and with caliper [axle] brakes. NOTES: Install cotter pin and flat washer in middle of rod to serve as a stop for the compression spring. NOTE: Install cotter pin in middle of rod to serve as a stop for the compression spring. Replace OEM adjusting nut with worn threads to maintain correct clutch adjustment on virtually all clutch drive Cub Cadet garden tractors.
Guaranteed to stay tight. High quality aftermarket nylon insert self-locking nut. OEM Cub Cadet nylon insert self-locking nut, part High quality and durable. Spring-loaded catch and release action. Makes clutch adjustment much easier, more accurate and quicker than using an ordinary open-end or boxed-end wrench.
Necessary to maintain correct clutch adjustment and reduce clutch noise. Also fits mower deck lift handle rod. OEM Cub Cadet part 's , Clutch Pedal Return Springs.
Fits Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, , , , , , , and Heavy duty. The same can be done to a new bearing to ensure that it will last a long time. I've done this many times when I rebuild clutch assemblies and have never had one complaint!
The fresh grease will help keep the balls within the bearing well-lubricated and cool, preventing them from further wear. But if the bearing is badly worn or if you're in doubt about doing this, then perhaps install a new one. Install it with the collar the center part that sticks out towards the clutch disc.
Wash the entire bearing with either electrical contact cleaner , brake parts cleaner , cleaning solvent or paint thinner until the rollers are free of the drill cuttings and debris on the inside.
It's clean when the sound changes when it's spun by hand and when it spins more freely. But don't spin the bearing with the air! Doing this could further damage the bearing! Using either a needle grease injector resembles a hypodermic syringe that attaches to an automotive grease gun or a chainsaw bar tip grease gun , pump the bearing through the drilled hole until it's full of lubricating grease. It's full when the grease starts to ooze out of the dust seals.
Thoroughly wipe the grease from around the hole with a clean rag and apply a dab of clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant over the hole. And do not "ride the clutch"! Take your foot off the clutch pedal when the tractor is in motion.
Bearing swivels and is centered in retainers. Bearing inner race has 2 Allen set screws for locking to driveshaft. Stamp steel retainers only.
Reuse old retainers. Bronze Bushing. Grind or drill hole in bushing to lubricate through Zerk grease fitting. Dimensions: 1" I. Includes needle thrust bearing and two thrust washers.
Needle Thrust Bearing only. Replace worn-beyond-reuse clutch release collar housing. Some others were converted to armored personnel carriers known as the "Stuart Kangaroo ", and some were converted into command vehicles and known as "Stuart Command". M3s, M3A3s, and M5s continued in British service until the end of the war, but British units had a smaller proportion of these light tanks than U.
The other major Lend-Lease recipient of the M3, the Soviet Union , was less happy with the tank, considering it under-gunned, under-armored, likely to catch fire, and too sensitive to fuel quality. The M3's radial aircraft engine required high-octane fuel, which complicated Soviet logistics as most of their tanks used diesel or low-octane fuel. High fuel consumption led to a poor range characteristic, especially sensitive for use as a reconnaissance vehicle. Also, compared to Soviet tanks, the M3's narrower tracks resulted in a higher ground pressure, getting them more easily stuck in the Rasputitsa muddy conditions of spring and autumn and winter snow conditions on the Eastern Front.
In , the Red Army tried out the M5 and decided that the upgraded design was not much better than the M3. Being less desperate than in , the Soviets turned down an American offer to supply the M5. M3s continued in Red Army service at least until One of the more successful uses of the M5 in combat came during the Battle of Anzio when breaking through German forces surrounding the beachhead.
The tactics called for an initial breakthrough by a medium tank company to destroy the heavier defenses, followed by an infantry battalion who would attack the German troops who were being left behind the medium tanks. Since many hidden fortifications and positions would have survived the initial medium tank assault, the infantry would then be confronted by any remaining fortified German troops.
Behind the infantry came the M5s of a light tank company, who would attack these positions when directed to by the Infantry, usually by the use of green Smoke grenade.
The U. Army initially deployed Stuart light tanks to the Philippines in September , equipping the U. Army's th and nd Tank Battalions. The first U. Morin, with his 37mm cannon locked in recoil maneuvered his M3 off the road, but took a direct hit while doing so, and his tank began to burn. The other four M3s were also hit, but managed to leave the field under their own power. Morin was wounded, and he and his crew were captured by the enemy. Due to the naval nature of the Pacific campaign, steel for warship production took precedence over tanks for the IJA, [21] creating by default an IJA light tank that performed admirably in the jungle terrain of the South Pacific.
By the same measure, although the US was not hampered by industrial restrictions, the U. M3 light tank proved to be an effective armored vehicle for fighting in jungle environments. By the time the Japanese had been stopped at Imphal , only one British Stuart remained operational.
Although the U. When the U. Army joined the North African Campaign in late , Stuart units still formed a large part of its armor strength. After the disastrous Battle of Kasserine Pass , the U. For the rest of the war, most U. In Europe, Allied light tanks had to be given cavalry and infantry fire support roles since their main cannon armament could not compete with heavier enemy armored fighting vehicles. However, the Stuart was still effective in combat in the Pacific Theater , as Japanese tanks were both relatively rare and were lighter in armor than even Allied light tanks.
In this environment, the Stuart was only moderately more vulnerable than medium tanks. In addition to the U. With the limitations of both the main gun see below and armor, the Stuart's combat role in Western Europe was severely hampered. Light tank companies were often paired with cavalry reconnaissance units, or else used for guarding or screening, and even used in supply or messengers roles for medium tank units.
On 9 December , the th Tank Battalion advanced on a hill near Bogheim but was subjected to a counter-attack by German forces, including a heavy self-propelled assault gun , which took "over direct hits" at ranges as low as 75 yd 69 m with "no appreciable damage". In January , a report to General Eisenhower concluded that the Stuart was "obsolete in every respect as a fighting tank" and that it would not "turn the German fire or the 37mm gun damage the German tanks or SP guns".
After the war, some countries chose to equip their armies with cheap and reliable war surplus Stuarts. The Chinese Nationalist Army having suffered great attrition as a result of the ensuing civil war, rebuilt their armored forces by acquiring surplus vehicles left behind in the Philippines by the U. The M5 played a significant role in the First Kashmir War between India and Pakistan, including the battle of Zoji-la pass fought at an elevation of nearly 12, ft.
M3A3s were used by British forces in Indonesia during the Indonesian National Revolution , where they suffered heavy losses due to the Stuart's thin armour plating. During the s and s, the Portuguese Army also used tanks received as military aid from Canada in the war in Angola , where its all terrain capability compared to wheeled vehicles was greatly appreciated.
During the four-day long Football War of , El Salvador invaded Honduras in an all-out-war strike using the M3 Stuart as the main battle tank. El Salvador captured eight major cities before the Organization of American States arranged a ceasefire. Some were refurbished locally in and remained in service as late as The fleet was withdrawn in , owing to parts shortage.
The M3 Stuart is still on the active list in the Armed Forces of Paraguay , with ten of the tanks being overhauled in to provide a training capability. In the s, the Brazilian company Bernardini developed a series of radical Stuart upgrades for the Brazilian Army. Yugoslav partisans received Stuarts from the British Army. In , obsolete as tanks, many were modified to carry specialized armament:.
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. Redirected from M5 Stuart. For the medium tank, see M3 Lee. This article includes a list of general references , but it remains largely unverified because it lacks sufficient corresponding inline citations. Please help to improve this article by introducing more precise citations. November Learn how and when to remove this template message. Type of Light tank. Tanks of the United States.
The Light Tank still has to depend on speed, maneuver, and selection of suitable targets if it is to be of very much use. In spite of the fact that the training of this Battalion was not pointed toward reconnaissance lines, we have been able to accomplish our missions with a Cavalry Reconnaissance Group with a much greater degree of success than in any other assignment to date.
Tanks portal. Three other light tanks of the company were used as liaison between the medium tanks companies of the regimental command post. This use of light tanks proved to be the most effective way of maintaining communication between the tanks and infantry regimental headquarters. ISBN Retrieved 18 June
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