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So, why is commercial walnut lumber steamed? The sapwood of walnut is white and most woodworkers and all furniture factories find it an unattractive addition to furniture made from walnut. The clearest wood in a log will be found on the outside of the log because this is the wood laid down as the tree matures, its young limbs fall off, and the knots heal over. The outside of the log is also were the white sap wood is located. The practice of steaming was developed to turn sapwood into the color of heartwood.
It has been found that when fresh cut walnut lumber is heated in wet steam for a sufficient length of time the sapwood turns nearly as dark as the color of the heartwood. Once the sap wood gets to a temperature around the boiling point of water in the presence of wet steam the sapwood will turn black as a result of a chemical change you can replicate this by experimenting in your pressure cooker.
The process does not involve diffusing dye from heartwood to sapwood. A typical steamer is shown in this picture. Every wood species, and even individual workpieces of the same species, can react differently to steam bending.
Start with these best practices and then let experience be your guide. Keep notes on species, thickness, bend radius, and steaming time, and always bend at least one more part than you need.
When cooled, the lignin hardens, fixing the wood in the new shape. Steamed wood compresses considerably but stretches little. For tight bends less than 4" radius , a steel tension strap with attached end blocks applied to the outside of the bend minimizes stretching [ Drawing below ].
Mild bends, with minimal stretching along the outside, do not need strapping. Parts incorporating convex and concave curves in the same plane require a two-part form to sandwich the workpiece [ Drawing below ] or special tension-strap hardware [ Sources ].
Tension-strap hardware also is available to form parts with bends in two planes. For best results, use air-dried lumber, with dehumidification-dried lumber a second choice. The heat of kiln drying makes lignin less susceptible to softening by steaming. Use kiln-dried lumber only for gentle bends. All temperate-zone hardwoods chart below steam-bend well and, Steamer For Bending Wood Network in general, bend better than softwoods. Steam-bending other temperate-zone species is possible, but limit their use to gentle bends.
Among tropical hardwoods, mahogany gives acceptable results. The brittleness of highly resinous tropical exotics make them unsuitable for bending. Regardless of the species you use, careful board selection increases chances of successful bends. Choose straight-grained lumber without knots or other defects and avoid decay even slight spalting. The greater the run-off angle, the more likely the piece will break when bent.
Splitting wood from a larger straight-grained billet guarantees straight, parallel grain but is not always practical. Straight stock runs through a planer or jointer easier than bent pieces, so do as much sawing, surfacing, or shaping as possible before bending. Surface irregularities can cause splintering, so remove rough saw marks.
Holes or mortises distort or they cause the part to collapse or split; perform these operations after bending. Leave extra length at both ends for trimming. Where a bend is near the end of the part, extra length also provides the leverage needed to anchor the bend. Cut stock for parts requiring tight bends so the annual rings lay flatwise against the surface of the bending form [ Drawing delow ].
For mild bends, grain orientation is less important. Steaming takes about one hour per inch of workpiece thickness and parts must stay on the bending form for one hour, so unless you make more than one form, the steam box only has to accommodate one part at a time.
For efficient use of the steam boiler [ Sources ], a steam box should be only large enough to hold the part blanks with room all around for good circulation.


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