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Tear-out can happen cutting across or against the grain, cutting too deeply, using a dull bit or just running into a hidden flaw. Visualize a feather cut by a router. It would be a mess, of course, but the point is that when you rout against the grain see photo, left , the wood reacts just like a feather.
The grain is running right into the bit rotation. But when you run the router with the grain see photo, right , you get a smooth cut. Trying to hog out a clean edge in one pass is asking for tear-out trouble. Instead of gambling with an expensive piece of wood, take the time to make at least two passes: one heavy pass and a very light final pass.
Because the final pass is just a shaving cut, the bit is a lot less likely to catch and tear the wood fibers. The result is a clean, tear-out-free shearing cut. Down-cutting spiral bits work especially well for trimming or cutting through delicate veneers, melamine, laminates and highly figured woods. To make a zero-clearance fence, set the router bit at the height and depth you want. If you have removable subfences, turn the router on and slowly slide the infeed side of the fence into the bit.
If your fence has a fixed face, clamp temporary subfences on both sides. With the router running, loosen the clamps on the infeed fence enough to slowly slide the subfences into the spinning bit. Sometimes you have no choice but to cut your loss and make a new piece. Other times, you can afford to trim the piece and start over.
Just rip a bit off the damaged edge and then rout it again. Rout the end grain first and use a backer board. The backer board supports the cut so the corner has no chance to tear away.
Clamp the pieces together for rock-solid support. Routing against the grain may be unavoidable. This will cause the splinters to break off at the cutout before they can ruin your profile. The best way to make plunge cuts is to hold one end of the board tightly against the outfeed fence and the other end away from the spinning bit. Push the board against the fence, then pull it out.
Move the board forward an inch or two and repeat. Reversing the normal direction of the router feed is called climb-cutting. Climb-cutting can involve either moving clockwise with a handheld router or pushing wood from left to right on a router table.
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