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Search Go. Topics Cabinetry. Choosing Hardware. This simple knife was made from an old worn out file with rudimentary tools. If you have ever wanted to make a knife but don't have conventional metal working tools, this project is for you. In order to make the file workable, it needs to be annealed. This will make it less tough and easily shaped. To anneal the file, turn on the map gas torch and heat it until it loses its magnetism.

I screwed a magnet to a long stick to keep my hands far away from the hot temperatures. Let the file cool down on it's own. If you have some, placing the file in a pile of sand will help it cool down slowly.

Clamp the file in a vice and shape it using a hacksaw or angle grinder. Once the rough shape is achieved, refine it using a strip sander.

Cut a 30 degree angle on a piece of scrap wood and clamp it to the strip sander. This will act as a guide for the bevel of the knife. Slowly drag the blade of the knife over the guide until the blade is almost sharp. Do not sharpen it at this point. The bevel needs to be on the more aggressive side of the file. The other side will need to be ground flat to ensure a sharp blade.

Mark pin hole locations in the knife blank with a center punch. Be sure to clamp the blade in place. Do not hold it by hand. Using a brad point drill, mark the locations of the pins in the scales.

Drill corresponding holes in the scales. With the pins in place, trace the tang on the inside of the scales. Remove the excess wood of the scales. To harden the blade, it needs to be heated just past the point when it loses its ability to be attracted to a magnet. Once heated to this point, quench it in oil. I used canola oil as it doesn't smell bad compared to other oils used for hardening steel.

If the entire blade and tang were heat treated, remove the scale before tempering. Since only the blade portion of this knife was hardened, I skipped removing the scale at this time.

Removing the scale will allow you to see the color of the blade after tempering. Heat the blade in an oven to degrees F for an hour Dovetail Marking Knife Ltd and a half to two hours. I used a toaster oven I have the the garage, but any oven will do.

Once heated, turn the oven off and allow it to cool until you can handle it by hand. It should be a pale yellow color. Once tempered, remove the scale from the blade. I used a set of whetstones to hone and sharpen the blade. Wrap the blade in painters tape. But at least it was far easier to order spares online as opposed to a bespoke magnetic pin!

So I got to work re-designing my original knife and faced a number of different challenges. The original knife required the blade to be cut shorter before being inserted into the ferrule. But I did not want people to need to cut down blades in order to replace them. Not only from a convenience standpoint, but also from a safety perspective. This mean't that the ferrule had to be longer on the new design to accept the entire blade.

The nice thing about this is that it's added a nice amount of mass to the front of the knife so that it required less effort to cut, and feels like a higher quality item.

I wanted the grub screw to be in the centre of the ferrule along it's length. But after increasing the length of the ferrule, it meant that the grub screw hole was no longer aligned with the hole in the blade. This was a big problem. If the grub screw was to be over-tightened against the side of the blade, there is a high chance the blade could chip and fill the blade slot with metal fragments.

As you'll see later in this article, these are impossible to remove. I tried so hard to avoid this being a carbon copy of David Barrons knife , but on the flip side there was so little I wanted to change about his original design because I loved it so much. In the end I decided to remove the bead at the end of the handle, simplify the shape, I also removed the shoulder that leads the handle into a ferrule, and I was to offer it in a variety of materials.

With the addition of a visible grub screw, the design is now noticeably different to Davids original. One thing I couldn't distance myself from was the thumb-hold. I thought it was genius. In addition, due to the fact my blade was removable, it meant that the blade could simply be flipped the other way around and it would be suitable for both right and left handers!

The lathe had sat idle in my workshop for 4 months while I gathered materials to test the first batch. And I decided to film my first ever attempt at using the metal lathe for Episode 12 of Turning Tuesday. At this point, the knives were complete secret.

Barely anyone knew what I was up to! This is where the real challenges arose. I'm pretty sure I exhausted all potential cock-ups possible before finally coming out with a design and a process that works well. Below are some of my favourite screw ups. There was a split in the rosewood that I didn't see.

Suffice to say it didn't like the skew chisel touching it. I forgot to cut the blade slot before attaching the ferrule. Then ended up mashing it anyway I decided to highly polish the ferrule as an experiment, then proceeded to overtighten it in the chuck jaws The slitting saws I use are extremely flexible.

One second I was chamfering the copper, the next second my pants were brown. The shank was too tight in the handle, so I decided to machine it down slightly.

Ended up mashing the slot shut. When the araldyte joint failed, causing the ferrule to rotate around the blade holder. You could get a grub screw in that, right? When I forgot to set the depth stop on the drill and blew through the opposite side of the ferrule. One of the many occurrences where the tap snapped while cutting the thread. This is one of the most annoying! Aradyte rapid didn't work for the wood to metal joint either.

These often launched off the lathe. When the slitting saw broke and I decided to mount it on the lathe afterwards as an experiment.

It didn't like it. When you're fitting the blade for the final time and it snaps in the slot. The only slitting saws I could find were available from China. When I got carried away while sanding the handle and ended up shaping the brass ferrule too! A huge problem I faced was breakout within the slot.

After adhering the ferrule to the blade holder, every time I drilled and tapped the hole there would be small amounts of metal that would prevent the blade from being fully inserted. I considered assembling the ferrule and blade holder dry while drilling and tapping the hole, taking it apart, cleaning out the slot, then re-assembling it. But this would almost certainly make aligning the threads difficult.

Not to mention the potential of threadlocker leaking into the pre-drilled grub screw hole! I found that inserting a piece of 0.

I usually reserve these ones for myself, friends, and display items if I were to ever set up a stall at an event. After completing the first batch of knives, I have since subcontracted the metal components of the knives out to a small local company.

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