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box-joint-radial-arm-saw-system This shifting allows you to put it in its normal sytsem during line-up and general work, and then, when you box joint radial arm saw system to get down to the business of precision, slide the fence over to a clean spot and make a nice fresh kerf cut through. I just finished trim on 12 windows You simply need to learn and use Jon Eakes' methods. Thank you! You want all the tables to be in the same plane, and the fence must be perpendicular to the travel of the saw in the cross rxdial position. I got to thank my shop teacher in high school for that. Hence the rest of this book is as originally published.

There are two reasons for using wood cuts, not metal squares, as the fine tuning instruments for a radial arm saw. Firstly, by using manipulation tricks when cutting wood, you can adjust the saw square to the table for a 6 inch depth and square from the fence for a 26 inch cut -- twice the actual cutting capacity of the machine.

This means that within its actual cutting capacities it will be twice as precise as can possibly be measured with metal squares. Secondly, the end product is really what counts so I don't care if something may look out of line on the machine as long as the results of the blade passing through wood gives me the perfection I demand. This difference in apparent alignment and actual cutting results can be due to the fact that the metal square by necessity gives a static picture of the machine's alignment.

The blade engaged in wood gives a dynamic measurement identical to actual working conditions. We often scratch up the edge of a piece of wood or create considerable scrap trying to determine exactly where the point of entry will be for a cutting edge. Whether a drill press or a table saw, we are used to a lot of trial and error.

The fence on a radial arm saw is usually a sorry looking chopped up mess, often hiding down below the wood to be cut. The gaping hole in the vicinity of where the blade passes through provides no backup against splinters on the back side of the cut and certainly is useless in guessing where the blade will strike the work piece.

You must get used to the idea that the fence can be shifted an inch or two to the right or the left without really affecting its function at all as a back stop. This shifting allows you to put it in its normal position during line-up and general work, and then, when you want to get down to the business of precision, slide the fence over to a clean spot and make a nice fresh kerf cut through. This new cut defines quite precisely both sides of the cuts you are about to make and backs up against splintering on the backside of the work piece at the same time.

See the graphic. Unfortunately there is no precision guide for ripping so the final check on a rip setting is to actually cut a piece of wood and verify the results before putting the real work piece to the blade.

Can you please recommend a saw blade for a 10" DeWalt radial arm saw. The saw is mainly used to cross and rip cut softer and ply woods. For general purpose work, I use a carbide tipped combination blade -- the one with 4 little cross cut teeth then one large rip tooth with its large dust gully, and that set of teeth repeated all around the blade.

It is not a perfect rip nor a perfect cross cut blade, but it does both well. For rough ripping Oak I have an old 4 tooth 10" blade, yup, only 4 teeth, but it rips oak like butter. For clean cross cutting you might use a blade with from 40 to 90 teeth! For speciality cuts, see the learning curve on Speciality Blades.

I wanna have this book printed out but what's with all the blank pages with nothing but a page number and all the pages where there's only writing on one tiny bit of tue page? Out of pages 8 have nothing but page numbers. Why have a page 0? And a whole lot more only have writing on a tiny like 3x3 spacing or at most half the page. Lots of waste there. On page 8 of the book, page 10 of the PDF , you will find the answers to your questions about printing.

In fact, if you select the ringed binder layout in Word you will have space for the binder punches on the right side of even numbered pages, and on the left side of odd numbered pages.

Then the photos and text that were designed to read across an open book will still read easily. Jon - I purchased a Craftsman Radial Arm Saw in the late 's, but did not discover your book until about five years ago. I bought a previously owned but nearly pristine copy through Amazon. My copy is now well marked with highlighter and marginal notes.

I have found it very valuable in keeping my saw set up for precision as well as safety. I still have all of my "original equipment" body parts - something too many table saw users cannot say. I still have my original saw, and I am able to do better work with it now that I know much more than was in the original pitiful excuse for a manual.

Thank you for your work on that. And I really like the cover art as well, having been a fan of classical music most of my life. Mr Eakes, I am so pleased to be able to communicate with you.

Fortunately, the move didn't require downsizing my shop. I am still getting my shop back into working shape and this week has me finally getting to the radial saw. Your book is once again proving to be invaluable. Thank you and warmest regards, Tom. I've had this book for a few years now and I consider it to be on the same level of usefulness and relevance as Wally Kunkel's masterpiece.

I bought your book right after getting my first DeWalt radial arm saw. I've since "collected" a couple more saws and find this work to be unmatched. It's easy to understand, well presented and very thorough. I tuned a DeWalt R 5 years ago and it is as accurate today as it was then thanks to this book. Thanks for the compliments. It is really good to feel that I wrote an "evergreen" book.

I'm trying to decide how best to extend the work area. The three options are: 1 build cabinets or tables and place them on either side of the RAS table, 2 build a single cabinet or table in such a way that the saw sits in the middle, with a one-piece table spanning the cabinet or table tops, or 3 removeable extensions on both sides of the saw.

In option 1, the adjustment might make the saw table out of plane with the cabinet or table tops. That leaves option 3. Page 91 of the book actually talks about table extensions, including one plan for a portable installation.

First realize that nothing is "impossible" to adjust. You want all the tables to be in the same plane, and the fence must be perpendicular to the travel of the saw in the cross cut position. So if wings are temporary, they must be adjustable, lining up with the saw work surface.

If you have a single table, then the saw mounting must have a "pivot" to get the blade travel perpendicular to the fence. That could be as easy as one snug fit and three oversized holes for the column base mounting bolts.

Remember the critical fence is about two feet each side of the blade -- the rest is just support for weight. What you want is flat with straight edges. Then the final adjustments are made on the saw itself -- in fact that's what the book is all about.

So the most important question you have is: Do you want to travel with your saw or not? Do you have 8 feet accessible on both sides of the saw at least a horizontal slot about 5" high -- above that you can have overhanging cupboards! I saw a creative garage arrangement where the saw was very close to the driveway side of the garage. Then there was a large "mail slot" that could receive an extension wing that could be set-up in the driveway.

The whole thing could be advanced so that the fence cleared the door opening, allowing for ripping plywood. The core work surface and fence are critical -- the rest are just support. You can shim side supports to level and lock it all in, or have adjustment screws for both the wings and the extension fences. The fence directly on the work surface will be Box Joint Radial Arm Saw Youtube changed often either for function or too many cut points.

Don't dream of making it a perfect permanent 16 feet long. However, the arm has restricted movement when swung to the left, hard-stopping at around degrees, whereas when swinging to the right, it goes past 0 degrees to about before stopping.

Hello Peter, What comes to mind is the possibility that the stop collar has rotated on the main shaft. These are usually welded in place, but it might be worth looking at. Hi Neil, Most people only used radial arm saws as a cut-off saw and when the sliding miter boxes came out with Box Joint Radial Arm Saw Error their extended reach, they filled that need easier and cheaper. Few people ever learned to use a radial arm saw in a precise manner -- so they blamed the saw -- thinking that the table saw was easier to use. Actually the table saw is very complicated to use for complicated tasks because you are always moving the wood, not the saw.

So it became a market question and now radial arm saws are only made for industry. Hello Jerry, Sorry, they have been out of print for years. It would be cheaper to get the PDF and print it.

Hello Wayne, Cutting crown moulding using the fence is extremely simple for odd sized corners as you simply adjust the miter setting in either a miter saw or a radial arm saw. The book does show jigs for working with the fence. Trying to do compound cuts flat on the table require having the actual corner, miter and bevel numbers. What the book does is get your saw accurate enough that they will actually cut specific angles. Hi Jon I need some help to do crown moulding against the fence and laying down does your book show how to do this.

As you know the corners of the rooms are not square.. My Craftsman 10" machine has never performed better. I used to enjoy the hilarious results when I would cut off the end of a 4x6 by rotating and never get a square end.

Now the cuts line up. The new table is flat, the column adjustment is smooth, and roller head tracks are clean. But I have a new problem - when project parts don't fit together now, I can't blame the machine anymore. What can we do about that? Thanks very much. The radial arm saw has to be one of my favorite of all shop woodworking tools..

Growing up with one,and being the first power saw I used as a teen my father had one always set up in the basement most likely had an impact on my opinion. You can't beat the radial arm saw for precision dado's and crosscuts This book has to be one of the best books ever written, concerning any type of shop woodworking equipment Concisely written and complied to the utmost detail.

The reader will understand all the adjustments on the machine, and most importantly, how these adjustments interact which each other This book has been on my library shelf for a few decades.. I liked it so much, I bought the hardcover version off Ebay a few years back Now I have two copies to look at Jon's 70's style mop haircut which graces the cover..!

Though at times when looking at his photo, I can't help but think of Dudley Moore in his "Arthur" movie role Tuxedo and all!

Great work Jon I had always hated and feared the radial arm saw that my Dad bought craftsman circa and was prepared to push it out into the rain, until set straight by my friend Douglas, who pointed me at your book. Douglas said something like "The properly configured radial arm saw is one of the finest pieces of wood working equipment that you will encounter. You simply need to learn and use Jon Eakes' methods.

I downloaded your book about a year ago, and I am now a fan of both the saw, and your work. No one with any sense would ever do that. That is one of the first things covered in the operator's manual.

Yes, Phil, miter cutting is frustrating. One is sure that the cut is correct, until one try to connect all parts Reply 11 years ago on Introduction. I like to say the first three corners will always fit. It is the fourth corner that is always the problem. But, that is just a piece of humor and not really accurate. The beauty of a miter guide like I have shown is that, as you said, so long as the guide provides a 90 degree corner, the cuts can be 44 and 46 degrees, but they still make a nice tight 90 degree corner.

Thank you for your comment. I always went out winning 3 to 1, then! Thank you! I get frustrated with mitre cuts. I just finished trim on 12 windows The only drawback to this is when you're trying to cut a long or heavy piece it is more difficult to support.

But I'm sure i can rig up something! If I were mitering long, heavy pieces I would move my saw out to the middle of my garage floor so I had plenty of room. Then I would get my hands on some supports so the pieces I am cutting are very well supported at the same level as the surface of the miter guide.

Roller systems, commercial or home-built, have been very popular in years past. They look a lot like roller systems you see in package shipping depots. I have used sawhorses and clamped a 1 x 4 vertically to each of the sawhorses so the pieces I am cutting can rest on the tops of the 1 x 4's. By Phil B Follow. More by the author:. About: I miss the days when magazines like Popular Mechanics had all sorts of DIY projects for making and repairing just about everything.

Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Ak 9 years ago on Introduction. Reply Upvote. Phil B Ak Reply 9 years ago on Introduction. Phil B rimar Reply 11 years ago on Introduction.

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