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wood-scraper-sharpening-zoom So one weekend I tried all these techniques then compared the results. Straighten the opposite edge, too. I hold the scraper and pull the burnisher across the edge similar to the way I peel a potato with a wood scraper sharpening zoom. So I took a page from the playbook of David Charleswortha British craftsman. This technique, called the ruler trick, sharpens only the section of steel up by shagpening cutting edge. You wood scraper sharpening zoom not need to apply sharpwning while sharpening. The edge you're about to work on is sharp, which means there's very little steel right out at the cutting edge—which means it takes very little pressure to push it up into a tiny burr.

Once you've sharpened one edge, turn the scraper over in your vise and file the other edge likewise. Conventional instruction now calls for honing on sharpening stones, but if you do a good job with the file you can skip honing and never miss it. The final two steps are done with a burnisher , which is a short rod of very hard steel polished to a very smooth surface. To "burnish" is "to polish; make shiny or lustrous by rubbing".

The burnisher will finish the job of sharpening the scraper's edges and then gently shape them into high-angle cutters. Lay the scraper on a firm, flat surface such as your bench, and wipe a liberal smear of heavy oil along the edge. Use 20 or 30 weight motor oil or the like, not thin cutting oil; you want to lubricate the scraper to be sure the burnisher slides smoothy with no chance of biting into it and tearing the cutting edges.

Bring the burnisher on flat, with your thumb bearing down hard directly above the scraper's edge, and stroke its full length fifteen or twenty times. This will make the surface smoother hence sharper , and both harder and tougher as well, so the tiny burr you're soon to create will be able to stand up to the kind of hard work you're going to ask of it.

Apply eight to ten pounds' pressure; enough to feel firm without hurting your thumb. Flip the scraper over and burnish the opposite side, then turn it around lengthwise and do the other two edges as well. We might be smarter to call this "forming the edge" to avoid confusion about what "burr" means. In this case, it does not mean the sort of torn, ragged cornice we're usually talking about when we use the word.

On a scraper the "burr" is actually the clean, smooth and continuous cutting edge created by filing and burnishing. You're going to use the burnisher very gently to push that cutting edge up to form a tiny, sharp hook that runs the full length of the scraper. The edge you're about to work on is sharp, which means there's very little steel right out at the cutting edge—which means it takes very little pressure to push it up into a tiny burr.

Applying no more than about 8 ounces of pressure, stroke the edge full length five to ten times. Now wipe off the oil and feel the results. The burr should hardly be big enough to detect; it should feel mostly just like a very sharp edge. A distinct, heavy burr won't work well at all, so if you've produced such a thing, use the burnisher to lay it out flat and try again. Turn a burr on all four edges, so you'll be able to do plenty of work before you need to start over. As you use the scraper, its tiny edge won't last terribly long, and eventually it will begin making more dust than shavings.

At this point you probably won't have to resharpen unless you've be doing something rough such as scraping glue squeeze-out, which might have damaged rather than merely dulled the edges.

Lay on a smear of oil and use the burnisher lightly to lay any remaining burr out flat. Now repeat the process of burnishing and turning the burr just as before. Often you'll be able to do this several times before the edges are worn beyond easy repair.

Then it will be time to pick up the file and start from scratch. Scrapers may be pushed or pulled as you please. Pulling is the soundest way to scrape large flat areas efficiently.

With eight fingers distributing pressure evenly behind the blade, lean the top edge toward you as you pull it along the grain. To avoid creating a washboard effect, skew the scraper slightly, first to the left for a couple of strokes, then to the right, rather than facing it consistently perpendicular to the grain.

Pushing the scraper, with your thumbs bowing the center forward, narrows the cutting area and allows you to work very precisely, removing material from a narrow line or a specific spot without disturbing the surroundings. The scraper's high cutting angle makes it generate a lot of heat; it doesn't take long for your thumbs to start sizzling. Use the more coarse grinding wheel to shape the scraper and the finer sharpening wheel to sharpening the final edge.

Place the scraper firmly to the platform and simply contact the scraper bevel edge to the sharpening wheel gently. You do not need to apply force while sharpening. Round nose scrapers need to be evenly pivoted from left to right matching the curved shape of the tool nose. Once a new, fresh, shiny edge is applied to the bevel edge of the scraper, the sharpening process is complete.

Important Side Note — Wear your protective safety glasses and respirator while doing any work at the sharpening station. Wood dust is hazardous and must be avoided. Metal dust from the sharpening wheel is even more hazardous. Protect yourself. You can test this yourself by running your finger over the front top cutting edge of the tool before and after you hone it smooth and after you sharpen on the sharpening wheel.

Of the three ways to apply a burr, the sharpening wheel process probably makes the smallest burr, but a burr is created. The bevel edge of the scraper is generally intact. Use the diamond honing card to apply a burr by holding the card flush with the bevel edge and make up and down motions. The advantage of applying a honed burr is that the process is quick and removes only a fraction of steel from the scraper bevel compared to the sharpening wheel. The process for using the burnishing tool is to pull the device across the top edge with force once or twice.

I hold the scraper and pull the burnisher across the edge similar to the way I peel a potato with a peeler. My thumb is positioned to support and brace the motion, and the rest of my hand pulls the burnisher across the cutting tip. Think of the burr as a little knife mounted to the microtip of a stable platform, because…well, that is what it is. On the other hand, we do want the stable, secure characteristics of that metal, but with a sharp edge as well. I find that pulling a burr with a burnishing tool makes a better burr than the one coming straight off the grinder wheel, or the hand-honed burr.

Be sure to read 3 Surprising Round Nose Scraper Hacks next to learn how to make those smooth cuts using a round nose scraper. Usually, I will wait to return to the grinder until the bevel edge is looking pretty worn or uneven. The honing card can quickly clean up the edge and freshen up the burr between more thorough trips to the sharpening wheel.

If it takes longer to clean the bevel, I will shorten the time between return visits to the wheel and hand hone or burnish the rest of the time. Remember to clean up the top surface of the scraper well first, hone or sharpen the bevel, then apply a fresh burr, and you are on your way to making smooth, clean scraping cuts with your scrapers. Do you have a page on negative rake scrapers? What do you think? I have seen other scrapers with different angles and non-matching angles for top and bottom.

Username or Email Address. Remember Me. Extreme Angle of Attack The angle of a scraper bevel is vital to understand and get right. My round nose scrapers and flat scrapers are sharpened to about 65 to degree bevel angles. Very nice website, Kent, thank you. Great photos and discussion. Bill, Thanks for writing.

I may consider making an article about this topic. Stay tuned.

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