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waterlox-finish-on-walnut-jacket К использованию масла WATERLOX ORIGINAL MARINE (SEALER) мы приступили с конца мая. Лето года отличается большим количеством дождливых дней. Как производители садовой мебели, мы заинтересованы выпускать только качественную продукцию. В настоящий момент, мы держим на открытом воздухе под дождем 4 садовых кресла Адирондак, два из которых были обработаны маслом WATERLOX ORIGINAL MARINE (SEALER) изначально, а два других (из первых партий обработанные AUSTRALIA TIMBER OIL, CABOT) после полутора лет проведенных на улице прошли дополнительную обработку. Пропитка для внутренних и наружных работ по дереву. Идеально подходит для палуб, сайдингов, перил, мебели. Превосходная защита от УФ лучей, влажности, перемены температур, грибка, плесени. Расход: 45 — 56 м2/галлон (3,78л) в зависимости от впитываемости и рельефа поверхности. Поставляется в прозрачной базе. Может наноситься в готовом виде или тонироваться в нужный оттенок. Актуальный цвет поверхности может отличаться от образцов в зависимости от породы и степени обработки древесины. Стоимость колеровки расчитывается отдельно, исходя из расхода красителя для создания заказанного цвета. Walnut finishing using Waterlox. marktrav | Posted in Finishing on August 6, am. I have a piece of Walnut that I am finishing with Waterlox, and even after the third coat, with steel wool between coats, I still get a distinct grain pattern in the reflected light. (ie. the pores are still open). Do I have to use a pore filler to get a relatively smooth finish? While wet, the luminescence of the grain is beautiful. However, once dry, the reflection detracts from this due to the finish conforming to the pore structure. In a past project, I finished Mahogany (not quite as open pore. See below floor buffer tips. Hi again Priscilla — I get your concern. Our waterlox finish on walnut jacket, color-infused tung oil enhances the color of wood, while providing a protective matte finish. It can be used by itself or with other Waterlox stains and finishes to achieve different colors and gloss levels. Thanks for taking The time to post and help the rest of us DIYers!!! Fix the major imperfections.

Thanks for all the pointers! We just finished coat 3 of the waterlox original. We are thinking of not doing the satin finish as we love the feel and look with just the original. After we finish up with coat 4 should we sand again?

And also what cleaners would you recommend to extend the life of our butcher block island top. I think you are asking if your final step will be to sand the final coat of Waterlox you lay down. The answer from my experience is no. You should sand before your final coat with a fine grit paper. As I shared in Tip 9, I use grit. After that you can lay down your final coat — either the Original Waterlox or the satin finish.

I hope your final coat came out great! We are getting ready to start our project. We are going to stain it a deep walnut color first and then apply the Waterlox. Is this Product an oil that penetrates the wood or is it a poly that leaves a clear hard layer between the wood and whatever is on the counter? Erika — thanks for getting in touch and apologies that I am just now posting a reply.

I recently had to do that to repair a bad burn — hot pan lid on butcherblock — that went deep into the countertop. Great information, thanks for the help! One question though. In tip 8, you say potentially up to 5 coats of Waterlox. Is that including the Satin finish? If I remember correctly this extra coat was due to an odd piece of butcherblock which just seemed super dried out from the git-go and sucked down Waterlox fast.

I also think the conditions that you apply Waterlox in makes a difference in the absorption rate. I applied it one hot hot HOT Chicago summer day and it dried surprisingly quickly. It was hard but I resisted the temptation to turn around and put down another coat in an effort to get my project completed fast.

Having done a few of these countertops I now know what the final coat should look and feel like. If you are unsure, and you have it to spare, do one more round.

Sort of like the first coat that just feels all wrong when it disappears on you Tip 6 , your final coat will feel all RIGHT. And feel it! Hope that answers your question — thanks for your comment! How many of the quarter cans did you use for say a small kitchen, about 19 linear feet of butcher block? Other sites say seal with waterlox on all sides.

Any thoughts on this? Also is it okay to do this in the garage or is that going to mess up acclimatizing. Hi Priscilla — thanks for reaching out.

I do seal the counter top and all of the sides. I have not sealed the bottom. I worried about this when I installed a butcherblock countertop over my dishwasher which is next to my sink. I thought the steam expelled from the dishwasher when I open the door might warp the countertop.

As I wrote in Tip 1, this stuff smells! Better to apply it outside of your living space. Hope this helps! Hi again Priscilla — I get your concern. As I wrote earlier, I do my Waterlox projects in the garage and summers in Chicago get hot and they get humid! And sometimes they are hot and humid at the same time! I recently purchased my butcher block home depot. I first applied 3 separate coats of mineral oil thinking that was the way I wanted to go.

However, after reading about waterlox, I have decided to go with waterlox. I have let the countertop sit for 30 days now. Am I safe to now apply waterlox? Hi Sheila — I used mineral oil on one butcherblock countertop years ago before I knew about Waterlox. Moving over to Waterlox, what worked for me was to completely sand that butcherblock down until I felt like I had a good clean dry base to apply the Waterlox to.

I then went through the steps of applying Waterlox and all was well. I think this might be because Waterlox is oil-based. If you were doing something like a water-based polyurethane on a countertop that was previously covered in mineral oil you might run into issues. All to say, if your conditions are like mine were, you should be fine. But you might check with Waterlox customer support about this as I did my particular countertop years ago and their formulas have changed since then.

I hope this helps! Hi, I used Waterlox original, 4 coats, for my maple tabletop. How much time show i allow to dry the table since the last coat until I can put my computer and heavy thinks on the table? Hi Marta — thanks for commenting.

I have always given Waterlox 7 days of cure-time before opening it up for business. I have not had any issues with marring the finish by using the counters after 7 days of cure time.

Hi, thanks for all the helpful tips! Do you use the tung oil sealer before the Original Waterlox? I think that just soaks into the wood and then I can start with my coats of Original? I put some of the tung oil sealer on the bottom as long as I had it off. Hi Brian — I do not use the tung oil sealer before the Original Waterlox. I do a lot of prep work before applying Waterlox — sanding, cleaning up dust — and then I just let loose with the Original stuff.

The first coat does pretty much disappear. Thanks for this tip. I will check out the tung oil sealer before diving into my next project. Sounds like a good way to not waste any of the Original Waterlox. You can do this procedure with any of our Original products or Urethanes. If you are struggling with a streaky satin finish, you can just follow this procedure and leave it as is and you should have a very nice satin sheen.

For smaller projects, continue to polish the surface with finer abrasives to restore clarity. Pumice stone and rotten stone are excellent for this. If you already have a lot of coats on and you are worried about applying too thick of a film, your final coat can just be a thin wiped on coat. All you are trying to do is to fill the scratches from the fine abrasives, so it will not take much product. If you are going to apply one more finish coat, rub your hand over the surface and feel for any imperfections.

It should be very smooth and you should not pick up any dust on your hand. You can always buff a little more if needed. All rights reserved. What is Waterlox? Tips for a Smoother Final Finish If you are having an issue getting the final finish to lay down just right, these tips can help you finish your project and make it the envy of your friends and neighbors.

Ensure you have enough product on the surface. Gather the proper materials. For a smaller project countertop, table top, vanity, etc. Can be done by hand, but the block makes it easier to just glide over the surface. We do not recommend the use of power sanders as these would be too aggressive.

Coarser paper may leave scratches in the film that are visible to the eye, finer paper may cause too much heat and may gum up the paper making it less effective. Natural Tung Oil comes from the nuts of the fast-growing tung tree. The oil is the key to getting a natural looking finish. These low odor and eco-friendly finishes provide the same great beauty and durability as other Waterlox finishes and are easy to apply and maintain.

Its resin-modified tung oil penetrates deep into wood fibers to create a waterproof barrier with a rich, distinctive look. Keep your Waterlox-finished surfaces clean and beautiful with our Wood Surface Cleaner for everyday cleaning and our Cleaner Concentrate for heavy duty cleaning.

Our buff-in, color-infused tung oil enhances the color of wood, while providing a protective matte finish. Our 11 shades are easy to maintain, low odor and VOC compliant in all 50 states. Preserve the beauty and integrity of outdoor and marine wood with a protective and elastic finish that guards against UV rays, harsh weather and moisture.

These crystal clear finishes provide a rock-hard finish with no amber tint.

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