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We had one in a house we had built, and loved it. I would do it again if we were building, and especially if it were next to hardwood. At the time it was the early 90's and we had a Whirlpool side-by-side large capacity standard machines.
We have a GE frontloader that has leaked for at least 6 years. A small trickle out the front door. At our old house, the washer was in the basement on a concrete floor with a drain right in front. It was no biggie that the washer trickled. When we moved 5 years ago, the laundry room is on the main level with linoleum and plywood underneath. I didn't want to ruin the floor, so we bought a drain pan before we even moved in.
We bought this one: Driptite Unbreakable Washer pan and it has been awesome! Totally protects the floor and really is unbreakable unlike what we saw at big box stores. I highly recommend them. Here is a picture of our laundry room right this minute from a baby monitor camera, keeping an eye on the dogs!
You can see the pan in front of the washer. It sticks out a little, which would help with draining we never have to drain - the small amount that trickles just evaporates and cleaning. The original cheap pan and weak substrate had a lot of deflection and the pan had a large crack. The plumbers coming next week, Gonna add some localized ball valves, and add a supply line for the dryer We have an LG front load washer that has sprung 4 leaks in less than 4 years.
First it was a water line coming from the cold water inlet valve, then the bellows hose, then the cold water inlet valve, and now the hot water inlet valve. The washer and drier are in a tight area in our laundry room, and the leaks have all been towards the rear of the washer. This makes them difficult to notice, as the water has been pooling up under the rear of the washer against the baseboard.
My wife noticed water squishing out from under one of the 12 x 12 ceramic tiles in front of the washer a few days ago. I went under the house and found a water-logged OSB subfloor that is crumbling.
Now I get to pull up the tile, hardyboard, and subfloor. I bought a drain pan from Home Depot that I'll have to install once the new floor goes down. My question is, is there a trick to getting a drain pan under the washer without breaking it, or should I set the washer down in it, then slide it in place?
That may be an option, depending on the price. We plan on selling the house in the next couple of years, so we've decided not to make any further "upgrades" to it. I have to replace the subfloor and a lot of cracking tiles. As part of a home renovation, I moved my laundry from the 1st floor on a slab to the 2nd floor and installed new LG washer and dryer on pedestals.
My contractor told me that I'm required by code to have a smitty pan aka drain pan under the washer, so we placed one there. After the installers left, I realized that I cannot open the pedestal drawer under the washer; it is blocked by the lip of the drain pan. Also, the washer rocks and vibrates even more than my previous LG washer. The installation instructions suggest that a drain pan can increase vibration. I've not been able to validate that the drip pan is required by code.
I've asked my GC to check on the city code. I'm tempted to have the pan removed after code inspection. We need a class action law suit against these leaking lg washers its crazy that sooooo many leak I am ready to just sell mine and get one that does not have a drain in the front very disappointed at lg.
I have no comment on the drain pan but I 2nd the battery operated water sensor. I would not be without one after an expensive dishwasher leak. Have one under every appliance with water including the water heater. I think it's a ridiculous rule to begin with. Should be an option not a rule. The delivery guy said he could not install and setup because there was no drip pan. So I decided to do it myself.
I went to Home Depot and got a 27" square plastic pan. Now comes the hard part. How do you get it underneath the unit? There is no way I could lift it. Bottom line, I skipped it. And prayed that I never get a leak.
Otherwise a beautiful unit. Sign In. Join as a Pro. Send a Houzz Gift Card! Outdoor Rugs. Spring Front Door Decor. Outdoor Lounge Furniture. Alfresco Dining Sale. Laundry Room. Thanks for any input on having one versus not. Email Save Comment Featured Answer. By Any Design Ltd. Like 7 Save.
Sort by: Oldest. Newest Oldest. Like 1 Save. It's a relatively flat pan with low edges--probably standard? The washer is a new Maytag Bravos. Related Discussions Anyone know of a washer and dryer, either combo or solo units designed for counter height? I have had 2 sets, one in our prior home, in an undercounter arrangement in the kitchen and one currently in our bathroom. Good reliability. I contemplated getting an all one but didn't for two reasons.
You have to wait for the drying to finish before starting a wash load whereas with separate your next load could be starting while one finishing drying. I also thought an all in one might be more expensive to fix because it is a specialty appliance. In the past I did have a standalone dryer with a regular plug. Even light garments took a long time. See disclosure policy for details.
She just got a really pretty front load washer and dryer set. That idea was me making her some for a small fraction of the price in the store haha.
Lucky for me and for you guys, too! Now, there are several DIY washer and dryer pedestal designs floating around on Pinterest, but these are a little different. For these, I made two separate stands instead of one big stand, and I added drawers instead of leaving it open. This mimics the original stand design that goes with the washer and dryers.
Also, my mom has a window above her washer, so she needed something not quite so tall. These fit perfect!
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