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titebond-hide-glue-guitar-notebook Post Aug 30, 14 T Unlike Hide glue, it is ready to use straight from the bottle. Titebond hide glue guitar notebook Aug 30, 17 T The contrast between this newly chipped surface and the smooth original surface of the glass is how lettering and decoration in that medium used to be achieved! Sometimes there is nide much anti-oxidant that it penetrates the wood. Enough to bring joints tightly together generally, psi for softwoods, psi for medium woods and psi for hardwoods.

I would generally recommend that you avoid bottled, premixed hide glue. Titebond has never failed you, so why switch now? One of the most useful properties of HHG is that it shrinks as it cures. The shrinking of the glue can be used to pull a small crack together or pull a ill fitting joint together. Cleanup can also be a good reason to use HHG. Traces of PVA can effect dye from penetrating wood and any traces of excess glue will show up on a hand rubbed vignette. I have never heard of HHG crumbling and deteriorating with age.

We have many examples of HHG lasting for centuries. Fish glue is similar to liquid hide glue. They are both animal based glues Titebond Liquid Hide Glue Guitar Repair Engine that form a bond with collagen. Collagen is what mother nature uses to hold us all together.

Would be interested in what you use for your guitars Matt? Join Date Sep Posts As someone who does repair as well as building, I think we all should think a little more about the ease of repairs down the road. No instrument will last forever, and certainly not without some repairs or modifications along the way. Hide glue lasts plenty long enough, and it's relatively easy to work with. I HHG for crack repairs, for braces, etc. I build classical guitars, so only FP finishes. I don't have any issues with titebond, and I do use it with things that need lots of open time.

I've begun using fish glue too over the past year. I like it so far. It's similar to HHG, but with a much longer open time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. Originally Posted by deacon Mark. Actually, I asked a friend of mine, who recently put a new nut and neck set on my '36 Kalamazoo Tenor Guitar, about these older guitars having such a warmer, different sound than the newer ones, he replied about the woods as we all know , aging so gracefully, but he also mentioned something I never thought about.

Hide glue has the ability to move with the vibration of the wood, the newer glues on the market, basically turn to stone. While securing braces and the rest of the instrument, the modern glue also separates these components; hide glue connects them.

How about that Originally Posted by Ol' Fret. There's no constructive or any other intrinsic reason at all that instruments of the violin family need more frequently, or to more extent, to be taken apart when doing repairs, compared to plucked instruments. Originally Posted by Sam Sherry.

With all respect, sure there is. Flat-tops and classicals can be repaired through the big circular hole chopped in the middle of the top. Violins can't. Most archtop guitars have wide enough f-holes to do a lot of repair.

Violins don't. Bill Barker said over 30 years ago when the trend was trying to make or equate carved top guitars with violins. Big mistake violins have sound post made on a completely different principle. Archtop guitars are designed to have sound bounce off the back.

Also I remember Jimmy Foster an I were talking about removing necks for resetting and Titebond Liquid Hide Glue Guitar Repair Jack he said my necks are designed to not really ever come off, but if I ever need to take one off I will saw it off. Join Date Feb Posts Very educational post. I don't have the experience you folks had but recently came across a Gibson engineer talking about Hide Glue, custom tops.

I don't really have a dog in this fight, but a couple of things to throw into the mix chum the waters? Titebond Step. Woodworking Glues The most comprehensive wood glue program available. Printable View Back to glues. Bottle 4. Back To Product Details. Find Woodworking Glues. Get Literature.

Cleanup: Damp cloth while glue is wet. Scrape off and sand dried excess. I have to agree totally with Alan here. Often people that think they hear a difference is actual a inference. I am often asked if I use HHG. The guitars sound great , isn't that all that matters? I will agree that I do like the ability of this glue to adhere to itself. For now I think it is too hard to tell scientifically what the tonal effects are.

Those of us that build all have an opinion. To me the joinery is more important than what is holding it together. Like Alan said, it's all opinion. For what it's worth I just plain enjoy working with HHG. For the past years I've also been using HHG for constructing new guitars and prefer it in every way to the other glues except for the convenience factor although I couldn't even begin to tell you if there's some difference in the tone of the guitars.

At the film thicknesses we're talking about I'm not convinced it really matters much anyway. Use what you like and buy whatever guitar sounds good to you. Cheers, David www. A related question; I just followed a "Build-thead" on another forum, where a luthier had thee students building their own guitars. Titebond for the bridge. This was in Sweden and the white glue in question was local to this market, but I am quite sure it is something similar to Elmers glue.

My feeling is that this type Titebond Liquid Hide Glue Guitar Repair Data o glue is less brittle when settled. Any comments on this from the forums luthiers would be appreciated.

The question I have is relative to the ease of repair. Other than the need for glue pots, does hide glue offer any advantage or disadvantages for repairs?

One slight disadvantage with hot hide glue is that the parts being glued need to be warmed first. Martin, back in the day, would put the bridges and fret boards on top of the old steam heat radiators before gluing. This extends clamp time and makes for a better joint.

I don't use a glue pot as I'm not building anymore and all of my early building was with titebond. I make up a batch and store it in the fridge and spoon out what I need for the job. It's dated and if more than weeks old I make a new batch. All neck re-sets, bridge re-glues, fret board re-glues, and most crack work get hot hide glue White glue, poly-vinyl acetate iirc, is equivalent to bubble gum: it doesn't hold well, but you can't get it loose either.

It 'cold creeps' almost without limit when subjected to shear loads. I once repaired a fiddle that had the bass bar put in with PVA glue. The top was flat on the bassbar side, with no arch at all, but the bar itself was still glued down at both ends. I had a heck of a time getting some arch back into that poor thing.

I have also seen guitar tops that showed a line of unfinished top wood behind the bridge, and a ridge of finish in front, owing to the bridge creeping toward the neck under the string tension. Titebond and it's ilk also cold creep to some degree, but not nearly as much as white glue. I've noticed that since I started gluing braces down with HHG the tops on my guitars are more stable.

They don't belly as much behind the bridge, or dish in front as much. I suspect that HHG does have a lower damping factor than Titebond or white glue, and surmise that this is related to the cold creep issue.

Suspicion is one thing, and data is another, of course. Buck49 wrote: My feeling is that this type o glue is less brittle when settled.

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