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table-saw-with-router-attachment-join Using the router table with the table saw's fence, I can center a hole over the 1/4" router bit, start the router, push the workpiece through to the end hole and then shut down the router. Cutting the slots in the sub fence using the table saw's fence to guide the workpiece. To keep all my holes in a straight line parallel with the edges of the workpieces, I set up a simple straight edge board with a couple of c-clamps on my drill press to use as a fence.  I assembled the router table fence using the flat area on the left wing of my table saw to keep everything straight. I clamped the base near the edge of the wing with c-clamps and after adding a small bit of wood glue to the rabbet every inch or so, I used a couple of bar clamps to hold the fence to the base. I placed the table saw on the bottom right corner of the MDF and marked off with a pencil where to cut out a square for the little table the Saw will actually sit on. That square ended up being /2" wide by /4" long. I cut out the square with a circular saw and built a very simple table based off those dimensions. (Make sure to keep the rest of the MDF, that will be used for the extension table).  I used a jig saw to notch out one of the 2x4 supports and a router on the underside of the MDF to make a groove for the fence rail. I explain this in further detail in the YouTube video. In the picture below, you can see the notch in the 2x4 and the groove in the MDF.  Join the maker movement! Sign up with your email address to receive tutorials and updates. First Name. Set table saw at 5 degrees and cut full length of rail until top is flush with upper part of leg. The finished joint is shown below. Video Instruction Part 3. Joining the Longitudinal Rails to the Framework Ends. The front and rear intermediate rails are face joints, and Dowelmax has to be reconfigured to the second configuration (see video) in order to complete face bores. Step 6: Attachment of the Caster Support Rails and Casters.  The castors are then aligned and screwed to these horizontal supports. Step 7: Attachment the Router Table Top. The upper finished measurements of the stand are /8 inches x /2 inches. I then secured a top plate (MDF) to the stand. The router top is then secured to the stand top plate using wood screws. Step 8: Locking the Table in a Stationary Position.

However, my table saw has an extension that was not really doing anything other than allowing me to cut large stock. Luckily because I didn't measure it in advancethe router table I bought was a good size match, and so I built a frame to house it, discarded the legs tablw came with the table, and popped it in place.

It works like a charm - it made it really easy to make a malletfor example. For instructions on how to make the whole thing yourself tablee. Actually, if you haven't seen his site before, do yourself a favor and have a look around - loads of fantastic stuff there.

If you got this far, doubtless you already own a table saw. For this project, you need a full size one with an extension - mine is the Ridgid Rwhich is probably the most affordable one of this type out there.

You will also table saw with router attachment join a mini router table, of the type intended to be mounted on a workbench.

The one I bought came with a fixed base router and all the fittings. Beyond the table saw, I used a cordless drill, a hand saw, a jigsaw, measuring tape, square, wood glue, 1. The wood was all offcuts from spruce construction lumber from my woodpile. Measure the size of the hole in the table extension and the size of the table. That meant Table saw with router attachment join needed to waw the table by 41 mm at each end, but didn't need to do anything on the sides except provide support.

I glued and screwed the table saw with router attachment join together, put it in place and realized I needed to cut a rebate for the switch and slots on each end for the sliding miter gauge.

I did the former with a jigsaw and the latter with the table saw, then fixed the frame in place using flat-head screws in the holes that were already there. Drill holes and drive screws through the frame into the underside of the table to fix it in place I used 6and mount your router.

The way this is set up I can either use the fence that came with the router or the fence table saw with router attachment join the table table saw with router attachment join if I need to rout a larger workpiece.

The whole setup works very nicely koin it was just a quick routre. Reply 5 months ago. Reply 1 year ago. Sounds simple enough so maybe there's an intructables or a video? Why didn't you do this? Yup - love the portability of those saws. I managed to snag one of the last cast topped tables before the switched them to the new material can't recall what they make the table tops out of now. Just one little tidbit to add - you will want to add some sort of angled brace from Table Saw With Router Attachment Listener the outer edge of the router table insert to the table saw base to prevent any strain on the TS rails over time.

Doesn't have to be anything fancy - just to take the load off the rails. Handiest upgrade you can make to any table saw - and rouetr router table will actually get used more! Reply 6 years ago on Introduction.

This one has a routef iron center with pressed steel wings. It's still heavy, but not compared to a cabinet saw. I thought about bracing it, table saw with router attachment join the router is not all that heavy and the rails are very solid.

The brace may also make it a little tricky to store I tuck the saw under the my workbench when not in use. May have to reconsider if I detect any signs of strain. Reply sith years ago on Introduction. Am in the process of building my router table add on. Great idea buying a compact table and retro fitting it to your saw. I just purchased this saw. The center section is still cast iron. They no longer make either wing out of cast iron.

And am in the process of building my router table. What a cool idea buying a compact table and retro fitting it into the table. I agree with your support idea. I think this idea is great but I would be concerned jiin stressing the rails. I route heavy hard wood stock sometimes which requires heavy pressure against the fence to get atttachment nice clean cut and I would be afraid of bending the rails and bringing my table saw out of square or worse.

Just completed this on my tablesaw. Instead of cutting out a dado for the switch, I removed it from the table and relocated it to the front edge of the support frame.

Great instrucable, and your measurements were bang on! I built a shaper table for my portable Rigid table saw Yes, I have the very first year they made the saw about years ago and still use it. Mine is not nearly as well put together as yours, but I built the top surface from Table saw with router attachment join, so I can also remove it and use it as a circle jig.

I'm suddenly feeling inspired to make a new one. If so, I'll post pics. Get back to Canadian Tire or Harbor Freight tools and buy an inexpensive foot controller for the router.

I use mine like a dead man switch, so that I can turn the machine on and off without leaning down or looking away from the project. Good idea The nice thing about this unit is they power off and on using the same switch. Only if the sum of the amps required on each tool is less than the rating on the switch. Since each tool is unique, you'll have to check it out. I've been putting off doing the same for my shop for a while now, and just this past week I had an Eureka moment.

Two birds, one stone. One less structure taking up space around my saw. Actually two less. Still, you're spot on with your thinking. Routers and saws take up lots of room in your shop, and this brings your workpiece out into the center of the room where you have the most ability to move about. Good idea. One good reason to put the router table in Table Saw With Router Attachment List between the fence rails os so you can use the table saw fence with your router table.

That is how I use mine. By makendo Instagram makend0 Follow. More by the author:. About: Analog maker dabbling in digital manufacture More About makendo ». Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Jimbob 5 months ago. Reply Upvote. Thank you, well done plans with pictures. I will do the same to mine. I just table saw with router attachment join to add a router to my table, not a router table to my table.

How do I do that? Drill a hole in your table and attach the router below using screws through the attachmen. AnimattersInc 6 years ago on Introduction. ModlrMike 6 years ago on Introduction. I'm really glad to hear it was useful. Good idea with table saw with router attachment join relocation of the switch. I've done this too- mine worked out so that I Table Saw With Router Attachment Windows could use the table saw fence with the router too.

Yep, that works with this one, tabpe - you just have to disconnect the router fence. My only suggestion what looks like a great application. Goatherd1 6 years ago on Introduction.

Aug 15,  · Adding a router-table extension to your contractor-style tablesaw is fairly easy to accomplish—simply remove the metal extension that’s there now, and then build and bolt this one into place. Important note: This table was built for a specific 10" saw model, so the dimensions and connections may vary somewhat for your saw/5. To cut a groove you have to plunge the bit into the workpiece, move the router a distance, and then remove the router bit from the cut. Routed groove lengths can be inconsistent. Biscuit joiners cut groove lengths right-on every time. Grooves cut using a router setup do not match the shape of a biscuit as well as grooves cut using a biscuit joiner. The H Extension Wing with Router Mount features an 18" x 27" precision-ground cast-iron surface, universal router mounting and easy installation. The included fence-rail-mounted support legs means a stable working platform. Fits G series, G series, G/G, and G/G table saws (some minor modifications may be required). Will also fit G/G, G, and GP.

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