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router-table-circle-jig-mode Several of them router table circle jig mode rely on a series of holes to control the size, which can be a problem if you need a very precisely sized circle that happens to be in between the sizes of two of the holes. Good to see it's a common solution :. One disk needs to have the slot in the middle so for that disk we will take the wood where we just router table circle jig mode the slot in. Once you tighten the nut to hold the desired size of the circle, it seems like you will be tightening the fixture to the work piece making it hard to go around.? Adjust the nut on the post so that it sticks out slightly less than the material is thick. Drill holes for the mounting screws, making them just a little bigger than the diameter of your screws. When you tighten the t-handle you are only tightening the post into position.

Note: Some of the jig dimensions may require adjustments to fit your machine. Nip the corners off the bottom block for smaller circles. After hanging the final sheet of drywall in my last shop, my drywall square found a higher calling. Attached to a router base, the 48" aluminum bar now serves as the trammel arm for my circle-and oval-cutting jigs.

I made the pivots in similar fashion, allowing them to share the same router base. The two-block pivot shown opposite page routs circles without drilling pivot holes in the workpiece. Instead, I adhered the bottom piece to the workpiece with double-faced tape. To set the radius gauge, etch the acrylic to match your bit and attach it to the pivot as shown at left.

Attach the arm to the base, make a test cut at a known length, and then trim the bar so that the numbers match the cut. The oval-cutting jig is a larger variation of the circle-cutting jig. Unlike related jigs that require fussy router-cut dovetailed grooves, this simpler stacked version can be easily made with your table saw. Cut the base to size. Use the guide strips as spacers during assembly of the quadrant pieces to ensure a snug sliding fit and screw the parts in place.

Trim off the corners, or trim the entire Router Table Circle Jig 700 jig to make smaller ovals. Like the two-block pivot, tape the oval-cutting pivot to the workpiece. Secure the trammel arm with two bolts through same-size holes in the arm. Position the router so that the bit touches the minor axis. Then mark a hole for your pivot bolt. The minor axis guide strip is perpendicular to the arm. Straightedge and T-Square guides rank as two of the simplest jigs going; offering great versatility when paired with a router.

Both work well for rabbets, dadoes and grooves. You can also use them for neatly trimming the ends of plywood panels or wide glued-ups too large to cut on a tablesaw. Working in tandem, these guides can help you make measure-free dadoes see photo, above. Make the straightedge portion of your jig from a straight board about 6 inches longer than the material you expect to rout. Attach the strip to the straightedge with double-faced tape.

Squeeze the shelf material between the sacrificial guides Inset to set the dado width. Factor in the guide thickness when setting bit depth.

Make the jig as shown about a foot longer than you might typically need; three dowel pins provide better alignment than two. Rip the blank in half then attach the guides with double-faced tape. To set the jig, position the panel between the dowels photo at left , align the sacrificial guide with the shoulder line, and clamp it together.

Rout the top face of the workpiece, and then flip the assembly and workpiece to finish the opposite face. Test the fit of the tongue before removing the jig. Outfitted with two 48"-long miter channels enables it to work with track-saw-style clamps so that you can setup your workpiece as needed, and then do your ripping and jointing on a pair of sawhorses or at your bench.

Rabbet the jointer-edge so that the aluminum angle rests flush with the surface. Make the ripping guide strip wider than the blade-to-base dimension of your circular saw so that the first cut sets the cut line. Screw the guide strip to the assembly so that you can replace it if you change saw blades. To put the jig in jointer mode, simply flip it over and position the stock so that the edge hangs over the aluminum angle.

Carbide should be used on materials that would quickly dull high-speed knives, such as melamine, MDF, and plywood. This table-mounted router jig, Figure 5, offers a safe way to joint boards that might be too short to safely machine on a standard jointer. Two-cut settings make this jig different. To set up the jig, clamp one end to your router table. Use a straightedge to position the fence so the outfeed fence is tangent to the circumference of the bit, then clamp the remaining free end.

Removing the subbase transforms the jig into an offset base. Apply a little weight on the handled end to keep the router from tipping. With the subbase attached, the router works like a steroid-powered shaver. I use it for trimming plugs, inlays, bandings, even solid-wood edging. Unlike some of the other jigs, this one is router specific. I used phenolic faced plywood to make the baseplates that attach to both router and UHMW for the subbase smaller trim, but wound up sawing up a plastic cutting board I bought at the mall to make the subbase for the full-sized router.

Set the bit a hair above the surface, rout, and then finish up with a sanding block or card scraper. Remove the subbase for edge work. The first step to using it is setting the post height. Measure the thickness of the material you'll be cutting a circle in. Adjust the nut on the post so that it sticks out slightly less than the material is thick. Mark the center of the planned circle, and drill a hole that the threaded rod post will fit in snugly.

Set the post at the desired distance from the router bit, and tighten the handle on top to lock it in place. If you are cutting all the way through your material, make sure to hang the portion being cut off the table, and keep rotating the material periodically during the cut to keep from cutting the table. You could also put a sacrificial piece of scrap underneath the material instead. It's generally safer and easier to cut outer edges of circles in a counter-clockwise direction, and inside edges clockwise.

If you don't want a small hole in the cener of whatever you're cutting, you can use a sacrificial piece on top. Drill a hole in a piece of scrap, and use doublesided tape to secure it to the workpiece with the hole at the center of where you want to cut the circle.

Then just increase the depth of cut by the thickness of the sacrificial piece, and cut as usual. Alternatively, if a hole would be acceptable on the underside, but not on top, you can drill the hole only part way through the material, and cut from the bottom.

Have fun, and be safe! I have the same fixed-base Porter Cable router and made a circle-routing jig for it. What I'm trying to sort out is how to start the cuttingdo you have to loosen the router height adjustment while it's running and rotate it down to the depth you want and re-tighten?

I probably should just use my plunge router, I guess! Reply 7 months ago. Reply 2 years ago. Don't ever loosen or attempt to adjust the depth while it's plugged in, let alone running. A plunge router is safer, but it can be done easily without one. Set the depth with the router un-plugged, plug it in, turn it on while holding it securely it will jump a bit when you turn it on , then slowly lower the bit into the workpiece while keeping the side of the baseplate against the fence.

Tip 2 years ago. One very important thing to remember is to take into account the thickness of the cutter bit you are using, and compensate for half of that in your finished circle diameter.

This is great! I came up with a really similar jig on my own. Good to see it's a common solution :. Once you tighten the nut to hold the desired size of the circle, it seems like you will be tightening the fixture to the work piece making it hard to go around.? Reply 5 years ago. What none of the pictures show is the post that sticks down from the jig under the t-handle. When you tighten the t-handle you are only tightening the post into position. The post then will drop into the hole you drill in the center of your workpiece and allow the jig to freely rotate deg around it.

Nice looking jig. Having a good jig is the secret to most of my successful projects. I use this circle cutting technique frequently, but I just take a long strip of fiberboard and set it up for a fixed radius. I just posted my Cardboard Ball Chair www. If I cut a lot of circles of various sizes I'd certainly make a jig like this. The all-thread allowed for very precise adjustments and long radii. I used this to make concentric rounded grooves in an old wood door. The resulting pattern made the door from a very junky piece to something that looked like art.

I love using radius techniques whenever possible. You can do a lot with them. By tashiandmo Follow. More by the author:. I would think that most of not all of these materials could be found in most workshops. The cost to purchase these items would only be a few dollars. It does of course assume that you have a router to use the jig with.

Make a mark on the center line one inch away from the outer edge of the baseplate. My baseplate was round, but many will have a flat edge. Did you make this project? Share it with us! I Made It! Incredible Wooden Spirals by rschoenm in Woodworking. Telescope Setting Circles by instgct in Science.

MarkG 2 years ago. Reply Upvote. Great job on the jig. LeonardP 5 years ago on Step 8. YumanBeing LeonardP Reply 5 years ago.

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