Router Mortise And Tenon Jig Nat,Kitchen Devils Control Carving Knife,Best Rap Captions For Pictures Quote - PDF 2021
The first thing to do is work on the platform by cutting all the pieces to rough length. Cut them oversize for now, they will be trimmed to final length after glue-up. You should have 2 pieces at rough length and width for the platform. The next piece on the other hand needs to be very precise….
This is the spacer that will determine the opening in the jig. This piece needs to be the exact width of the guide bushing you plan on using so there is no slop in the jig. To get this piece to be the exact width of the guide bushing you are using, use some calipers! Then bring that measurement over to the table saw and set your fence. Easy enough! Before cutting the actual piece, do some test cuts on scrap wood to dial in the perfect thickness.
Once you have that dialed in, you can rip the actual piece and then cut it in half to create two spacer pieces. Temporarily clamp all the pieces together and test fit the guide bushing one last time to make sure there is a tight fit before glueing anything together.
Another thing to do before glue up is to score a center line in one inside edge. This is just easier to do now before it is all glued together. Use a marking knife, then fill it in with pencil or pen so you can see it very clearly.
This center line will be useful when actually using the jig. You can also mark a center line on that scrap spacer and line it up with the center line you scribed on the inside edge of the platform piece to make sure everything is glued up where it should be.
While the glue is drying on the top platform you can start to work on the fence piece. Trim it to rough length and width at this point in anticipation of tear out from the router bits.
All the clamps and fixtures are going to attach to the jig using special hardware that has a dovetail shape on them. To avoid tear out though, there is an optimal order of operations. This is the best way to avoid tear out in the middle of your board. Now that the slots are routed, you can cut it to final length and width by taking off the same amount of material from either side.
The platform gets those same dovetail slots, one on each end of the board. There will be tear-out on those cuts! So use some calipers to make sure all the edges are parallel.
Add a center line along the bottom of the platform using the center line you already scribed on the inside edge before glue up as a reference. Fill in the scribe line with some pencil so you can see it more easily.
A center line also needs to be scribed along the length of the bottom of the platform. This can be done with a wheel marking gauge, and you know it will be perfectly centered if you reference both edges. Drill and countersink holes on both edges of the platform for the screws that will hold the width stoppers. Use the actual dovetail slots you routed under the platform as a guide for where to drill though holes on the edge of the fence.
These holes need to line up with those slots since that is how you will be mounting the fence to the platform. Drill out the through hole from both edges so that they meet in the middle. And repeat, you should have two of these to attach the fence to the platform.
This step is optional, but it is a cool way to mount the jig for hard to clamp situations. You will then have to make a separate board that has two corresponding slots in it for clamping. Slide a square piece of scrap against the flutes of the router bit. Transfer both edges of the bit onto the fence. The left line is your start line. The right line is your stop line.
Lock the fence in place-from here out it must not move. The skin reduces the depth of cut for the first pass so you need not adjust the router. Align the line for Router Mortise And Tenon Jig 30 the left end of the mortise with the start line.
Plunge the workpiece onto the spinning router bit while also maintaining pressure against the fence. Move the workpiece forward until the right mortise mark aligns with the stop line. Shut off the router, wait for the bit to stop spinning, and then lift the workpiece off the table.
Remove the temporary plywood spacer and repeat the process. Lay out a tenon on the end of a test rail the same thickness as your project pieces. Set the straight bit so the top of its cutting edges align with the bottom of the tenon layout line. Back the test piece with a scrap and make a pass on each face to produce the tenon.
Check the fit. If the tenon is too thick, raise the bit slightly. Remember, because you cut both faces, raise the bit by half the amount you need to remove. Premium Sign up for premium membership and get access to our best woodworking videos and projects. Learn new woodworking techniques and tips from friendly master woodworkers. Gold Upgrade to GOLD membership and get unlimited access to our entire library of premium woodworking videos, receive discounts on DVDs, video downloads, and classes in the shop.
Description George Vondriska teaches you how to use your handheld plunge router or router table to cut perfect mortise and tenon joinery for your woodworking projects.
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