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maloof-oil-effect отметок «Нравится», 15 комментариев — Garawood woodworking how to (@garawood) в Instagram: «Oiling some chairs - A second coat of Maloof oil on this. Maloof's Poly/Oil Finish is a custom blend of polyurethane varnish and natural oils developed by Sam Maloof to beautifully finish his finest pieces. Ideal for use on furniture, cabinets and millwork. Enlivens wood grain and adds warmth to its color. Gives your project the look of a hand-rubbed satin finish in half the time it takes using pumice and rottenstone. Consider using Sam Maloof's Oil/Wax for the final coat to complete the look. Этот эффект подтверждает исследование эффектов различных источников Омега-3, рыбьего жира, масла криля и мидии с зелеными губами против цитокин-опосредованной деградации собачьего хряща4. Одной из важных особенностей БАД с Омега-3 являются рекомендации по курсовому приему препарата. Фактически, пить Омегу можно круглый год, без перерыва. С чем ее лучше всего сочетать, чтобы получить максимальный эффект? Омега-3 и её лучшие друзья.

Woodworking Stack Exchange is a question and answer site for professional and amateur woodworkers. It only takes a minute to sign up. Connect and share knowledge within a single location that is structured maloof oil effect easy to search. I'm working on a live edge walnut slab coffee table. I finished the bottom using Emmet's Maloof oil effect Stuffwhich is a gel polyurethane oil based varnish. I applied a few coats, scuff sanded, and then used steel wool maloof oil effect apply some wax.

I used some cotton rags to polish the wax by hand:. That stated I'd like something that pops the grain a bit more on the top side. The Good Stuff contains "synthetic oils" whatever that means that do penetrate the wood nicely, but it doesn't have quite the pop I'm maloof oil effect for.

Additionally the color of the wood doesn't malolf match, the look I was hoping for seen in examples like:. Example 1.

Example 2. I've been maloof oil effect a ton about finishing and was hoping to get some feedback on the malloof finishing schedule for this piece:. Any feedback on the above steps, combination thereof, and the proposed reasoning behind them would be helpful.

Perhaps there other other better ways to approach this as well. Makoof few notes: I'm doing this in a garage with fffect access to professional equipment so spraying isn't really an option for me.

After trying several different permutations I finally finished the table. I ended up making a test board of a piece I cut from the slab:.

Maloof oil effect sample board below shows the work, but it's probably impossible to see any differences given the lighting and iphone camera. Suffice it to say there was a notable difference between all options. How much and who noticed is debatable, but if you looked closely there were lots of differences.

All the oil products definitely popped the grain much better than the good stuff. Qualitatively I'd say that BLO darkened the wood especially the sap wood more than the maloof oil effect oil.

Maybe the mineral spirits thinned oi more so that it was able to penetrate deeper? Wet sanding the effecr coat definitely efdect something to the pores.

I've read in a few places that it's debatable whether this technique actually fills the pores since you're malloof away after a few minutes anyway. In any event those sections' pores were much more visible e. The shellac absolutely sanded easier than the good stuff. This was to be expected, but I was shocked at how much smoother of a surface I got from this. They both popped the grain and made it "richer", but in different ways. That way I could tell myself I got the best of both oio :.

I could have just used the maloof finish, but I didn't see much point of using the poly in the maloof finish since I was going to get a poly top coat from the good stuff anyway. Also though the differences were slight I preferred the pure oil to the maloof.

I did use the dewaxed shellac as a sanding sealer, which I was happy with. I got a much smoother surface than I think I would have if I used the good stuff, but who knows -- I'm sure it's possible to get a very smooth surface with the good stuff as well. After that I used 4 coats of good stuff removing excess almost immediately. I scuff sanded between coats. Finally I applied neutral liberon black bison wax maloof oil effect steel wool and polished by hand with rags.

I'm really happy with the finished table. I think it looks and feels great. Compared to another larger effeect I did with just good stuff I think the grain pops a lot more due to the oil. I get a much more "3d" look to the figure. The maloof oil effect appear to have definitely darkened the wood in a way that I like. The wax finish over the good stuff leaves a really nice smooth surface, which Efvect really like.

Obviously the number one driver for the look of the finished table is the wood itself. That malpof I could have probably done anything malooff it would have turned out nicely, but since I chose this route Mqloof say it was the best! Side point: finishing the undersides of tabletops doesn't appear to be as advantageous as most of us oik assumed.

Bob Flexner on the subject, Finish Both Sides? Maoof necessary. I would be confused by this too. The naloof synthetic oils I'm aware of are mineral oils, which as they're non-drying I would presume would not be a desirable additive to any finish intended to dry, particularly not one intended to dry hard or tough.

The idea of this oill is to pop the grain. Note: just want to highlight maloof oil effect for anyone who is not aware that maloof oil effect Danish oil products are usually not oils. Almost all on the market are a simple mixture of oil, varnish and additional spirits, and then sold at an inflated price to consumers. As to popping the grain, oils are great at this so is shellac incidentally, although it won't deepen the tone like you're looking to do.

Whether this will give you maloor noticeably different look to just The Good Stuff going directly on to the wood I can't say as I haven't used the latter.

Ideally you'd want to do some comparisons, but with luck you will get malooof better maloof oil effect with the BLO than with the poly. BLO excels at this. Even if you don't get a significant improvement you've only wasted a little oil pil not much time.

The idea here is to provide a sanding sealer, optionally use a darker shellac maybe amber? Regardless if erfect will, it's still a viable step if you want maloof oil effect do a fast finishing job: you can oil, and maloof oil effect shellac over the top of it without waiting at all for the oil to dry or cure.

Then once the shellac has dried wait about an hour if possible but minutes can do it you can go straight to your first coat of varnish. Using this method you can go from oiling through to 3 coats of varnish in a single day.

But in this case the second application of varnish usually needs to wait until the following day. Since you've sanded with you're in a good position to make your own pore filler if you're interested, by simply blending the sanding dust with BLO boiled linseed maloof oil effect or varnish. Varnish is a better bet as it dries malkof and dries faster, but many traditionalists have used BLO for this and are happy with the performance.

Maybe I can combine the first three steps into one step by wet sanding the oil and using the slurry as kil filler? However, from the photos it looks like your wood could be a very good candidate for this method. If you go maloog with this step be patient when waiting for the pore filler to harden up. Pause for at least a full day, but it can be worth waiting an additional 24 hours or longer. Rubbing down would be to flatten off. If all you're seeking to do however is knock back the sheen you can malooc this in a single step, using fine steel wool or something like ScotchBrite.

This can be done dry or with wax. Give Tru-Oil a try, I really really like it on walnut. Pops the grain better than BLO in my opinion.

However, maloof oil effect a coffee malpof, I would top coat it with polyurethane as the tru-oil doesn't protect against water damage all that well. I too made a test piece for comparison. The top row was applied with rottenwood mixed in which acts as a grain filler while the bottom row ol not. Then a second application of BLO and Tru oil was applied for comparison in the right half of each respective square.

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Create a maloof oil effect Team What is Teams? Learn more. Finishing schedule maloof oil effect live edge walnut slab Ask Question. Asked 5 years, 10 months ago. Active 3 years, 11 maloof oil effect ago. Viewed 38k times. I've been reading a ton about finishing and was hoping to get some feedback on the following finishing schedule for this piece: coats of oil either boiled linseed, tung, or iil like a danish oil.

The idea of this step is to pop the grain more than the good stuff is capable of as well as possibly darken the color of the wood a bit. Pore filler. From what I understand I think I'd want to use an oil based pore filler. I am maloof oil effect the impression that I should sand this stuff off so it just stays in the pores.

Few coats of Good Stuff to provide a nice hard durable finish on top. That way I could tell myself I got the best of both worlds : I could have just used the maloof finish, but I didn't see much point of using the poly in the maloof finish since I was going to get a poly top coat from the good stuff anyway. Improve this question. Iil Doov 1, 3 3 gold badges 11 11 silver badges 23 23 bronze badges. Before we get to finish, were you aware that your construction method may constrain the slab from moving and as sffect result could well lead to cracking or warping of some kind?

I suspect the problem Graphus is referring malood is the wood movement, yes.

Mar 13,  · Sam Maloof Oil/Wax Finish is a blend of oils and waxes used as a final coat over Sam Maloof's Poly/Oil Finish to create a soft, hand-rubbed appearance while enlivening the wood's character. This topcoat is recommended for fine pieces that won't be exposed to /5(83). Aug 31,  · Sam Maloof used 2 different oil finishes. One with wax added and the other without. The first is a 3 part mix. One part % pure tung oil, one part boiled linseed oil and one part oil poly varnish. (don't get the water based poly). Put on coats. I only mix enough to use for each coat. He would then recommend a couple of coats of the same 3. Nov 04,  · In addition, the maloof piece shows scratches and abrasion much more easily than the Arm-R-Seal piece. If this were just a blanket chest for myself, I wouldnt worry about using Maloof. But since this is going to my unborn nephew, I’m guessing its going to get a lot of abuse over the years. It’ll probably be used as a toy chest at some point.

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