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There are quite a few parts of the jointer plane, but we are only going to go over the most important ones, with a few of the less important parts listed only because of their interesting names. Before starting any project , always make sure there is enough room to maneuver around the object you are working on.

Since we are working with a non-powered hand tool, safety equipment like eye protection or gloves is not necessary , but still recommended. Keep in mind that the cutting edge, the iron, is extremely sharp, so take the necessary precautions when moving your fingers around that area.

Any hand plane must be adjusted before Primus Jointer Plane 60 every use. Hard use, incorrect storage, or just simple jostling can change the alignment of the plane. Some vintage or custom made jointer planes may have different David Barron Jointer Plane Of methods of adjustment, but we are following basic plane adjustment ideas here. When starting your planing project, set the initial cutting depth so that it takes off very little material.

Starting out too deep can jam up the plane and cause unwanted marks on the wood surface. After all the proper adjustments to the jointer plane have been made, it is time to start flattening your board. The first step is to stabilize the wood on a solid surface. A workbench is preferred , but any flat table that you are able to use clamps with will work.

A woodworking vise is the preferred option to clamping the piece from the sides so that the entire top surface is free to plane. An important part of using a jointer plane is the motion used to run the tool over the wood board you are flattening.

Two hands are used with the tool, so the natural thought is that you can simply move the tool back and forth or side to side. This could work, but will not be very efficient. Choose an option to add an item to your cart. Check availability at all stores. This image has not been loaded. To Jointer Plane Diagram Linux print the images, close the print view and scroll to the bottom of the article.

Once all of the images have loaded, select the print option again. The Veritas low-angle jointer is the largest member of our bevel-up bench plane family. The body is fully stress-relieved ductile cast iron, with a sole that is flat and square to the sides. An adjustable throat plate allows a wide range of mouth adjustment. Our unique stop-screw retains mouth settings while preventing blade damage when removing and replacing blades.

The bevel-up blade configuration results in a plane that is versatile and straightforward to use. Simply increasing the blade bevel results in higher cutting angles for improved performance in more difficult-grained woods. The Veritas low-angle jointer fence available separately enables you to shoot consistent and accurate square or bevelled edges with your Veritas bevel-up jointer.

Product Added To WishList. QTY: 0. So why all the confusion? In a word, marketing. Stanley identified their line of bench planes by number, 1 through 8. They also named these planes so that users at the time would be familiar with their intended use. Over time, the true meaning of the traditional names of those planes got lost in the marketing hype.

They based these names on the relative length of the plane. In all fairness, the 7 does make a very good try plane and the 8 does make a good jointer plane.

However, the 7 can also make a Jointer Plane Diagram 3d good jointer plane and the 8 can also be a fine try plane. So you can see how confusion abounds. In the book, Nicholson states that the purpose of the try plane is to. So we can discern from Nicholson that the try plane has an iron ground with a convex or cambered edge to prevent the corners of the iron from entering the wood.

We can also tell that it is set for a finer cut than the jack plane, and that it is used after the jack plane for flattening and straightening the stuff. From this description, it sounds like the plane is primarily intended for use on surfaces that are wider than the iron of the plane, i.

So here, Nicholson is specifically calling out working on the narrow edges of the board, especially when the intent is to make an edge to edge glue joint between two boards.

This makes things a little more clear in the distinction between the try plane and jointer. Nicholson does give lengths for both of these planes as well, but as with most measurements of the period, these are generalizations and not rule.

A try plane and jointer plane could potentially be the same length. The true difference in these planes is in their intended use, and therefore in their sharpening and setup. The jointer plane, on the other hand, while resembling the try plane in appearance and length, is actually a joinery plane, not a surfacing plane like the try plane.

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