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john-jordan-lathe-tools-guide Полное иллюстрированное руководство по обрабоке древесины, придания изделиям оригинальныой формы. Эта книга займет достойное место в Вашей коллекции, даже если Вы являетесь опытным стояром или плотником. The first volume in Taunton's three-part "Complete Illustrated Guides" series, this title is intended as a bench-top reference guide showing the many ways of shaping wood (cutting, edge treatments, decorative techniques, turning, and carving). Techniques of all types and complexity are covered, usually including several means to accomplish each task, such as using hand or power tools. See more ideas about lathe tools, wood turning, lathe.  Follow our expert How To, step by step guide and video, to learn how to make mm wooden jaw plates and discover its benefits. Wood Turning Lathe. Wood Turning Projects. Wood Lathe. Diy Lathe. Woodworking School. Learn Woodworking. List of Lathe tools companies and services in Jordan. Search for Lathe tools with Addresses, Phone numbers, Reviews, Ratings and Photos on Jordan Business Directory.  Looking companies by tag Lathe tools in Jordan? Find in our directory the list of companies by tag Lathe tools in Jordan. Hey guys, i have a short bed on my midimost hollowing systems require much longer bed. This include a bent tool where the cutting tip is in line with the shaft - no torque when John Jordan Lathe Tools 40 the straight part of the john jordan lathe tools guide is on the tool rest. The 1. Photo Tool New media New comments. Hollowing with the tools seems like the natural thing to do now, no stress, no strain. The force of guid spinning puts the chips on the insides right where you use the 'bent' tool. Thanks for all of the excelent john jordan lathe tools guide, you all are very helpful!

Bill Boehme Administrator Staff member. Also, his steady rest appears to very good, but I already had the Robust steady rest which is very solidly built. Most of the hollowforms that I have made were less than eight inches deep and were easily done with normal hand hollowing However, the Jamieson system is the best deal for smaller hollowing systems if you want to do slightly deeper hollowing up to a foot deep. I second Al's recommendation of Trent Bosch.

I just watched the Simon Hope hollowing video and was impresse with the value of that system. I haven't seen much on the fourm about it, but it is definitely high on my list. Thanks for the pointer Al. I decided on the Simon Hope articulating system for hollowing.

I had looked at many systems and there are very good ones available. The Hope system is very well made. What I liked about it was you have a hand grip when hollowing. The base can be offset where center post is not directly between the ways.

There is also a short articulating arm I'm hoping will give more mobility. One thing I wanted was a camera system being new to hollowing. Finally I also got the laser in addition to the camera. The laser has a power supply and not dependent on a battery. I will use the laser until I get close and then switch to the camera. Reason is with the laser you are looking at the piece where with the camera you are looking at the screen and I feel with the camera you can get to the final thickness easier as you can see where the cutter is cutting at all times without adjustment.

I have just done one practice piece, but really like the system. Those carbide cutters make short work in removing material. I ordered directly from Simon Hope and I am very satisfied with the transaction. It is a quality product and Simon has provided quick and excellent support to all my questions. On a side note I have been advised to get a 1" bar. Hope does not offer that size. When I was looking at systems I was strongly considering the Monster system.

However when I just went to check out the bar and other options it say the site has not been renewed. Does anyone know if they are still providing products?

Last edited: Jul 26, CA made me 4 cutter holders. The curved cutters are off center line but work fine in both the Jamison and Hope. Cut a 1. Make a flat on the end of a straight and curved piece and tap for a bolt and attach scraper bits. Drill a hole in the ends of the other two and glue in cutters.

I can easily work 12" deep with either and have not done anything deeper than 12" I use them mostly for hollowing forms up to 17" in diameter. Last edited: Jul 29, Fadi Zeidan. Hey guys, i have a short bed on my midi , most hollowing systems require much longer bed.

I am looking into the Elbo with the extension they offer as well as Bosch's stabilizer since it doesn't require additional stand, any recommendation? Regis Galbach.

Camera, tv, and all articulating arm parts. I'm sure that it will fit any lathe, even my The jamieson system works great on short bed lathes. I demo hollowing on short bed lathes fairly often because that is what some clubs own. I use a 2x6 a couple feet long. One John Jordan Lathe Tools Pdf end is bolted to the ways.

The other end has a backrest screwed to it. I think Lyle sells an extension if you don't have a 2x6 The back rest can be quite flimsy and still John Jordan Woodturning Tools 00 work well.

Did a demo a few months back on a jet vs using the Jamison. Simon hope has a nice System. Turner position with this system is similar to that using the Jamison. With both the Jamison and the Hope the turner works between the hollow form and the support mechanism.

I find this the most comfortable position for me. This makes them easy to use on full size lathes with good posture. The Regis Galbach home gown system similar working position. With the Bosch system the turner works behind the support mechanism. This puts the support mechanism between me and the work which I don't care for. Some people think it is more natural, I think it more awkward. This distinction is important.

I know which I like. You need to know which you like. One big advantage of the jamieson is you can make the backrest from wood. A lot lighter to move around and with a little bit of the friction free plastic on the lower rail it is better than metal. What I like about the jamieson, hope and Bosch systems is that they will work with most hollowing bars. Last edited: Sep 8, I emailed both Simon Hope and Lyle about compatibility with short bed.

Haven't heard back. Simon states that you need 20" between the opening of the hollow form and the tip of the cutter. Lyle's seems massive and as you said, I would need to build a stand for it as you said.

I may look into that. Regis Galbach said:. Click to expand Fadi Zeidan said:. I use my Jamieson rig on short bed lathes by mounting the secondary tool rest on a wooden support that is off the lathe.

At first I didn't think it would work but it works just fine. It would probably work better if I attached it to the lathe with a board or something but it's worked well enough that I have never done that. Here is a photo. You have to look close but you can see the secondary tool rest is sitting in a wooden stand that isn't attached to the lathe. Gerald Lawrence. You might want to look at the Elbo system by Tim Yoder.

Complete system is and the extension that allows use on mini lathe is I have the regular and love. He also sells laser attachment but I already had the Ron Brown he sells.

I've seen various hollowing systems used on mini lathes and they all work as far as I can tell. I've made a few hollowforms on my Jet mini lathe using just handheld hollowing tools Scrapers and hook tools which are cutting tools.

David Shombert. I used those a time or two when I first started hollowing. Obviously, they can work; Ellsworth's magnificent vessels are the evidence. They're harder to control than a lot of others because the tip is NOT on the axis of the tool; thus there's a torque that wants to twist the tool and you have to overcome that.

Many other hollowing tools - John Jordan's, for example my favorite , have a curve in the end of the side-cutting tool so that the tip is on the axis of the tool.

Hence no torque. Harder to explain in words but easy to imagine if you look at one of those tools. But you've got the Ellsworth tools and probably don't want to spring for a different set. I found two things helpful when I used them: 1 use a hefty handle that you can get a good grip on, and 2 straddle the bed of the lathe if you can.

Yeah, it's like riding a not-very-comfortable horse. I had a General at the time, and that Canadian cast iron is hard. But in that position - assuming the handle is long enough - you can rest your right hand on your right hip while the left hand guides the tool on the toolset. Hope this helps. Last edited: Apr 9, Fadi Zeidan. The side one is little tricky at first. Start with the tip pointing down and start rotating it up until it touch the side and start cutting.

Beta Tester. With the side tool whenever the bevel makes contact you get a catch. Keep the tip pointing down a tiny bit. This keeps the bevel off the wood. Ditto what Fadi Zeidan said. I still do all my hollow ball ornaments with an Ellsworth style tool. Then I got the Stewart tools with the arm brace. This include a bent tool where the cutting tip is in line with the shaft - no torque when the straight part of the bar is on the tool rest.

I still use the Stewart bars for my scraper bits. I use the Bosch bars for hollowing now. David Shombert said:. Click to expand Thanks all! I'll try some of the things mentioned.

I'll see if I like that one better. I'm currently turning on a new Jet vs which I really love so far. That keeps me from being able to straddle like the image that GrJensen shared but I'll be getting a new large lathe to accompany the Jet in July.

Richard Coers. Where is the hollowing tool contacting the hollow form? I like it on center or just slightly below. Try sharpening it too. There aren't too many roughing cuts for hollowing, especially when done by hand.

Slow the lathe, take lighter cuts. Bill Blasic. Get a hollowing jig, for me a lot easier and more fun. Michael Nathal. I think the headstock rotates on your Jet? That will help you get a more comfortable angle rather than straddling the lathe. Although a 21 inch bed is short enough you might be able to stand at the end anyway.

Tom Gall. I don't highly recommend this Tightly clamp some locking vise grips on the tool shaft behind the tool rest of course. If you align them with the cutting tip parallel you will have a good idea what position your cutter is in, and it will offer some torque arresting as well. Mark Wollschlager. When you are blind hollowing, especially in a small object, it is important to clear the chips often.

The force of the spinning puts the chips on the insides right where you use the 'bent' tool. Part of the "fun" of hollowing like that is stopping every few cuts and scooping or blowing out the chips. As noted, rotate the tip of the cutter down a bit to lighten the cut. Also don't hold the tool handle with a death grip, allow it to rotate with some effort and it will just stop cutting. Light cuts. Beware of the right side of the hollowing opening.

If you touch the right side to much it will lift the tool and smack it on the rest. You will grip harder to regain control and BANG! Also make sure the tool is sharp. Dean Center. Tom brings up how to tell where your tip is aimed when you can't see. While the vise grip idea would be effective and potentially exciting, when I secure the tool in the handle, I put the set screws straight up with the cutting tip 90 degrees counter-clockwise.

When I'm inside, I can tell the angle at the tip by the position of the screws. Glenn Lucas has his students mark the bottom of the bowl gouge flute with a red sharpie, and you could to this on the base of the Ellsworth tool, as a similar alignment tool. Roger Wiegand Beta Tester. When I took his class long ago Ellsworth's suggestion for making handles for the tools was to do an off-center section at the end creating an oval, then orienting the tool in the handle such that when the tip was in the right position the oval portion of the handle would fall into a naturally comfortable position in your hand.

Seems to work quite well having a tactile cue. Using a sharpie to put a stripe at 12 o'clock on the steel rod can also help keep you oriented. I took that class and made those tools many years ago, I've just tried using them seriously for the first time in the last week. I can see this is going to be a whole new adventure!

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