%!$ Easy Diy Woodworking Bench Plans For You #!@

flattening-jointer-plane-sole-setting He says jointer planes start behaving badly at about” out of true. If you have feeler gauges and a flat surface, you can check yours. I don’t think your counter top necessarily qualifies. Find a granite slab or some 1/2” float glass. The other test is empirical. If you can consistently edge plane two boards and have them meet without gaps, you plane is flat enough. That’s why it’s called a jointer. Make sure the iron is flat – except at the corners.  Paul has a tutorial on flattening plane soles. With a big plane, it will take longer. Lots of metal to move. As to the side, it really shouldn’t matter all that much if the side is a bit out of square. It’s the iron being plum that matters. Your plane has an adjuster. It would have to be really bad not to work. Step 6 – Smooth sole. With the the sole now flattened, any scratches left by the rougher paper can be smoothed away by running the plane over the finer, grit paper. Lapping the sole of a wooden plane. It’s usually easier to lap the sole of a wooden plane than a metal one as wooden soles, although usually made of the hardest of hardwoods, yield more readily to abrasive material. Download PDF. This article is from Issue 95 of Woodcraft Magazine. Flattening a plane sole typically involves rubbing it on an abrasive that’s sitting atop a dead-flat surface like a cast iron table saw wing or slab of reference granite. For abrasive, I’ve used wet/dry carborundum paper, but it seems to lose its aggressiveness pretty quickly. Alternatively, I’ve used silicon carbide powder, but that can undesirably abrade my reference surface. I finally realized that combining the two is a better approach. I start off with carborundum paper attached with spray adhesive. Then, as the paper dull.

Forum Rules. This website or its third-party tools process personal data clattening. To learn more, please refer to the cookie policy. In case of sale of your flattening jointer plane sole setting information, you flattening jointer plane sole setting Flattening Jointer Plane Sole Missing opt out by sending us an email via our Contact Us page.

To find out more about the categories of personal information collected and the purposes for which such information will be used, please refer to our privacy policy. You accept the use of joknter or other identifiers by closing or dismissing this notice, by scrolling this page, by clicking a link or button or by continuing to browse otherwise. Login to Your Account. Remember Me? Register Forgot password? What's New? Flatgening 1 of 3 1 2 3 Last Jump to page: Results 1 to 20 of Thread: Restoring planes-flatten the sole.

Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Jointeg planes-flatten the sole Hello, I will like your input on how to restore metal planes. I know about electrolysis. But I hear using a sandpaper to flatten the sole is not the best idea.

Any tips on how to flatten the sole and also let the sole and the side metal parts shine will great. I've seen some impressive restoration of block planes flattening jointer plane sole setting the site, if no one pops in to help ill dig ya up some info. A surface lapping plate is my opinion.

Very difficult to maintain "flatness" by hand lapping or sanding. The flattening jointer plane sole setting act of Jointer Plane Flattening 01 moving the plane against some abrasive causes the plane to rock somewhat and there goes the flat. Lot's of planes don't have flat bottoms Jacks often feature fluted relief. I've known many craftsmen reduce the fore portion ahead of the throat and also the main sole. I have some planes as I have tried to improve. I have checked the flatness of the sole on all my planes all is Stanley.

No one was flat good enough for me. I think the procedure at the factory was such they finished the sole surface flzttening a abrasive band machine. I think so because a abrasive band or clothe will cut more around the throat and in joointer cases, all planes except the 78, has had a low area around the throat.

I have hand scraped the sole and in some cases the sides. Flattening jointer plane sole setting sole is then hand lapped on a cast iron lapping plate. It ends up in flatness within 0.

I like to flattening jointer plane sole setting the sides perpendicular to the sole so it is possible to lay the plane on its side and adjust a board to flattening jointer plane sole setting perpendicular shape.

The sides can look great hand scraped. To machine a sole, in a surface grinder or in a mill, is very hard as th castings are so week it is joibter impossibly to clamp it in the machine without to bend or wrap it. The next is the cutting forces and heat as the wheel or mill creates.

In the best case the sole is flat when it still is clamped in the machine but you will be disappointed when you release it from the table. IMO the only safe way is to hand scrape or lapping by the right method. I would like to adjust a hand plane so the front part of the sole, all sol the area in front of the throat, would be about 0,1 mm lower, still flat and parallel to the aft part looking on the sole with the plane up side down.

It is a project for the future. Scraping is easy, generates no heat, and automatically compensates for any movement from stress relief. And all you need is a small surface plate, a scraper and some flattening jointer plane sole setting. I've known a lot settingg guys who paid to have planes surface ground and were disappointed in the results, especially on longer planes. I don't bother to lap after scraping, I like the scraped surface, it's great bragging point with woodworkers, and probably does what corrugation does.

Thank you, Rob. Originally Posted by better billiards. Thank you, POAx. So how do I do scraping? Any pointers flatteningg be great. Originally Posted f,attening POAx.

To help visualize what people are saying about scraping compared to surface grinding: I tried planing a few Stanley's on a pane, and later tried foattening grinding one. It is a waste of time for all the reasons stated above.

It is possible to have a grinder capable of near "perfect" travels, but the construction of an iron frame plane sole does not lend itself well to easily being ground flat due to distortion even though minisucle in fixturing, flattening jointer plane sole setting to heat effects of grinding.

However, in the construction of my loopies, there comes a point after the sides and sole have had the snot beat out of them to swage the joints when some plnae flattening has to be done. Actually, I first plane a couple sple on the sides of the beat up assemblies square to the soles so the planes soole be gripped true in a vise. Then the sole is rough planed on flattdning shaper for a nearly true surface.

Then the toe piece cut-outs and all the machining is done. Finally, the toepiece, which until now has been well proud of the plane sole, is ground dole flush with the sole, taking a few final. Then the wood parts are fit, final shaping, filing and "almost final" polishing are done.

The plane is wrapped in a couple plastic bags taped off to the sole for scraping. Here is what it looks like, surface ground, albeit with scars flattening jointer plane sole setting the on-going ops up 'til this point.

This plane has been flattening jointer plane sole setting on a surface plate lfattening faint blue, and barely registers: Here is what it looks like with a good slathering of blue on the surface plate: It can be seen from the blue markings how joibter the surface grinder distorts small parts such as the steel toepiece compared to the ductile iron around it flattening jointer plane sole setting differentials.

Also the typical hollow in a thin part due to heat gain in the center. Keep in mind the iron must be installed, tensioned as in use, and retracted just to clear scraping around the throat. The iron is in this one. Notice the density of blue spots right along the front of the mouth.

This is the most critical area. Here they are fainter and smaller yet. As long as there is good density along the front of the throat, the rest can fade out slightly toward heel and toe. I try to keep them fairly joinyer, with only a slight bias. A short bench plane will wear more at both ends, but it is essential that to start, the "most" bearing be right in front of the cutting edge. The sole should never be concave. No other process allows the degree of control and assurance that scraping does.

Lapping on sandpaper dubs the edges, rounds the sole, and seldom provides perfect bearing at the throat tends to dub the throat. Lapping on a charged cast iron plate no loose abrasive could provide an equally flat sole, but does not permit the control and bias that the best scraping job can impart to flattening jointer plane sole setting plane sole.

Finally, scraping is just a lot faster than the other processes. Albeit quite messy. Joe Rogers slle, rustytoolPetersontoolsgwilson liked this post. I like Stephen Thomas method and agree about all. In my case I have also seen that the seat for the blade does not fit good in the "main body". I have adjusted the seat, flattenung the points it is fasten to the body, by scraping.

If you have scraped this mating surfaces so they blue marks each other evenly, it will be pllane impact on the sole flatness when the fasten screws are tightened. The next IMO, is to scrape the blade seat surface, with your blade as reference or if you have your blade lapped flat you can scrape the seat flat. This two actions would be performed before your scraping procedure of the sole. Pland you can check when you are in flaftening end of scraping procedure if there skle any visible impact on the sole flatness, depending on tensioned blade or not tensioned flattening jointer plane sole setting. In my case I have not seen such impact.

Regards P-O. Joe Plwnestephen thomas liked this post. From what I've read, smoothing planes are the one's truly needing flat soles; the one's that do not need that degree of flattening are the jacks, fores and jointers; of course, I've had colleagues tell me otherwise--if it's a new smoother, and a quality tool, I wouldn't flattening jointer plane sole setting much sole fettling would be needed.

And older smoother, may well be another story, and is, in many cases. I've read and seen a ojinter of options for flattening plane soles, settinf the scraping method I've not considered, and what a great method, even if it's incredibly time settinh. Surface grinding an older smoother is outside of my shop's capabilities, and even if I could do such a thing, I doubt I'd do it. And even the methods I "can" do, like an abrasive on a surface plate, for example, offers too many variables for error, including twisting, which joinnter can occur even when we're careful doing it I look at it this way For sdtting, attempting to achieve "perfect" flatness is nigh unto impossible, at least in my shop--if my straightedge offers a picture of "good" flatness, than I just polish some I still really like the scraping idea, though!

I know your heart is in the right place, but I'm going to pick on you anyway. Trboatworks liked flattening jointer plane sole setting post. The entire base need not be on one plane such as the "hand flaked" photos would depict. The foremost contact point across the sole width, a similar band in front of the throat, and like band or bands at the rear.

Nov 05,  · Use belt sanding belts cut and glued to plate glass to flatten the sole and sides of the plane. That should give you a continuous piece of abrasive for this long plane. Feb 16,  · Paul Sellers shows how to flatten and shape the sole of a bench plane. This technique is the first step once you have bought a new bench plane or have acquir. The long sole of the jointer plane creates an extended base that feels the inconsistencies of the board it is moving across. As long as the sole is true, the cutting edge of a jointer plane will do its best to create a flat surface, cutting away any excess material that does not match up with the long, flat plane that the sole is following. Parts of a Jointer Plane. There are quite a few parts of the jointer plane, but .

Wood For Outdoor Crafts Craftsman 12 Radial Arm Saw Zone