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diy-wood-garden-wagon-uk Pinning for later. But I think that will work well because I am debating on enlarging the design again. Like someone in person today! It's lighter than any steel or wood cart of comparable size, yet it's no wimpy poly cart. I don't even run tire chains on mine for snowblower after I put ATV diy wood garden wagon uk on it. I have another that there is too much weight on the back of the trailer and it picks up the back of my atv when the trailer is full of wood.

In learning how to make an axle for a cart, the following steps will show you the materials you need and how to put the wagon axle together. First, each axle consisted of some pillow blocks, washers, shaft collars, end caps, and wheels.

A pillow block is a support pedestal used to mount a spinning axle to a flat surface. It contains a bearing that lets the axle spin independently of the mount. The pillow block housing comes with attachment holes to let you bolt it onto a surface in my case, the underside of the wagon. First, the two locking pillow blocks are secured to the wagon. Then the axle is inserted into the pillow blocks and locked into place with the block screws.

This is essentially a fat ring that you slide onto the axle rod and becomes immovable once you tighten a screw on it. Shaft collars come in a variety of flavors. I chose to go with a 2 piece clamping collar. This type of collar comes with two half circles that screw together to form a ring. I chose this type because compared to other types of shaft collars, it provided a larger amount of force to the axle to prevent it from moving. Finally, after the shaft collar comes the axle rod plastic cap.

This is just a cap that you hammer onto the edge of the axle. However, it really has 3 purposes. Second, it provides an additional layer of locking protection to prevent the wheel from sliding off.

Albeit the locking shaft collar will do its job just fine, but it never hurts to have something extra to re-enforce it. I did a lot of shopping around online and found the best prices to come from Zoro. The rest of the parts came from Zoro. Here is a picture of the assembled wheel structure see what a nice finishing touch the end plastic caps give :.

The lawn mower trailer wheels were going to be mounted on 1 ft blocks of 4 x 4s. Those blocks would be attached to a rectangular frame made of 4 x 4s. I planned on using pressure-treated wood for these foundational 4 x 4s. They were going to be underneath the DIY wagon and exposed more to insects. Any structural damage to the foundation would be catastrophic so pressure-treated wood seemed a necessity.

Also, I did plan on using deck stain on the lawn mower trailer to protect it from water and weathering. Finally, the rear of the garden cart would have a swinging gate to allow easy access into the wagon. In building your own lawn mower cart, the rectangular frame underneath the DIY wagon needs to be strong, as it will comprise a majority of the foundation.

So I used half lap joints to secure the corners of the frame see my mailbox post where I used a center lap joint. To connect the joints securely on the DIY wagon, I used wood glue and lag bolts.

I also wanted the lag bolt heads flush with the surface of frame, so I used a Forstner bit to carve out smooth holes to countersink the bolts. Forstner bits are awesome. I just added them to my tool collection and have been using them in a lot of recent projects. To complete the foundation, I attached the 1 ft blocks that the wheel axles would be fastened to. Next up was the floor of the lawn mower trailer. I used 2 pieces of 2 x 8s for the center, and 2 pieces of 2 x 10s for the ends.

It was time to attach the wheel axles to the frame of the DIY wagon. I bolted the pillow blocks tightly and flipped the frame over. I could stop right now and have a gigantic skateboard, but the fun was only beginning. It was time to build the wagon fence and gate. I just cut a number of 2 x 4s. Some were attached to the 4 x 4 foundation frame to serve as posts, and the rest were used as cross pieces screwed into the posts.

For the swinging gate on the homemade wagon, I used some 1 x 3 wood leftover from a previous project. Prior to starting work on the utility cart, I had done some research on how to actually connect it to the mower. I also found an adjustable tow bar that would bolt onto a sturdy metal vehicle bumper like some Jeeps. This would be perfect for my wagon.

I could bolt the connection to my DIY wagon, and attach the other end to the hitch ball on the mower. In theory it sounded good, so I hoped it worked in practice.

Now it was time to test the riding lawn mower and the DIY wagon together. I started up the riding mower and slowly let the brake go.

I was worried the engine would struggle, but it did not. I did a few laps around the yard and my lawn mower was pulling the DIY trailer perfectly. Eileen was on the phone, and I was anxious to try out the DIY wagon with someone.

Then I looked at the house and who did I see looking out at me but my dog Zeus. I later applied some deck stain to the non-pressure treated wood, and the utility cart was completed. It does take a few minutes to hook up the wagon to the mower though. This was was taken when I needed to move a lot of equipment into my storage shed from the garage. Here is the DIY wagon hauling 10 bags of refuse to the curb. I used to use my wheelbarrow, but that would only hold 2 bags at a time.

It pales in comparison to the wagon. This DIY cart holds so much more, as you can see below :. The garden cart was one of my most fun projects to date, and best of all, it was completed in just a weekend.

The wagon has held up great. The tires on the wagon lasted several seasons. However, they started to lose air after last winter and cracked.

Instead of simply replacing them though, I felt like it was a good opportunity to upgrade the wagon. Since I found myself pushing the wagon around the yard more than I thought I would, I decided to swap out the front wheels with ones that swiveled in the front.

I was thrilled with the upgrade, as it made pushing and turning the wagon by hand very easy. If you are going to push your garden cart around by hand, I definitely recommend starting out with front wheels that swivel. How does it go towing around corners when both axels are fixed, that is the lead axel does not swivel allowing the cart to follow the tractor? I was a little worried about this too at first, but when pulling with the mower, it makes no difference.

Good luck! We made a similar lawn mower cart out of a bunch of extra parts laying around when we bought our place.

It has been so insanely handy! Thanks for sharing on the Clever Chicks blog hop. So useful and very resourceful, my husband has done something similar using an old frame, a cart is very handy if you have a lot of land.

Yes, definitely! It has saved a lot of trips back and forth. What a super easy tutorial! This would be useful for so many things. It could totally work for decorating and pulling kiddos in the upcoming holiday parades and still come home for more useful purposes afterward.

Love it! I am so totally impressed!! What a gift to be able to turn an idea into something so wonderful! You did a great job. Nancy wildoakdesigns. This is so perfect for around the around. Thank you so much for sharing. I have been looking for something similar for a while now.

What a great mower accessory! Thank you for sharing these great projects with us each week at Celebrate Your Story. Love your creativity and craftmanship. Featured you on facebook and will also on google plus, pinned too.

Very, very cool! Thank you for the plans! Also why I want to keep it to a reasonable size, this is rough terrain with some big hills. I hauled many cords with the But mainly because the thing was so evenly balanced that the slightest uphill angle and the cart would try to dump and pull up on the hitch which is also how it destroyed itself.

Traction is the main limiting factor, the tractor can haul the weight just fine. Here is a rough sketch of my design approximately to scale :. TreePointer Minister of Fire. Sep 22, 3, PA. Probably not the reply you want to read, but I'm thinking that putting too much weight on the tongue is not a good idea. A more balanced cart design with wheel weights on your tractor may get you what you want. At some point, the weight ON the drive axle is moot when the total weight being towed is close to that of the entire tractor--a very easy thing to do with freshly cut firewood.

It's been put through extensive use and abuse without a crack or even a chip. It's lighter than any steel or wood cart of comparable size, yet it's no wimpy poly cart. They make a 15 cu. Apart from those nice 4-wheeled ATV carts, it's my favorite. Put some decent tires on the tractor and it will go through just about anything.

I don't even run tire chains on mine for snowblower after I put ATV tires on it. Sep 11, Mount Cheaha Alabama. You can cut the toungue down and build sides like you've noted above. May be post a wanted ad on C-list for an old frame, someone may have something like that laying around with dryrotted tires.

Jack Straw Minister of Fire. Dec 22, 2, Schoharie County, N Y. I have 1 trailer like that and you can't pick up the tongue by hand when it is loaded. I have another that there is too much weight on the back of the trailer and it picks up the back of my atv when the trailer is full of wood. I would design it so when its loaded its slightly "tongue heavy". Sep 24, 4, NNJ. I would suggest scouring CL for an old trailer frame then customizing it.

Jags Moderate Moderator Staff member. Aug 2, 18, Northern IL. As said - you will want a better balance for the axle. At some point in time you WILL have the trailer loaded and you will want to pick up the tongue. Ain't gonna happen. That said - I would like to show a pic of the one I built.

The reason for that is the work height. Note that the deck height is higher than most. It works excellent as it limits the amount of bending into the trailer. ALSO - with the removable tail gate it will dump backwards if you choose.

Very handy for getting all the wood litter out of the bottom of the trailer or dirt or stone, etc. My frame is built solely of wood oak 4x4 and 2x4 - plywood deck and sides. The axle and tongue are the only metal parts. If you are buying steel for a build, I would recommend square tubing like 1. Note on the side I marked between the back two posts - 21". That is the max length of split I want stove will take 22" if you beat it in place.

MasterMech Guest. I think OhioBurner has that Cub ballasted just about to the max already. My question is how much weight will she take before the front end gets light? A photo of the rear of the tractor would be interesting too, concerns have been voiced about how much tongue weight the hitch plate can take. IIRC his machine is very stout. OhioBurner, I can't help but think you could use just a wee bit more tractor! Tires, weights, hitch, I pretty much already have those all covered.

But it depends which I am to use, I have 3 old cubs right now. I'm also thinking about turning one into a dedicated logger, so wouldnt need the raise-able hitch and could make a permanent mount. I could also add a front weight bracket for a bit more ballast up front.

As for tires the one I have been using for wood has some oversized aggressive atv's on it, filled with about 6 gallons of rv antifreeze each and weights I forget how much. For a dedicated logging cub I might get some 26x12x12 Carlisle Tru Power, but havent decided for sure. Yeah I really wanted to get a boat trailer. I have one that would be perfect, with the right size wheel hubs.

But I need it for a boat, and its in brand new shape, worth a lot more than to cut up for parts. I had scoured craigslist for months, no body around here seems to want to get rid of the cheap. And most of them had shot tires, probably hubs that were rusted to death and not the bolt pattern I wanted.

I havent checked in a while so maybe I will again. I dont know about the weight being balanced though. Do you all pull up hills? I am sure driving around the flats balanced would be fine, but even a slight incline would lift the hitch UP on my As far as moving the cart around by hand while loaded? I dont know if I have ever done that. But wouldnt a tongue jack suffice? Nate that looks too balanced for my tastes, too skinny of tires, and too small.

Even 15cu ft is smaller than I want, and the price is probably more than for me to build one I am guessing. MasterMech yeah I would like a wee bit more tractor! Just dont have a wee bit more money!

I'd also need a bit bigger trailer than my 6x10 to get it to the woods. Maybe someday. But I'm already into the cubs with 3 of them, know how to maintain em, have backup parts, and they have surprised me what they can pull off so far. Here are some pics FWIW:. Tractor Supply has everything u need to build a custom trailer. I've thought about it myself. To off balance mine on a hill, you would need to be climbing an incline that the old cub ain't gonna do with a loaded trailer.

I don't know if turning radius is of any concern, but that might also be a consideration. Flatbedford Minister of Fire. Mar 17, 5, Las Vegas, NV. I know what you mean about the balance of most carts. My Cub Cadet cart is balanced rear heavy so that it will dump, as most are, and it is easy to unload the rear wheels with it. I am keeping an eye open for that cheapo used boat trailer to modify too. For your dedicated logger you should build a hitch like this one that a PO built for my The better hitch is a 3 point with a ball on it.

Just back up to the trailer and raise the ball. Its a very nice feature. Flatbed, yeah I had something similar in mind. Jags, I dont know man, I bet I could off balance that but its just a guess. It looks pretty flat there have you had it on hills? Its not just the incline either, its going up that incline and then hitting a bump. Thats what got my dumpcart, which went so rear-heavy that it twisted the wimpy frame and pulled the latch right through, dumping an entire load of rounds and shaterring the back of it when it hit the ground with the weight of the wood on it.

I did want to make my axle somewhat easily movable, so I can fine tune it.

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