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cnc-router-clamps-zero How does it work? Zero the DRO cnc router clamps zero go from there. The picture above shows a vise stop I made a long time ago. Personally, I always start with the big Cnc Router Hold Down Clamps picture and basic concepts. Full on CNC programs are capable of doing some very complex things. Check it out! Okay, that article zro about Building, but it also applies to helping you choose what kind of machine to Buy.

Put another shelf pin on a third side of your workpiece, leaving room for the two wedges between that pin and the workpiece. Tap the two wedges towards each other and they firmly lock the workpiece in place. The fourth side can be wedged, also, but I haven't found that to be necessary. The pins need to be tapped in with a plastic, wooden or steel hammer using gentle taps and bottoming out in the hole. I use a pair of pliers to pull the pins out of the holes.

My workpieces do not shift or move when locked in this way. Driven wedges is an ancient locking method and is still used today in many applications. Wedges were used to lock the dies in the giant forging presses in the shop i once worked in. Need Help? Customer Service Live for Free Support.

Related Products. Use the corner of the fixed jaw of your milling vise circled in red as your part zero…. BTW, if you use a Fixture Plate , it is trivial to drop your vise onto the plate in exactly the same spot every time. Set that fixed jaw part zero up as a work offset and you can bring it back any time super fast.

This photo shows how to locate the vise on a Fixture Plate with just 3 dowel pins every time:. Locate your vise and establish part zero super fast every time with a Fixture Plate…. This is a wonderful time saver because the vise sits on your mill table most of the time.

As long as you design your parts with the idea that the vise jaw corner represents part zero, you can slap a part into the jaws and start machining without measuring part zero, at least without measuring X and Y.

You only need to measure and zero if the vise moves or you change the home position. You may have to re-measure if your machines lacks repeatable home switches too. The picture above shows a vise stop I made a long time ago. You can set the stop up to orient a part repeatably to some part zero you measure to.

You could put stop features on a fixture plate as another alternative using stops. Lastly, you can even get stops that fit in T-slots like these from Tormach:. Centering scopes have been around a long time and with enough care and magnification they can be quite accurate:. I will warn you that these centering scopes can be hard to see.

Sometimes the optics are not so hot and the image can be quite dim. Ample illumination, perhaps from an additional lamp helps. But a more modern approach is to use a digital camera with magnification. Beatty Robotics Centering Scope…. Note that the camera is offset from the spindle centerline. That offset is fixed, and can be factored in when zeroing. There are also cameras that go right in a tool holder and will sight right down the spindle axis.

Really cool stuff, and they even use G-Wizard. This is not an entirely independent method because you need to use one of the other methods to properly locate the part feature. But, it is extremely useful for second ops and cases where you have to put something other than a rough piece of material onto the machine, perhaps for a repair or reworking job.

The idea is to zero on some feature of the part. For example, we used a spot drill dimple with the digital camera above. In fact, locating on holes can be done very accurately so this is quite a common type of feature to use.

Finding part zero with an endmill is another very common approach. Common spacers include a piece of paper, a feeler gage, or a gage block.

Except in the case of the paper, you will want the spindle to be stationary for this method. I did some experiments one time to try to determine how accurate this sort of method is. Touch off by feel : For my 1st Method, with the spindle stopped, clunk down the cutter onto the top of the workpiece.

Zero the DRO and go from there. This produced a result with an error of 0. Not very good! The error was relatively repeatable, so one could add the fudge factor. In the end of the day, the cut was 0. Touch off by sound : For my 2nd try, I gently lowered the spindle under power and listened for when the cutter started to cut.

This method proved slightly more accurate, and resulted in 0. Still not very good. Touch off with paper : The traditional old school method involves holding a piece of cigarette paper rumored to Cnc Router Cam Clamps 500 be exactly 0. Add another 0. Not having any cigarette papers, I used standard laser printer paper. In my case, I got a grab at 0. They look like this:. A Z-axis Presetter from eBay seller watt….

How does it work? There is a little knurled knob visible on the bottom left. You rotate the dial to zero in that position. So, not expecting much, I plunked the sucker down atop my aluminum cube in my Kurt vise on the mill, cranked the head until the cutter almost touched. The desired result was 2. I brought the height gage down to take a reading which was, drumroll please, 2. Holy uncanny accuracy, Batman! I will say, a gage block can be extremely accurate.

This method is very visual, but not terribly accurate. Here is one that Tormach offers:. So long as you find the edge within say half of that accurate to 0.

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