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brick-moulding-router-bit-transfer It is in the domain of media and communications technology that a counter-intuitive aspect of our relationships with our tools first began to gain popular recognition. Recently, it has become common practice to enclose the brick moulding router bit transfer structure entirely in manufactured panels such as structural insulated panels SIPs. A shoe moulding at the floor, then a 1x base followed by a cap moulding that went on top. Norm, Great article, this is the brick moulding router bit transfer of article I live for. He outlawed log building to prevent future conflagrations and required wealthy burghers to use brickwork and the less affluent to use timber framing in the Danish manner.

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Accommodation of Standard Technical Measures It is Company policy to accommodate, and not interfere with, standard technical measures it determines are reasonable under the circumstances, i. Click here - to use the wp menu builder Click here - to use the wp menu builder. Where Are They Now? Want More? Sign Up for Our Newsletter! Michelle, The width of the skirt depends upon the height of your risers and the width of the tread. If you lay a straight edge over a couple nosings and mark the wall on the plane of the nosings you can measure back into the intersection of a tread and riser.

It has to align with the registration marks you put on the wall. I actually measure my rise and run. Then i layout the entire. Just like if you were cutting a rough string.

What this does for me is removes the bulk. Gets me close and sometimes real close then all i have to do is use a standard scriber. And cut the final with a hand saw Back cutting. But hey, whatever works for you. Norm, thanks for the response. Precutting as i mentioned is really only an advantage on short runs.

No tacking at all, it sits there. On long runs i do your method above. Precutting a long board you lose the straight of the board. After scribing I measure parallel to nosing and snap it to straight line. I try to get as close to quartered sawn or rift. And always acclimate. I like the idea of pre priming. Do you think its a good idea to put adhesive at the triangles? Norm, i got to tell you when i said above about measuring.

I have done this in the past on not so high end jobs attic stairs. Walls both sides with drywall. Rough strings in place risers put on all first. Then Finish skirt is notched or scribed to risers only both sides you can shim riser to skirt from behind if needed.

Treads butted to finish string both sides using a stair jig to get length and shape of tread. Tony, A couple thoughts. Whenever I run molding in a room I start away from the entrance so the joints are not as visible. What is the purpose of scribing?

Stair sizes are not always the same. Dan, From the tone of your questions my supposition is that you are not familiar with scribing.

When you scribe you can use a pencil, marker, steel awl, sharpened nail, etc. What you use to mark the line is not as critical as the method. Hope this is a help. I tried this on some rough stairs and it did not turn out good at all. It was the suggestion to start with the tallest or biggest stair that messed me up.

Took all day to fix…. David, If you were scribing a vertical piece of 1x to a stone wall you would set your scriber distance from the point of stone that protrudes furtherest from the stone itself.

Scribing a skirt board is scribing, like any other scribing. You must set the depth of your scriber for the furtherst distance that has to be removed so that the entire board will fit. Think of scribing a countertop to a crooked wall.

It will give the confidence that this really will work. I hope this has been a help. Saw your article online and got excited because it looked easy. First, the marks on the wall are put on the wall before any scribing is started. After you scribe for all the treads you cut off the bottom scribe mark, slide the skirt down to the floor and realign and fasten on the wall marks put on before you started the whole process. If you followed that sequence it should fit.

Norm, I love the detail you have provided here. I am just now starting to do some research on the best method to build a skirt for my refinished stair case.

We converted from carpet to oak treads and risers. My question that I have, is whether this method is the same or slightly altered if the stair case has a curve to it?

Our Stair case is a L shape that curves on the last five steps. I planned to use a Flex flat board for the curved sections. Aaron, The picture helps a lot. Honestly I am not sure exactly how that curve will affect the skirt board but I know that it will. That being said I would scribe the lower flight skirt in two sections, the upper straight section and the lower curved section.

That will show you how the scribing process will go. If you can get a good fit the first time I would tack my finished skirt board on the wall and follow the same procedure. Once you get the plywood template fitting acceptably you can either use it as a pattern to trace on the finished skirt board, or, learn from that experience and scribe your final piece. Norm, Thanks for the reply and tips. I ended up using the method you described above and scribed onto poster board.

Once I scribed onto poster board I then cut with scissors and fine trimmed against the stairs. Once that was complete I transferred the template to my mdf board by tapping and spray painting the outline of the template onto the board.

I then cut and trimmed with a jig saw and oscillating tool. I most likely made this way more difficult then it needed to be, but I used the tools that I had and did my best.

I have attached an image of the curved portion with skirting. Aaron, Thanks for posting picture. It looks outstanding. What would look good in my opinion would be a piece of base cap moulding like on the top of your baseboard that can be seen behind the stairs on left. It could run the whole length of the skirt and miter down to the floor to cover the intersection of the two skirts and the newel posts.

Norm, Up to this point, I was planning to stack my existing baseboard molding right on top. I had not considered running just a baseboard cap though. I will need to give that some more thought. At the top of the stairs I have cut the skirting to allow the baseboards to continue down the stair skirt. Once molding reached the newel post I planned to install rounded corner pieces that would tie the molding directly into the newel posts. Please let me know your thoughts on that plan, I would love to hear your pros and cons on it.

The one concern I have had with simply stacking the baseboards on top of the skirting was the overall height of the combined moldings, would it be to much? I could insert a piece at the top of the stairs that would assist my transition from base molding to skirt and base top molding. How hard would it be to find a base top molding that matches my current base molding?

Aaron, FWIW I think it will look much better to install a base cap on top of the skirt board and not the whole piece of baseboard. The last picture in the article shows it like that. A whole piece of baseboard is going to look much too big IMHO. The base cap should transition from the existing baseboard at the top of the stairs to the base cap on top of the skirtboard. You will have to add a piece to the top of the skirt board to do that. Two options to getting the base cap.

At the bottom of the skirt board the base cap can miter down to the floor and around the newel posts. Norm, I am just now finishing up this project. DIY projects tend to take a little at my place. I wanted to post one last photo of the finished project. Really appreciate your input throughout the project. I am glad you opened my mind to using a base cap. I ended up using my table saw to cut my own of the current molding I already had. This project took longer than I expected, but I am happy how it turned out.

Thanks again, you are a rock star, appreciate you taking the time to provide input to my project. Brilliant article. Geometry at its best. We were very unhappy after Toll Brothers installed hardwood on the stairs without any baseboard next to it. The stairs look blah.. Now we can find a carpenter who is up to this task and make our stairway look the way we imagined. Ana, Glad the article has been an encouragement for you. I would encourage you to find a carpenter who has experience in stairbuilding.

A skilled carpenter will be able to do a good job but like most things in life experience counts. On a side note. I worked for a builder and they were our biggest competition. From my reccollection the current Toll Bros, Bruce and Robert are an attorney and an accountant respectively. They learned the business from their father who was a tradesman.

I hope you have a good experience. Thank you for your reply. The current Toll Brothers background certainly seems to fit to what is happening here. The homes are not being built to the quality we expected. We are very excited to find your blog and plan on trying your instructions with a Flex board ourselves.

But for the actual job we are going to look for a skilled carpenter with experience as you suggested. For now, we are simply relieved that the stairs can be finished the way we had planned. If you offer small training courses online, I bet many would sign up! Ana, If you have the desire and reasonable skill I believe you can do this. You can try it with cardboard strips from a refrigerator box first.

It would be a great sense of pride if you did it yourself. Best wishes. Aaron, That job looks outstanding! The base cap adds the finishing touch. Congratulations on a job well done. I posted this question on an article by Norm Hagstrom, where he explains your method as well and thought I would ask you directly:.

Great article. Thanks for sharing. Some of the brads would run out and off the skirt, but the others would come in behind and finish up the markings. On stained material this may not be advisable since the scribe marks would extend beyond the cut lines, but for painted material it should be ok.

And on stain material, what about using lead from mechanical pencils rather than brads? I think the mechanical pencil lead may work and be a little more forgiving if you get off a little. However it is often difficult to see a pencil line on stained material particularly if it has a gloss of any type on it.

I think whatever works for you is what you should do. Doing it wrong was not an acceptable. What type of wood should I be using? I will be painting mine…would pine or poplar be OK? Garrett, I think either poplar or pine is a good choice. No right or wrong here in my opinion Norm Yeager. A carpenter friend send me this link with a note how well this worked when he cut a skirt board this weekend.

Before reading the article I skimmed through the illustrations and messaged him back this was exactly how I do them. Then I read the article and realized the reason, I learned it from the same teacher you did and from one of the best Senior carpenters at Williamson.

It is great that you put this information out for this knowledge to be passed on. Thanks Emidio, 7W1. Emidio, When I saw your name I remembered you well. I hope you have done well over the years. We were indeed fortunate to learn from Don Zepp. I still think of him quite often and think of how my life has been impacted through him and Williamson. After all these years I still love what I do. Thanks for saying hello and your kind comments. Norm Yeager. What would be the best way to determine the width or height of the skirt board?

If not, what are your suggestions? From that line draw anther line at a right angle that extends to the intersection of the riser and the tread. I think I did something wrong, and perhaps you can help? Did you mark registration lines on the wall when you put your uncut skirt on at first? That would be my 1st thought. The top and bottom stairs are a slightly different height than the rest.

The next 2 sets came out pretty decent. Thanks for sharing your experience. I completely grasp the idea that you are scribing to the tread below on the initial scribe pass. Seems like I would have to reposition the scribe point for each level. Please tell me I am wrong and explain how this is compensated for. Kevin, You do not have to reposition the scribe point for each level. Think about scribing a board to a stone wall where you want the outside of the board to be plumb and the inside of the board to follow all the irregularities of the stone wall.

Once your board is tacked in place on the plumb line and resting against the stone with the fartherest projection, you set the width of the scriber to the depth of the deepest indentation of the stone wall.

Once the scriber is set you never change the setting. You lay your board on the tread nosings and tack it in place. I used to teach carpentry and whereas material was expensive to practice on I had my students practice cutting rafters, laying out stair stringers and scribing skirt boards all on cheap luan plywood or even cardboard. The principles are the same. Give it a try. Thank you Norm.

I guess I missed the part where you said to set your scribe for the highest riser. My apologies. In my defense, I am an engineer, by trade, and an amateur wood worker by requirement honey-do. Nice article. This makes for a very tight fitting skirt board with no shrinkage. Especially if there is variance in the tread heights? How could it possibly match the stair when you go to slide it into place?

Paul, I realize that the process seems somewhat counterintuitive. Every time the results have been the same. The easiest mistake to make is not setting the scriber for the rise and run to the highest riser and the widest tread.

Let me know how you make out. I dont understand how this is accurate if your rise and run varies. If a riser is a quarter inch high and you set your scribe to it wouldnt the rest be off. How come you dont have to adjust your scribe for every step?

Chris, Scribing a skirt board uses same principles as scribing anything. You set your scriber to the maximum depth that the stile will have to go into the stone. The scriber stays the same all the way along the stone wall. You set the scriber at the highest riser and the widest tread. Just like in the stone wall illustration. It works. The man Don Zepp who taught me did it thousands of times.

I hope you have the opportunity to try it. Thank you so much! I get it now. I did exactly what you said with great results. You never quit learning in this business. I may clear up some of the confusion. Even though this is a two-step scribe process, it still follows basic scribing principles. Any variation in tread height and depth will be transferred directly to the skirt board automatically.

Yeah…nothing like a good illustration! But I think Todd should have created an animated illustration. My concern is the tread nosing is not a simple rounded edge, but also has an integrated molding underneath. Any suggestions? Daniel, If you have a cutoff of of the retro tread with moulding trace it on the skirtboard just like the article shows you do with the piece of tread nosing. It will be a little more challenging than cutting a standard tread profile but not anymore difficult than cutting crown or bed moulding.

You may have to use a coping saw for tight radiuses. Hi Norm, An amazing article and the fact that people like me are still commenting and asking questions 9 years later is a testament to a timeless piece.

Thanks again. My question. It is my first time doing skirting. I have removed carpet and padding and will be installing new risers along with stair treads with a nosing. Do I just end my skirt at the top of my last riser and not go to the landing with the skirt? Several options. That could be a jig saw or handsaw. From that point you can cut the radius with a coping saw, fret saw, or, nibble away at it with a jigsaw.

I read this article when it was first published, and thought it was just a wonderful idea, and a—no pun intended—custom fit for a project at my home in the stairwell from a hallway down to the garage.

Took me about five years to work up the nerve to give it a go, including a couple of false starts and, of course, talking my brother into helping me wield the foot piece of poplar. As a side note, I used a Forstner bit of a diameter just under the radius of my nosings to remove the bulk of the material, then cleaned them up with a coping saw and rasp. Thanks again! Thanks for the article! I am seeing something similar to someone that posted a few years ago….

Posting pictures…moved into an older house and our house inspector didnt say anything about this…but I wonder if it is a structural problem or just part of owning an older home? Are there any wall cracks or evidence that something has moved in the past and has been patched? My guess would be that the stringers were not beefy enough to begin with and have sagged over the years.

You could determine that by putting a straight edge over the top edge of the tread nosings from top of stairs to bottom, or pull a string line. I love your directions and illustrations are awesome. I am going to try to tackle this project very soon as I hate how my stairs look now. Secondly, can I use this same process on the underside of steps? My stair treads protrude past the railing and when we replaced the carpeting, it was easy to see the finish dry wall was not done all the way to the treads and it looks terrible.

If you could post a picture regarding your second question I can respond better. The short answer is probably not, but there are simple and time tested methods to achieve a finished look.

Thanks for your reply. We just replaced the carpet so I would not want to remove it and redo it. It was expensive enough the first time around.

I am working to update Brick Moulding Router Bit Test and repaint much of the house to freshen it up to go with the new carpet and furnishings we recently installed. I did attach a photo of my steps that I had hoped to add a trim board to below them my second question. However, again I would not want to remove the carpeting as it was installed a short time ago.

Thank you for your response. I am a bit sad about it to be honest but would hate to spend the money to try to do the trim board on top of the steps for it not to look good. Hi Norm, Thank you for your reply. I appreciate your honesty and I guess I will have to forgo this project as the expensive part — removing and replacing the new carpeting, and then installing the treads as described is not an option. Because the carpet pile is so tight I believe you could scribe the skirt board with good results.

Once you cut out the skirt the carpet will actually make the fit more forgiving. Because the carpet is so tight, if you ever decide to remove it and install overlay treads and risers you could butt them into the skirt board and they would probably fit just fine.

A skirt board will add a lot to your stairs. Thanks Norm, I had high hopes that the tighter carpet would still allow this to work. Thank you for the tip about the metal strip… I will do that. Now, I just have to figure out how to do the same thing on the underside of the steps so that the two sides compliment each other. I am going to give it a go as soon as I figure out how wide of a board I need.

The moulding on top will give it a nice finished look as well. I am going to look into that too. Lay a straight edge board, yardstick, etc. From the bottom edge of the straight edge measure at a right angle to the intersection of where the tread meets the riser. Hi Norm, I just wanted to update you and thank you again for your help. I did the skirt boards. I did the top as well as the underside. Here is on other picture as well. I did paint the railing and spindles which also adds to the beauty of my foyer.

Sharon, Your project looks great!. Congratulations on achieving a good result with your carpeted stairs. HI Mr. Norm, As a newer wood worker and DIY type guy, when I renovated my house I removed the old carpet stair case and installed a solid hickory stair case to match the hickory floors I put in the house. I have long hated the joint between the stair treads and wall and since i did not install my skirt board at install I have wondered how to go about installing one after the fact. Dominick, I may be misunderstanding your question.

Same thing with the riser. I just scribed my first set of skirt boards using this method and the end result came out really nice. I found I had to use the depth of the tread in order to get the scribed lines for the riser and tread to intersect properly at the base of the triangular cut-out.

Joseph, You figured it out. It is the depth of the tread material and not the unit run. I hope this helps. Thanks for the info. But going to give this method a go, as from a google search, this will look much better Brick Moulding Router Bit Uk and is more conventional. Good stuff. Simply put, Norm, you rock! Thanks so much! I hope your project works well for you. Please post a picture when you complete it. I have the first of 4 skirt boards nearly done. The first set of steps terminates in a landing which immediately make a 90 degree left turn.

I need to miter the very top for the outside turn. Any help is appreciated. My guess is your probably finished. If not, a good way to miter the long unwieldy skirt board would be with a sliding compound miter saw with an extension table long enough to support it.

You can set the saw to a beveled 45 degree angle to turn the 90 degree corner. Great job. A circular saw with a shooting board would do the trick as well. Thank you for continuing to share your knowledge Norm. Nathan, Thank you for the shooting board suggestion. If so I get it. Thanks for the great tips on stair skirts. Turns out that height and depth of some steps varied, requiring several trips back to the saw.

Tip: always cut a smaller piece if it appears customs cutting coming. Anything tip: I used blue masking tape to mark the lines of the angles,, easy to see and easy off without messing up my paint.

Thank you for your service. Somewhere along the line I should have communicated better in the article. Scribing is scribing. This method will resolve those differences without several trips back to the saw without custom cutting. The entire skirt is custom cut the first time to whatever condition you have. The blue tape is a good idea. I agree that the supplement was even better. Substitution "by-design" would be tools that are designed specifically to accomplish multiple tasks using only that one tool.

Substitution as makeshift is when human ingenuity comes into play and a tool is used for its unintended purpose such as a mechanic using a long screw driver to separate a cars control arm from a ball joint instead of using a tuning fork. In many cases, the designed secondary functions of tools are not widely known. The latter is illustrated by the saying "All tools can be used as hammers. Tools are also often used to substitute for many mechanical apparatuses, especially in older mechanical devices.

In many cases a cheap tool could be used to occupy the place of a missing mechanical part. A window roller in a car could easily be replaced with a pair of vise-grips or regular pliers. A transmission shifter or ignition switch would be able to be replaced with a screw-driver. Again, these would be considered tools that are being used for their unintended purposes, substitution as makeshift.

Tools such as a rotary tool would be considered the substitution "by-design", or "multi-purpose". This class of tools allows the use of one tool that has at least two different capabilities.

Tools such as this are often power tools that come with many different attachments like a rotary tool does, so you could say that a power drill is a "multi-purpose" tool because you can do more than just one thing with a power drill. A multi-tool is a hand tool that incorporates several tools into a single, portable device; the Swiss army knife represents one of the earliest examples. Other tools have a primary purpose but also incorporate other functionality — for example, lineman's pliers incorporate a gripper and cutter, and are often used as a hammer; and some hand saws incorporate a square in the right-angle between the blade's dull edge and the saw's handle.

This would also be the category of "multi-purpose" tools, since they are also multiple tools in one multi-use and multi-purpose can be used interchangeably — compare hand axe. These types of tools were specifically made [ by whom? To these workers these types of tools were revolutionary because they were one tool or one device that could do several different things.

With this new revolution of tools the traveling craftsman would not have to carry so many tools with them to job sites, in that their space would be limited to the vehicle or to the beast of burden they were driving. Multi-use tools solve the problem of having to deal with many different tools.

Observation has confirmed that a number of species can use tools including monkeys , apes , elephants , several birds, and sea otters. Philosophers originally thought that only humans had the ability to make tools, until zoologists observed birds [12] and apes [13] [14] [15] making tools.

Now the unique relationship of humans with tools is considered to be that we are the only species that uses tools to make other tools. Recently, a Visayan warty pig was observed using a stick in digging a hole on the ground at a French zoo.

A telephone is a communication tool that interfaces between two people engaged in conversation at one level. It also interfaces between each user and the communication network at another level. It is in the domain of media and communications technology that a counter-intuitive aspect of our relationships with our tools first began to gain popular recognition. Marshall McLuhan famously said "We shape our tools.

And then our tools shape us. From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia. For other uses, see Tool disambiguation and Equipment. This article is about the object. For the American rock band, see Tool band. Physical item that can be used to achieve a goal. Main article: History of technology. Main article: Simple machine. Main article: Tool use by animals. Sam, Sam-Ang. Oxford Music Online.

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