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5-foot-dowel-rod-replacement Rub the exposed tip using or grit sandpaper. Bubinga Stock photo is a 5 foot dowel rod replacement of color and grain with a smooth surface. Actual color and grain will vary. Geplacement jig installed on the timing case. With a relaxed arm, you have more power to cast, you have better control of the cast, and will be able to cast the line with more accuracy and control.

The next step is to remove the camshaft. This requires removing all six valve covers, rocker assemblies and push rods. Dodge has conveniently left two holes in the cowl of the truck just for this purpose. The holes are filled with two rubber plugs.

To gain access to these plugs, the windshield wipers and plastic cowl must be removed. Each rod needs to be tapered down to a sharp point. You then drive the dowel rod into the tappets and pick them up off the camshaft.

A rubber band will hold the dowel rods up and keep them from falling back down. The camshaft is likely to hit the tappets while being removed and reinstalled. If one of the tappets falls off the dowel rod, you will need to remove the oil pan to get it out! Now you can remove the camshaft. It will take a steady hand to slide it out. Be gentle. When the camshaft is positioned correctly it slides out easily. Now you just need to clean off the old gasket and reassemble.

The four studs that mount to the injection pump as well as the timing pin need to be moved from the old housing to the new housing as shown here.

This photo was taken from the back side of the new case. You can see that the hole for the dowel pin is now necked down so the pin can no longer work its way out.

We used a magnet to retrieve the dowel pin out of the oil pan before reassembly. It looks as if the pin was ground on for quite a while by some of the gear. Notice the blue marks from heat! Now you reassemble in the reverse order. I hope this helps some of you understand the work involved in replacing the timing housing. This was meant as a general overview and not a set of step by step instructions. Some years of the 5. The small end of the tab is designed to lock into the contours of the gearcase to prevent any rotation of the tab.

The retainer tab goes under the bolt head just to the lower right of the KDP hole. Always install a new main seal before replacing the timing cover. The bolt is M8 X 1. The thread is left hand and you may need to whack the wrench with a hammer to break the nut loose.

In many cases, a drift punch and hammer are are the easiest tools to use for breaking the nut loose; place the punch on the driver side of the fan nut face and hit the punch with a hammer. Remove the 6 bolts that hold the fan pulley on and then the 4 that hold the fan mount to the block. Position the tab so that it covers the dowel pin hole and is wedged between the cover bolt boss and the rib cast into the housing.

Install the original bolt through the tab and torque to 18 ft-lbs. While you are there, check the torque on the other housing bolts. If any are loose, apply lockitite to the threads and torque the bolt 18 ft-lbs. Use a thin plastic, like what is on a loose leaf binder, and tape it together to make a tapered sleeve. Just be very careful installing the crank seal over the snout. Oil the snout and sleeve with synthetic oil, and it will slide right on. It also helps to use several studs to guide the plate on and hold it until you get the other bolts started.

If you do it this way, you can skip to step Thoroughly clean the front seal 25mm Oak Dowel Rod Zipper area of the crankshaft. The seal lip and the sealing surface on the crankshaft must be free from all oil residue to prevent seal leaks.

The seal is designed to transfer a film of teflon to the dry, clean crank surface after initial startup. Apply a bead of Loctite , or equivalent to the outside diameter of the seal. Note: Some use blue or Red. Install the oil fill tube and mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 43 NM 32 ft. Slide the small black plastic dust seal included in the seal kit over the end of the crank and up snugly against the crank seal with the flat side out.

Install the vibration damper. DO NOT tighten the bolts to the correct torque value at this time. Tighten the vibration damper bolts to NM 92 ft. The dowel pin itself can be replaced if desired or Locktite can be used to hold it in place, without having to replace the pin or gear housing assembly. Inspection and securing of the timing cover dowel pin:. Either cover the openings to the pan or use a magnet when putting the tab in place to keep it from falling into the oil pan.

Also, setting the timing is easier while the gear cover is off becauseloosening the gear is much easier and you can clean the gear and shaft better. I used a hacksaw to cut the tab to size. I used a new gasket and seal on the cover. I used Permatex spray on both sides of the gasket.

The seal was a real pain like Rebel said. Kept going in crooked. I finally bolted the damper back over the seal tool that came with the seal and pressed it in that way. That method pushes it almost all the way in to where it should be. The cover is bolted on but not tightened down. You put the seal installer into the cover to center the hole in the cover over the crank and then tighten the bolts.

The service manual is very specific about this. Then you slip a plastic sleeve into the seal to keep it from deforming as it slips over the crankshaft end. You tap the seal with the installer to get it started and then pull out the sleeve.

Joe 8 Foot Long Wooden Dowel 30 G. The kit comes with a tool to set the depth. I used my vice and pressed it right in. The manual says use some blue LocTite so I did that. There is also a tool to put the seal on Oak Dowel Rod Lowes Plus the crank. I put the tool in the seal in the cover before installing the cover. I made a couple of alignment pins out of some long old screws so that the cover was straight. It was easy to put on. The seal is a Teflon laydown lip type. They are designed to transfer a film of teflon to the dry, clean crank surface after initial startup.

You can pull out the fan from the top if you are careful. I used 0. It was like a metal sawzall blade type material. You only need to supply the bolt, and drill.

Drill jig installed on the timing case. Drilling the hole. Case cover was removed for the photograph. Bolt installed.

Case cover was removed to show how the bolt keeps the KDP from escaping.. On my ride the Horton fan and shroud must come out together as one unit. If you can get your fan out past the shroud, do it now. It will save you time. Unbolt the radiator shroud. Push the top of the shroud towards the motor and pull the fan out between that and the radiator. Move the shroud from side to side to sneak the protruding ears past the radiator hoses. To help with this, bend the top center of the shroud toward the motor-this makes the shroud a little narrower.

Now remove the serpentine belt. Remove the two bolts that hold the alternator on. The bottom rear nut is 15mm, the front bolt is 13mm. Without disconnecting any of the wires, set the alternator up on the rubber intake hose.

Put a shop towel over the top of the bottom pulley, then clean the area to the right of where the fan mount was located. Remove the 2 bolts from the front cover, put the drill jig on and replace the bolts. Go underneath the truck and hook the regulator to the breather hose. Set the regulator to a maximum of 2 lbs. Using a low-powered drill-such as a cordless-put the smaller of the two bushings in the jig and drill through the casting with the drill provided.

When you go through the aluminum, if the drill does not go freely to the stop, then you MUST remove the cover because your dowel is already part way out. With the cover off you can drive the dowel back into the block and then continue with counter sinking and tapping.

Once you have this hole through you can increase the flow on the regulator several more pounds to help clear the chips. If you do not have a pressure regulator, but have an air supply, you can do the following: Get a long piece of rope clothes line , wrap a paper towel around one end and with a screwdriver force it into the breather pipe. Tie the other end to your steering wheel. Remove your oil filler cap, wrap a shop towel around the end of your air nozzle and hold it against the filler hole.

Blow only enough air into the motor to equal about two pounds pressure. Keep the shop towel loose enough so you will not create a dangerous amount of pressure if you get carried away. If you do not have any air supply, you can do it this way. Fill the drill with light grease and drill the hole the rest of the way through. Clean the hole out, fill the tap with grease and tap the hole. If you have a way to rotate the motor by hand, by turning the balancer, etc.

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