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watco-danish-oil-food-grade My guess is that it is safe Watco It is great to see that lots of woodturners watco danish oil food grade Fooe Oil! Applying the first coat of Danish Oil Keep the surface wet, by applying another coat. Teak oil treatments need to be re-applied on average once every months for the best results. Because it doesn't have FDA approval doesn't mean it is unsafe-maybe just not tested. Is the Watco advisory a result of Gov.

Danish oil is a hard drying oil, meaning it can polymerize into a solid form when it reacts with oxygen in the atmosphere. Danish Oil. A superior penetrating linseed oil finish that is polymerized for fast and easy application on interior woodwork and furniture.

It is also ideal for wood paneling, cabinets, salad bowls, wood utensils, butcher blocks and surfaces that come in contact with food.

Applying the first coat of Danish Oil Keep the surface wet, by applying another coat. Let it sit on the surface for about 20 to 30 minutes and then wipe off the excess with a clean cotton cloth. Set it aside to dry for about 24 to 48 hours. The drying time depends on the humidity and temperature. A blend of pure tung oil and natural oils for protecting hard and soft woods. Brings out the natural grain of the timber and provides a satin to gloss sheen.

PolySto Food Safe Sealant is a high-quality, neutral, elastic one-component silicone based joint sealant containing a special fungicide with large spectrum of activity effective for fungi as Lentinus tigrinus, Streptoverticillum reticulum, Aspergillus niger and Alternaria alternata. According to finishing expert Bob Flexner, all finishes are food - safe once they have cured.

Polyurethane varnish does not present any known hazard. However, no finish is food safe until it has fully cured. The rule of thumb for full curing is 30 days at room temperature to degrees F. Food Grade Silicone Sealant is a non-slump sealant and can be applied to vertical or overhead surfaces without flowing or sagging.

Because ASI Food Grade Silicone Sealant silicone sealant , it has excellent resistance to weathering including ozone, ultra-violet radiation, freeze-thaw conditions and airborne chemicals. My go-to finishes are Tung Oil and Shellac. Both are inexpensive, easy to find, easy to apply and completely food safe. Both of these finishes can be applied to wooden utensils and other items that will be used near or with food. FDA food grade caulk is a food safe sealant that comes in a variety of colors: clear, aluminum, white, black and red.

Polyurethane for butcher block countertops. Polyurethane is a liquid coating that dries into a plastic film and is great for sealing the countertop, but then there's a layer of plastic between you and your pretty new wood. If you are asking whether there are spray paints that can be applied to containers which are safe for contact with food once dry, lacquer paints traditional old fashioned spray paint and the newer acrylic spray paints sold by art suppliers will both create durable services, but seal them just to be safe.

When left uncured, polyurethane can cause asthma and other breathing problems. Those who spend time in rooms that have uncured polyurethane floor treatments may also experience health issues like throat and eye irritation, nausea, vomiting, headaches, coughing, and shortness of breath. A butcher block countertop with oil finish will require ongoing oiling to protect the piece and will develop a deep rich patina over time.

For natural plant oils or mineral oil , spread an even coating of oil over every part of the butcher block. Is Watco Food Safe? Category: automotive road side assistance. Is cabots Danish oil Food Safe? Is Danish oil dangerous? What is Danish oil made out of? Can I use Danish oil on butcher block? What's the best Danish oil? How long does Danish oil take to cure? Applying the first coat of Danish Oil. And yes the buff and wax does wonders.

Watco It is great to see that lots of woodturners use Danish Oil! I will take all the advice and make my own finishing Thank you for your help. John Terefenko. Joined Oct 7, Messages Likes Emiliano Achaval said:. It is great to see that lots of woodturners use Danish Oil! Click to expand Joined Feb 16, Messages 73 Likes Information from Watco about danish oil I have used Watco oil on most of my furniture projects in the past and was considering using it on bowls.

Our Watco Danish Oil is completely non toxic and safe for children's toys, once it is fully cured. However, this product is not approved to be used on items that will come in contact with food. We hope this information has been helpful. If you have any further questions or concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us. Since the products are not FDA approved, they are recommended to be near any type of food. However, I would assume fruit would be okay in the bowl, if you were going to peel or wash it, prior to eating it.

It can be safely used for butcher blocks, cutting boards, salad bowls and other wooden items that require a food safe finish. More information can be found at the following link.

BobCoates said:. I have used Watco oil on most of my furniture projects in the past and was considering using it on bowls. Joined Jul 28, Messages 71 Likes 3. The Trick To Using Watco Danish Oil I've been asked many times how long it takes me to make a bowl to which my stock answer is, "two hours of turning and two weeks of finishing.

I happen to like the finish I get with the Watco Natural Danish Oil because of the richness and patina of an oil finish and also I can readily control the degree of "sheen" using this product.

Generally I prefer a low sheen finish, but on occasion I want a higher sheen on a particular piece.

To this end 1 to 2 coats of the Danish Oil yields a low sheen finish, additional coats add sheen, and for a high sheen several coats plus wax and buffing really brings up the sheen. I have found that the trick with using Watco Danish Oil is to let it cure completely between coats.

This may take several days 3 - 7 between the first coat and subsequent coats. Once the initial coating is fully cured subsequent coats cure much faster, 1 -2 days. The more you coat, the more of a surface build up you get which produces the sheen. After applying a generous coating of the Danish Oil I wait about 30 minutes and then wipe off the excess and gently buff with a paper towel I don't seem to be plagued by small particles of paper as Odie described.

The key takeaway here is to allow enough time between coats for the Danish Oil to cure completely after each coat! Peter Toch. Gretch Flo. Wells Jacobson. It confuses me that Watco DO when cured is safe for kids toys and not for salad bowls. Kids chew on toys and I only eat out of salad bowls. Is the Watco advisory a result of Gov.

Gretch Flo said:. So what about what we've all learned about a product being food safe once cured and all odor gone??? Because it doesn't have FDA approval doesn't mean it is unsafe-maybe just not tested. Has anyone heard of people getting sick from eating out of a wooden bowl that had finish applied?? Interesting comment from cabin flight crew yesterday from Jamaica son's wedding , asking people to not eat peanuts because there was an allergic person on board.

Wells Jacobson said:. Last edited: Jan 9, Government testing may not be a requirement? The Watco product states: "Easy to apply and maintain, it is non-toxic and safe for food contact when fully dried meets government standards of 21CFR The Howard product states: "This product exceeds the requirement set forth in the U. FDA regulations for direct and indirect food contact. There may be a difference between the definitions of "meets", "compliant" and "exceeds" in the above statements The Watco product specifically states it's good for "salad bowls", while the Howard product mentions "wooden bowls and utensils".

I intend to do further testing of both products in the coming months. What I'm interested in is the finish left by both is stable, and dry The Watco product comes in a metal paint can, while the Howard product is in a plastic container like that which a shampoo will come in.

I think, but don't know for sure, that further government regulations may be at play concerning these containers. The Watco may have some chemicals that determines a requirement for a metal container. Any further comment is welcomed Food safe I have always used mineral oil if I know the bowl will be or might be use for food purposes Has anybody used the Danish oil for a bowl intended for the kitchen?

My guess is that it is safe Bill Boehme Administrator Staff member. A built up finish on any wood used for food and washed is going to be a mess down the road when cracks open in the finish. BUT, do the watco like any other wiping varnish so to speak and put a bit on.

Let it sit a few minutes and wipe dry. I do use paper towels. Since I make my own danish oil mix out of gloss poly a bit of BLO and paint thinner I dip my Koa bowls into it and let them drip a Watco Danish Oil Near Me few minutes before drying. For me and Koa two dips is plenty. Wipe on and off should be the same. The idea being to put a bit of hard finish into the pore structure. Mineral oil never dries and the bowl looks bad from the 1st use on.

With a bit of hard finish in th epores the bowl will look pretty good after many washings. And I do recommend mineral oil if the bowl begins looking tired. But we are talking salad bowls. I do buff my Koa bowls with Tripoli and then put some Ren wax and buff that. The bowl looks great in the gallery and if not used for food use looks great on a shelf. I also recommend the washing use soap. The oils in salad dressing stuff can become rather nasty and sticky over time in a wet climate.

So soap and water are a good thing. But I do dry my salad bowl right away after washing. Remember folks. Its all food safe when cured.

Sorry Mr. Maui but I did not write your name down when I hit reply to thread. I am just over the channel from you in Hawi and have been a full time turner since You want to chat finish in our climate? Give me a call. I am in the AAW directory. Update on Watco butcher block finish, and Howard's butcher block conditioner The first photo of the Willow bowl has the Howard's butcher block conditioner over Watco Danish oil natural.

This bowl was in progress when we were discussing this subject before. I was hoping the HBBC would dry completely without an oily surface This is the product that states that it "exceeds the requirement set forth in the U. FDA regulations for direct and indirect food contact".

Everything looks like this is going to work out ok for sales of salad bowls. The second and third photos are of an ash salad bowl that is on my lathe right now. This has a coat of the Watco butcher block oil and finish. This is the product that states it's "FDA compliant". I applied this finish last night, and it's completely dry this morning. My thought is it has a little bit more of a shiny look to it, over the Danish oil natural I think this bowl might be sale-able as is, without the Howards BBC over the top My whole purpose with this is to assure my customers that my salad bowls meet, or exceed USFDA requirements for food contact.

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